The Flat Head

[goodrain 1,403]

I can see that dude Jdlange in it

[Cold Summer 4,202]

Let’s bump this thread with something I don’t think has ever been posted here: a custom Stockburg key holder. 
 

I always loved the look of these things, but the high price (thanks to the giant, hand-carved silver concho) prevented me from buying one up until now. The quality of materials and construction is top notch, as you'd expect from Flat Head. Compared to earlier versions of these that I handled almost a decade ago when I worked for FH, this one has a high quality hook on it. This ought to age quite nicely with a bit of wear.

The jeans (my 3005XXX) are almost at 14 months of real wear time. I'll probably wash them next week and doubt I'll wear them again for a while, but I'll take some updated pictures before stashing them away for the future.

Edited March 25, 2022 by Cold Summer

[unders 5,646]

That’s a beast!

[persco_ 633]

3 hours ago, Cold Summer said:

The jeans (my 3005XXX) are almost at 14 months of real wear time. I'll probably wash them next week and doubt I'll wear them again for a while, but I'll take some updated pictures before stashing them away for the future.

The jeans are looking amazing...

[mondo 1,905]

^ they are looking great.. instant nostalgia for my pairs, which I probably fit into again so should resurrect. I've actually got a 6002-A type II jacket coming in; for all I know it's @Broark's old one.. not too many of those floating around in a 44.. looks to be new, though, and Corlection (my local) did carry them a couple of years back

[Signet 351]

currently wearing a 3005  these are really nice 

 

[mpukas 2,386]

Copped FN3009 size 36, one wash, from 2nd. Been wanting a pair for years. Had copped size 34 previously, but were too small in this cut. This 36 is a little roomier than I prefer, and a 35 would be ideal if they made it. Still, I think this could be the best fitting pair I've ever had! I'm really impressed with how well they fit, and how comfortable they are, without being baggy. This is about as close to my ideal fit as I've had. And the denim - now I get it. These are the first pair of TFH jeans I own. I have a couple pairs of RJB, that use a different denim, which is amazing. I actually think I prefer this denim - it's their Pioneer Denim, yes? Just the right combo of soft hand, rigid, rugged, refined, textured, depth of color. 

But the front pockets are terrible. I knew they'd be bad, and they're actually even worse than I expected. The front belt loops are too far apart from the center line, and inside edge of the pockets is in large part determined by the placement of the belts loops. Also, the height of the waist band is rather short, and this affects the pocket openings. A tall belt cuts off the top part of the pocket opening. Little details like this could easily be addressed in the pattern, without changing the overall cut and aesthetic. Regardless, very happy with this pair!!! 

[beautiful_FrEaK 1,676,076]

Really looks like a perfect fit!

[Cold Summer 4,202]

Great fit! They look nice. 

[Cold Summer 4,202]

I came across a great-looking pair of pre-lawsuit 3005xx on Grailed that I just had to share here. To me, this is pretty much the ideal fade.

[reallypeacedoff 258,493]

Picked up my BSPs that have been sitting in SELA's window for the last 3 years (I think, man time flies). Though it was a good opportunity for some more pictures. Love how one of the buttons was coming out of its pressing a bit. I also love how the arcuate on the left pocket has actually gone, thread-wise, but the remnants of color are still there. originally I did start writing down Soaks and Washes but after a while, I was doing so many, didn't really matter. The chain stitching is "bloating" out of the waistband too.

Edited September 16, 2022 by reallypeacedoff

[tooth 105]

That gradation from top to bottom is pretty wild. Nice.

[1fookntitefd 723]

Need some sizing advice. I’m looking to potentially proxy a pair of jdm flathead 3009 but after google translating the product description on the website it says that these jeans have already undergone a wash process? I thought all flathead jeans were non wash and unsanforized? At any rate does anyone know if I should I still be sizing based on the raw measurements I see on the Franklin and Poe, rivet and hide, self edge websites? Does anyone have experience buying a jdm pair and is sizing any different than the international markets?

[mpukas 2,386]

My pair of 3009 from 2nd are one-wash. They shrink a little with a wash, and then stretch out. No significant shrinkage from when OW new. I usually wear a 34 in most pairs, but in this cut the 34 were very snug. I sized up to a 36, which are a bit loose. A 35 would be ideal for me, but not offered. 

I think it depends on the seller as to whether the jeans for sale are raw or OW. Just guessing, but unless a non-JP seller specifically states in the product listing they are either raw or OW, they're most likely OW. I think OW is a new direction for international sellers to minimize sizing errors/confusion. 

[dada mafiosi 235]

On 4/16/2018 at 1:47 AM, MasonAlexander said:

My Flat Head 7001.

Ive had this shirt for about a year and a half or so, and wore it pretty often for the first year or so, but then I grew to really dislike “western” shirt details on shirts, so it mostly sat in my closet for 6 months with only the occasionally wear. While unpacking after a move this last week I pulled it out and realised “hey! This thing is gorgeous!”.  I honestly did not realise that it had faded and evolved even this much, but im very pleased with wear it is right now

 

(Did my very best to make all of the colors and contrast in these photos, and it is pretty true with the exception of a few of the photos that were too bright and I couldnt manage to fix)

this Flat Head shirt is no doubt produces excellent results

Edited October 15, 2022 by dada mafiosi

[cause4pause 139]

Hey folks, does anyone have experience with the 18oz denim, or the 8XXX series? How does shrink and stretch compare to the 14oz 3XXX and 16oz 1XXX series? Thanks. 

[Lazerr 176]

@cause4pause Had both the 8002 and the 3002 in a size 36 and for the most part, all the measurements were similar. The 8002 being heavier denim did shrink a tad more for me, but the fabric is still similar to the 14oz and stretched to what it was prior. I don't have either anymore so I can't really give you much update on how they are after a few years. 

[mpukas 2,386]

@cause4pause I have the 18oz 8002 size 34 from SE. LOVE TFH 18oz denim. It's so burly and intense. The cut is way too slim & tight for me, so I don't wear them. I have 3009 size 36 which is a much looser size and more comfortable fit on me. I've found the 14oz denim shrinks and stretches a bit more than the 18oz. Once the 18oz shrunk, it didn't stretch out quite as much as the 14oz does. 

[cause4pause 139]

On 11/2/2022 at 8:43 AM, Lazerr said:

@cause4pause Had both the 8002 and the 3002 in a size 36 and for the most part, all the measurements were similar. The 8002 being heavier denim did shrink a tad more for me, but the fabric is still similar to the 14oz and stretched to what it was prior. I don't have either anymore so I can't really give you much update on how they are after a few years. 

 

On 11/4/2022 at 4:11 AM, mpukas said:

@cause4pause I have the 18oz 8002 size 34 from SE. LOVE TFH 18oz denim. It's so burly and intense. The cut is way too slim & tight for me, so I don't wear them. I have 3009 size 36 which is a much looser size and more comfortable fit on me. I've found the 14oz denim shrinks and stretches a bit more than the 18oz. Once the 18oz shrunk, it didn't stretch out quite as much as the 14oz does. 

Sorry about getting back here late. Thanks for both of your comments and advise. I asked since there was a 8005 available locally. I thought these were a looser fit than the 8009 and 8002, but that thigh measurement really turned out far narrower than expected. Thinking I might need to view those and measure it myself. If they shrink anything like the 14oz then it also means the waist will probably lose 3 inches, which is not a deal breaker provided they come back with 2 inches or so of stretch.

[mpukas 2,386]

I don't have, nor have tried on, the xx05 cut, but from what I've read here from other members and comparing measurements from various sites, the xx05 cut has slightly slimmer thighs than the xx09 cut. 

[cause4pause 139]

As a follow-up to the previous query, I decided to buy those jeans, and putting up some photos here in case anyone knows much about them. They look like a rather old, deadstock pair. Interesting features like a cinch back, triple-needle (?) chainstitching for the yoke and entirety of the outseam and inseam (also felled). Chambray pocket bags. Only the top fly button is branded on both sides. The other 4 are donut buttons with a branded back. Exposed back pocket rivets and a pen pocket.

Low-rise, true slim-straight fit with about 8.5" leg openings and a 36" inseam when raw. Some listings I've seen reference 18oz natural indigo fabric, but I wouldn't have a clue if that's true. They legit feel like armor at the moment, and for the first time in my denim career, I am NOT looking forward to breaking these things in. I might even need to lose a bit of weight as they could be a tough fit after shrink. They are pretty awesome however. I miss my old Flat Head 1002 after growing out of them. And this just reminds me of those. The fabric looks rather interesting, and the whole pair has a high-end feel.

 

[beautiful_FrEaK 1,676,076]

Never mind

Edited November 29, 2022 by beautiful_FrEaK

[mpukas 2,386]

@cause4pause those are not the typical xx05 cut that I, and probably most folks here, would think of. I'm not a TFH historian, and don't anything of that model. I suspect those to be a rare pair. No idea if that 18oz denim is the same as the 18oz in the 8002 I have from a couple years ago. Nice score, and enjoy!

[Cold Summer 4,202]

That... is pretty fascinating. Never saw that model before, it doesn't follow the present TFH naming convention for what an 8005A should be (3005s with 18 oz, natural indigo mix fabric.) But I also don't think they're a super early model because they use the arcs that appeared from 2007~2008 onward. I think this might be a special collab pair or some sort of sample, as I don't recall any TFH jeans with this sort of jean work-paint hybrid design.

[cause4pause 139]

11 hours ago, mpukas said:

@cause4pause those are not the typical xx05 cut that I, and probably most folks here, would think of. I'm not a TFH historian, and don't anything of that model. I suspect those to be a rare pair. No idea if that 18oz denim is the same as the 18oz in the 8002 I have from a couple years ago. Nice score, and enjoy!

 

5 hours ago, Cold Summer said:

That... is pretty fascinating. Never saw that model before, it doesn't follow the present TFH naming convention for what an 8005A should be (3005s with 18 oz, natural indigo mix fabric.) But I also don't think they're a super early model because they use the arcs that appeared from 2007~2008 onward. I think this might be a special collab pair or some sort of sample, as I don't recall any TFH jeans with this sort of jean work-paint hybrid design.

Thanks for the opinions. Looks we might never know in its entirety, apart from a guess that they are 18oz. Due to the construction, I also don't see a selvedge line anywhere, except in the front right pocket where the denim joins the pocket bag (but not in the usual spot at the coin pocket opening).

Originally bought these thinking I'd save it for the Indigo Invitational next year. But after seeing them in the flesh, I'm not so sure. Seems a pity to thrash these as quickly as possible in the space of a year, which is what the competition is all about.

[Maynard Friedman 570,905]

I think this mystery pair needs @kiya to chime in and hopefully clarify matters.

[kiya 1,080,205]

7 hours ago, Maynard Friedman said:

I think this mystery pair needs @kiya to chime in and hopefully clarify matters.

This was Flat Head's 8005A jean, originally released in December of 2009.   They were made of a 13.75oz rope dyed indigo denim that was originally developed for Real Japan Blues but the fabric came out lighter in shade than what they wanted RJB jeans to look like so they ended up using the denim to make these 8005A jeans.  They made 300 pairs with 100 pairs of those going to Self Edge.  They were sort of a combination of many different styles of jeans with the buckle-back, workwear style pocket, curved front pockets, etc..

 

[cause4pause 139]

Wow, Kiya, thanks for the details. Mystery solved. So these aren't that old. Also the fabric is not even 14oz yet feels like a monster for stiffness. Maybe I've become weak in my older age. 

[itsbenhere 2,746]

Just got in the new run of their leather jacket. Love the leather and fit! Favorite native check shirt and D105 included. Loving the jeans but unfortunately don't fade 'em like I used to... and really should get them hemmed by now considering theyre like 3 years old..

.

 

 

[Cold Summer 4,202]

Jacket looks awesome Ben, love the fades too. The design of that jacket is much less complex than many we see in the specialty casual wear scene, and not too trim nor too boxy. I feel that TFH's jackets have always been near the top of the heap in terms of quality but in recent years (probably due to the company's various struggles) they've been overlooked in favor of other brands.