TCB

[blooming]

On 10/13/2024 at 1:15 AM, Thicolas Rage said:

Does anyone have any experience with how much the 20's jacket shrinks over a couple washes? Love the body length but the sleeves are always either rolled or look like they are swallowing the hands of all the models who are wearing it on the TCB website.

TCB jackets tend to have longer sleeves than comparable jackets from other brands. From my knowledge, the 20s denim is prone to shrinking more with the first couple of washes, so I can imagine the sleeve and body length will be affected by that. If I had to guess, the longer sleeve length seems to be part of their intended fit because they tend to prefer the slouchier, looser look from shots all over their website and social media.

[Thicolas Rage]

7 hours ago, blooming said:

TCB jackets tend to have longer sleeves than comparable jackets from other brands. From my knowledge, the 20s denim is prone to shrinking more with the first couple of washes, so I can imagine the sleeve and body length will be affected by that. If I had to guess, the longer sleeve length seems to be part of their intended fit because they tend to prefer the slouchier, looser look from shots all over their website and social media.

 Thanks for the info! Yeah it seems like the sleeves are just cut that way, no real way around it. Have also been considering the buzz ricksons ww2 type I jacket but I haven’t really seen any reviews on it so it’s hard to compare to a potential TCB pickup. 

[blooming]

If you order from them directly, you can probably ask them to hem the sleeves. I'm not sure if it's a thing, but it's worth asking in the order notes.

[beautiful_FrEaK]

I'd wish TCB would do more t-shirts with Sure Mfg. My Caturday tee is probably my favourite in terms of fit. If I onlw knew which version that would be on the XX Development/Sure MfG website it is, I would order it. And if it would be in stock...

[willi]

I have a couple Ts from Sure and they are consistent in fit even if there is variation in texture and weight that's hard to predict. I've also bought their sweats which are great. I always buy by email, just tell them what I want and paypal them the value. Nice business and they seem like kind people.

[indigoeagle]

4 hours ago, beautiful_FrEaK said:

I'd wish TCB would do more t-shirts with Sure Mfg. My Caturday tee is probably my favourite in terms of fit. If I onlw knew which version that would be on the XX Development/Sure MfG website it is, I would order it. And if it would be in stock...

Wasn't the Rebuilt maker also manufacturing  tshirts for Jelado?
And I think the Cushman t shirts are also made using old sewing machines.
Not sure, how that compares to the ones by Sure.

[Broark]

53 minutes ago, indigoeagle said:

Wasn't the Rebuilt maker also manufacturing  tshirts for Jelado?

He makes tees (and sweats) for YM Factory, he’s doing a pair of jeans for Jelado but no tees that I’m aware of.

[indigoeagle]

5 minutes ago, Broark said:

He makes tees (and sweats) for YM Factory, he’s doing a pair of jeans for Jelado but no tees that I’m aware of.

I think, it's the same guy.
He made a USMC tee for them.

 

[Broark]

@indigoeagle Nice find, the YM Factory tees are some of my favorites. Might have to try these out as well.

[indigoeagle]

17 minutes ago, Broark said:

@indigoeagle Nice find, the YM Factory tees are some of my favorites. Might have to try these out as well.

https://jelado.com/products/jelado-usmc-loopwheel-tee-ag82221?_pos=1&_sid=195a25fab&_ss=r

[indigoeagle]

The USMC tshirt seems a bit short for XL and XXL with 66cm (26") and 67cm (26.4") resp..

Edited October 16 by indigoeagle

[Broark]

Just now, indigoeagle said:

The USMC tshirt seems a bit short for XL and XXL with 66cm (26") and 67cm (26.4") resp..

Was thinking the same thing, a bit small in the chest as well.

[willi]

Been wearing the 1890s most days since the end of July. Washed twice. Not giving much up yet.

Edited October 16 by willi

[yung_flynn]

2 hours ago, willi said:

Not giving much up yet.

I've been wearing about 50% of the time since July and they're pretty stubborn. Even the knees, crotch, and belt loops are holding color strongly. I don't really mind though because they have a nice depth of color.

They did lose some a decent amount of indigo in the wash though based on the tonal contrast with my jacket.

[Thicolas Rage]

Having used the great group of people here as a bountiful resource for many months, I figured it was time to post some photos for the first time and share my two first TCB purchases - the Baker pant and 20's jacket.

 

Starting with the 20s jacket, I'd first to like to thank @istewi and @blooming for the great advice regarding shrinkage and sizing. I ended up going for a size 44 off of primarily the chest measurements (I am around 172cm tall with a 50-51cm chest and weigh about 75kg) which felt like a daunting jump from my usual size but I think it worked out well. I wanted to be able to wear it across as many seasons as possible given the fabric's lighter weight so this size allows me to wear with either a t-shirt or a sweatshirt underneath (I've even managed to fit it under my Barbour). The sleeves need to be cuffed once, as I expected, but the cuff isn't bulky at all and I quite like how it looks. I am concerned it is a little on the longer side regarding overall body length, as it sits around 2.5-3cm below my belt (around 1-1.5inches) so I'd love any feedback on the fit! I love the weight and hairiness of the fabric and also appreciate that Inoue finds it is one of their more accurate repro fabrics to its respective era...can't wait to see how it fades!

As the 20's fabric is prone to shrinkage (according the nice people at TCB, whom I ordered from and were also very helpful over instagram via sizing), below are my experiences with movement after a warm wash and 30 minutes in the tumble dryer:

PRE-WASH

Shoulder width - 49 (-1 from TCB measurements)

Chest width - 53.5 ( = TCB measurements)

Length - 63.5 (+1 TCB measurements)

Sleeve length - 62 (-1 TCB measurements)

POST-WASH

Shoulder width - 48

Chest width - 52

Length - 62

Sleeve length - 62

 

Onto the Baker pant - I picked these up as I saw them posted a couple times here as well, and they seemed like a great idea having spent the last year with my legs swathed exclusively in denim. I got them in a size L with a waist size that hovers around 30-31 (although I had not experienced anything quite as high a rise as these yet so I was thankful for the wiggle room the side tabs allowed for). I wanted to wear these with the side adjuster tabs both buttoned as the fabric sticks out otherwise and in case I teeter into the dirty side of bulking -- the measurement guide on Bears was very accurate. They are light and very roomy in the thighs and as I am on the shorter side the taper that TCB has added seems less pronounced when wearing on my body. Lovely texture and immediately soft to wear with what I think is quite a reasonable price tag. 

Please excuse the Muji house slippers in the photos!

 

Edited November 2 by Thicolas Rage

[Geeman]

Jacket fit is fine mate

[AlientoyWorkmachine]

I’m roughly your height, with close chest measurements, though 10kg lighter. 
Anyways, you’re running into the problem a lot of us run into in that the chest/shoulders are too limiting for a given size that has more appropriate sleeve and body lengths, and I think you’ve even got to deal with this issue a good bit more than I do. For me it tends to be shoulders/back that make a problem first (I’m more a puller than a pusher). This is to say, given your build, this is likely the smallest size you could have gotten that would actually be wearable for you. 
 

I see what you mean about the length, and there is a way these jackets are worn where a more cropped look is desired. But that’s just one way. The way you’re wearing it is another great way. It’s a fit that works nicely. Is it the fit? No such thing! But it will be even better and fit even more nicely the more you wear it. A good time to remind the beauty of denim workwear is that fit is flexible. 
 

There’s rarely a perfect solution, which is part of why I now own a lot of denim jackets in different cuts! I will say, though I don’t own a TCB 20s, my Freewheelers ‘22 I think is in my top 3, in part because of its versatility. It’s a Goldilocks jacket - a slightly long but not much, roomy but not too much. 

[Thicolas Rage]

2 hours ago, AlientoyWorkmachine said:

I’m roughly your height, with close chest measurements, though 10kg lighter. 
Anyways, you’re running into the problem a lot of us run into in that the chest/shoulders are too limiting for a given size that has more appropriate sleeve and body lengths, and I think you’ve even got to deal with this issue a good bit more than I do. For me it tends to be shoulders/back that make a problem first (I’m more a puller than a pusher). This is to say, given your build, this is likely the smallest size you could have gotten that would actually be wearable for you. 
 

I see what you mean about the length, and there is a way these jackets are worn where a more cropped look is desired. But that’s just one way. The way you’re wearing it is another great way. It’s a fit that works nicely. Is it the fit? No such thing! But it will be even better and fit even more nicely the more you wear it. A good time to remind the beauty of denim workwear is that fit is flexible. 
 

There’s rarely a perfect solution, which is part of why I now own a lot of denim jackets in different cuts! I will say, though I don’t own a TCB 20s, my Freewheelers ‘22 I think is in my top 3, in part because of its versatility. It’s a Goldilocks jacket - a slightly long but not much, roomy but not too much. 

Thanks for the taking time the time to write those kind and very sage words. Given it is my first denim jacket (but likely not last) I absolutely was caught up in making sure it was perfect for every scenario, which included having just the right length. I’m embracing the way this fits on me and its use case as a versatile layering piece for the through the bone winters I get and you are absolutely right that no such perfect fit exists! Plus, it’s a great excuse to get something more cropped and fitted come spring. I hope this jacket ends up with a similar Goldilocks effect to your freewheelers piece  

[blooming]

@Thicolas Rage Perfect fit on both items! We have the same chest, shoulder, and waist measurements, so it's good to know if I get a 20s jacket at some point!

[UkeNo]

Just noticed that some pocket stitches on my 50s jacket are coming away, and wanted to ask people’s opinion…

I bought the jacket in June this year and wanted to know if this is; Normal on this type of pocket/stitching, a QC issue, or no problem and I should just mend or ignore it for now? 
Thoughts appreciated? 
Thanks

 

[rbeck]

Personally wouldn't even think twice about it--it's a low stress area since it's just a pocket flap. There's two nearly full rows of stitching to hold that flap down. Fix it when you've got more than a couple unraveled stitches or fix it now so you never have to think about it again lol.

Looks like the thread got broken on that top row. If you brushed against something I could imagine it breaking like that. 100% cotton stitching is gonna do that. 

[space_cowboy]

Did anyone get their hands on the Black s40's jacket? They sold out in less than a day, but according to IG, Inoue said they have some more fabric on the way...very tempted to pull the trigger when it becomes available again.

[JohnnyD]

40s repaired all over

[ColdsnapBryan]

I'm curious about the small waist on TCB jeans, like the 50s jeans. Is this a vintage detail or something adopted to fit the body type of the Japanese market?

[willi]

27 minutes ago, ColdsnapBryan said:

I'm curious about the small waist on TCB jeans, like the 50s jeans. Is this a vintage detail or something adopted to fit the body type of the Japanese market?

It's just a Japanese market thing. 50s are the smallest relative to the tag. Their more recent models fit closer to tag size.

[Maynard Friedman]

I bought a pair of raw TCB 50s about 10 years ago but sold them some years later, still raw and unworn as the hems were too wide for my taste. They were a size 32 and the waist measured 34”, similar to most other size 32s I’ve bought in Japanese repro brands. Perhaps this was an anomaly or maybe the narrower waist is a more recent thing?

[willi]

Surprise delivery of the new late 40s jeans today. This is a straightforward straight leg, high rise fit that's going to check a lot of people's boxes. I took a size 36 on these which is 1 size up from my typical TCB size, I'd say these come up slim relative to the tag size.

[NilsLW]

Wow that’s a great fit. Looks better than their old 40s fit imo, less flat in the butt

[Alec Leamas]

Yes @willi they look awesome! Didn't need the reminder that I wanted a pair though!

Still never really nailed down my ideal WW2 era pair 

[willi]

It seems like a really good jean, especially for folks who are turned off by usual TCB funkiness and just want something that looks classic and flattering. Almost doesn't feel like a TCB it's so straightforward, like TCB produced something for Warehouse. Pocket bags feel thin is the only caveat I'm noticing so far. I'm not sure if I love them yet because I like the weird stuff, but if I was tempted to retire from this hobby and walk away with 1 pair this would be a reasonable place to get off the train.