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The Flat Head


LFC4ever

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I've had some tremendous finds on Japanese auction and thrift sites, capturing several of my all-time grail Flat Head items recently (most of them at cheapo prices): flannel shirts, western shirts, even a deadstock pair of pin hickory pants; the first of two boxes is on its way, and I'm excited to share. Finding flannels and other items from TFH's heyday, in my size, for low prices, is about as excited as I've ever been about denim-related nerdery.

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On 11/30/2023 at 3:47 PM, Cold Summer said:

I've had some tremendous finds on Japanese auction and thrift sites, capturing several of my all-time grail Flat Head items recently (most of them at cheapo prices): flannel shirts, western shirts, even a deadstock pair of pin hickory pants; the first of two boxes is on its way, and I'm excited to share. Finding flannels and other items from TFH's heyday, in my size, for low prices, is about as excited as I've ever been about denim-related nerdery.

I also just got a haul of great TFH items for very cheap off of Japanese auction sites. Grabbed a great souvenir jacket for my wife as a present that I'm very excited about. 

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30 minutes ago, Cold Summer said:

Killer haul! In addition to goodies for myself, I got shirts or sweats for my wife, dad, brothers, and their wives. It’s gonna be the best pile of Christmas presents I’ve ever given. 

Feels like that's the best way to get other people to appreciate the hobby. Just feeling the fabric, most people realize these garments are unlike anything they've handled before.

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Yep. And a nice flannel or cozy sweatshirt is accessible in a way that a super crunchy pair of pants you have to shrink to fit and hope it fits good, then wear every day and maybe not wash for a long time... kinda isn't. As much as I love TFH's denim, I feel it's really their shirts where they shine brighter than pretty much anybody else. Proprietary selvedge fabrics in countless awesome patterns, all-cotton stitching, lots of narrow double stitch and single-stitched parts, terrific buttons and hardware: it's all there.

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On 12/3/2023 at 8:25 PM, Cold Summer said:

Yep. And a nice flannel or cozy sweatshirt is accessible in a way that a super crunchy pair of pants you have to shrink to fit and hope it fits good, then wear every day and maybe not wash for a long time... kinda isn't. As much as I love TFH's denim, I feel it's really their shirts where they shine brighter than pretty much anybody else. Proprietary selvedge fabrics in countless awesome patterns, all-cotton stitching, lots of narrow double stitch and single-stitched parts, terrific buttons and hardware: it's all there.

All this. TFH shirts are other level. 

As much of a TFH fan boy as I am, I will say their shirt patterns & sizing vary. Their sleeves are very tight on some. But I can suffer it. The one thing that really does bother me is the cut on the cuff isn't long enough, and I can't double-roll the cuffs back. 

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I'm not a big guy by any stretch but my proportions are not as typical, and it's always seemed to me that TFH shirts would just be unwearable - I need the sleeve and body length of a small/medium and the chest/shoulders of a typical large. It's one reason I favor jumpers/sweatshirts, and can sometimes get by with boxy mediums for jackets if I deal with somewhat snug chest and shoulders but the cut of TFH look to be just look impossible for me - like I'd need to get something sized up so much - if I didn't want that chest popping, pit hugging look - that the sleeves would be comically long.

Is that the wrong impression? 

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The western shirts do tend to be very slim, but the "work" style shirts, less so. TFH westerns taper from the armpits to the hem, but the work-style shirts dont. I'm tall and slim so I like that kind of tapered shirt, though I also have some boxier fitting TFH shirts I enjoy.

If that's your issue with Flat Head, go Sugar Cane/Toyo instead. They make great stuff, often resell for cheap on Japanese sites, and would fit more to your liking. I have the inverse issue with Toyo stuff, to get long enough sleeves, I'd have to size up so much that I'd look like I was wearing a fancy potato sack. 

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I feel like you are describing the fit that TFH excels at. I find TFH shirts to fit slim but favor an athletic build - wide shoulders that taper to a slim waist. Their shirts really are not forgiving if you have a belly or a larger build though.

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Booked flights for a trip to SE Asia, but I have a 10 hour layover in Tokyo on the way there and an 8 hour layover on the way back. Flat Head store in Shibuya is one of the first on my list. Seems like the shop has nothing but great reviews.

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23 hours ago, blooming said:

Booked flights for a trip to SE Asia, but I have a 10 hour layover in Tokyo on the way there and an 8 hour layover on the way back. Flat Head store in Shibuya is one of the first on my list. Seems like the shop has nothing but great reviews.

And then you have FC, Edwin, SDA, Momo, JB, and Tools Infinity (TCB, SC, and Levi's), all within a 20-minute radius. Could visit, peruse, try, and buy within 3 hours easily. You could probably fit Warehouse (Denime) in, too, while you are at it. Max 4 hours. Bears would be a must, in my opinion, but it's a little further out so you might be cutting it slim.

Screenshot2023-12-14at8_01_46AM.thumb.png.e3f648a0a387df0f08f181ac4d799793.png

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2 hours ago, tooth said:

Freewheelers is also very close to Flat Head (and the others @reallypeacedoff mentioned above) in Shibuya… that neighborhood put a hurt on my wallet, but such a great time and experience.

I’m actually glad I didn’t know about FW, my wallet would have obliged, but grudgingly.

SDA is M’arijuan by the way @blooming.

Not sure why I didn’t look up Hinoya but Bears was enough for me. It’s not crazy far but with multiple trains and not sure how early you need to be for the next flight, you could Uber all those locations, not as cheap as the trains but no navigation required. 😎

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5 minutes ago, reallypeacedoff said:

I’m actually glad I didn’t know about FW, my wallet would have obliged, but grudgingly.

SDA is M’arijuan by the way @blooming.

Not sure why I didn’t look up Hinoya but Bears was enough for me. It’s not crazy far but with multiple trains and not sure how early you need to be for the next flight, you could Uber all those locations, not as cheap as the trains but no navigation required. 😎

The first day will be from about 4pm-1:30am, and the way back will be 6am until 4:30pm. I think that gives a nice window to try things that may only be open earlier in the day and also some restaurants/bars that open later. Thanks again for the recs!

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A question to y’all with 3005 experience. What are some tips to sizing them right? A size 36 was about 1.5” too large in the waist and hips. The size 34 fit snug, but comfortable in the waist. Also.. with the massive stock inseam it was impossible to judge the fit. Just looking for some sizing tips. Thanks! 

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IMO, from personal experience from many cuts but not the 3005, it's better to have the waist a little too big and wear a belt to take up the slack than to have the waist fit just right and then the thighs are too tight. 

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On 12/22/2023 at 4:11 PM, mpukas said:

IMO, from personal experience from many cuts but not the 3005, it's better to have the waist a little too big and wear a belt to take up the slack than to have the waist fit just right and then the thighs are too tight. 

Most definitely good advice. It was hard to judge the 3005’s in the store because the inseam was so long. The 34 and 36 both felt roomy in the thigh and rise. Still undecided. 

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