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Denim Blunders, Reflections and General Nonsense.


cmboland

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5 hours ago, 1fookntitefd said:

Someone explain to me why after size 36 every size is two sizes up instead of one. How come no manufacturers make a size 37 or 39? After 36 sizing goes to 38 and then 40 and so on.

The reason for this is because years ago the common sizes for jeans were 28 to 32, but as people got larger over the years manufacturers stuck to the old sizing method which is to skip the odd sizes in less common sizes.  Now the best selling sizes (in the west) are 33 and 34 (in Japanese brand sized jeans), meaning most companies should be making 35 and 37, but they don't.

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Posted (edited)

Broadly it’s to do with grading and demand.

A pair of jeans (or just about any other item) will not grade successfully from the smallest size to the biggest size - so the manufacturer then has to make multiple patterns. This adds to development costs … and could well impact fabric choices / costs.

The pattern is developed from what will be the most popular sizes (and likely a particular body type - this is an issue) so the manufacturer will be even more reluctant to create a new pattern for would have the lowest demand. Pretty much what Kiya said.

There are potential other issues but safe to say it’s not the most straightforward route to just add extra size availability to a product.

 

Edited by Duke Mantee
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On 7/4/2024 at 10:25 PM, Sympathy-For-The-Denim said:

May Labour make you buy more Denim and get your asses back into the EU...

France's also in the middle of an election right now, and the UK's Labour program is pretty much to the right of anything on offer in France (from an economic stand point).

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^ not from a social standpoint, though the UK is a mess there too. I read that Le Pen is winning an alarming share of the vote for the party previously called the National Front... basically racists... sad days... hopefully the right way prevails

Anyway best get back to denim eh!!!

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Le Pen's policies are xenophobic, but her social program is actually very much on the left: higher minimum wages, subsidized basic goods, lower retirement age, nationalization of highways, etc.

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  • 2 weeks later...

How do people interpret a claim that an item fits "true to size"?

I'm asking out of curiosity (in the spirit of "general nonsense") rather than for any practical reason. It seems to me that it could be used to mean quite different things in different contexts -

- true to the brand's sizing (so a Nudie w32 fits true to size if it fits like other Nudie jeans, i.e. about 3" oversized)

- true to actual measurements (so a w32 fits true to size if the waist measures 32")

- true to average jeans sizing (so a w32 fits true to size if it fits like you'd expect most w32 jeans to fit)

I suspect that on here, the second is the most popular interpretation. But amongst (e.g.) people who post reviews on Amazon or brands' own websites, the third is probably more common. And if brands say it themselves,  maybe they mean the first?

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21 minutes ago, Mtvare said:

How do people interpret a claim that an item fits "true to size"?

I'm asking out of curiosity (in the spirit of "general nonsense") rather than for any practical reason. It seems to me that it could be used to mean quite different things in different contexts -

- true to the brand's sizing (so a Nudie w32 fits true to size if it fits like other Nudie jeans, i.e. about 3" oversized)

- true to actual measurements (so a w32 fits true to size if the waist measures 32")

- true to average jeans sizing (so a w32 fits true to size if it fits like you'd expect most w32 jeans to fit)

I suspect that on here, the second is the most popular interpretation. But amongst (e.g.) people who post reviews on Amazon or brands' own websites, the third is probably more common. And if brands say it themselves,  maybe they mean the first?

I get asked this on a daily basis from customers via email, social media DM's, etc.. and I never know what to answer because what really IS "true to size"?  Who's determined the "true" size of anything?  If you're a person who's been buying Japanese brands your true to size for jean would be the waist matching the tagged size by .5", where as if you're a person buying western brands your true would be anywhere between 1" to 3" above that.. so really there is no "true to size" as a universal saying.

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You may have someone who is a measured 34” waist who wears size 32” jeans (which start out at 34”, shrink to 32” and stretch back to 34” if required) and therefore considers themself as a ‘true’ 32!

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1 hour ago, kiya said:

I get asked this on a daily basis from customers via email, social media DM's, etc.. and I never know what to answer because what really IS "true to size"?  Who's determined the "true" size of anything?  If you're a person who's been buying Japanese brands your true to size for jean would be the waist matching the tagged size by .5", where as if you're a person buying western brands your true would be anywhere between 1" to 3" above that.. so really there is no "true to size" as a universal saying.

That's the kind of consideration that got me thinking about it actually. I have a decent sense of what people mean by it in the context of Japanese denim,  but lately I've been trying to buy shorts for holidays. This is stuff I'm unlikely to wear more than four weeks in a year, so I want it to fit properly but I'm not looking for durability,  ageing characteristics and all the rest of it. So I'm looking at unfamiliar websites and brands and their customers say things fit "true to size". I'm none the wiser.

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I've seen people give sizing recommendations as "true to size" plenty of times and also never quite get what they mean. I've always been a detailed size chart person and pay little to no attention to the tag though, which is part of the reason why the "true to size" claim is confusing to me. I have a tagged size 31 Warehouse 1001xx, a tagged size 32 Sugar Cane 1947, and a tagged size 33  Shins-era Denime that all fit my 31.5" natural waist similarly. Using different logic, I can contort my mind into believing that any of those are true-to-size.

The other thing that makes the tagged size being "true-to-size" confusing and not very useful in my own mind is that this classification does not account for different rises. A 9.5" rise pair would probably need a larger waist measurement than a 13" rise pair, so they would either have the same tagged size and fit across the waistband identically and be "true-to-size" to one person despite measuring differently, or they would have different tagged sizes that match their different measurements and be "true-to-size" to a different person because the tagged size matches the actual measurements.

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It gets even more complicated when you consider that most people don't wear their jeans on their actual waist anymore, but on their hips. So a 31-32 size on a pair of jeans, even if it actually measures 31-32", really corresponds with where they sit on my hips, my actual waist being a bit smaller.

Anyway, different topic, I've found the way I wear my jeans has changed in recent times. I've been wearing them uncuffed for a few reasons: I no longer care about showing off selvedge; it has a bit of a cleaner/less noisy/costume-y appearance; and maybe most of all, no more cleaning out dirty cuffs or expensive darning repairs on blown-out cuff lines.

Although I still wash my jeans on what most would consider an infrequent basis and like to have some good contrast fading, I'm giving a lot more thought to overall longevity. I'm keeping my keys, wallet, phone in a Porter Yoshida shoulder bag of the sort you see guys wearing all the time in Japan, which means no annoying phone pocket fade, cleaner overall appearance, and avoiding pocket repairs caused by wallets.

I started to feel like my appearance had gotten really complicated with the accessories, and I'm enjoying this simplified look of just jeans + belt at the visual center of my outfits. It's a bit more of a down-to-earth, low key look, which I suppose also suits me getting older and leaning into dadhood and all that.

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I wouldn’t read too much into it. All the email does is acknowledge something that unambiguously happened. They don’t come anywhere close, in the email, to making a judgment call one way or the other, and they have a long history of using seemingly random occasions as (tenuous) excuses to have little sales.

Out of curiosity, what issue do you take with it, personally?

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I deleted the last post in case S&S thought I was calling them out on picking a side in what’s happened in the last 24 hours.  They probably gained a few new customers by the sale.

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Sizing has been my biggest blunder. That abd buying too much too soon. Now I have a bunch  of brand new pairs about a size or two too big I have to now sell. 

I measured wrong and went up a size when I shouldn't have 

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  • 3 weeks later...
1 hour ago, beautiful_FrEaK said:

All I can say for now, it's from a one-man-brand.
So that rules out Resolute ;)

Maybe still interesting for you @aho ?
 

Always interested! 😆

Considering Warehouse 1001XX(1000XX) 1947's which were recently restocked on the WH website as well 

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