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Vintage Denim?


johnmc

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@mk3radial difficult to find leg 38 or leg 40 in vintage Levis 501 nowadays, so congrats. A recent pick up or did you own them from new?

If they had a 2 horse patch it would have read 2501 0117 (the 2 being the code for 40 leg length) - the same is  printed on the inside wash tag in your photo.

 

Edited by Dr_Heech
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On 3/18/2023 at 11:12 AM, NilsLW said:

Amazing pair of jeans, easily my favorite era for denim.
Out of curiosity, which of your repros would you say has the most similar fit to this pair?

Sorry I missed your message.

Maybe the LR-01 from Superstitch.

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  • 2 weeks later...

I received roughly 16 yards of vintage denim fabric. Here is a sample. I've looked around for the past few weeks. Is it hard to find 50 feet of vintage denim? I was told it is from the 60s. Not sure if that is true or not but it definitely has the old barn feel and smell. 

I'd like to get a pair of jeans and a jacket made. Has anyone gone this route before? 

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  • 1 month later...
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  • 3 weeks later...

Latest pickup - Amazing what you can find if you are willing to sift through page after page of trash.  Late 60s with the symmetrical V tab. Really nice face to it and plenty of life left. Quite nice, but a bit too small. In between 40 and 42. If anybody has any interest in it, feel free to DM me. 

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Edited by Facini
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  • 2 weeks later...

Some progress reported on SugarCane's project:

https://www.instagram.com/p/CvzkjK9tf4N/

Iterations of the flannel pocket cloth, the buttons.
The denim of 43 is darker and coarser than that of 46.
They're still working on a number of items like the stitching and sizing/pattern.
Normally their analysis includes cutting the cloth, but they can't do that with these vintage items that were lent to them.

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  • 2 weeks later...
8 minutes ago, Dr_Heech said:

Shame @silencejoe but a nice vintage example nonetheless and look at that two tone yoke stitch (on the inside at least) and that beautiful, yet fully intact, pocket arc stitch.

Plus, we need a full back top bloc pic, so we can see both pockets. Which model btw? 1953 or 1957 (or transitional)?

 

 

Here you go Dr :laugh: hope you still can identify it ha ha

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Edited by silencejoe
:p
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16 minutes ago, Dr_Heech said:

@silencejoe Looks to have copper backed rivets on front pockets? Has it got any numbers or letters on backs of buttons? Any numbers on the back of hidden rivets? Can we get a pic (on the inside) of the 'side seam' (thick, sail-like stitch going down the front pockets/above selvedge/redline seam)?

Thanks in advance :laugh:

 

Here you go Dr, i just found that my first vtg levis also late 50s ha ha, have fun 

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Thanks @silencejoe Nice comparison but no way to tell whether an offset belt loop or not (the lighter pair are early 60's btw).

On the front of the fly buttons, in the word 'levi strauss', is there a long/exaggerated tail on the bottom of the R in strauss or is there a  short/regular tail on the bottom of the R in strauss? Apparently this is a way to determine whether or not the pair are from the earlier or latter half of the 50's. 

 

Edited by Dr_Heech
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Recently the on/off button on my Samsung phone (from 2016) fell out(?) So l had to bite the bullet and get an upgrade and thought l'd test out the camera.

So it's time for some type 3 loveliness l think. The reason being l was looking recently at the buttons on my son's early 70's 70505 cut off/vest, which was a present from @Flash a few years back, and noticed the enamel had worn off some of the buttons so much it started to show the bare metal underneath.

This got me thinking about buttons on type 3 jackets so l decided to do some comparisons of what few vintage examples l have to hand, you know for fun.

 

First up - this vest was a jacket made roughly between 1970 and 1973. It has 525 stamped on the buttons backs. The button front has a flat middle with those tiny dots around the company name, which was the last type of levis jacket button used until around 2002 when production moved abroad completely. The jacron patch is thinner cardstock than used on pre-1969 70505's and 557xx's. Both patches are the same size with same print but the card patch on the boy's jacket is rock hard whereas the vests patch is very pliable. 

The Boy's type 3 is an earlier one from c.1967/68, having mixed colour stitching and copper topped button facings with earlier domed centres. No dots around the Levi Strauss & Co name. It has 521 stamped on all the button backs.

 

 

 

 

 

 

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Edited by Dr_Heech
spelling and to add info and omit info
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So here is Mrs_Heech's late 60's/early 70's cord type 3 with a woven Slim fit label. It has copper coloured button tops but the bare metal is starting to show through dating this jacket to roughly 1968/1969. Pocket shapes are so so. Looks like the previous owner painted the adjuster buttons with white paint. It has 524 stamped on the button backs (with 52 stamped on the backs of the pocket buttons).

And last up is her mid 60's 557xx which has older style copper topped button facings (like the boy's 70505) with domed centres and D & 17 stamped on the button backs. 

According to the Levis denim jackets bible, the 17/D factory only produced type 3's with shirt weight denim on pocket flap backings. This one has the same weight denim as the rest of the jacket on the pocket flap backs, so don't believe everything you read (not that most of us do).

Last pics are pocket shape comparisons and jacket lengths. The 557 is a size smaller yet the pocket size is slightly longer but the length of the jacket is shorter :blink2: 

Just goes to show how levis played with the lengths on jackets during the transitional period of 1966/67 despite continuing to produce the 70505 (prev 557xx) and 71205 (prev 558xx) well into the 1980's.

 

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Edited by Dr_Heech
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  • 1 month later...
On 8/31/2023 at 7:32 PM, Cold Summer said:

Love it. Great shot of one of my favorite worn denim details - faded, fluffy, lemon yellow cotton stitching. There's something I find incredibly pleasant about the aesthetic contrast of yellow cotton stitching on well faded denim.

Yeah it's a great colour combo. This newly released watch features a variation of it. 

Screenshot_20231003-103952_Samsung Internet.jpg

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