SUPERDENIM SMALL QUESTIONS THREAD (Use instead of making new threads)

[julian-wolf]

1 hour ago, malik said:

The 34's have a ~14.61 thigh and a 33.98 inseam. My last pair of Sams were tapered to a 34.75 inseam with a 12.25 rise. I'm right in thinking that's the same length, right? (or is there a catch to this simple logic?)

Not sure what you mean by this. Are you suggesting that for a higher rise you’ll want shorter legs? If so, yeah, that’s generally wrong.

Overall, it seems like you’re maybe expecting to glean a little too much from measurements. Clothes are complicated 3D shapes, and a few simple 1D measurements are never going to do a great job of describing how they’ll fit, at least beyond “yeah, that’s probably the right size” or “those are definitely too slim”. On top of that, if you’re used to having issues with jeans’ thighs being too slim, it’s likely that the most relevant measurement would be the width of the legs 3–6” below the crotch seam, since this is where pants tend to get the most restrictive—and this rarely shows up on any size charts anyways.

I can’t say whether this is still the case for their newer models, but historically Momotaro’s cuts have tended to be fairly slim through the seat and not so rounded through the hips (something that isn’t expressed in measurement charts), so that could be a limiting factor as well if you’ve been lifting.

[Hopethisoneisnttaken]

3 hours ago, malik said:

I just had another look at the Momotaro M400STIB4S, I may have ruled them out prematurely 
https://momotaro-jeans.com/m400stib4s-400-standard-wide-14-7oz-button-fly.html

The 34's have a ~14.61 thigh and a 33.98 inseam. My last pair of Sams were tapered to a 34.75 inseam with a 12.25 rise. I'm right in thinking that's the same length, right? (or is there a catch to this simple logic?)

The description says "TOKUNO BLUE' fabric... designed for enjoyment in its rigid (unwashed) state." and "By applying a process that minimizes shrinkage after washing to the utmost extent, reduce the drawbacks of rigid (unwashed) fabrics and alleviate concerns about size selection. #400 is the most relaxed, wide-fitting model."

So although they're unwashed it sounds like they're good to go from day one without a wash to shrink to size and I can expect minimal shrinkage down the line. Hmmm. What do you people reckon to that?

I'm not that familiar with Momotaro but a quick glance suggests this a new cut and new material as part of a rebrand which also includes no stripes on the pocket (which I prefer)

Looks like they're only available through the Momotaro site for now 

In my experience and opinion most denim is forever shrinking, unsaforized or not. Unless you plan on cold soaking every six months or something similar. 

[AlientoyWorkmachine]

I haven’t looked at the new ones but historically Momo uses sanforized fabrics which do indeed shrink less but still do shrink, usually in the realm of 3-5% instead of 10% or so for unsanforized. Sanforized fabrics are also less desirable to some (myself included, though I’m not dogmatic about this) because it can flatten the character out of the denim, fwiw. 

[yung_flynn]

On 9/23/2024 at 11:44 PM, malik said:

Hey, 

TLDR: I have a big thigh to waist ratio and I'm struggling to find a good pair of denim. 

Backstory: I had a lovely pair of Oni's from son of stag a few years ago. I can't remember the model. They were a straight fit, probably heavier than 15oz. Fit like a glove at the start. Fast forward a year of heavy exercise (and little use because of covid) and the crotch and thigh got noticeably tight. Shortly after that I moved them on. Oddly, in retrospect, I didn't pick up or try on a pair of denim again for quite a while (I adopted a heavy covid fleece driven wardrobe).

Present dilemma: I have big thighs and an athletic build with a waist of around 35. If the denim fits in the waist it's usually too small in the thigh. If the thigh fits they're usually too big in the waist. If, on the odd occasion, I do find a pair with promising measurements (like full count 0105 or Momotaro M400STIB4S) then the inseam is too small (I'm 6'4).

Ideal fitting pair of denim (give or take here or there - measurements in the style of the iron heart method):

Waist laid flat: ~17.5/18

Thigh: ~ 14.5

Front rise: ~13

Knee: ~ 11

Hem: ~ 9.5

Inseam ~35

I've tried to no avail:
Samurai S3000 (too small in the thigh)
Samurai S2000
Iron heart 888 (too slim a fit)
Sugar Cane 1947 (36's too small, 38's are huge)
Full count 0105 (34 inseam is too small)
3Sixteen RS100 (maybe give them a go but a little tight in the crotch/thigh)

Considered:
TCB's (rise looks too small)
Naked and Famous (not a fan of the denim)
Levis shrink to fit
Warehouses (all look too small)
Samurai S2000 (bigger rise than the S3000)
Atlast & co (not easy to get hold of)
Tender (store is closed for now)
Oni (small rise and thigh)

Anyone been in a similar situation and can advise, please? Better yet can anyone impart a gem my way?

It would, honestly, be greatly appreciated. I've been looking for a good fitting pair of denim and have bought and sold the wrong pairs now for the best part of a year. 

 

I'm a similar height and have the same problem with inseams for some brands, so Full Count is never an option and Warehouse is shorter than I'd prefer and I have to wear them slightly above my ankle.

I'd suggest taking a look at TCB 50s or 30s if you can compromise a small amount on the front rise and leg opening. A 35-36" waist should have 14.5" thighs with 12.5" rise for either model and inseam is 35". Both are reasonably generous up top.

 

Edit: I'd also take a look at Jelado 313xx. The front rise looks more like 12-12.5", but the thighs are big ~14" and the top should be pretty anti-fitted. 

Edited September 25 by yung_flynn

[Maynard Friedman]

@malik if you can find Momotaro 0901s in a 36, they may fit the bill. Wide thigh, long inseam and NOT sanforized. I had a pair in size 32 and have big thighs and can recommend them.

[reallypeacedoff]

I have the 0906 and the 15.7oz denim is fantastic. Worth checking Blue Owl if you are in the states...

[willi]

edit: claimed.

I have a 20% discount coupon for Kamakura Shirts online store that is valid until September 30th. It's possible that it's linked to my account but I'm not sure. DM me if you would like to try it.

Edited September 25 by willi

[malik]

23 hours ago, julian-wolf said:

Not sure what you mean by this. Are you suggesting that for a higher rise you’ll want shorter legs? If so, yeah, that’s generally wrong.

Overall, it seems like you’re maybe expecting to glean a little too much from measurements. Clothes are complicated 3D shapes, and a few simple 1D measurements are never going to do a great job of describing how they’ll fit, at least beyond “yeah, that’s probably the right size” or “those are definitely too slim”. On top of that, if you’re used to having issues with jeans’ thighs being too slim, it’s likely that the most relevant measurement would be the width of the legs 3–6” below the crotch seam, since this is where pants tend to get the most restrictive—and this rarely shows up on any size charts anyways.

I can’t say whether this is still the case for their newer models, but historically Momotaro’s cuts have tended to be fairly slim through the seat and not so rounded through the hips (something that isn’t expressed in measurement charts), so that could be a limiting factor as well if you’ve been lifting.

Ha! 

I'm assuming,  high-rise-denim-naively, that I'll wear the rise in roughly the same place as where I wore my medium rise denim. Therefore gaining length on the inseam from the bottom part of where the rise would be This, as I think about it now, is probably a load of crap I tried to convince myself with to have this problem solved. 

I abandoned the idea unless I can find somewhere to try them on and get a real feel for what I'm working with. 

 

@Maynard Friedman thanks for the suggestion but the rise looks too small

 

 

Edited September 26 by malik

[Double 0 Soul]

2 hours ago, malik said:

Ha! 

I'm assuming,  high-rise-denim-naively, that I'll wear the rise in roughly the same place as where I wore my medium rise denim. Therefore gaining length on the inseam from the bottom part of where the rise would be

^This is genius!

Brightened up my morning.. unintentional denim comedy

[beautiful_FrEaK]

Well, there is some truth in it. I have experienced it every so often that some high rise jeans just tend to sag to the usual spot where I wear my jeans and since they are worn lower than intended, this adds to the overall length/Inseam.

That's also why i often don't like some high rise jeans, they will simply fall down (even with a belt).

[beautiful_FrEaK]

On 9/24/2024 at 5:48 PM, malik said:

I'm not familiar. Interesting. The denim looks great. Plus, love the idea of picking something up from such a small brand/absolute artisan.
 
So you're saying there are two options? One: semi-custom (I can send over some measurements to alter his existing pattern). Two: he offers a western cut OTR? 

Is the best insta handle to ask him if he's taking orders this one? https://www.instagram.com/librapondus/?locale=undefined&hl=am-et
@Broark  roger that. I'll drop him a line to confirm and report back. 

Well he has his standard model, and then builds the western version on top of that (in a standard way). And then yes, you can still ask for some alterations which are not too far away from the original pattern.

It's best to contact him on his rebuilt.jp account 

 

[Double 0 Soul]

14 minutes ago, beautiful_FrEaK said:

Well, there is some truth in it. I have experienced ot every so often that some high rise jeans just tend to sag to the usual spot where I wear my jeans and since they are worn lower than intended, this adds to the overall length/Inseam.

That's also why i often don't like some high rise jeans, they will simply fall down (even with a belt).

https://www.wikihow.com/Wear-Really-Low-Baggy-Pants-Without-Losing-Them

[Double 0 Soul]

Did Britney just need to pull these up a bit?

[beautiful_FrEaK]

I am not sure what a picture of Britney with obviously low rise jeans adds to the argument of wearing high rise jeans lower than intended but then I'm not a native speaker as you know so it maybe just went over it head

[Mtvare]

51 minutes ago, Double 0 Soul said:

https://www.wikihow.com/Wear-Really-Low-Baggy-Pants-Without-Losing-Them

Thanks for this @Double 0 Soul . I've been wondering lately why I've seen so many guys wearing two pairs of tracksuit bottoms even in boiling hot weather - now I understand!

[MJF9]

If we take to extremes

1) a 50cm rise + 80cm inseam

2) a 30cm rise + 80cm inseam

If worn in exactly the same place on the waist, scenario 1) has more material which has to go somewhere… and would hang lower on the leg

Noting and agreeing that there are many more parameters will define how they look on an individual!! 😃

[MJF9]

48 minutes ago, Mtvare said:

Thanks for this @Double 0 Soul . I've been wondering lately why I've seen so many guys wearing two pairs of tracksuit bottoms even in boiling hot weather - now I understand!

I'm seeing an opportunity... two pairs of jeans anyone for double fading???

[indigoeagle]

The wikihow is already very informative.
Are there any videos by experts explaining these techniques in more detail and showing the various fits?

[Double 0 Soul]

 

1 hour ago, MJF9 said:

If we take to extremes

1) a 50cm rise + 80cm inseam

2) a 30cm rise + 80cm inseam

If worn in exactly the same place on the waist, scenario 1) has more material which has to go somewhere… and would hang lower on the leg

Noting and agreeing that there are many more parameters will define how they look on an individual!! 😃

 

Quite .. take these Lot44 which i've dug out of the Mister Freedom thread, they're a good example of rise v waist.. incidentally they're described as a medium rise but if they migrated down to a natural waist position, ie- 5" lower, the crotch would be at your knees and you wouldn't be able to reach your pockets

[OutSider]

16 hours ago, reallypeacedoff said:

I have the 0906 and the 15.7oz denim is fantastic. Worth checking Blue Owl if you are in the states...

Unless it's an exclusive, it's much cheaper to buy from Bears, Demino or anywhere proxy wise they buying Momo's direct or stateside. Even with shipping and taxes it'll be noticably cheaper 

 

Also depending on how low you sag, you can generally get away with up a medium rise anything more and you risk not reaching pockets. It also depends on how long your arms are. IE I can't go more then a 14" rise of that start to hang too low when rocking around my hips 

Edited September 26 by OutSider

[beautiful_FrEaK]

27 minutes ago, Double 0 Soul said:

 

Quite .. take these Lot44 which i've dug out of the Mister Freedom thread, they're a good example of rise v waist.. incidentally they're described as a medium rise but if they migrated down to a natural waist position, ie- 5" lower, the crotch would be at your knees and you wouldn't be able to reach your pockets

Neal, you are thinking in extremes  

I think in this case we were talking about 0.5-1". If one really needs that extra length it could be achieved through sagging. 

Would I base an online purchase on this? Never.

But if the jeans can be tried on before the purchase and it works for the individual, why not?

I will just keep on hiking up my higher rise jeans ever now and then before I step on my hem

(Bodies are simply different and what works for one doesn't necessarily work for another one).

[Double 0 Soul]

1 hour ago, beautiful_FrEaK said:

Neal, you are thinking in extremes  

Of course I am.. I was carrying on the theme of unintentional denim comedy 😆

Edited September 26 by Double 0 Soul

[indigoeagle]

What was it at db- British lads comedy hour? 😃

[Double 0 Soul]

5 hours ago, beautiful_FrEaK said:

I am not sure what a picture of Britney with obviously low rise jeans adds to the argument of wearing high rise jeans lower than intended but then I'm not a native speaker as you know so it maybe just went over it head

If higher rise jeans do indeed sag to the point at which you usually wear your jeans..

Britney will be wearing very saggy mum jeans

sorry, I was just being facetious  🤐

[malik]

Theres some method to the madness albeit not willing to put 300 odd dollars on it. 

I've been emailing timeworn re the Atlas cuts and got the following measurements back:
 

Lot 147 size 36 after one wash 

Waist laid flat: ~18
Thigh: ~ 14.3
Front rise: ~14
Knee: ~ 10.8
Hem: ~ 10.3
Inseam ~34.5
Hip 23.5

 

Lot 161 size 36 after one wash 

 

Waist laid flat: ~18

Thigh: ~ 14.5

Front rise: ~14.5

Knee: ~ 10.7

Hem: ~ 10.4

Inseam ~34.5

Hip 21.5

 

Now waiting on the 162 measurements before proceeding. 

[willi]

Does anyone have thoughts about glasses? Frame materials that last and age well? Brands or stores to buy from? I usually get around 2 years out of my glasses before they are trash, would like more. I don't know anything on this subject.

[buler]

I was thinking that a thread dedicated to measurements of make/models would be helpful. I know a lot of stockists have varying size charts. I'm thinking of a thread where you list the make/model/tagged size and measurements. Before and after soak/wash if possible. We could list more than just the normal waist/front rise/thigh/knee/hem. I'd love to see back rise and hip.

The year of production may also be helpful if companies change the cut over time.

I've not actually looked for a search within thread function here. But if that function exists, it would make that thread pretty useful. At least to me.

I also realize that this is posted in many of the brand specific threads.

[smoothsailor]

Saw this

 

[CSL]

11 inch minimum?

I'd say anything under 13 is unacceptable.

[shredwin_206]

12” is the minimum brother