SUPERDENIM SMALL QUESTIONS THREAD (Use instead of making new threads)

[Talan]

1 hour ago, Duke Mantee said:

Thankfully you didn’t mention the need to breed with them …

The animals would refuse.

[Hopethisoneisnttaken]

6 hours ago, Duke Mantee said:

When people discuss expensive boots they often refer to them as handmade - but if the pattern is cut by a clicker press, the upper sewn by machine, the holes punched by a press, and the edge finishing done by machine etc … does hand sewing the upper to the sole count as a hand made boot?

Pretty much the same as when people refer to denim items as handmade. I don’t really get it either. 

[superheavent]

Hi Guys,

Does anyone here ever tried purchasing any T-Shirt made by your favorite Japanese jeans maker and actually wear them? i am talking about Warehouse.Co Tees, Samurai Tees, Studio D'Artisan Tees, Momotaro Tees, Etc that can cost as low as $70 to $100 and above... my questions are, does those Tees REALLY GOOD and WORTH THE PRICE TAG? Like what are the difference between those Japanese Tees and let say $20-$30 Tees?

I'm just browsing the net and found a retailer that offer Warehouse.Co Tees... Judging from their picture, obviously it looks really good in terms of their color & construction. But is it really worth the price? Please anybody enlighten me. 

[Double 0 Soul]

53 minutes ago, superheavent said:

Hi Guys,

Does anyone here ever tried purchasing any T-Shirt made by your favorite Japanese jeans maker and actually wear them?

But is it really worth the price? Please anybody enlighten me. 

Yes.. all of us

No.. it's just a tee-shirt

[Maynard Friedman]

^ 00 takes your conventional logic and turns it on its head by buying Fruit of the Loom jeans!

[mr.invincible]

for those in the states, the currency is pretty good. What are you guys buying to take advantage of this? and where?

 

I am looking for:

1. Buzz Rickson/Toys Mccoy

2. Good quality tees

3. Visvim

4. Denim

5. anything else?

Edited September 13, 2022 by mr.invincible

[Hopethisoneisnttaken]

For Buzz Ricksons you can buy directly from Hinoya or via Zenmarket/Buyee whatever other proxy service you fancy. 

[k.i.s.]

Hi Guys,

I haven't been buying Jeans for a few years now and im looking to get a new pair (that fits after putting on some weight :D). I can't seem to get the waist sizing right on several brands.
I have checked all the Threads and Measurements on the Websites (which rarely seem to match for the same models) I use my snug LVC 54 in a size W36 as a reference for several options and from my understanding I would be a: (But if possible could you please correct me)
W36 in Sugar Cane 66
W38 Resolute 710
W38 Warehouse 800XX (One Wash)
W40 Warehouse 1001XX (No Wash)

I would appreciate feedback on these size options or/and your experience on the W sizing.
Thank you 

[mstax]

Just wondering, what do guys prefer on your jeans construction wise: cotton or poly thread?

[julian-wolf]

I always strongly prefer cotton. Threads shrinking along with the denim seems to help with getting nice puckering and roping, and in the long term nothing looks weirder than beat up, faded jeans with perfectly intact threads. In order for me to consider jeans with poly-core constructional thread, they’d need to be a pretty significant departure from the standard mid-century styling that I’m usually interested in for it to not look too out of place—the overdyed jeans from Iron Heart come to mind as one place where I don’t think I’d mind it too much.

It’s def. worth mentioning, though, that not all cotton thread is created equal—not by a long shot. The two extrema would probably be the thread that Warehouse uses, which falls apart pretty much right away, and the thread that Freewheelers uses, which seems to last just about forever. Personally, I’d always go for the latter.

Edited October 10, 2022 by julian-wolf

[mstax]

Also a cotton fan here. Totally agree with what you say. For me it’s also kind of an esthetic reason why I prefer it. The aging and breaking threads adds just the right amount of character to finish that worn in look. Plus up close poly threads have a shine that’s just really not nice when you have quality loomed denim, just doesn’t fit together, looks cheap. I.e. LVC uses poly thread in pretty much everything since even the Valencia days and that really put me off liking their stuff.

Now a well made ring spun poly core and cotton outer thread might be acceptable (not for me) but a 100% poly I’d never go for. Interestingly enough almost none of the brands explicitly communicate what they use for thread. Just some and I’m happy they do. 

I’d go so far that I prefer cotton thread for everything. I think in most cases it’s also the right choice because I don’t see any real advantage in using poly thread over cotton for a t-shirt for example. I mean, how durable and long lasting do those seams really need to be? One example is Merz B Schwanen who uses poly thread for the construction of their garments. I love their fabric and shirts but that thread is a real let down for me unfortunately, it just doesn’t suit the garment (at least for me).

Plus I think cotton thread is also environmentally a little bit better and it makes the garment as a whole better recyclable.

[julian-wolf]

54 minutes ago, mstax said:

I’d go so far that I prefer cotton thread for everything.

Boots come to mind as the one obvious counterexample—but, even there, waxed flax or hemp would probably be preferable if available

[AlientoyWorkmachine]

I prefer cotton but only by a bit and only moreso in the last few years, and I won't let it make or break a decision if I can't find a comparable cotton thread option for whatever it is I'm after - and some makers I like just don't use it, which bothers me a bit more than it used to but still not enough to swear off them. I never found faded jeans from contemporary brands to look bad because of their poly threads - different, yes, but I'm on record here before specifying I don't have much special preference for repro. I like it, but I also like other stuff. I like cotton because it holds natural dyes (I own a lot of Tender Co. stuff) and because in general I'm just not a fan of plastic anything in most cases wherever avoidable. That said, I'd agree that cotton isn't all equal - I probably won't buy WH jeans again because as much as I like them, my pair is too young to need reinforcing every month or more, which is where their at. My Tender's in particular seem to hold up the best in the areas where it counts because of the triple stitching. The thread still breaks but in some of the areas it doesn't much matter. 

Edited October 10, 2022 by AlientoyWorkmachine

[beautiful_FrEaK]

Yeah this question only bothers me with jeans and I strongly prefer 100% cotton for the aging aspects.

Ironically, one of my favourite jeans (Resolute 710) seem to use Poly/Cotton threads and I don't mind this. Honestly, I never would have thought it's not cotton. I was only surprised how durable the threads are.

And I agree with Julian: Full Count and Warehouse should use a bit more sturdy cotton threads. 

[blooming]

On 9/6/2022 at 9:18 PM, superheavent said:

Hi Guys,

Does anyone here ever tried purchasing any T-Shirt made by your favorite Japanese jeans maker and actually wear them? i am talking about Warehouse.Co Tees, Samurai Tees, Studio D'Artisan Tees, Momotaro Tees, Etc that can cost as low as $70 to $100 and above... my questions are, does those Tees REALLY GOOD and WORTH THE PRICE TAG? Like what are the difference between those Japanese Tees and let say $20-$30 Tees?

I'm just browsing the net and found a retailer that offer Warehouse.Co Tees... Judging from their picture, obviously it looks really good in terms of their color & construction. But is it really worth the price? Please anybody enlighten me. 

Yeah! First post here, and happy to spread love for some nice Japanese-made tees. Personal favorites for a modern-fit, plain white or black tee are The Strike Gold and Studio D'Artisan. Similar feeling knit, TSG fits a little boxier and more "classic" than SDA.

 

The Warehouse are interesting and SUPER comfy. The fabric feels thick/fluffy but is surprisingly lightweight and breathable. I'd say they are an ideal warm weather/summer tee.

[oomslokop]

my blacksmith (all cotton thread) was hemmed at a store that uses i think poly cotton. in any case the hem thread has stayed permanently shiny all these years (tho it creates much roping), which bothers me to no end i always wear the jeans cuffed. not visible to anyone but my mind's eye, no one would care, but such is our particularity about clothes. 

[mstax]

Interesting to see that the preference seems to be cotton thread or in case of footwear other natural fibers. I collect vintage denim and have some pieces from as early as the 50’s and what I noticed is that the switch came in the mid 60’s. I have two big E 501’s: one 50/50 cotton thread and poly and one completely poly. Poly was used in jeans first, later in jackets but jackets up to the early 70’s use cotton thread whereas the 501’s already had poly. Wrangler used cotton thread to a longer period it seems from the garments I have. Lee I’m not sure. If someone has a Lee 101J from the 60’s I’d love to know what type of thread is used. 

I think it should become more of a standard to mention what type of thread is used as I see we denimheads care about that and make a well considered choice for one or the other.

Thanks for all your feedback!

[Hopethisoneisnttaken]

@julian-wolf so I was not aware that not all cotton threads are created equal, but I did experience something similar to what you describe where in all of my tcb jeans the thread fell apart rather quickly, but with mister freedom and moto etc they wear much much slower. I find Moto in specific to be weird since I always assumed tcb manufactures for them. 

[julian-wolf]

@Hopethisoneisnttaken I can’t comment on who does the clothes for MOTO, but it wouldn’t be at all uncommon for clothes to be contracted out to a factory with the specification that non-stock thread be used for the construction—it’s very plausible that they’re made in the TCB factory with fabric, thread, etc., supplied or sourced by MOTO

[Talan]

Repeat from WH thread: My new Warehouse DSB 1001 XX 1947 arrived today. I would like to ask for recommendations for the arches. Leave them as they are (unlikely)? Option a? Option b? Remove altogether? Or something else? Thank you!

original:

a:

b:

Edited October 22, 2022 by Talan

[Maynard Friedman]

Option c) Both upside down - I wish I’d done that with my Warehouse.

W for Warehouse for the Win.

Edited October 22, 2022 by Maynard Friedman

[AlientoyWorkmachine]

Mine are option B, and I like both upside down too, but there are lots more options! I think any besides A is the right way to go. Feels quite weird to me to go full Levi's knockoff route when they're something much better than Levi's. I like Levi's arcs as much as anyone but they don't mean anything on new jeans to me. 

[JDelage]

People: what are your go-to pants for semi dress / business casual occasions, when jeans would not be appropriate?

Mines are mostly MFSC pairs. 

[Maynard Friedman]

Farahs 

[MJF9]

Can’t remember them… got any fit pics??  

[Hopethisoneisnttaken]

1 hour ago, JDelage said:

People: what are your go-to pants for semi dress / business casual occasions, when jeans would not be appropriate?

Mines are mostly MFSC pairs. 

Cushmans salt and pepper chambray chinos. Buzz Ricksons military chinos. 

[vlad_III]

Any good options for plain white t-shirts all cotton threads?

merz. B. Had terrible experience with quality control. Also biggest size is too small in shoulders still. 
UES looks interesting but size 5 is biggest and is just a bit too small. 
would prefer Japanese brands as I live in Tokyo and can probably go and try on. 

[CSL]

30 minutes ago, vlad_III said:

Any good options for plain white t-shirts all cotton threads?
would prefer Japanese brands as I live in Tokyo and can probably go and try on. 

For me most all of the heritage brand T's are too short for my needs. That being said, I do like the fabric on the Real McCoys loopwheeled T's. 

I also been happy with Mister Freedom T's (should available in Japan).

I'd check out Stevenson Overall too. I don't have their t-shirt but their henleys are great.

Edited November 10, 2022 by CSL

[mlwdp]

Can anyone here educate me on Kibata denim?  Who mills it, what part of Japan does it originate from?  Saw that my Phigvel and 3sixteen denim produces this denim and never heard of it.

[julian-wolf]

That’s just Japanese for loomstate, isn’t it?