mondo

^ Wholesome! that jacket could not be a better fit

These days I wear frames I can get my prescription lenses into (so, thick acetate, the "McQueen" from Archibald – made in Japan, but prices seem to have gone up recently), but back when I wore contact lenses I found the various military styles from American Optical and/or Randolph Engineering (I think the military contract was taken over from AO by RE) did the job well. Just find a lens size and bridge width that works and away you go. The straight arm option is good if you need to use them with earphones or a watch cap. I figure if they're suitable for pilots and astronauts, they're more than I'll ever need, but they're a bit The Right Stuff for some tastes.

I've only had the TCB contest '40s to evaluate, but I do have many SC pairs – 36" on those TCBs equates to 34" on SC. The high rise on the '40s makes the waistband feel different, but it seems safe to assume TCB end up a size (2") down from tagged size. That was the consensus when selecting size for the contest – the first pair of jeans I'd bought new since 2005, come to think of it.. heh. Since then I've bought a couple more on sale.

I have the SC Type II in a 44 (my usual size) – it's cut long rather than traditional "boxy" fit, but other than that I wouldn't say it was that much roomier than others I have (TFH, LVC and FW). When buttoned, there is no pulling at the pleats, so I could imagine it down a size for a more snug (but not too tight, visually) fit. Pockets are slightly smaller than my other Type IIs though – the flap won't button over an iPhone 5 (tiny by today's standards). Aesthetically, the smaller pockets should be better on jackets sized 40 and below. It's a good jacket, though worn the least of all. Perhaps I just have too many Type IIs.

Many are cold, but few are frozen

I like the Runabout; gusset is inset (getting harder to find these days), but it's not loopwheeled if that's a deciding factor. Buzz Rickson I like for the fit – probably my favourite in this regard – but gusset is now overlocked on top of the existing fabric (apparently this was not always the case); loopwheeled Whitesville (another Toyo sub-brand), nice details (gusset checks out and is made from nice heavy ribbed fabric, as are cuffs and waistband), loopwheeled but rather stiff fabric and sloppy fit if you go for your usual size (I'm generally a 44, but 42 or maybe even 40 would get me closer to the fit I prefer) Studio D'Artisan do one that seems identical to the Whitesville, but the fabric is softer – not sure if mine is the "Suvin Gold" or not. Could just be that I've washed it more than the Whitesville. Nice sweat, fairly sure it's the one worn by Liam Neeson in one of the Taken films (where he's also sporting some tastefully faded Levi's) Cushman – great details, "freedom" sleeves (like a fancy raglan), good gussets front and back, lovely sweat but not so easy to come by Sunray Sportswear – lovely soft loopwheeled fabric, gusset not genuine but develops subtle horizontal ridging after a wash or two. I have two or three of these and they're unsung wardrobe heroes – my 15 y.o. son will always go for them if he needs to borrow something. He likes "blurple" (as he describes the faded Real McCoy's blue), but not to wear. I know RMC are already on the radar, but they are probably my favourite for overall character of the fabric as it ages – the fading and texture elevate them to "favourite denim" status for me. The Ball Park sweats are overkill for life in Australia, but they're built like a brick shithouse and age beautifully... unless there's been a drop in quality... I think mine might be quite old; like most of my purchases, I got it second hand.

Mine just turned 15 – exactly the same shoe size as yours; I had hoped he would stop at 10/11/45 (so he could continue to wear mine), but that wasn't going to happen. He's been steady at that size for a year or so, so maybe that's it for him...

^ @AlientoyWorkmachine, every word of that could be applied to my 129s – particularly regarding repairs. If I'd had a yoke problem on any other pair, I would have assumed it was all over. These, you can have a crack at and it becomes part of the charm. I had set mine aside for a couple of years but was recently pleasantly surprised to find they fit me as I remembered... then I found a new pair I'd had stashed away (lucky eBay find, I think.. unusual here in Australia). Happy days! I, too, would go for a looser fit if I were buying another pair, but I'm larger and heavier – you definitely rock these as they're intended

^ goes well with the Emperor's New Stilettos..

I don't know if the "Greyhound" version differs from their regular U.S.N. chambrays – sounds like the collar might be one area where it does. I have a couple of Buzz chambrays; the collar has never been notably stiff, except possibly when the shirts had that freshly-purchased starchy feel. The only thing I would change about them is that the button holes seem to become loose far more easily than any other shirt I've owned. Buttons often come undone even though they haven't been placed under noticeable strain – i.e., if wearing a sweater, removal might cause a couple of buttons to slip through their holes. The fabric wears more nicely than most, though. More texture, particularly around puckered areas such as cuffs and seams.

hnnn-n-nggg

Ha..! You've no idea what a pleasure it is to read a detailed explanation of just what it is about something that makes someone who is into it so seriously into it. Doesn't matter what it is – reminds me of a conversation the other day with a colleague who was annoyed with some of our students who say they're into Drill, but show no interest in Grime or any of the other factors that gave rise to their genre of choice. Neither of us could understand why anyone would like something without wanting to know more about it, and what its history may have been... (edit: this morning I walked past the remainder table at a favourite bookshop and saw a copy of Inner City Pressure... so my colleague's enthusiasm was enough to make me purchase a history of a subculture I hadn't previously considered. In my feeble mind, there would seem to be some parallels between the mechanism of the single-needle chainstitch machine and the intermittent mechanism of a 16mm film camera, so it wouldn't surprise me if another rabbit-hole awaits there...)

My "super used"-wash Nudie Flare Glenns are on ice waiting for this..

Ha! Yes! I'm not afraid to admit it... on the flip side, I saw a girl at the markets the other day with dark denim jeans (check), hems cut off (hrrm..), one faux turn up (hhhhnggg-g-g)... but.. selvedge visible – ahhhh. Suddenly I'm interested.

yeah, nailed it in my opinion