Warehouse

[Broark]

Took them a little longer than usual, but WH has posted their fall/winter catalog. Along with the John Gluckow stuff!
https://ware-house.jp/shopinfo/catalog2022aw/

[Hopethisoneisnttaken]

On 12/1/2022 at 11:33 PM, Broark said:

Took them a little longer than usual, but WH has posted their fall/winter catalog. Along with the John Gluckow stuff!
https://ware-house.jp/shopinfo/catalog2022aw/

Just so you know, ever since you posted this I have been staring at my screen with this page open, hoping to make these go up on pre order already with the power of my mind. 

https://www.ware-house.co.jp/?pid=170343214

 

 

Edited December 3, 2022 by Hopethisoneisnttaken

[Talan]

1 hour ago, Hopethisoneisnttaken said:

Just so you know, ever since you posted this I have been staring at my screen with this page open, hoping to make these go up on pre order already with the power of my mind. 

https://www.ware-house.co.jp/?pid=170343214

 

 

Please post here the very moment the power of your mind comes to a result... 

Edited December 3, 2022 by Talan

[Hopethisoneisnttaken]

@Talan I contacted Celluloid about it, his estimated guess was somewhere around early spring. Makes sense I think. 

[Talan]

2 hours ago, Hopethisoneisnttaken said:

@Talan I contacted Celluloid about it, his estimated guess was somewhere around early spring. Makes sense I think. 

Well, in this case we can ease with reloading WH page constantly.

[Hopethisoneisnttaken]

1 hour ago, Talan said:

Well, in this case we can ease with reloading WH page constantly.

Sadly, yes. 
In any case I will probably shoot an email to warehouse asking about it, even though there’s like a 99% chance it will vanish into the void of unanswered English emails to Japanese brands. 

[Talan]

9 minutes ago, Hopethisoneisnttaken said:

Sadly, yes. 
In any case I will probably shoot an email to warehouse asking about it, even though there’s like a 99% chance it will vanish into the void of unanswered English emails to Japanese brands. 

I was writing warehouse some time ago and received answer. In fact it worked just fine, they only refused to make custom hemming and mark shipment value low.

[unorthodox]

Does anyone happen to know who handles distribution for Warehouse in the states?

[JMS]

Are you looking to purchase? You can buy direct from the Warehouse Japanese website. 

[unorthodox]

56 minutes ago, JMS said:

Are you looking to purchase? You can buy direct from the Warehouse Japanese website. 

No, it's for a new retailer account.

[JMS]

best of luck!

[Hopethisoneisnttaken]

15 hours ago, Talan said:

I was writing warehouse some time ago and received answer. In fact it worked just fine, they only refused to make custom hemming and mark shipment value low.

So I emailed last night and they did reply this morning, which was nice. 
however, the reply was that they don’t know yet haha. 

[Talan]

9 minutes ago, Hopethisoneisnttaken said:

So I emailed last night and they did reply this morning, which was nice. 
however, the reply was that they don’t know yet haha. 

I'm glad it worked out... 

[tigerstrom]

Anyone here who owns Warehouse 1086 hbt fatigue pants? Are they good?

[JMS]

They are very good, great fabric. Very full leg, you might want to size down 1 as well. 

[tigerstrom]

58 minutes ago, JMS said:

They are very good, great fabric. Very full leg, you might want to size down 1 as well. 

Cool, thanks! I’ve ordered a pair in my usual size so I hope they work out. A fuller leg is what I’m after. I’ve heard different opinions on the size, some people think they are on the smaller side so I just have to wait and see. They are unwashed so I will throw them in the washing machine either way. 

[indigoeagle]

I had somehow missed the plethora of releases by WH in the last two years or so.
I had bought the 1001 ten or so years ago in 13.75oz Banner Denim and have been quite happy with it.

Recently I started having a closer look at the recent models. And while most are sold out now (that seems to happen quite quickly) I find it still interesting to learn about the different fabrics. Most likely there will be more releases coming up.

I have to admit, that I got more than confused.
For other brands it can be similar.
It would be cool to have threads for each brand explaining the most representative models and fabrics, a denim brand data repository so to speak.

So for the WH fabrics I found:
1. Banner denim- 13.75oz
mostly called "7番×7番(13.5 Oz)米綿 3州ブレンド" or "13.5 Oz 米綿3州ブレンド　経 約7番×緯 約7番" 

This is used for instance for the 1100, Lot DD-1001 (1951), Lot DD-1001XX(1947 MODEL) and Lot 1001XX. 

2. Then there is the slightly heavier Memphis Cotton 14.5oz
"6番×6番(14.5 Oz)メンフィスコットン単一綿"
Models with this denim include: Lot 800XX(STANDARD) and Lot 1001XX HEAVY OUNCE.

Then it seems with the anniversary releases and the WWII models the following fabrics were released:
3. Dead Stock Blue
"NEW 7.5番×7.5番 ピンクセルヴィッチデニム"
for example for the Lot 1000XX  and Lot 1001XX(1000XX)【1947MODEL】
but also
"NEW 6.7番×6.6番 ピンクセルヴィッチWWⅡデニム" 
for the Lot DD-1003XX NEW DENIM(1946 MODEL) and DEAD STOCK BLUE S1003XX (1000XX) 【1942MODEL】and Lot S1000XX

Not sure, what the weights are, but there seem to be two Dead Stock Blue fabrics
So the Lot 1000XX comes in both versions, the S prefix seems to indicate the WWII Denim DSB.

4. WWII Denim and New Denim
And then there seems to be another WWII denim which is not called Dead Stock Blue.
Strong vertical fading and marble potential is in the description for this one.
"6.7番×6.6番 WWⅡデニム"
in model Lot DD-S1003XX NEW DENIM(1944 MODEL)
"6.7番×6.6番" 
in model Lot DD-1003SXX NEW DENIM(1945 MODEL)

Perhaps #4 is the same as the second DSB model and the name DSB was just invented later.

So it would be great to hear, if anyone is familar with all of them and can compare them and perhaps also bring light to the different fabrics in a more clear way.

And has anyone cracked the code in the names?
What does "Lot 1001XX(1000XX)" or this "DEAD STOCK BLUE S1003XX (1000XX) " mean?
Lot describes the cut, no? 
So how would there be different year models for the same lot?

What does XX refer to?
What the prefix S?
 

 

[julian-wolf]

4 hours ago, indigoeagle said:

Perhaps #4 is the same as the second DSB model and the name DSB was just invented later.

The DSB denim has undergone some [unknown] treatment to make it appear as old dead stock fabric, akin to Ooe’s Time Machine treatment. They’ve been using this for maybe 3 years now. The “new denim” is, as the name suggests, newer; I only remember it starting to pop up some time last year. (Someone with a better memory than me, or more practiced detective skills, will correct me if that’s wrong.) It’s not treated, but the factory wash that’s used for the DD models is very aggressive, so that seems to have an effect of its own.

[julian-wolf]

4 hours ago, indigoeagle said:

Lot describes the cut, no? 
So how would there be different year models for the same lot?

 

What does XX refer to?

What the prefix S?

Levi’s has used a variety of different details, over the years, which distinguish different eras of jeans. The 1001xx will all be cut similarly, but will be constructed with details representative of different eras. Some versions have had slight changes to their cuts, too, though—and, at some point, the meaning of the model numbers does seem to get a bit blurry. I get the impression that the double names like 1001xx (1000) are vestiges of a time before each model was given an explicit year number, when this would be used to describe one cut using details that would be standard on another; I’m not sure of its current meaning.

I think that XX used to differentiate between different fabrics—but, as with the parenthetical double names, I’m not sure what part this plays now that there are more explicitly-labeled models.

As in most other cases, the prefix S is short for “simplified”, and refers to WWII models made under rationing restrictions (limited tacks and rivets, donut buttons, &c.)

[pomata]

So the standard 1001xx has banner denim?

[indigoeagle]

9 hours ago, julian-wolf said:

The DSB denim has undergone some [unknown] treatment to make it appear as old dead stock fabric, akin to Ooe’s Time Machine treatment. They’ve been using this for maybe 3 years now. The “new denim” is, as the name suggests, newer; I only remember it starting to pop up some time last year. (Someone with a better memory than me, or more practiced detective skills, will correct me if that’s wrong.) It’s not treated, but the factory wash that’s used for the DD models is very aggressive, so that seems to have an effect of its own.

Yes, I had read that about the DSB.

Which models use the "new" denim?

[indigoeagle]

9 hours ago, julian-wolf said:

Levi’s has used a variety of different details, over the years, which distinguish different eras of jeans. The 1001xx will all be cut similarly, but will be constructed with details representative of different eras. Some versions have had slight changes to their cuts, too, though—and, at some point, the meaning of the model numbers does seem to get a bit blurry. I get the impression that the double names like 1001xx (1000) are vestiges of a time before each model was given an explicit year number, when this would be used to describe one cut using details that would be standard on another; I’m not sure of its current meaning.

I think that XX used to differentiate between different fabrics—but, as with the parenthetical double names, I’m not sure what part this plays now that there are more explicitly-labeled models.

As in most other cases, the prefix S is short for “simplified”, and refers to WWII models made under rationing restrictions (limited tacks and rivets, donut buttons, &c.)

Levi's - probably a typo? WH?

Very interesting. 
S is good to remember- makes sense.

 

The XX is a bit confusing. It all evolved over the years probably and thus there are some consistencies in the number system.
I.e.  Lot 1001XX comes with Banner Denim and Lot 800XX with Memphis Cotton. The 1001XX in Memphis Cotton Denim has the suffix "HEAVY OUNCE" as I had listed above.

I think, if I recall correctly, a few years ago, the Lot 1001 was renamed to Lot 1001XX.
Not sure, if there is still a Lot 800 in Banner Denim.

Well, I guess, while it is a bit confusing, that is also part of the fun and mystery of the WH models.

Edited December 10, 2022 by indigoeagle

[julian-wolf]

15 minutes ago, indigoeagle said:

Levi's - probably a typo? WH?

Not a typo. All of the jeans you’ve mentioned are essentially Levi’s, even if they’re made and sold by Warehouse. The WH 1946, for example, is explicitly a 1946 Levi’s 501.

[AlientoyWorkmachine]

Just to add a bit my pair of DD 1003xx (1946) has the #6.7 × #6.6  Memphis cotton single thread 14.5oz - but is not described as the "heavy ounce" in the product description, or does it seem to be a DSB fabric. I haven't owned other WH but it appears to be a bit darker/crunchier than banner denim, for example. 

[indigoeagle]

54 minutes ago, julian-wolf said:

Not a typo. All of the jeans you’ve mentioned are essentially Levi’s, even if they’re made and sold by Warehouse. The WH 1946, for example, is explicitly a 1946 Levi’s 501.

I see. Of course.
I had somehow read it to mean, that the 1001XX name was also from Levi's.
Sure, you mean the different models like 1915, 1922, 1944, 1947, 1966, etc..
 

[indigoeagle]

44 minutes ago, AlientoyWorkmachine said:

Just to add a bit my pair of DD 1003xx (1946) has the #6.7 × #6.6  Memphis cotton single thread 14.5oz - but is not described as the "heavy ounce" in the product description, or does it seem to be a DSB fabric. I haven't owned other WH but it appears to be a bit darker/crunchier than banner denim, for example. 

Not sure, but it sounds like it would be the new denim or WWII denim, which might both be same and also be Dead Stock Blue. Not sure.
The Memphis seems to be "6x6".

That is also interesting that 6x6 is 14.5 oz, while 7x7 is 13.5 oz.
Can anyone explain the meaning of this?

[beautiful_FrEaK]

The 6x6 or 7x7 describes the thickness of the warp x weft threads.

[indigoeagle]

4 hours ago, beautiful_FrEaK said:

The 6x6 or 7x7 describes the thickness of the warp x weft threads.

Like in mm?
So 7 is thicker than 6, no? But 6x6 is heavier than 7x7 or am I overlooking something.

[beautiful_FrEaK]

It's a numbering system. 0 being the thickest thread and they get smaller the higher the number. 

 

[Maynard Friedman]

The lower the number, the thicker the thread. It’s just ordered by size, with 1 being the thickest.