TCB

[FreeCharlesManson]

maybe more appropriate for the long dead denim repair thread but here are my 20's after some repair.

I tried to repair them slightly last summer when the holes first started to get big. but it was a kinda sashiko hand stick repair and i'm no professional, plus a couple months of bike riding thrashed the already damaged jeans. This summer having access to a sewing machine and large scraps of denim i wanted to fix up my favourite jeans, started by removing the old patch and then ripping up the back seem which connects the two leg panels and then ripped up the inside leg seam for better access. the idea was basically de-construct and re-construct the jeans with more denim to reinforce the weak areas.

I got my mum to help me with the the complex jobs like properly sewing on the patches so they wouldn't bulge and re- sewing the seams that i ripped up to get access to the denim. I basically only sewed some extra reinforcement on the patch so the old holes would lay flat and hopefully not pull apart any more. It likely isn't a re-production accurate sewing job regarding thread colour and technique but that's the real coal miner spirit isn't it? wear and re-pair. 

Hopefully i'll get another year or so before i need to do any major repairs. there's still a bunch of tiny holes and threadbare areas which may open up. 

I'll post fade updates soon but today i was doing some gardening and i think i accidentally rubbed poop on my jeans instead of mud so back in the wash they went.

 

 

 

[aho]

Gah....really want in on the full tux but will likely only be getting the jeans, though this is pretty much the exact jacket I've been waiting for 

[Graytrain]

6 minutes ago, aho said:

Gah....really want in on the full tux but will likely only be getting the jeans, though this is pretty much the exact jacket I've been waiting for 

Same here. The only one to battle this would maybe be the "one piece of rock" from CSF. And I'm not waitin around for that or paying that price. This is THE WWII type 1. 

[volvo240thebest]

11 hours ago, Capsicum Fried Meat said:

@volvo240thebest Kindly pls ask Ryo to double check the fabric used the watch/coin pocket on the sample pair. The fabric used should be horizontal instead of vertical used on most of the jeans. I can't see clealy from the front pic. 

Plus, what's the intension from hajime for using 14oz istead of original 12oz fabric. Thanks.

correctly done.

from Ryo

Of course we took the scientific approach to the fabric of the vintage.
After the extensive analysis done by the professionals, the fabric is expected to have been 14 oz when it was in a new state.
TCB does things right as much as we can.

 

[Capsicum Fried Meat]

Superb pro

[SLAB]

it's decided; I'm going full tux also!

[volvo240thebest]

16 hours ago, Capsicum Fried Meat said:

Bear in mind the rise will be lengthened on the final product if the jeans wore in the pics are the first sample showed in the insta live.

 

16 hours ago, julian-wolf said:

^ Really hoping that this is the case

Just to clarify on this, I confirm that the fit pics were taken with a new sample, made with the finalized cut.
I would appreciate everybody to stop speculate about rise too high/small jackets too long/short. Let's wait and see the sizing charts. 
The product is now finalized, our community's constructive inputs were listened, but at the end of the day Hajime has his vision which must be respected. He does what he likes and sometimes - as I've already said many times in the past - what he likes it's not always exactly what our niche geek market wants. This is something I love about Hajime and Tcb, it speaks volumes about his integrity. Also, on the subject of jacket length and rises, the feedback he gets from Japan it's different.

It's 100% impossible to make everyone happy, that's why there are other repro brands that make rises higher/jackets shorter etc etc.

 

[Hopethisoneisnttaken]

11 hours ago, bartlebyyphonics said:

now

that's

an entrance

hiya!

[collective rolling up of sleeves... ]

good work sir!

 

11 hours ago, volvo240thebest said:

Welcome aboard!

No one took that user name, and the 20s are grail worthy. Welcome!

Haha. Thank you both! 
 

I was just at a point of considering getting a second pair of the 20s or the catboy jeans. Seems like this contest will solve that problem. 

[shredwin_206]

RISE will be the deciding factor on whether I join or not  

awaiting measurements 

[darkstar73]

hey all! does anyone have the cat light chambray shirt? if so, do you like it? looking to pick one up to pair with my 50’s and new 30’s olive cap (which is coming this week) 

[cottonskinblues]

43 minutes ago, darkstar73 said:

hey all! does anyone have the cat light chambray shirt? if so, do you like it? looking to pick one up to pair with my 50’s and new 30’s olive cap (which is coming this week) 

I got it. The fabric is light, kinda stretchy. The SPI count is larger than my Warehouse chambray and the buttons are more loosely threaded. With that said, I like to wear it when it is hotter and maybe have the sleeves and front unbuttoned. The green tacks are a nice touch. 

[not too tight]

I'm super excited about this contest. I loved my contest 20s but after like 8 months I developed an intense wedgie over time from washing and sadly had to stop wearing them.

Was there a list I'm supposed to sign up on for just post my interest? I showed my wife already to break the ice that I'm buying more denim. 

[thedapperdane]

18 hours ago, volvo240thebest said:

 

Just to clarify on this, I confirm that the fit pics were taken with a new sample, made with the finalized cut.
I would appreciate everybody to stop speculate about rise too high/small jackets too long/short. Let's wait and see the sizing charts. 
The product is now finalized, our community's constructive inputs were listened, but at the end of the day Hajime has his vision which must be respected. He does what he likes and sometimes - as I've already said many times in the past - what he likes it's not always exactly what our niche geek market wants. This is something I love about Hajime and Tcb, it speaks volumes about his integrity. Also, on the subject of jacket length and rises, the feedback he gets from Japan it's different.

It's 100% impossible to make everyone happy, that's why there are other repro brands that make rises higher/jackets shorter etc etc.

 

I love the jacket length. The rise of the jeans look perfect. I'm 52 years old 179cm 75 kg I could probably be your dad - shut up now and order you're wasting precious braincells. 

Edited June 17, 2020 by thedapperdane
misspelling

[volvo240thebest]

morning beautiful people

update: Tcb asked to have a couple more days to set up sizing charts and clarifications on how measurements are taken. They have prepared a blurb with the description of the jeans, jacket and fabric used, which I should receive soon and save for the final contest thread.

Meanwhile a couple more fit pics, to whet the appetite and hopefully not to stir useless discussion. Caveat: the model wears a 34 here but usually size up to the next size. They didn't have the right size ready in the first samples so they just found the person in the staff that fit the jeans better.

 

 

 

[Denimstoyevsky]

Just bought a pair of TCB 50s from Second Sunrise in Sweden, but unfortunately they are too small for me. 

Size 31 hemmed to 80cm. Looking to sell them to someone in Europe for a good price. 

Dm if interested. Thank you!

[edmond]

can they make the yoke higher?

[Topgearskin]

I'm all in for the two piece. Look forward to detail from TCb about the fabric shrink. My TCB20s contest jeans are perfect in terms of cut and fit, and happily the fabric shrank like mad allowing beautiful roping on all the seams. Conversely I bought the same size tcb60s and they don't really work for me (and are weirdly (imho) wider than my 20s) 

I'm hoping the cut is narrower than the 20s but with a higher top block than the 60s. But I trust that they'll be a great cut from the video work so far.

If anyone has put on a few lbs (and were already on the "husky" side) during lockdown and wants to buy my unwashed raw tcb 60s. They're the 40w version.....

Before you laugh I wear a 36w in the vanity sized LVC...

My 40w 20s are comparable to 36w lvc, the 60s are very roomy now I've lost some weight

Edited June 17, 2020 by Topgearskin
Spelling mistake f45ing autocorrect

[Paul T]

Looking great. Thanks for all this, Volvo.

I especially love the super-pale stitching of Levi's from this era and look forward to wearing them.

Do you have a photo of the 'stagger' - the bottom of the V of the yoke - on the vintage pair?

It's a constructional detail that wasn't quite right on the 50s I think (only matters to freaks like me, my 555 LVC had the same error). Levi's themselves did change construction quite randomly, the 40s was a period when it moved from one style (parallel lines of stitching line up, as one the repro pair here) to another (the right hand parallel lines are slightly higher, which makes the yoke effectively more symmetrical, as on post 47 Levi's) and I'd be interested to see what's on the reference pair .

[volvo240thebest]

58 minutes ago, edmond said:

can they make the yoke higher?

no, but you can get a pair of warehouse instead with the yoke much higher, perhaps too high.

[volvo240thebest]

23 minutes ago, Paul T said:

Looking great. Thanks for all this, Volvo.

I especially love the super-pale stitching of Levi's from this era and look forward to wearing them.

Do you have a photo of the 'stagger' - the bottom of the V of the yoke - on the vintage pair?

It's a constructional detail that wasn't quite right on the 50s I think (only matters to freaks like me, my 555 LVC had the same error). Levi's themselves did change construction quite randomly, the 40s was a period when it moved from one style (parallel lines of stitching line up, as one the repro pair here) to another (the right hand parallel lines are slightly higher, which makes the yoke effectively more symmetrical, as on post 47 Levi's) and I'd be interested to see what's on the reference pair .

we discussed about the back yoke and "stagger" in the video chat with Ryo and Hajime. the back yoke is straight with little to none stagger. Hajime bought one pair of S501XX to copy and while he was buying he had access to 3 other pairs, none of them had the infamous "stagger". [edit] if you have the patience to watch through the vid the back yoke of the original is shown.

Edited June 17, 2020 by volvo240thebest

[Josh'N'Roll]

59 minutes ago, Paul T said:

Looking great. Thanks for all this, Volvo.

I especially love the super-pale stitching of Levi's from this era and look forward to wearing them.

Do you have a photo of the 'stagger' - the bottom of the V of the yoke - on the vintage pair?

It's a constructional detail that wasn't quite right on the 50s I think (only matters to freaks like me, my 555 LVC had the same error). Levi's themselves did change construction quite randomly, the 40s was a period when it moved from one style (parallel lines of stitching line up, as one the repro pair here) to another (the right hand parallel lines are slightly higher, which makes the yoke effectively more symmetrical, as on post 47 Levi's) and I'd be interested to see what's on the reference pair .

Yoke discussion starts at 23:45 of the video.

[nycsurfer530]

3 hours ago, volvo240thebest said:

 

Meanwhile a couple more fit pics, to whet the appetite and hopefully not to stir useless discussion. Caveat: the model wears a 34 here but usually size up to the next size. They didn't have the right size ready in the first samples so they just found the person in the staff that fit the jeans better.

Ah makes sense- I thought they looked a little snug by TCB standards. Good to see how they look sized down one! Additionally, the model looks like he could size down to a 42 jacket easily and still have room 

Edited June 17, 2020 by nycsurfer530

[volvo240thebest]

1 hour ago, nycsurfer530 said:

Ah makes sense- I thought they looked a little snug by TCB standards. Good to see how they look sized down one! Additionally, the model looks like he could size down to a 42 jacket easily and still have room 

Agree on the jacket! Japanese sizing follows different rules. I also find funny when I see the JP crew wearing the oversize jackets with the rolled up sleeves!

Edited June 17, 2020 by volvo240thebest

[Hopethisoneisnttaken]

38 minutes ago, volvo240thebest said:

Agree on the jacket! Japanese sizing follows different rules. I also find funny when I see the JP crew wearing the oversize jackets with the rolled up sleeves!

I find it funny as well but seems like the standard in Japan to wear it oversized because it’s workwear. I got my chore coat from tcb with the same recommendation from ryo(were the same top size) and I think I could’ve gone a size down. Oh well, maybe on the next one. I still like the chore coat a lot even though it’s a bit big. 

[volvo240thebest]

 

 

same here I have similar height weight ratio as him and wear one size down on all tops. I've asked about the jacket and he says to size it up to a 44, he thinks it's better. I told him I will look at the chart and decide if he's right or not. 30s 50s 60s jacket all fit me well with a 42.

Edited June 17, 2020 by volvo240thebest

[aho]

+1 on sizing up for me, comfort is king 

[Spiraltoy]

Does anyone know how the one wash wash jeans are handled, like at which temp they are washed and if they’re tumble or line dried or is this a trade secret? 
will we get to choose raw or one wash for the comp?

[volvo240thebest]

Just now, Spiraltoy said:

Does anyone know how the one wash wash jeans are handled, like at which temp they are washed and if they’re tumble or line dried or is this a trade secret? 
will we get to choose raw or one wash for the comp?

You can choose either one wash or raw. Generally speaking my raw pairs of 50s and 60s reached one wash measurements with a couple washes.

[edmond]

13 hours ago, volvo240thebest said:

no, but you can get a pair of warehouse instead with the yoke much higher, perhaps too high.

BOOHOOHOOO

[BionicEye]

@volvo240thebest which size will ryo and you wear in the contest denim