TCB

[erk]

Been out of the game for too long. the denimio charge for $28 hemming is a deal. Thought I could take my jeans to Raleigh Denim to be hemmed but they quit providing the $15 hem service. Took up too much time and heavier jeans much up the machine. Shame on me. 

 

just thought I'd put this out there as a PSA. 

[heavydoom]

hajime would have chain stitched your jeans for free if you had ordered from him yourself. 

[mlwdp]

20 hours ago, erk said:

Been out of the game for too long. the denimio charge for $28 hemming is a deal. Thought I could take my jeans to Raleigh Denim to be hemmed but they quit providing the $15 hem service. Took up too much time and heavier jeans much up the machine. Shame on me. 

 

just thought I'd put this out there as a PSA. 

Hudson Hill in Greensboro does chainstitch hemming.  Great customer service.  I get all my jeans including my unworn 50s and my current SC1947 hemmed and repaired there.  Just make sure you call ahead to confirm someone is there to hem since it's only two people there that can do it.

Edited February 26, 2017 by mlwdp

[erk]

11 hours ago, heavydoom said:

hajime would have chain stitched your jeans for free if you had ordered from him yourself. 

Yeah, well I wanted to try denimio for the free shipping. Ill be paying my $30 punishment anyways.

 

Thanks mlwdp - I've actually been there before. Good to hear a good review about their service. 

Edited February 27, 2017 by erk

[aho]

Mulling around sizing on the 20's, though we're months away from the contest. I wear 34 in Warehouse, 36 in Ooe, had 34's in the 50's I think which were way too small. Is it a true statement that TCB's shrink from tagged size, meaning that I'd need a 36 in the 20's?

[volvo240thebest]

And we're back at it! Sizing!
So I think there's been a lot of misleading talk re sizing for the TCB 50's contest. I'll try to clarify, if I can.
I'd suggest everyone interested to buy a pair of TCB jeans to rely on POST WASH MEASUREMENTS only. Inoue doesn't even want to disclose raw measurements. He did for the last contest, because it was requested and I believe this is what generated a lot of confusion. If you look at the TCB online shop there's only one wash/post wash measurements.
TCB sizing it's true to size, meaning that the jeans after wash and wear will stretch to exact size. There will still be room for a smidgen of further stretch but I would strongly advise against taking that into account when sizing. 60's jeans have a waist measurement slightly over size because they're meant to sit on the hips. 50's have more exact TTS measurements as they're meant to sit on the waist. IIRC my 50's were 35.50 post soak and wash and stretched to 36. Now I'm a bit fatter than my standards and I still can wear them comfortably, I think they stretched another 0.5, out of necessity.

Now onto 20's measurements. As you know I don't yet own a pair BUT from TCB shop measurements and from chats with Inoue I've seen that waist/front size ratio/measurements are almost the same as the 50's.

TCB 50's waist 91 cm front rise 30 cm

TCB 20's waist 91 cm front rise 29.5 cm

I don't own Warehouse jeans but I think I could wear a 34 on most of their cuts if I wanted to. I couldn't wear a 34 on TCB at all though. I think WH is sligtly vanity sized isn't it? Not quite vanity sized as Lee or Edwin, but still a bit over size.

Due the nature of the 20's cut personally I could even size up to 38. It would definitely work better if I wanted to wear the jeans all the time with suspenders, although I think I'd just stick with a 36 as I am not sure I am prepared to rock the suspenders look for 18 months straight.

So if the 50's in a 34 didn't work well you should definitely size up to a 36. You could tighten the cinch a bit when wearing no suspenders or fully [em]brace the geezer look!

Once we'll open the TCB 20s thread I'll do my best to NOT provide raw measurements!

 

[edmond]

I do 34 all wh except the 660 and i do 36 on tcbs 

[volvo240thebest]

^ makes sense

[edmond]

II  can do a 38 too on tcbs when i wash too often. My 50'a fucking shrunk a lot i wash amd wear 

[JDelage]

Our 9-yr old in his first denim jacket, thanks to @erk. Not showing his face, but he was super proud. The sleeves are too long, the rest is just big enough to layer under. This am he wore it over a hoodie.

[volvo240thebest]

damn this is one cool dude for sure!

[erk]

2 hours ago, JDelage said:

Our 9-yr old in his first denim jacket, thanks to @erk. Not showing his face, but he was super proud. The sleeves are too long, the rest is just big enough to layer under. This am he wore it over a hoodie.

yeah!! glad it worked out. 

[aho]

^Awesome, you're raising him right! ;D 

[alvin_cheong]

I'm 30 in warehouse...Inoue suggested I go with a 33 for the 20's. Just tell Inoue your waist measurement and he will suggest the jeans size to you. Hope it helps...

[edmond]

Ibhave to do a 37 on the 20's

[alvin_cheong]

Actually I think the 20's have a lot of brands coming out with this cut, warehouse DD1004xx, Full Count and TCB 20's.

Maybe this will be the year of the 20's cut...

[MJF9]

Long time sufu lurker turned faceless poster. I said I would post a few shots of my new TCB 20s so here they are. Top jeans, enjoying them as a welcome change from slimmer fitting, heavier weight denim. 

With RMC M65, Samurai S522XX, Viberg, lad and Dad scooters!

Edited February 28, 2017 by MJF9

[volvo240thebest]

hey there black block canadian tuxedo terrorist! Perfect fit, totally nailed!

[MJF9]

Ha ha thanks for your help and encouragement Volvo! Long live lighter denim belt loops!

The new question is... with or without braces? This requires some careful reflection...

[volvo240thebest]

I've posted ths before, and will post it again...
the answer is here:

Ignore evey imposed rule of style and follow the example of John here. He wore suspendeers and a belt and no one ever saw his plumbers crack...

[erk]

1 hour ago, MJF9 said:

Ha ha thanks for your help and encouragement Volvo! Long live lighter denim belt loops!

The new question is... with or without braces? This requires some careful reflection...

This question can only be answered by answering this question : how much attention do you want to bring to yourself and your expensive trouser hobbies that few understand? 

Everytime I wore suspenders w my 1915 LVC the "nice suspenders" comments were too much for me. Perhaps I'm weak. 

Withou the braces cinch backs can fly under the radar - with braces you're letting your freaky cinch back flag fly.

[MileHighEvertonian]

So, what then is the chance participants in the 20s contest could order a pair without suspender buttons?

[Broark]

Volvo told me it would be possible, as I'm only really interested if I can get a pair without the suspender buttons!

Edited March 1, 2017 by Broark

[MJF9]

The Duke is taking no chances with his failsafe combo... this guarantees attention. Nice shot Volvo!

I hear you Erk. Double takes from passers by, endless ribbing from mates. However braces can look pretty good. I think one of the issues is getting a pair long enough (for the taller fellas) so that they don't elevate said 20s up to the armpits! The only pair I've touched so far were way too short and super elasticated. Like bungee cords!

Morten at FHUTT does aesthetic braces and will make them bespoke, though not the cheapest trial pair.

[MJF9]

4 hours ago, Broark said:

Volvo told me it would be possible, as I'm only really interested if I can get a pair without the suspended buttons!

They're not really the intended 20s repro though without the buttons. I've got an old pair of LVC 33s with buttons. I managed to wear them with a belt for years. Not ideal but an option.

[Maynard Friedman]

I wore my LVC 1915s for a good few summers using just the cinch and had no problems at all, although I made sure by buying them with a relatively snug waist. I couldn't wear braces as they are far too costumey for my taste (they're not costumey if you like them though) and simply not me at all. The 1915s have no belt loops so that wasn't an option but I would never wear a belt over suspender buttons or even just a cinch, that would feel far too awkward.

I have a pair of Warehouse 415 cinchbacks (same as 700) and plan on adding my press-on LVC suspender buttons and will wear those as summer jeans using just the cinch.

Nice scooter MJF9, I have an adult Micro and zoom around with my kids too, I even used to commute to work on it occasionally!

Edited March 1, 2017 by Maynard Friedman

[volvo240thebest]

46 minutes ago, Maynard Friedman said:

Nice scooter MJF9, I have an adult Micro and zoom around with my kids too, I even used to commute to work on it occasionally!

how hipster of you!
actually the suspender talk made me remember that I still have a nice pair of LVC 333 tucked away somewhere which I never worn because are too big to be worn without braces and have no belt loops. Once I'll get the suspenders for the 20's I'll give them a go, too. Unfortunately I bought them long before my sufu era, and made the big mistake of having them tapered. I wouldn't do that at all now..

[mandel9000]

On 28.2.2017 at 1:01 AM, alvin_cheong said:

I'm 30 in warehouse...Inoue suggested I go with a 33 for the 20's.

Not to derail with sizing issues half a year in advance, and maybe the contest version is sized differently than the size 32 prototype used in the tour, but I'm a 29-30 in Warehouse and they were a couple of sizes too big on me. I tightened the cinch as much as possible to go without a belt, but the whole upper block was very loose. I guess the extra room works well with suspenders though.

I haven't decided yet but if I participate I plan to go with a size 30 (unless I get updated info suggesting otherwise). 

[volvo240thebest]

it would be interesting to compare side by side the contest pair measurements with the definitive sizing chart.

I'll check that out but I believe the 20's tour pair it's a prototype of the definitive cut. I'm inclined to believe that the denim used it's not the definitive one (for sure the selvedge ID it's different).

All I can see by now it's that top block measurements of the 20's are fairly similar to the 50's, so for those who own already a pair of 50's it should be quite easy to size it right.

 

[erk]

When I added the snap on suspender buttons to my 1937s I was quite surprised by how little they interfered with wearing a belt. Something to consider for the 20s TCBs.