Tender Co. Denim

[Georg]

This is a 125 too

[rodeo bill]

On 3/4/2024 at 7:13 AM, sensy said:

Oh snap, the tricolore-weft is back (https://www.tenderstores.com/product/type-497-open-shoulder-floor-shirt/?variation=33143).

Indeed! I really like this fabric too, and it's particularly interesting how it takes the darker dyes, which make the colour variation much more subtle. I'll have one more variation in this fabric over the next few weeks, but I'm afraid none going to EU stockist this time. Here are some closeups of the 'rough' logwood and hadal purple dyed versions. The rough logwood was a test using a mix of old more coarsely ground logwood powder, it didn't dye as evenly as regular logwood (particularly the newest batch of black logwood which came out beautifully dark and clean) but I think works really well on this fabric, which is slightly coarser and heavier, and in this style, which works best as an overshirt/light jacket.

 

[bartlebyyphonics]

quick 132 post wash denim check…

 

[MJF9]

@bartlebyyphonics denim looks great!

[irual]

My 130 after a wash to follow @bartlebyyphonics. I must have had to re-stitch almost every stitch in the top block and back pockets but all good. Next to re-attach the one hanging belt loop.

[merzbot]

My Hadal green overdyed 125's are slowly getting more difficult to pass off as black jeans. I'm alright with it though!

[rodeo bill]

lovely to see all these jeans @merzbot @irual @bartlebyyphonics, fading twisting and repairs all looking great. Really good to see a pair of hadal jeans wearing in, too- please keep us posted.

Here are my 12oz Cross Weave 136s. I get such a kick out of seeing the right-hand twist on a left hand twill fabric cut sideways 🙂

 

[clawbytes]

130 daily wear for over a year, maybe 2-3 washes.

 

[bartlebyyphonics]

sun studies of 125 achilles heel overdye…

fluffy fuzzy multiblue cosmos…

hats off to professor (or is it mad scientist?) @rodeo bill - this fabric is top tier

[merzbot]

On 3/22/2024 at 5:10 AM, rodeo bill said:

Really good to see a pair of hadal jeans wearing in, too- please keep us posted.

Will do! I recently started working on a hadal brown reefer jacket.

[JDelage]

@merzbot -  Can you show that reefer jacket worn please?

Edited May 19 by JDelage

[rodeo bill]

seconded @JDelage, @merzbotI'd love to see it!

[merzbot]

For sure @JDelage and @rodeo bill! Here are some quick smudges :-)

I picked it up from the kind lads at BlkBlu. I'd normally go for a size 5 but I went for a 6. I didn't notice much difference in the body between the two and the 6 gave me a little more length in the sleeves and body. I'm really loving it. It's going to provide a nice layer of protection over a jumper this autumn and winter!

[vexed_wear]

Would love to see some fit pics of the lovely 136 if anyone has any?  Thank you in advance : ]Would love to see some fit pics of the lovely 136 if anyone has any?  Thank you in advance : ]

[Dr_Heech]

51 minutes ago, vexed_wear said:

Would love to see some fit pics of the lovely 136 if anyone has any?  Thank you in advance : ]Would love to see some fit pics of the lovely 136 if anyone has any?  Thank you in advance : ]

Say that again?

[MJF9]

Type 410 three pocket square tail shirt in Achilles' Heel indigo dyed 10oz cross weave denim... now close your eyes and say that again 

I ummed and ahhed over sizes and could have gone larger but opted for a shirt fit rather than shirt/jacket fit.  I'd happily have another one in another fabric (top selection of fabrics kicking around) but would go a size up for layering.

This fabric is definitely special, lovely 3D texture and wonderful colour.  I gave it a couple of washes before wearing just to be sure to take off any excess dye (safety measure on my part; the shirt has actually had a wash after dyeing, and I understand that the dye is more firmly fixed than in a standard denim).

The pics below are pre-wash, taken indoors with the light on... 

[desolate]

Just spotted that Tender are moving to the USA next month.

 

Is this a permanent move, or just for the summer?

[JDelage]

Maybe @rodeo bill will chime in at some point.I certainly wasn't expecting that.

[AlientoyWorkmachine]

It looks permanent (I'm not going on anything other than what the site says), PA is not really a place people go for summer. And even if, I can't imagine relocating a whole studio for that reason! Hope it's a smooth transition and it all goes well, whatever it is. It would be a welcome addition to the US clothing design world!  

Edited June 23 by AlientoyWorkmachine

[desolate]

11 minutes ago, AlientoyWorkmachine said:

It looks permanent (I'm not going on anything other than what the site says), PA is not really a place people go for summer. And even if, I can't imagine relocating a whole studio for that reason! Hope it's a smooth transition and it all goes well, whatever it is. It would be a welcome addition to the US clothing design world!  

Yes - the UK's loss is America's gain.

 

Hope a UK stockist comes on board with a wider range of goods.

And obviously wish @rodeo bill success with the move.

Edited June 23 by desolate

[redragon]

Would be interested to see how the move will affect the fabric used in future model...

[rodeo bill]

Thank you all so much! And apologies for the lack of posts here recently, there's been an awful lot going on.

We are indeed moving to the US permanently (or at least for the foreseeable future), to a smallish town just west of Philadelphia. We have family and friends in the area, and it's good timing personally. A big change for the business, and I have a lot to figure out over the coming weeks and months. At least for the time being there are no plans to change the current UK production, but I'm also excited to see what new opportunities come along.

I'll be taking a couple of months off while stock crosses the Atlantic, so will try to be a bit more active with wear photos etc.

19 hours ago, AlientoyWorkmachine said:

PA is not really a place people go for summer

ha! quite right, we're going to have a hot welcome.

[JDelage]

Best of luck with the move and getting used to all the idiosyncrasies here. For you I expect the language barrier will be a significant challenge... 😀  Get in touch if you ever plan to visit Seattle. 

[rodeo bill]

^thank you so much for this @JDelage, I'd love to visit the Pacific NW, looking forward to seeing a lot more of the States all over. To answer various people's kind questions, all my UK suppliers are going strong and happy to keep working with me so at least initially production will remain unchanged and I'll be back regularly to keep on top of things. I am looking forward to seeing what new opportunities arise, however, so I hope I’ll be in the nice position of only making positive changes, as and when I can.

In the meantime, I had another nice email in response to the most recent newsletter that went out, about Butterfly shirts and the new Weaver's Stock version of this design. The question was: "what’s the difference between a true cuff and a false cuff? I’ve heard that term elsewhere, but am not sure what it means. Here's my response, which might be of interest here too?

Not sure if this is what other people mean by a false cuff, but I mean a cuff that is actually just a facing laid on top of the end of the sleeve panels. It’s what’s on all the Tender shirts you’ve had:

A classic cuff, however, is added onto the end of the sleeve panels, and it’s this that I’ve done for the first time with the new Weaver’s Stock shirts:

The true cuff just feels a bit more formal and elegant, while the false cuff is more workwear-inspired and a lot more idiosyncratic. I especially like how the fabric direction of the cuff (warp side-to-side) pulls against the sleeve (warp up and down), when the garment is dyed or washed.

 

[desolate]

Many years ago Tender produced some T-shirts with designs by (I think) Dorrit Dekk - they are a particular favourite of mine.

 

does anyone know if it's possible to buy prints of the designs (or if there is some old stock lying around @rodeo bill)?

[merzbot]

Good luck with the move @rodeo bill!

I saw a smudge of a forthcoming collaboration with Middle Distance (a former student?)

Looking cool 

[julian-wolf]

Spent the second half of this week dyeing baby clothes for a new niece. They’re all cotton. I don’t often dye with cellulose fibers because it’s such an extra hassle—but the flip side of this is that, when I do, I tend to throw as much in there as I can

Had a cotton bandana laying around for who knows how long (I think it shipped w/ something or other from the Trestle Shop)…now it’s pink

 Tannic acid -> alum + lots of soda ash -> ground cochineal

 

 

 

 

[gcartelli]

This one's a bit of a stretch, sort of literally, but have a pair of size 1 130p, have spied a good deal on a pair of 132d but in size 4...I'm open to a wider fit, but the measurements seem too good to be true re: the waist, which is listed at 15.75". Does anyone have a sense if that is roughly accurate? Seems too small to me. They've been hemmed to exactly my preferred length, and obviously much wider throughout the leg. 

[chicote]

I have a pair of 132d size 2 and had to dart the waist to get them to fit me without a belt… the waist was at least 31” before taking it in. I’d expect the same model in size 4 to be far too large to wear, especially if you normally take a size 1. For reference, i am a 29-30 in all other brands.

Edited July 15 by chicote

[julian-wolf]

Size 4 jeans (at least those made from the standard denim) should have around a 36” waist