Tender Co. Denim

[sensy]

On 1/6/2023 at 10:00 AM, rodeo bill said:

something new! but as far as can be seen in this photo, 132. I'm hoping to get these into production later in the Spring- more then

I’m quietly (loudly I guess since I’m writing this post) hoping for a 132 with a higher rise, like the 125(?)

[sensy]

Meadow https://www.meadowweb.com/collections/tender-co is having a pretty decent sale on Tender items FYI. I already snagged a 452 shirt, a mug and a pair of 125 jeans.

I was going to wait for whatever the new 132 thing is, or possibly get one of the overdyed 125 but this pair was too cheap not to get (and I really love that fit).

Edited January 17, 2023 by sensy

[rodeo bill]

^nice choices @sensy! I'm sure you'll enjoy the 125s, it's a lovely cut. 

I recently received a beautiful pair of 130s back from an old friend @gregd. Here they are lined up with Unborn- these weren't hemmed, this is the leg shrinkage (~39" unborn to ~36" inseam after washing):

 

[Toegun]

@rodeo bill great comparison 

[sensy]

19 hours ago, rodeo bill said:

^nice choices @sensy! I'm sure you'll enjoy the 125s, it's a lovely cut. 

125 is already my favorite pair, and this reminds me to post my pair, 10 months old or so. 

[julian-wolf]

@rodeo bill Really like the look of the new Wide Face shirt

From the photos, it looks like a bit of a wider / shorter fit, similar to the Bridge Pocket shirt. Is there any truth to that, or just a bit of wishful thinking on my end?

[julian-wolf]

Meanwhile, Tender-heavy outfit today

feat. Bench shirt, Baste Pocket jacket, unseen socks

Edited January 24, 2023 by julian-wolf

[rodeo bill]

16 hours ago, julian-wolf said:

@rodeo bill Really like the look of the new Wide Face shirt

From the photos, it looks like a bit of a wider / shorter fit, similar to the Bridge Pocket shirt. Is there any truth to that, or just a bit of wishful thinking on my end?

Thanks so much for this Julian! The Wide Face shirt is a really nice one, I think it'll work well for you. It's not quite as wide as the Bridge Pocket Shirt, but a similar feel. The sleeves are a little longer. Here are a couple of photos (size 3, and I'm wearing a T-shirt underneath)- flat to show the proportions, and with the cuffs rolled back as I wear it myself (I have short arms and like cuffs on my wrist):

[julian-wolf]

One of the folks who runs the farmers’ market took a photo of me last week to help advertise citrus season

…my main takeaway was how well the roping & puckering are coming along on the anniversary edition Type 900

(Also feat. Tilley hat, FW shirt & jeans, cash belt made from old grass-dyed lot 302 denim)

[mondo]

^ Wholesome!

that jacket could not be a better fit

[bartlebyyphonics]

no bragging right fades here, but been wearing this pair of 132 from raw for a good while between various other rotations...

starting to get results...

lovely slow burner; enjoying the multi blues of the standard denim dye very much...

[MJF9]

743 pullover... agreeing with Ooms, it's a lovely garment indeed

A little fading... and with some sweet skew which I particularly like - see the shoulder, side and arms seams

[JDelage]

Yeah, I have one of those sweaters too. Nice heft to it too.

[rodeo bill]

A lovely photo from a great friend of the brand, with his type 960 double breasted jacket and the best worn pair of 130Ps I’ve seen. Thanks Marc!

 

[bloom]

Didn't know about Tender co until recently, when I saw a photo here of some hippie looking dashing in what I learned was a "900 jacket", apparently while selling vegetables at a farmer's market. Went in search of said jacket, but no luck. I did however find an indigo cotton sweater, something I've been after for a long time. Turns out it's the same as pictured a few posts above.

 

Just want to say it's one of the most beautiful and unusual garments I've handled. Also probably the nicest commercial transaction I've ever had.

[AlientoyWorkmachine]

@bloom - it's a great jacket, my favorite denim design that's not obviously repro oriented. So much so that I have it in 2 fabrics.

FWIW, there are a few left, though neither are the woad version, and sizes are limited. https://www.tenderstores.com/product/type-900-jacket/?variation=28411 

Tender is a personal favorite for me - I've got more pieces from William's brand than from any other maker (mostly jackets, a few sweaters and one pair of jeans - for now). The denim used (as discussed recently in another thread) is its own sort of special. 

[MJF9]

@bloom there's a woad 10th anniversary type 900 in medium, with the special Donegal blanket liner, here

[rodeo bill]

Here's a little personal project: my own protype pair of 125s, from the first draft of the pattern, worn daily for a year or so:

Hand dyed indigo in Japan with an Achilles' Heel grip at the back of the waist:

The way the indigo sends the darker parts almost purple, while retaining the traintracks, marbling, and teeth, is really lovely I think, as is the watery contrast around the washed undyed denim at the back.

I've not yet seen a heavily worn in pair of regular Achilles' Heel jeans, which are dyed while the denim is still fresh, and the fading will be different, but equally lovely I think. As I say this is just a personal pair, but I thought they might be appreciated here!

 

 

[merzbot]

What a way to breathe new life into those jeans! I imagine it took some bravery to give such beautifully worn in pair another plunge in the indigo vat. The result is sublime.

[rodeo bill]

On 7/1/2023 at 3:05 PM, merzbot said:

What a way to breathe new life into those jeans! I imagine it took some bravery to give such beautifully worn in pair another plunge in the indigo vat. The result is sublime.

Thank you so much! and yes it did- but I'm totally delighted with the result.

[MJF9]

@rodeo bill lovely... I'm looking forward to seeing them continue to develop

[rodeo bill]

New denim!

I made a single roll of a 12oz Cross Weave denim that I'm calling 'Dimple' because of the lovely texture the yarn tensions create when it's washed. Now made up into a dozen pairs of jeans, and all used up. I'm really excited about this one, and rather wishing I had more yarn to weave some more.

People may already know the principal of Cross Weave denim, but in case not, the idea is that it's woven on an ecru cotton warp with an indigo weft, and then cut sideways. The garment therefore ends up with indigo going up and down, like normal denim, and the twill flips from left hand as it's woven, to right hand as it's worn. Very satisfyingly the legs twist as right hand twill.

I took a pair of 136s (size 4, same sizing as selvage denim) for myself, down to the laundrette for a big drum and proper dryer. Pre wash:

post wash and dry:

Now cut off (I've tacked the seams and left them raw- never done this before but I'm enjoying the lack of bulk in the cuff, and they should start looking nice with loose edges once they've been washed a few times I think), and worn for a couple of days:

I'm really happy with the texture of these. It looks more like a standard deep blue denim than the 19oz or 10oz Cross Weaves, but the surface dimples and slightly spotty ecru warp give it loads of character. The 12oz weight also feels lovely as an alternative to heavier fabric, without feeling at all flimsy.

I plan to wear these over the summer, and I'll keep you updated! I've made these in 130 and 136, and they're up on the Stores in Unborn and rinsed versions.

[MJF9]

A Tender recreation of this then Bill 

 

[rodeo bill]

Exactly!! I was wearing shorts underneath though, and went to the library while the wash was in (less sexy)

[willi]

I've purchased a Tender GS/TP watch secondhand that sadly seems to be broken. Wonderful looking watch and I'll be sad to have to send it back. I'm assuming that the watch should wind clockwise with the crown in first position (unscrewed)? It's hard to tell if winding powers the motion at all without a second hand but does not seem to.

[tjsma]

@willi That is a lovely watch. Probably a daft question, but are you certain it’s a wind-up? Many of the GS/TP watches are quartz.

[rodeo bill]

@willi that is a nice one! It's the Fried Eggs dial, and from the length of the lugs it's from the first run (we lengthened the lugs slightly in later runs) but @tjsma is right, this is a quartz watch, so likely just needs a new battery, which can be fitted at any local watch repair place (or a decent shoe menders/key cutters).

Edit- just to confirm, the crown on these watches is only to set the time- pull out and turn anti/clockwise to set the hands. Only the black cased GS/TP watches and a very few early 'Flier's Dial' silver steel case watches were wind-up.

Edited July 19, 2023 by rodeo bill

[willi]

That's great! I'm thrilled. Thanks for your replies.

[rodeo bill]

My own 12oz dimple Cross Weave 136s are coming along nicely, some photos once they show a bit more, but here are some pics of a pair belonging to a long-time customer and friend of the brand. These are 10oz Cross Weave 130s. This denim was woven a little looser, showing more warp (the ecru yarn) on the face, and a more pronounced twill, than the 12oz version. A pic when they were fairly new in Spring 2019, then again this week. These are the best-worn pair of these that I've seen. Bonus points for 4-year place mat continuity.

[sensy]

My old pair of 125 (just before I'm about to wash them) with my very simple handmade horsebutt belt.