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Everything posted by JMS

  1. JMS


    @julian-wolf a bit fuller through the back and noticeably more so through the armholes, which is exactly what I was looking for. It is a bit of a crap shoot with the armhole/back situation on warehouse shirts, unfortunately.
  2. JMS


    Enjoying lot 3038 a good bit!
  3. JMS


    @AlientoyWorkmachine Right. Japan is not dealing with supply-side or fiscal inflation right now to the degree the US or Europe is, which is good, but they are achieving this against the other major economies by (electronically) printing trillions of yen to prop up the JGB market, because no one wants to buy low yielding debt... which is not good! I would imagine WH is fairly insulated from most of this, as domestic wages are still largely flat, and the majority of their market share probably (?) stays within the Japanese market. I would imagine most Japanese brands that have overseas retailers are attempting to keep prices pegged to the relative pre-covid counterparties' currencies, and hope that the importing market's customers don't notice the weak yen, wondering why prices are the same as several years ago. It is a good way for WH to bring in extra yen (once converted from dollars) to offset the decline in dollar-denominated terms of their domestic market share. When we see prices for WH products at the same dollar-denominated values from years past, it is actually much more expensive because of how weak the yen is, but, say cheaper relative to if we priced the clothing in gas, housing, or food in the US. If we want to understand the cost of goods sold between international markets we need to approach it from the currency pair that best expresses the relationship. In this case, US CPI would be a poor choice, as the dollar has actually risen over the last year in the face of an even faster rising cost of goods. It is confusing - you can have both an inflating basket of goods and a strengthing dollar, but importantly when the inflation of the goods is higher than the relative strength, it expresses itself in real inflation (take the cost of fuel priced in dollars for example). But when the cost of goods inflation in the respective company is lower relative to the strength of the currency pair, it expresses itself in a cheaper or more expensive price, dependent upon if we are pricing it in USD/JPY or JPY/USD. Moral of the story is, any Japanese goods purchased priced in dollars or euros are actually more expensive than in years past, even with a historically higher CPI! That is how weak the Yen is.
  4. JMS


    @julian-wolf It seems to be an 88/12 wool-cotton blend. In the past, they've done 65/25/10 wool/cotton/nylon. The previous iterations have all been about 52,000 yen (including tax), so the price increase is noteworthy beyond the slight difference in the composition of the lining.
  5. JMS

    Ooe-Yofukuten & Co.

    So, If I'm a W32, do I need to order a W35 of the OA01xx? @scooby Can you throw up a waist measurement? Thanks.
  6. JMS

    Freewheelers, Bootleggers Reunion, Bubo, etc.

    I think I spy some nice two-two sweats on the top left, and the flannel shirt colors on the bottom right seem promising! Thanks, @Duke Mantee
  7. JMS

    Real McCoy's / Joe McCoy's Jeans

    @goodrain THANK U
  8. JMS

    Real McCoy's / Joe McCoy's Jeans

    Does anyone here have any Japanese connections or know of any proxies that will purchase RMC direct from Japan? The difference in cost with the current currency volatility is insane, looking at a 40-65% mark-up from JPY priced in USD vs. purchasing from retailers in GBP, USD, EUR, etc. Any leads would be really appreciated.
  9. JMS

    Freewheelers, Bootleggers Reunion, Bubo, etc.

    I think I heard somewhere that the s601xx is now a permanent product? With how they fade, I sure hope so!
  10. JMS

    Freewheelers, Bootleggers Reunion, Bubo, etc.

    Slow 'n steady, about one month in on the 43s. Will check back every month or so of wear. Happy Freewheelin!
  11. JMS

    Levi's Vintage Clothing

    @Mongmeohotdau814 Hinoya because of the weak Yen will likely be your best yet.
  12. JMS

    WAYWT 2022 [denim edition]

    @cultpop 0217 Great shots. Nice to see the change in scenery on the page.
  13. JMS

    Happy jeans: TCBxSufu S40s WW2 contest thread

    @Yot @chicote Congrats!
  14. JMS

    Full Count Denim Thread

    I dig them. Do they fit alright?
  15. JMS

    Superdenim community sale thread

    @NilsLW Even the tag shrunk from an L to an S!
  16. JMS

    Unknown Japanese Brands

    Nice looking shirts. Thanks for putting it on my radar.
  17. JMS

    Full Count Denim Thread

    Lovely, no-frills type 1. @spidereye
  18. JMS

    Sugar Cane Denim

    looks fantastic.
  19. Just a brief update on the Japanese Yen. It now trades at a discount of 25% against the US dollar (USD/JPY at 125). We can expect to see USD/JPY rise to 135, and perhaps even to 145-150 as the BoJ sacrifices its currency to prop up the UST market.
  20. JMS

    Vintage clothing and footwear

    Josh knows a lot, but he is not all-knowing. There are also plenty of dealers in the shop who label shit with impunity that I often find myself questioning. In reality, there are no clean breaks to date the majority of this stuff. Even the well-traveled world of vintage Levi's isn't definitive to the exact year in most cases.
  21. JMS

    Full Count Denim Thread

    In what period was Fullcount stamping the back of their rivets with Scoville? Got a deadstock 2107 in the mail today.
  22. JMS

    Sugar Cane Denim

    @beautiful_FrEaK There are reasons to believe this. I fully expect these 37s to have problems, the back of the chain stitch on the waist is actually missing in two small places. The leather quality is the worst I've yet come across on any of the big repro brands. At best, it's split grain. The crotch will probably go in a similar manner as did my MiUSA 47s, and I think the construction around the crotch is the weakest nock against all the MiUSA SCs I've yet had. And even still, the hardware is solid, I think this fabric is as good as anyone's, and the cut is just right. SC is charging a sizeable premium for their MiUSA models, and for this price, the issues I have with these offerings should've been resolved, imo. Whether they seek greater margins or pay more for labor relative to the Japanese market, or both, I know not. I had the privilege to speak with Larry McKaughan (Heller's Cafe) recently, and he was giving some insight into the process when he was looking to secure a producer for his own line of clothing. I hope he doesn't mind me sharing our conversation in part. In working with WH, he felt that the enthusiasm was always there, and the details and actual production were more or less in the money every time. The passion from the execs of brands like WH or FW shines through all the way to the finished product (he was specifically partial to FW). But, after witnessing the production floors in Japan, let's just say he had half a mind to walk away from the business of producing clothing altogether. Something about a particularly lifeless seamstress looking back at him... He hinted to me that when originally looking to secure a producer he had met with 'one of the larger' companies in Japan. They were insisting to him that they need not be too concerned with construction and fabric to improve profitability, as the consumer would pay for their goods regardless. My first guess was Toyo, but he (rightly) declined to tell me who it was. It's all speculation from my narrow view of this world, but I do think that Toyo isn't on the level Freewheelers or Warehouse are and that ultimately this discrepancy is a matter of personal philosophy stemming from the top. Edit: I will still wear the shit out of these MiUSA Sugarcane's
  23. JMS

    Sugar Cane Denim

    @unders I went TTS, and the fit is just right. Don't size up unless you want to really cinch the back or something.
  24. JMS

    Sugar Cane Denim

    The denim was so nice, I had to buy it twice!
  • Alan Crocetti Silver Nose Plaster
    $US 342