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100% cotton threads are used for authenticity reason (and because they age nicer than poly threads). But when the stitching gives up after 2 weeks like on my front pockets on my 1001SXX is that still really authentic? I imagine if her husband’s jeans have broken stitches after such a short period of time, Mrs Miner/Cowboy would have been mad. And this wouldn’t have been a sign of a quality pair of jeans.

 

This is not a rant, just some food for thought. We know that Fullcount for example uses thread that is intended to break earlier but why don’t wait until it really happens naturally?

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Only one broken thread on my four pairs of Warehouse (a stitch or two at one of the pockets of my 700s).  I think you may have just got a pair that had an issue BF.  I don't believe Warehouse wants the stitching to go prematurely. Did you buy direct from them, or from a store in Japan?  Try contacting them, they may want them back and would fix them or get you a new pair.  

 

As for Fullcount, I don't know that they intentionally want to the stitching to wear early other than maybe the arcs.  My 0105s are over a year old, and the only stitch wear is at the arcs, and two stitches on the inside of the left pocket (that I'm digging my keys out of a dozen times a day).  They're holding up fine, but I'm only wearing them two days a week.  

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Could anyone who recently placed orders directly with Warehouse kindly share how long it took to have the order processed? I placed my order on Monday last week and received the email confirmation almost immediately confirming receipt, but no follow up concerning payment has come through. I sent a follow up email yesterday, and, again, received confirmation of the correspondence, but still no reply.

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Hej Andrew, here it is (it's on both pockets):

 

16223815965_9d00a39ff3_z.jpg

 

 

Like I said no big deal and an easy fix I'll probably do this weekend after I bought some matching thread. No reason for me to contact Warehouse about it (or Vintage Paradise where I bought them from). But thanks for the suggestion Michael :)

 

I just wanted to use this incident to talk about the historical correctness of early breaking threads ;)

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That's the spot that went on my 700s, though I think it's on the right pocket.  Just snipped it, and it didn't get any worse.  

 

As for historical accuracy, I don't think stitch problems happened much, or Levis and everyone else would have surely gotten a lot of returns!  I think the average consumer was less inclined to accept any fault with their clothing, or anything else they bought, back then.  

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It's the typical spot for those breaking stitches IMO.

 

And I am with you, if such things happened that early in the life of the pair of jeans back then, it would surely would have been a reason to complain. That is why I wonder why easily accept breaking stitches and just say "it's 100% cotton and that is historical correct". On the other hand why were poly-threads introduced? Probably because the 100%-cotton threads broke too early :D

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@hoggy: I already doubted the assumption that I buy better quality when buying raw denim from Japanese brands some years ago :D Mind you, before I wore dry denim I never ever had crotch blow outs or breaks/holes in the denim or breaking threads (of course I know, that I were my dry denim more often with less washes than I did with my old Levi's before).

I am with you, I buy it for the details, the heritage/repro side, materials, (hopefully) ethically production and all the other stuff combined with these brands we love :)

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That's the spot that went on my 700s, though I think it's on the right pocket.  Just snipped it, and it didn't get any worse.  

 

As for historical accuracy, I don't think stitch problems happened much, or Levis and everyone else would have surely gotten a lot of returns!  I think the average consumer was less inclined to accept any fault with their clothing, or anything else they bought, back then.  

my 415's went there as well...

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Great thread.  My 800 stitching is fine so far, but they've only been washed a few times.  The only pair that has shown early stitching issues is the 19 oz. Samurai S710XX.

 

Great post hoggreaster regarding quality (#4761).  There are many reasons why we're drawn to this world but longevity is probably not at the top of the list.  I hate to admit it but, despite owning Full Count, Warehouse, Samurai, Iron Heart, and Roy jeans, I am currently wearing a pair of 12 year old Levi's 550s purchased at J.C. Penny.  I like them because they're comfortable, soft, faded, broken in, and without a single failed stitch.  While I won't head over to Self Edge SF wearing these ("Yo Kiya"), I will continue to wear them almost everywhere else.

 

Based on other past or present hobbies and obsessions (e.g., photography, audio, fountain pens, watches, pocket knives, double edge razors and brushes), I can say that the issue of quality and price that we're discussing is not unique to denim.  Things that are made by hand or in small batches are often not only more expensive but subject to greater variation than mass produced stuff. Admittedly, there can be a fine line between 'character' and shoddy workmanship, 

 

Despite all this, who wouldn't love to own a pair of jeans like aho's pictured above?

 

John

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No it's not great, it's poor, that's why it breaks so easily!

 

Maynard, this actually made me spit my drink in laughter  :D

 

I've yet to experience experience such threading "issues" on my WH's but I'm wondering how much fit and lifestyle could affect it? Not sure if there's more stress on the pocket for example, if worn tighter. All pointless conjecture though; if it's not on any of the major seams, then you're golden! If it is, repair and move on I say!

 

As far historical details, I'd say that things were done/made with what was most efficient and effective at the time. Of course, over time things can be made to be "better", more efficient, more cost effective and more durable (ex: poly core, projectile looms, etc.), however as we've seen this has lead to lifeless, mass manufacturing of "fast fashion". I'd argue that repro brands and the whole japanese denim scene are products of trying to recapture that je ne sais quoi, that character and intangible quality that more "traditional" clothing used to have when things were smaller scale. Remember as well, Levi's used to have "Every garment guaranteed" on their patches! Cotton thread must've been strong enough... B)

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yes, my 800's showed up after all; will be giving them a machine wash tonight to get the shrinkage out of the way. Waist is perfect now so they should stretch nicely again to pre-wash measurements after some wear

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Happy for you, SLAB!

 

I gave mine a 30°C wash last night and did very quick & dirty measurement this morning. If anybody was wondering wether they really were sanforized as stated on the Bureau site - they're not.

 

Waist: 89cm --> 84-86cm

Hem: 23 cm --> 21,8cm

Inseam: 88 cm --> 83 cm

 

Might do another hot soak, depending on how they fit me tonight. The denim got very crisp and crinkly - lovely.

Edited by Max Power
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