Tender Co. Denim

[irual]

Tender Floor shirt in Rinse Washed Indigo Chambray Tote Cloth

[JDelage]

Got myself the logwood-overdyed 132 along with the type 743 wool-pattern pullover made out of indigo cotton. I'm very happy with both. The skewing on the pullover is not noticeable and not too visible. It does bleed like crazy though...

 

 

Edited February 4, 2021 by JDelage

[Broark]

I think I'm going to get a pair of logwood dyed 132's later this year, Will's going to notify me once the size 5 is back in stock.

[JDelage]

The denim is quite a bit darker than it looks in the pic. The 132 is a near perfect cut for me. The back rise could be a tad higher.

[persco_]

2 hours ago, JDelage said:

Got myself the logwood-overdyed 132 along with the type 743 wool-pattern pullover made out of indigo cotton. I'm very happy with both. The skewing on the pullover is not noticeable and not too visible. It does bleed like crazy though...

 

Nice. I have 2 pairs of 129s on the way in Unborn and the tan wattle dyed.

[chicote]

I went back here looking for photos of my old 132s, which are sadly lost to the pixel-sands of time, and needed to bring these back with me. The people need to know!!!

On 4/8/2015 at 3:28 PM, rodeo bill said:

Speaking of repairs, here are some lovely pairs just back off to Japan today after a quick trip to the factory for some TLC:

 

 

 

 

 

[bartlebyyphonics]

yup: nothing marbles quite the same...

[rodeo bill]

I just received some photos from a great friend of the brand, and a long-time customer with some photos of his 10oz Cross Weave denim jeans. The fabric is woven in England with an ecru warp and an indigo weft (the same Japanese indigo yarn as used for the standard denim warp). I don't have a pair of these myself and I've not seen a pair worn in, although I've had good reports from a couple of customers. It's quite a soft fabric, but these have faded in really beautifully I think:

[JDelage]

I love mine, but I have not worn them enough. They are a lovely fabric, with a very different feel from traditional denim.

[maharu]

Unborn molleton 130 just in. Wow! Very hard to photo the brushed, a bit fluffy, fabric. Definitely something special!

[rodeo bill]

On 2/22/2021 at 10:15 PM, maharu said:

Unborn molleton 130 just in. Wow! Very hard to photo the brushed, a bit fluffy, fabric. Definitely something special!

Thank you! Sorry to be so slow with this, and I recently put these pictures on Instagram, but in case anyone's interested here is a lovely pair of denim molleton 129s in for some repairs. I'd not seen a pair of these worn in- the softness, especially on the inside, is really remarkable compared to the regular denim. I'd say the wear and fades are a bit softer, too, which makes sense as the fabric isn't as crisp to start with:

[rodeo bill]

Spring is here! At least in the UK, more or less. I'm starting to get some new Weaver's Stock shirts and jackets in, cut from some really special deadstock Northern-Irish-woven linens and linen/cottons. Here are the season photoshoot images, shot on deadstock infrared film in a strong breeze!:

This collection was put together at the beginning of last summer, when everything felt extremely uncertain. My mainline sewing factory was shut down completely, as was my main weaving factory, and I didn't want to commit to making too many new styles for stockists in case I wasn't able to deliver. Hence this Weaver's Stock collection is relatively modest, but I think really makes the most of some truly lovely fabrics. It's all ends-of-rolls, which has caused production headaches of its own, but I'll be getting a few more pieces in in various patterns over the coming weeks.

Alongside that, very thankfully all the people that I work with are safe and well, and more or less returned to normal working. This has given me a bit of mainline production space to catch up on restocks, including jeans (mostly now sold, I'm happy and sorry to say), and a big restock of mainline shirts, mixing previous seasons' styles with different seasons' fabrics and dyes. All going up on the Stores over the next few weeks, and I'll try to get some pictures up here, too!

[sensy]

I really wanted the 10 year anniversary jacket, but didn't pull the trigger before they all sold so I was super happy to find a size 3 at Maritime Antiques. This is me wearing it with logwood 129 and the sidings boots. Sadly I did not wear one of my tender shirts today. 

I also added a piece of the shoelace from the sidings boots as a hanger. 

 

[AlientoyWorkmachine]

Sporting a Tender tux today so thought I would post. William's pieces are some of my favorite out there and these 129s are one of my two main cold season pairs for the past year (the other being a pair of Mister Freedoms). This type 900 also got a fair amount of wear this past season - but not a whole lot to show on either of them yet just because normal activity level (for obvious reasons) hasn't been what it is in normal years.

Also Bill if you're reading - as a photographer I love that you get wacky in the photoshoots for your collections. Fun stuff.  

 

[julian-wolf]

Which 900 is that? Some sort of crossweave? Looks great

[AlientoyWorkmachine]

24 minutes ago, julian-wolf said:

Which 900 is that? Some sort of crossweave? Looks great

Thanks. Yea it's the 19 oz crossweave denim from old north collaboration in asheville here - with the indian black overdye I believe. The dye really seems to take more in the nooks and crannies of the fabric and has a charcoal kind of texture, but otherwise is more of a grey overtone overall. You can see in some places the blue hues coming but most of the indigo on it is still pretty dark. Overall it's pretty crunchy stuff I really like it - there's a little bit of a stitching blowout on the right chest I'd like to get cleaned up better though - seemingly due to the heft of the fabric. I might have sprung for the 10 yr version if I didn't already own this (and to be honest, the price was tough for me to swallow justified as it might be) - that said this is one of my favorite items I've got and I'm hoping to really give it a lot more time over the next few years. 

[JDelage]

That was a nice release. I was in France at the time so decided not to buy.

[rodeo bill]

Great outfit @AlientoyWorkmachine, and thank you or noticing the photo shoots! I don't do much photography myself these days, but I've always loved it as a medium, and I have a really good relationship with the photographer who's shot the past 7 years or so's worth of seasons. We always try to do something interesting with the equipment and film, as well as locations and compositions. It's one of my favourite parts of the process :-)

Speaking of Cross Weave denim, over the past few weeks I've been getting some very-long-delayed 19oz Cross Weave jeans in stock. These were cut out in 2018, but only just got made- the cut fabric has been sitting at the factory for nearly three years... I think they're worth the wait, though, they've come out really nicely. Here are some closeups of a pair of walnut dyed 132s:

The Cross Weave fabric is a pretty simple idea, but I've not seen it done before. Normal denim is an indigo warp (up/down) and a white weft (side/side), and normal jeans are cut along the length of the fabric (which is why eg the selvage of the fabric runs up the leg). With Cross Weave denim the warp is ecru (a very substantial canvas weight unbleached and un-shrunk cotton) and the weft is the Japanese-spun and rope-dyed indigo cotton that's used as the warp in standard Tender denim. Looking at the fabric on a roll, the twill is woven at quite an oblique angle, and it's a left hand twill. The jeans, however, are cut across the fabric, ie at 90 degrees from normal, so the twill becomes much more normal looking, and it's a right hand twill. I wasn't sure if this would work as a normal right hand twill, but it does! This isn't the most convincing photo, but you can see that there's a pretty definite clockwise twist (especially noticeable on the left leg in this photo), which means the rotated-left-hand-twill is indeed twisting like a normal right hand twill:

These jeans are cut without a side seam, but other than that are the standard jeans patterns and spec. 

[rodeo bill]

While I'm at it, here are some photos of my own pair of Cross Weave 136s, worn from Unborn over the past two and a half years:

[julian-wolf]

1 hour ago, rodeo bill said:

The Cross Weave fabric is a pretty simple idea, but I've not seen it done before.

I don’t know for a fact, but I’m pretty sure that the Kapital Century Denim is woven as a weft-facing twill with indigo fill. It’s not quite the same, since here you’ve still woven the fabric as a warp-facing twill, such that the jeans are truly cut inside out (face in) rather than just weft-side out (but still face out)—but it’s an interesting comparison to make all the same.

I really like the whole idea of your cross-weave denim. It’s not for me, personally, but every time I’ve seen photos of it worn in it’s seemed a great study on how different factors of weaving affect the aging of indigo yarns: there’s so much more to it than just the sort of dye and the number of dips!

[rodeo bill]

8 hours ago, julian-wolf said:

It’s not quite the same, since here you’ve still woven the fabric as a warp-facing twill, such that the jeans are truly cut inside out (face in) rather than just weft-side out (but still face out)—but it’s an interesting comparison to make all the same.

Thanks very much for your insight! I'm not sure if I was quite clear- the fabric is cut face-out, not inside-out, it's just cut across the piece so that the indigo weft becomes the vertical on the garment (as it would be if it was a warp cut lengthways). The ecru warp was pushed back in the weave to let more blue show on the front (which is why the inside of the jeans show a bit more white than with normal denim), but it's still an indigo face/ecru back cloth. Sorry if I'm being pedantic! I love this:

8 hours ago, julian-wolf said:

there’s so much more to it than just the sort of dye and the number of dips!

 

[JDelage]

The Type 749 indigo cotton x natural linen slipover is super comfy...

 

[rodeo bill]

^this looks fantastic on you! thanks for the photo!

[julian-wolf]

On 5/12/2021 at 10:42 PM, rodeo bill said:

Thanks very much for your insight! I'm not sure if I was quite clear- the fabric is cut face-out, not inside-out, it's just cut across the piece so that the indigo weft becomes the vertical on the garment (as it would be if it was a warp cut lengthways). The ecru warp was pushed back in the weave to let more blue show on the front (which is why the inside of the jeans show a bit more white than with normal denim), but it's still an indigo face/ecru back cloth. Sorry if I'm being pedantic!

Denim pedantry is why we’re all here—thanks for correcting me! I guess the parallel to Century Denim is closer than I’d thought, after all. I’ll need to take a closer look at the cross weave denim; receiving the elephant mug wrapped in an extra swath of it seems to have been very timely (& the mug itself exceeds expectations, too!)

[rodeo bill]

24 minutes ago, julian-wolf said:

receiving the elephant mug wrapped in an extra swath of it seems to have been very timely (& the mug itself exceeds expectations, too!)

Thanks! Yup I thought you'd like to see the fabric in person :-)

[JDelage]

I had Rain at IndigoProof add a small tool pocket on the left leg of my 132. 

 

Edited July 7, 2021 by JDelage

[unders]

Looks real good. Was the fabric from a hem job or did you ask for extra?

[JDelage]

The fabric came from the hem job. It (finally!) helps not to be tall... Rain did an awesome job of course.

[heyson]

Did this at work today

whooper interstates

[julian-wolf]

@heyson That’s a shame, but luckily shouldn’t be too hard of a fix 

How are they aging, in general? Haven’t seen much of Whooper on here, nor anywhere else for that matter…