SUPERDENIM SMALL QUESTIONS THREAD (Use instead of making new threads)

[shredwin_206]

Anyone ever purchased from Brogue? Eyeing a Freewheelers piece.  

[fabes]

2 hours ago, shredwin_206 said:

Anyone ever purchased from Brogue? Eyeing a Freewheelers piece.  

I have. Basic US retailer experience with a few exceptions. Poor communication with no phone number and really slow or non responsive to email/IG messages. Quick to ship. I had to return the product and was charged a restock fee. Was expected and on their website. Measurement charts are just copied from other Japan retailers like mirrorball for the FW items. 

Overall, I would still buy from them if they had what I wanted, but they wouldn’t be my first choice or even close if other retailers had the same item. 

I will give them credit as they put out some tasty Alden makeups. 

Edited November 5 by fabes

[Alec Leamas]

9 hours ago, fabes said:

they put out some tasty Alden makeups. 

Just had a look and they sure do! 👀

Also nice to see some Timeworn stuff listed on their site

[tooth]

11 hours ago, shredwin_206 said:

Anyone ever purchased from Brogue? Eyeing a Freewheelers piece.  

I’ve had good experiences the few times I’ve ordered from Brogue. But from a communication perspective, I reached out recently via email (as stated on the site) re: a pair of TWC, but have not heard back… kind of a bummer.

Agree with @fabes that their Alden make ups are very nice and seeing them displayed in store is awesome. I’d recommend checking the store out if you’re ever in SF, have a car and want to get out of the city.

[Thicolas Rage]

Any WWII era repro jeans out there with a wider thigh? Need at least 12.25-12.5 inches of room at a 30-31 inch waist and the searching is proving difficult. 

Edited November 5 by Thicolas Rage

[nick682]

3 minutes ago, Thicolas Rage said:

Any WWII era repro jeans out there with a wider thigh? Need at least 12.25-12.5 inches of room at an 30-31 inch waist and the searching is proving difficult. 

Have you looked into Freewheelers S601XX?

[shredwin_206]

@Thicolas Rage almost every cut of Freewheelers jeans will fit what you want. I have decent sized legs and have been happy in all of my cuts from them. 

[willi]

Question about OCBDs: Is anyone familiar with how the length of OCBDs has changed over time? Does anyone have vintage BB shirts and can describe the length relative to modern descendants, Kamakura etc?

[Thicolas Rage]

Thanks @shredwin_206 and @nick682 - definitely interested in FW but a little bit intimidated about where to purchase them from Japan. Have experience with Bears, Hinoya, Celluloid, etc. but none stock freewheelers. What’s the general consensus on where to grab from? 

Edited November 5 by Thicolas Rage

[beautiful_FrEaK]

@Thicolas Rage the usual go to place here is Hoosier Clothing. You cam find him on IG. But be aware, currently he very busy/slow.

[Thicolas Rage]

1 hour ago, beautiful_FrEaK said:

@Thicolas Rage the usual go to place here is Hoosier Clothing. You cam find him on IG. But be aware, currently he very busy/slow.

Thanks! I’m in no rush so I’ll shoot him a DM and see what he suggests.

[CSL]

I visited the Brogue store a while back when I happened to be in the area.
I was able to return a piece despite it being a sale item (they don't officially accept returns on those). I bought a couple of FW items. A rare opportunity to try those things on & look in the mirror. Very few US stores carry FW. Had a shot of single malt scotch. Can't complain...

[rbeck]

Anyone have any idea where to buy mil-spec styles of fabric for fatigue pants and whatnot? Been wanting a pair of baker pants for a while and always strike out with vintage pairs since I'm real tall, so I'd like to make my own pair. Only problem is I'm finding it difficult to track down suitable fabric. 

[reallypeacedoff]

7 hours ago, rbeck said:

Anyone have any idea where to buy mil-spec styles of fabric for fatigue pants and whatnot? Been wanting a pair of baker pants for a while and always strike out with vintage pairs since I'm real tall, so I'd like to make my own pair. Only problem is I'm finding it difficult to track down suitable fabric. 

Probably not much help but an old friend of mine (he started Rag & Bone) used to spec mil-spec parachutes for jackets he was making, among denim for his other project too. I know he used to travel to Vernon in Los Angeles, and I have heard from others too, that's the area to source that kind of stuff (rolls of headstock japanese denim, custom made tees et al) but I have no idea where you'd start to gather that info.

[Alec Leamas]

On 11/5/2024 at 6:58 PM, willi said:

Question about OCBDs: Is anyone familiar with how the length of OCBDs has changed over time? Does anyone have vintage BB shirts and can describe the length relative to modern descendants, Kamakura etc?

I have a couple off the back of my recent OCBD spree (that you kindly imparted some advice on) - I can check some of the lengths of mine - I now have a couple Kamakura and BB to compare...I'll come back to you with some measurements soon!

[yung_flynn]

On 11/5/2024 at 1:58 PM, willi said:

Question about OCBDs: Is anyone familiar with how the length of OCBDs has changed over time? Does anyone have vintage BB shirts and can describe the length relative to modern descendants, Kamakura etc?

Dick Carroll might if you contact him. He's usually responsive. The shape and depth of the hem is one of the more telltale sign for dating shirts along with number of buttons and chest pocket (at least for Brooks Brothers).

Style & Fashion Drawings: History of Brooks Brothers' Iconic Button Down – Put This On

I actually have a 1970's Brooks Brothers ocbd and an Ametora model from Kamakura which is supposedly based on 60s/70s BB in design. I can take a closer look at their lengths sometime this weekend if you are curious. I've noticed that the part of the yoke where it meets the sleevehead is much narrower on the real vintage shirt, so even though the shoulder-to-shoulder distance measures the same as the Kamakura, the vintage BB effectively is more constrictive (but still easily wearable for me).

[willi]

Thanks for replies. Aside from hem shape, my interest is in total dress length, or functionally what is the 'tucking margin' of the shirts and has it changed between eras. Some older BBs look very square to me, but I don't have any samples on hand to compare and hard to date from ebay images.

[yung_flynn]

16 hours ago, willi said:

Thanks for replies. Aside from hem shape, my interest is in total dress length, or functionally what is the 'tucking margin' of the shirts and has it changed between eras. Some older BBs look very square to me, but I don't have any samples on hand to compare and hard to date from ebay images.

Here are measurements from base of collar to hem for a range of shirts:

15.5/36 1970s BB - 31”

15.5 Kamakura Ametora - 31”

16/35 2010s BB Milano Fit - 30”

15.5/35 Recent J Press Trim fit - 30”

16/35 2000s BB trad fit - 32.5”

range of chest widths in these is huge though too from 20.5-21” p2p for Milano to 25” p2p for 2010s BB trad. 
 

Roughly (based on vibes) chest width in increasing order is: Milano, Press Trim Fit, 70s BB, Ametora, BB 2000s-2010s trad fit. 
 

Kamakura Vintage Ivy is closest to Press Trim Fit based on memory. However, Vintage Ivy doesn’t fit me well (too constricting in shoulders) so my memory may not be precise

Edited November 8 by yung_flynn

[shredwin_206]

Anyone have issues with payment on buyer? Tried to buy it now twice on an item and when I go into PayPal it says both times payment was cancelled. Frustrating. 

[dada mafiosi]

Guys, anyone recently bought Freewheelers 601xx 1951? what is the waist measurement in size 34 or size 36? 

As this pair is sold "one wash" , I expect that after use the waist will stretch back to raw or near raw position, say waist is 86cm so it will become 91cm or if the waist is 88cm , it will become 93 cm, right?

I am used to flat measurement method (A) but most shops using "waist measurment using circumeference" (B)

I see using Flat Method the waist is 45 x 2 = 90cm , whereas using 2nd method 44 x 2 = 88, so if a shop is using 2nd method, simply I can add 2cm to reah "Flat Method A" right?

A "Flat Method"

B "Waist Measurment using Circumeference"

 

Edited November 10 by dada mafiosi

[willi]

On 11/8/2024 at 9:57 AM, yung_flynn said:

Here are measurements from base of collar to hem for a range of shirts:

15.5/36 1970s BB - 31”

15.5 Kamakura Ametora - 31”

16/35 2010s BB Milano Fit - 30”

15.5/35 Recent J Press Trim fit - 30”

16/35 2000s BB trad fit - 32.5”

range of chest widths in these is huge though too from 20.5-21” p2p for Milano to 25” p2p for 2010s BB trad. 
 

Roughly (based on vibes) chest width in increasing order is: Milano, Press Trim Fit, 70s BB, Ametora, BB 2000s-2010s trad fit. 
 

Kamakura Vintage Ivy is closest to Press Trim Fit based on memory. However, Vintage Ivy doesn’t fit me well (too constricting in shoulders) so my memory may not be precise

Thanks, I appreciate the measurements. Here are length measurements from a few modern shirts I own for reference (same reference points, I measured in cm and rounded to the closest half inch)

Oconnell's heavyweight ox (17): ~32

Jake's ox (16.5): ~32

Worker's Modified Fit ox (17): ~29.5

No conclusions from this sample other than oxfords come in many lengths, and 2.5" makes a big difference in how the shirt fits. The shorter length on the Jpress is interesting because I imagine it most commonly paired with a modern low rise jean or chino.

[yung_flynn]

1 hour ago, willi said:

The shorter length on the Jpress is interesting because I imagine it most commonly paired with a modern low rise jean or chino.

I think that the standard/classic fit may be a bit longer, but I only have a classic fit broadcloth from them. The trim fit is still plenty slouchy though, but presently I would prefer the classic

[tjsma]

On 11/9/2024 at 5:45 AM, shredwin_206 said:

Anyone have issues with payment on buyer? Tried to buy it now twice on an item and when I go into PayPal it says both times payment was cancelled. Frustrating. 

Assuming you meant Buyee, I had a similar problem about a year ago. I asked Buyee at the time and this was their response:

“Regarding the error you have experienced, we have confirmed the reason and unfortunately Buyee can not purchase this item from the seller since this item belongs to a new Yahoo! JAPAN Auction's purchase function.

For future bids/purchases in Yahoo! JAPAN Auction, please refer below to how to confirm which items can not be purchased at the moment:

1. The Buyee page shows "Win now for Buyout price".

2. You click on "View on Yahoo! JAPAN Auction",　if the orange button in the Yahoo page reads:
購入手続きへ (Proceed to ordering)

It means is an item that is not available for purchase on the Yahoo! JAPAN Auction site

We are working on implementing this new purchase method on our Yahoo! auction system. However, at the moment, we are unable to confirm when this will be available in Yahoo! Auction.”

[tjsma]

What do people tend to do with sharp rivets in jeans? I recently bought a new pair and the rivets around the pockets are scratching my pampered hands. 

[FurnitureMaker]

A quick way to deaden a sharp rivet is to simply place rivet over something hard, flat  and sturdy, whatever you have most approximating an anvil. Take a normal hammer and let the head drop onto the rivet. Use more force until you have the desired effect. 

[AlientoyWorkmachine]

The only jeans I own that have them are Freewheelers. I leave mine unless the shop already flattened them, which always leaves me a little disappointed - it's one of my favorite features. 

[dada mafiosi]

On 11/10/2024 at 8:17 PM, dada mafiosi said:

Guys, anyone recently bought Freewheelers 601xx 1951? what is the waist measurement in size 34 or size 36? 

As this pair is sold "one wash" , I expect that after use the waist will stretch back to raw or near raw position, say waist is 86cm so it will become 91cm or if the waist is 88cm , it will become 93 cm, right?

I am used to flat measurement method (A) but most shops using "waist measurment using circumeference" (B)

I see using Flat Method the waist is 45 x 2 = 90cm , whereas using 2nd method 44 x 2 = 88, so if a shop is using 2nd method, simply I can add 2cm to reah "Flat Method A" right?

A "Flat Method"

B "Waist Measurment using Circumeference"

 

I got answer to these two methods:

https://denimbmc.com/how-to-measure-the-waist-on-jeans-the-two-industry-standard-methods/

 

[shredwin_206]

@tjsma thanks I got really frustrated/annoyed. @Broark helped me secure the piece I was after 

[dawn]

 Hello, all. For those that were active on here back in the day—does anyone know what happened to Bill? Loved his fits with his signature of him sitting on the paint can. Hoping someone had saved his fits and can share them 🙂

[oomslokop]

On 11/11/2024 at 12:17 AM, dada mafiosi said:

B "Waist Measurment using Circumeference"

just a note, in my experience when japanese shops use a waist measuring method that involves the word "circumference" when machine translated back into english, usually they mean for u to take a measuring tape around the inside of the waistband with the jeans buttoned (of course). i actually like this measurement method. served me well in the past. it will result in a smaller waist measurement than you are used to, but don't be alarmed.