Tender Co. Denim

[Nei.Nor]

Here's picture of mine - in full Tender today. Nothing too crazy. I'm one of those 'rare' people on here that probably has too many nice jackets to get any hard wear patterns. It's definitely still one of my favourite items I own though.

IMG_0608.heic

IMG_0609.heic

Edited October 16, 2020 by Nei.Nor

[desolate]

Edited October 16, 2020 by desolate

[desolate]

I'm not much of a photographer but I've tried to get a feeling for the material. It's all absolutely of the highest grade.

 

Whilst I am at it here are a couple of pics of my satchel and cardigan. Love them both.

[JDelage]

I regret missing on the denim thread cardigan and sweater (in the non "wool pattern" version)....

[Toegun]

Showing the slight evo of my 132s with the extra side pocket. This denim is stubborn with its fades but I’m reasonably pleased with the progress, just want the rest of the jeans to catch up with faded bits. 

crossover from other thread 

[maharu]

I think I need a pair of tender jeans soon! Great pair @Toegun!

[JDelage]

Selling a pair of Tender x For Holding Up the trousers suspenders: http://ebay.us/SR6Zo7?cmpnId=5338273189

[Duke Mantee]

1 hour ago, JDelage said:

Selling a pair of Tender x For Holding Up the trousers suspenders: http://ebay.us/SR6Zo7?cmpnId=5338273189

They’re lovely

[rodeo bill]

A big day! I received special 10th Anniversary type 900 jackets over the last few days, and I've now got them up on the Stores. I'm really pleased with how they came out. More pics and some fabric weaving photos to follow, but for now here are some flat pictures:

Very excited about these!

[Broark]

And I'll be sure to post pictures once mine arrives. 

[MJF9]

@rodeo bill the 900 and liner look superb... spot on, great work William.  Interested in size charts as can't see them on the stores - would you prefer to post sizes here or should we mail you direct?  

[Jurassic]

@rodeo bill 900 look great, will they be coming in any other fabrics/dyes?

[JDelage]

I suppose it's sized like the unlined version of 2019?

Edited November 6, 2020 by JDelage

[julian-wolf]

Just put my order in for a size 4—really looking forward to this

For anyone interested / still awaiting a response, following are the measurements provided by William for sizes 4 and 5:

Size 4
Shoulders: 20.5"
Chest (armpit to armpit): 25"
Sleeve length (under arm): 21.5"
Full length: 27.5”

Size 5
Shoulders: 21"
Chest (armpit to armpit): 26"
Sleeve length (under arm): 22"
Full length: 28”

[rodeo bill]

2 hours ago, MJF9 said:

@rodeo bill the 900 and liner look superb... spot on, great work William.  Interested in size charts as can't see them on the stores - would you prefer to post sizes here or should we mail you direct?  

thank you so much all! Here are some measurements:

Size 2
Shoulders: 18.5"
Chest (armpit-to-armpit): 23"
Sleeve length (under arm): 21.5"
Full length: 27"
 
Size 3
Shoulders: 19.5"
Chest (armpit-to-armpit): 24"
Sleeve length (under arm): 21.5"
Full length: 27"
 
Size 4
Shoulders: 20.5"
Chest (armpit-to-armpit): 25"
Sleeve length (under arm): 21.5"
Full length: 27.5”

Size 5
Shoulders: 21"
Chest (armpit to armpit): 26"
Sleeve length (under arm): 22"
Full length: 28”

I've not measured size 1 or 6 yet, please let me know anyone if you'd like these. Very happy to put them here or do them by email.

1 hour ago, JDelage said:

I suppose it's sized like the unlined version of 2019?

sorted by email (and thank you!) but yes indeed this is the same fabric and pattern as before. The Old North version came up a little differently, as it was in a different fabric.

1 hour ago, Jurassic said:

@rodeo bill 900 look great, will they be coming in any other fabrics/dyes?

This run is only in woad, as a nod back to the first run. I hope to make some more Unborn or other dye jackets at some point in future, but I’m intending to only do woad dye with this special liner, and the 10th anniversary buttons.

Here's a bonus couple of photos:

the new jacket next to my own 10 year old original:

and a fit pic, size 3, with the screen-printed and hand-coloured (with a sharpie!) tote bag that comes with the jacket (or available separately):

and a bonus picture of the 10 years special button master being engraved:

 

[JDelage]

Do you have other special 10 yr anniversary items coming? Although I realize that pretty much everything you make is small batch & limited in nature...

[rodeo bill]

22 hours ago, JDelage said:

Do you have other special 10 yr anniversary items coming? Although I realize that pretty much everything you make is small batch & limited in nature...

Thanks for this. Yes, I do! A couple of little things, and one bigger thing, coming up over the coming weeks. More soon...

[: )]

Will the quilted morning coat make a come back? :)

[rodeo bill]

^thanks for this. Not right now, but good to know you're interested- I really like this style, too, and it'd be good to repeat it some time.

Here are some factory photos of the 10th Anniversary jacket blanket lining fabric being finished. It's woven in Wales from Irish-spun donegal yarn, which is quite heavy and coarse as it comes off the loom, but this is where things get interesting. First it gets a wash, then to dry the fabric it goes through this:

this contraption moves the fabric very slowly, under tension, between very hot water pipes, the fabric goes in damp, so the room feels like a steam room. Here's a closeup of the hot pipes:

by the time it comes off the end of the rollers, the fabric is warm and dry, and has shrunk quite significantly, it looks like this:

the red loose threads hanging off the sides are the slip-yarns from the red stripes. You can see that they're a bit felted, from the hot process. Now the fabric get joined onto the end of whatever cloth was last in the raising machine:

this involves using a hand-cranked vertical wheeled sewing machine (similar to the equipment that's used to seal heavy-duty paper bags), to sew the end of the new fabric onto the end of the old fabric:

now the new fabric is attached, it can be fed into the raiser:

this is a big set of rollers covered in wire spikes, that revolve in opposite directions, acting in combination like a huge drum:

Once the machine's up and running, the whole length of fabric goes through:

here it is after one pass through the rollers:

the texture's starting together a bit fuzzier.

At this point, the whole length of fabric has gone through once, and the end of the fabric's coming up to the rollers. Now, the old bit of cloth that was sewn on at the start gets cut off, and the two ends of my fabric are sewn together:

now, like joining two ends of pasta to run it through a pasta machine, the fabric is a continuous loop and can be run back through the rollers. There's a bit of straightening up to do when the join gets onto the drum:

but once it's set, the machine runs continuously until the fabric has had three full raising passes, and is extremely fluffy on one side. At this point you could turn the cloth over and repeat the process on the reverse, but I like the contrast of the raised side versus the un-raised, and it also avoids weakening the yarn any more than necessary (if you passed the fabric through rollers too much, it would start to fall apart). Here's the cloth coming off a third pass:

now it's just a matter of opening the loop, by cutting the machine stitches:

then the finished cloth comes off the folder head of the machine, into a neat pile ready to be boarded and taken away to be sewn:

 

[Broark]

Seeing the production process makes me even more excited to receive mine, should get here tomorrow!

[julian-wolf]

Phone ran out of batteries just after I started taking photos & by the time it charged up the light was gone, but…here's the first half a shoot's worth!

Really happy with this, from top to bottom—I won't even try to go through all the details

Went with a size 4 & second guessed myself some during shipping, but I think it was the right call—a 3 would be better through the body (especially without the liner), but this is just right in the shoulders and sleeves

 

[JDelage]

Received mine tonight too. Super excited!

Edited November 13, 2020 by JDelage

[oomslokop]

magnificent as always @rodeo bill! even if i'll never get to experience wearing that liner in the tropics, just seeing the way yr things are made always makes me happy

[Toegun]

Grabbed one as well. 

[MJF9]

Fits looking good gents

@julian-wolf is your pic with the liner or jacket only?  

@Toegun liner or without?  What size did you go for?  

[julian-wolf]

@MJF9 all pics are with the liner—still haven’t even tried it on without

[Toegun]

@MJF9 with liner, size 6. The dye wash really makes it stiff and inky. Lovely jubbly!!!
 

[Broark]

I also got my Type 900 in, it's a real winner. I also went with a size 4, I think it fits well.
The sleeves are a tad short, but I think once the denim settles down from the woad dyeing creases they will be fine.
This is my first article of Tender clothing outside of a type 208 Spiral belt, I'm sure it won't be my last.

[Broark]

Fit pics with the liner, although I think the majority of the time I'll be wearing it without just because it doesn't get all that cold.

[julian-wolf]

^ Fits like it was made for you