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Levi's Vintage Clothing

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12 hours ago, Cucoo said:

Regarding my 1976 sizing problems: Cultizm replied that while most LVC nowadays shrink to tag size the 76 does not and is indeed almost too small when raw, people need to size up one or even two in their experience. Maybe there are two versions of the jeans or newer runs are sized differently? This is quite maddening...

Would be interesting to compare to a 76 bought from Levi's directly, curious what b_f's findings will be. 

Ahhh, I see. It would be weird if LVC decided to have two versions when the '76 cut is barely a year old. Maybe it's just that different batches have been under/oversized, which is a quality control issue (I guess). @dealingwithit seems to have purchased a 32/34 as well, and he said he'll be posting his pre/post-wash measurements in the near future. I'm curious to see if his pair starts out at around 33.5" like Maynard's and mine. I guess we'll all have to be a little cautious when giving sizing advice for LVC jeans...

In terms of the other pairs you've purchased, I have a feeling your '47s in a size 30 will be pretty tight. I have a size 31 in the '47s and '76s, and I can no longer wear my '47s because they're nutcracker-tight à la @jeffrx. Not too sure about the '66s though because my '66s are sized-up for comfort (and for the potential fat stages of my life).

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I'm returning the 76 as we speak and ordered another 30 and a 31 from Levi's (25% code still works), will report back with measurements also. 

And yeah I have a feeling both the 47 and 66 might turn out too small too, but it'll give me a chance to look at the denim at least to decide if they even interest me ;)

(got the Tcb 20s incoming also, will be standing Knee deep in five BNWT pairs this week :D) 

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8 hours ago, Cucoo said:

 (25% code still works),

What is that code and which site is it for please?

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12 minutes ago, JDelage said:

What is that code and which site is it for please?

LEVIS150S25MVC for 25% off, works at least on the European Levi's site

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Ah, got it. Not valid in the US.

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So my 3 pairs arrived and guess what? LVC's sizing inconsistency is up and running. 

34x34 measures 34" x 33.75"

34x36 measures 34" x 36"

36x36 measures 36" x 36"

 

Guess I'll keep the 36x36. Machine wash and dryer will shrink them down enough eh? The waist with 34" is already too snug raw. Don't wanna shrink and stretch beyond raw measurements. 36" Inseam is probably too long but either I cuff or get them hemmed. The hem width is quite wide.

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I just unearthed a pair of raw, NWT 1947s from my closet tagged 36x38 measuring 35x37 raw. The button is embossed with 4170, and the jeans were made in USA. The label has a stick-on which reads CA00342 and an 09 at the end of the verbiage which I assume means made in 2009. The denim is the heaviest I have encountered through many pairs of 47s. Will someone please tell me the factory where these were made? thanks

IMG_0409.thumb.JPG.5a30cc30b50d660ace2dca5f63432a52.JPG

Edited by lance

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^ Thanks for the lead, b_F, I googled it and it’s Taylor Togs in N. Carolina! Do you remember them being somewhat heavier than a typical pair of 47s?

Edit I was just thinking, maybe I’m just not used to the amount of starch in Levi’s raw denim, it’s been a while. You know,  no matter how many pairs of jeans I have from other makers (way too many!), there is something special, something visceral about a pair of raw Levi’s!!

Edited by lance

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Right, so my two pairs raw (both tag size 32):

1976 = 32.6 inch waist

1966 = 33 inch waist

Will be interesting to see @dealingwithit post soak measurements on the 1976. I did not plan to wear mine for a long long while, so was going to leave it NWT, but tempted to soak them in the name of science

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I get the feeling sizing up just one size in the 76 might not be enough with those current runs :( mine should arrive Tuesday. 

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7 hours ago, dealingwithit said:

Post hot soak and dryer:

Waist: 30”

Length: 31”

Pics of the dryer, let’s see how blue the drum is :D

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I think some of these sizing variations could be down to individual differences in measuring and even interpretations of the BiG method. For example I hold the waistband flat on a surface with the jeans done up, align front and back completely level and pull both sides hard so they are taut with no give before measuring - that anomalous third hand is really useful here! Someone else could possibly measure them 0.5-1" less than I do. I use the same principle with all my measurements, which probably gives the maximum dimensions possible.

If this is not the explanation, then it must be down to different production runs. I don't think there could be that much variation within runs.

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I measure the same way as you Maynard. The good old BiG method. But I just align the waistband and don't pull very hard. So a difference of 0.5" in comparison with your measurements is very well possible. 

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I've aligned the waist, just didn't pull that hard, so should still have measured more than 38cm if they were over tag size raw... I also tried them on briefly and the waist was pretty spot on, if not a bit tight even. They felt like a freshly washed pair that needs half an hour of wear to stretch back to perfect again. 

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Re-measured the 36x36 the Maynard-style and it came close to 37".

I machine washed them at 60 °C, followed by a 30 minutes trip through the dryer (inclusive those sexy dryer fades) and the waist is now at 34.5" and the inseam 33.4".
I'm quite sure not all shrinkage have been taken care of but this will happen with future washes I assume.

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I have two pairs of 76s, both size 36X34. The NWT pair and the older pair (which I’ve worn almost daily since their last wash over a month ago) both measure right at 37”. The older pair is going on the wash now, and I expect them to be around 35.5” post wash.

 

324AD6A6-ECA0-47FF-ADF4-F8E24091934F.jpeg

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On 11/3/2017 at 4:00 PM, HAZARDkid said:

My raw '55 501xx's 34x32 from ENDclothing measure:

Waist: 35"

Front Rise: 13"

Back Rise: 17"

Thigh: ~13-13.25" depending on how you angle the measuring tape

Knee: 10" not sure if anyone even measures this part anymore.

Inseam: 31.5"

Leg opening: ~8.5-8.75"

Button code 4420 if that helps anything.

I also have a pair in the same size coming from Cultizm but I don't expect those to arrive for a a couple weeks, will report the specs on those when they do arrive. Which ever one has the bigger waist size will be my contest pair.

Kind of surprised by the leg opening, thought it would be a bit wider but it actually works better for me. Maybe it's wider on the longer inseams?

Update after cold wash and hang dry

Waist: 33"

Inseam: ~28.75"

Leg opening: 8"

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That’s over 8% in the inseam, impressive for a cold wash

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^was more surprised at the leg opening. used an industrial coin op laundry machine if anyone is wondering

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On 05/11/2017 at 5:51 PM, beautiful_FrEaK said:

Re-measured the 36x36 the Maynard-style and it came close to 37".

I machine washed them at 60 °C, followed by a 30 minutes trip through the dryer (inclusive those sexy dryer fades) and the waist is now at 34.5" and the inseam 33.4".
I'm quite sure not all shrinkage have been taken care of but this will happen with future washes I assume.

What are the hems measuring post wash. Looking at your measurements I'm going for a 36 waist now not the 34 - cheers B_f

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@jewellbenThe hem is nearly exactly at 8". Still the leg feels rather big. Knee is quite wide but I would need to re-measure the pair.

 

With Paul being so active these days I hope he can step in and confirm.

I see more and more conspiracy (ok, only on reddit) theories saying LVC doesn’t use White Oak Cone denim because they don’t explicitly write that on the tags or anywhere else. Only that they write: “Made of Cone Denim”. So something along the line of the denim being from Cone which has its headquarters in North Carolina but the denim itself could still be from their Chinese or Mexican mills. Do their other sites have shuttle looms at all? Paul do you know more?
I remember you saying that all LVC denim for the rigid models if it is from Cone it is also from White Oak.

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I'm not sure that has any substance b_F but may be worth reposting on the Cone thread.

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2 hours ago, beautiful_FrEaK said:

@jewellbenThe hem is nearly exactly at 8". Still the leg feels rather big. Knee is quite wide but I would need to re-measure the pair.

 

With Paul being so active these days I hope he can step in and confirm.

I see more and more conspiracy (ok, only on reddit) theories saying LVC doesn’t use White Oak Cone denim because they don’t explicitly write that on the tags or anywhere else. Only that they write: “Made of Cone Denim”. So something along the line of the denim being from Cone which has its headquarters in North Carolina but the denim itself could still be from their Chinese or Mexican mills. Do their other sites have shuttle looms at all? Paul do you know more?
I remember you saying that all LVC denim for the rigid models if it is from Cone it is also from White Oak.

At present all the Draper looms are in Greensboro so yes, that is a conspiracy theory.

It might well be that the yarn is made in Mexico or elsewhere; it's vaguely possible this is why, on the current natural indigo jeans, the label says "made in the US of imported fabric." The denim was definitely loomed at White Oak (and dyed using indigo from Tennessee) but they're either using a generic label to save hassle, or perhaps the yarn was made in an offshore Cone plant (although I don't know that). That said, it's really worth pointing out that LVC and COne design every yarn from scratch as opposed to buying it in from someone else (which all other mills except Kurabo do).

 

Edited by Paul T

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Reddit is the worst place for information on denim stuff. It’s the blind leading the blind over there. 

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