Roy. (expurgated edition)

[Broark]

I was trying to but there were some CC processing issues and now my card is getting declined.  Temp charged twice on my card though. Might try tomorrow and hope they’re still there. 

[Quoise1203]

“Roy Slapper” 

https://gearpatrol.com/2019/02/15/roy-for-self-edge-r01-jeans/

[FeloniousMonk]

Yep, I really wanted a pair of Roys for mostly sentimental/collection reasons, and this feels like a pretty perfect pair to that end: very classic styling, impeccably cut and sewn as always, and in his own personal denim. The cloth patch is a nice touch to me, since I’ve always loved his patch designs but the leather seemed to fade in only a few washes. So I picked up a pair from SENY this evening and will get around to wearing them... someday...

I also wonder how much more black seed denim Roy has salted away. He’s now put out what, 4 or 5 runs of black seed jeans? It will be interesting to see what he does once his stash runs out, but I certainly hope he stays in the denim game.

[elmcitizen]

Very interesting how much action this thread gets when a release is upcoming and how suddenly it goes dead after release day.

Did anyone actually pick up a pair? Fit pics? General impressions? I know a lot of people will tuck a pair away while working a current pair but I'd still love to hear what everyone who did purchase thought and maybe see some pics.

Thanks! 

[Broark]

I ultimately talked myself out of a pair, just too similar to my Memorial Jeans at the end of the day. Plus I have a pair of R01’s with Test Lot details that I haven’t even soaked yet. So I’m just going to keep wearing my Memorial Jeans for awhile and try to get them broken in nicely.

[mpukas]

I skipped this drop, too. I have a pair of R01 w/ test lot details, washed and shrunken, but unworn. Maybe if this drop was unsoaked I might have grabbed a pair just to hoard in their raw state. 

[JDelage]

I've barely started wearing my Memorial. I'll wait for a different fabric (the cut is perfect for me).

[tewsday]

I purchased a pair online over the weekend. I really wanted to stop by SESF and try it on before purchasing, but I was too impatient considering it’s an hour and half drive for me. I’ve been eyeing Roy’s work since 2010 ish; however, I was never able to afford any of his products since I was still in high school. This is my first Roy purchase so I’m pretty excited to own a piece of his creation. 

I am contemplating whether I should double up and keep one archived considering black seed denim’s near extinction. I may just wait and see what Roy drops next, but we shall see how fond I am of the denim when I see them in person.

I personally like the straight taper fit as I usually lean towards looser fitting jeans/pants with cuffs. I will provide fit pics when it arrives. 

I am planning to do an initial cold soak just to get the shrinkage out of the way. I am curious to know what everyone else is planning to do: an initial soak prior to wearing, or just wear it right out the bat with the just the rinse-state? 

[goodrain]

you probably need a hot wash or two to get all the shrinkage out

[julian-wolf]

They're pre-soaked, so I wouldn't expect a further cold soak to make all that much of a difference…if you want to get the shrinkage out of the way, put them through the machine on warm.

[UkeNo]

As described and discussed a few times on this thread, there will be more shrink to be had from the black seed denim. It shrinks for the first few (2-4) times it hits water. Varied (of course) by temp and method, but there's plenty of shrink to be had. 

Roy's initial warm 20min soak will have taken out say 50-75% of it, but there's more to come.

 

(I've had 4 pairs of Roy's Black seed)

[jegr]

A quick update of where i'm at. I purchased a 32 (was debating between 32 and 33) and went against most everybody's advice about going TTS or even sizing up and now I am thinking about exchanging for a 33.

The partial soak by Roy has me a bit baffled as I have no experience with the black seed denim or what a 20 minute luke warm soak would really do to it. I usually hot soak for an hour or so and then machine wash warm but with all of the talk about how much this denim continues to shrink I was planning to hot wash a couple of times to get the shrink out.

Anyways, if I treat the current 32 as a halfway shrink job like @UkeNo suggests then the 32 would work great as I need about an inch of shrinkage in the waist and with such a wide cut everything could use a tightening up. However, if these were raw I'd probably go with the 33 expecting much more shrinkage which brings up the topic of how much the black seed denim shrinks and continues to shrink.

So that's where I am at, treat the soak as if it did very little to the overall shrinkage or treat it as a halfway job? My most recent widerish cut was the OOE OA01 and my size 35 fits great but that is a medium rise and these are high rise...

[goodrain]

how is the fit everywhere other than the waist? Got fit pic?

[jegr]

23 minutes ago, goodrain said:

how is the fit everywhere other than the waist? Got fit pic?

It’s a really wide cut so it feels like it could use some shrinkage all around but I can tell I am going to like the cut a lot. I’ll get a picture of the fit when I get home later.

[goodrain]

I would say if your pair fits you like how the 33 fits the SE model then you are probably going to be OK with the 32

[jegr]

Here is what the fit of the 32s look like. If they were raw I would say I need a size up. With the 20 minute soak already in I'm not sure what to expect.

I am kind of leaning towards a size up and hot washing them and if need be a dryer session or two, although I'm not big on the dryer.

[goodrain]

agreed. they look pretty good right now. So you should get the 33

[FeloniousMonk]

I'll also add that the OA01 fit feels about identical to the R01 fit, but with 2" larger tag size. I.e., if a 35 fits great in the OA01, you probably will do best with a 33 in the R01 fit (with the exception of the rise, which is crazy high on the Roys).

I'm basing this off having Ooe's Golden Gate 01 fit jeans in size 33 and the newest R01 jeans in size 31 - their measurements through the leg are very similar, and they feel/look about the same in the hips, though the rise measurements on the Roys are about 0.5-1" higher in the front and 1.5" higher in the back. If that extra rise gives you enough extra room in the waist relative to your OA01, then you can probably keep the size 32s, but they'll be a bit tighter than your Ooes when fully shrunk.

[Broark]

Yeah I would also say go up a size, you should be able to get some good shrink out of them with a hot wash.
For reference my Memorial Jeans were hemmed to about 35 in. presoak and have shrunk maybe ~4 inches in length over a few washes.
I find the Black Seed denim to be pretty forgiving and stretches pretty easily. I have 4 pairs using this denim.

[mpukas]

Different opinion here - The 32's look big on you now, and with a little more shrink they'll be a good fit. I think a 33 will be too big. You'll get a little more shrink with a hot wash; then you can decide on a hot dryer or not. My black seed pairs shrank almost 2" in the waist and almost 4" in length. Most of it came with the first wash. The waist and hips stretch back rather quickly, and depending on how tight they are on you, will shrink more or less in proportion to the amount of stress. 

It comes down to how you like your jeans to fit. This is a very loose cut, and with the high rise it's possible to size down, since the natural waist is smaller than the hips. It's meant to ride higher, but can be worn lower towards the hips too, if you're ok w/ a bit of baggy butt. If you haven't already, check out Roy's IG account where he shows fit pics of three different sizes for comparison. 

[Maynard Friedman]

I agree with mpukas and think the 32 will be fine.

[Broark]

Ultimately I think you could go either way, 32 for a little slimmer fit or 33 for a little looser.
The 32 doesn't look too small, I just prefer my jeans to be a little looser these days. 

[jegr]

@mpukas I decided to follow through with my gut and size down after reading that you did the same and liked the results.

There is definitely room for shrinkage in these 32s and I do like a fitted top block. If it weren’t for so much information about how much the black seed denim shrinks I wouldn’t think twice about keeping these 32s.

@FeloniousMonk they are in deed similar to the OA01 and good to know you sized -2 going from the ooe to the roys. Seems like either way would be okay, it’s just hard to say how much shrinkage is left in these after their initial 20 min soak.

@goodrain, @Broark, @Maynard Friedman, @FeloniousMonk, and @mpukas I appreciate the help!

[shredwin_206]

Not sure why people are saying size up. Those look borderline too big in my opinion. 

I’d give them a hot wash and dry and bet they’d fit perfect 

[goodrain]

on page 174 @mpukas has fit pics of 32s after hot wash and hot dry. As you can see, there is a ton of shrinkage left if you want to take it there. If not, just keep it out of the dryer.

[jegr]

Thanks for the feedback @ecsong187! I’m glad I checked in with you fine folk before sending these back for a bigger size. I’ll update the fit when I get a chance to wash these next week. Again, much appreciated everyone.

[julian-wolf]

Seems like the decision's already made, but I'll agree with others that that size looks likely to work out just fine, especially if you're going for a slightly slimmer fit. Keep us updated!

[shredwin_206]

My input on why this last run of jeans with ROY and SE seems to be sticking around longer than others. 

Many now after 4-5 releases of the memorial cut. Most people have a pair or 2 already. 

People expected a different cut and more interesting details 

some people don’t like supporting SE. plus the charge for hemming and the more expensive price. 

Some people will never pay $400 for CONE denim 

[STINGER93]

I'm glad I skipped out on these - not that they're not great (they are), but I'm still getting so much enjoyment out of my Big Bro 2s (4 years on), which to me are the perfect blend of fit & details for this denim.

Now if someone had a new/little-worn pair of Buck-Tites they were willing to part with (preferably size 30/31) they were willing to part with...

[UkeNo]

Big Bro 2's just washed.