TCB

[cottonskinblues]

Hello all,

to anyone familiar with the fit of the TCB seamen trousers… do you know a company that makes a selvedge denim with a similar fit? I am outgrowing all my pants and the only ones left that fit me how I like (loose/straight) are the seamen trousers. The rise on them could be a bit shorter, but I love the wide thighs, which is my biggest issue with jeans these days. 

[Hopethisoneisnttaken]

10 hours ago, cottonskinblues said:

Hello all,

to anyone familiar with the fit of the TCB seamen trousers… do you know a company that makes a selvedge denim with a similar fit? I am outgrowing all my pants and the only ones left that fit me how I like (loose/straight) are the seamen trousers. The rise on them could be a bit shorter, but I love the wide thighs, which is my biggest issue with jeans these days. 

Are you looking for recommendations for wide 5 pocket jeans, or specifically a selvedge version of US Navy trousers (personally I don’t know if the exist)? 

[cottonskinblues]

Yes 5 pocket

[Hopethisoneisnttaken]

12 hours ago, cottonskinblues said:

Yes 5 pocket

Gotcha. So personally I can only vouch for Motor “new vintage” old baggy jeans. They are probably my favorite pair of jeans and for sure the widest I own. They’re currently out of stock but they usually do them every year around spring/summer. Other options I’m aware of are Daweson denim wide cut, Belafonte recently did a fairly wide cut named something “1890” iirc. Also there are the jeans that Minoru from Clinch releases about once year. They are also unavailable now. 
 

Edit: from what I see Tender makes fairly wide jeans as well. 
 

Edit once more: I forgot Black Sign. 
 

there are probably more. 

Edited January 21, 2023 by Hopethisoneisnttaken

[NilsLW]

Quite slow fading on the 505s at roughly 6 months of wear. I've tried to wash these less than my other pairs to achieve higher contrast fades so only 3 washes so far.

Edited January 21, 2023 by NilsLW

[Talan]

On 1/21/2023 at 12:17 AM, Hopethisoneisnttaken said:

Gotcha. So personally I can only vouch for Motor “new vintage” old baggy jeans. They are probably my favorite pair of jeans and for sure the widest I own. They’re currently out of stock but they usually do them every year around spring/summer. Other options I’m aware of are Daweson denim wide cut, Belafonte recently did a fairly wide cut named something “1890” iirc. Also there are the jeans that Minoru from Clinch releases about once year. They are also unavailable now. 
 

Edit: from what I see Tender makes fairly wide jeans as well. 
 

Edit once more: I forgot Black Sign. 
 

there are probably more. 

What about Full Count 0501?

[Hopethisoneisnttaken]

6 hours ago, Talan said:

What about Full Count 0501?

I forgot about them

But I'm not that familiar, how wide are they?

[Talan]

26 minutes ago, Hopethisoneisnttaken said:

I forgot about them

But I'm not that familiar, how wide are they?

https://fullcount.co/collections/denim/products/pre-order-0105-wide-denim-13-7oz

[Hopethisoneisnttaken]

@Talan looking at the size chart, they are not as wide. However it can be a bit misleading since I can’t find anywhere how FC conduct their measurements. The other examples that I gave have around 35 cm thigh at waist 33”, FC have around 31 cm. But again, the measuring method is not specified. 

[Talan]

3 hours ago, Hopethisoneisnttaken said:

@Talan looking at the size chart, they are not as wide. However it can be a bit misleading since I can’t find anywhere how FC conduct their measurements. The other examples that I gave have around 35 cm thigh at waist 33”, FC have around 31 cm. But again, the measuring method is not specified. 

According to the width of the 0501 hem, it should be quite wide. Also, considering how long Tsujita-san searched for the perfect 0501 shape, we can assume that the other measurements are quite consistent. With all that said, I don't want to occupy the TCB thread with discussion of FC item any further... 

[Geeman]

On 1/14/2023 at 6:24 PM, Geeman said:

I see a new model released , might actually be a pair that works for me 

I ended up ordering these. I know I said not a lot exciting me in the denim world at the moment,  but given I like the material and details on TCB but couldn't find a fit that worked and that they actually listened to customer feedback (mine included) I thought why not. 

I know you guys don't go for the slimmer cuts much. 

Ordered Wednesday,  free shipping and came today. 

Ryo said might lose a bit more in length so did a quick wash before hemming.  

Have you guys seen much shrinkage in the 50s denim (OW already)?

Initial thoughts, fit is like WH 900xx but with a tiny bit more taper.....

Edited January 23, 2023 by Geeman

[AlientoyWorkmachine]

Funny - I just put in my first order to TCB. Hope I got it right. 

[vlad_III]

How do TCB seams hold up compared to other repro brands like Warehouse, Fullcount or Freewheelers?

[julian-wolf]

In my experience, much better than Warehouse, a little worse than Freewheelers

[vlad_III]

Good to know. TCB seems so cheap compared to all the others. 
Hear a lot of complaints about warehouse.

[Talan]

1 hour ago, vlad_III said:

[..]
Hear a lot of complaints about warehouse.

This may depend on various factors, such as how caring people are with their denim. I've only had a problem with seams on a WH once, personally fixed it in a couple of minutes, and it was a fun too. Overall, nothing that would turn me away from buying a WH in the future. Some people don't like the durability of the natural cotton thread, but after all, someone might criticize the jeans for the fabric fading out, or roping at the seams. The life of things is short, they do not remain stagnant for a single moment, constantly decaying. The charming fragility of transience 

[vlad_III]

Good points. I’m actually looking for a type 2 jacket. I would guess the seams on a jacket don’t get as much wear anyways. TCBs type two seems much cheaper than all others at 26k yen and it looks really good from what I can tell. 

[AlientoyWorkmachine]

I treat my WH like I do any of my other jeans - the seams definitely have been the quickest to break down. Not a huge deal as I am used to repairing these - eventually happens with all cotton ones if you wear them a bit, but I had one seam go within like a month - the rest made more sense with wear but were still quickish. I am not nearly as hard on my jeans as some here. To me the best part of WH is the denim itself and the styling, and the DD arcs. Maybe in 12-18 months or so I'll have a good TCB comparison. 

The main thing that put me off from TCB in the past were the measurements, but as my tastes have changed some the 20's looked like just want I wanted - we'll see if that's the case when they get here. 

[bartlebyyphonics]

On 1/23/2023 at 7:26 PM, Geeman said:

I ended up ordering these. I know I said not a lot exciting me in the denim world at the moment,  but given I like the material and details on TCB but couldn't find a fit that worked and that they actually listened to customer feedback (mine included) I thought why not. 

I know you guys don't go for the slimmer cuts much. 

Ordered Wednesday,  free shipping and came today. 

Ryo said might lose a bit more in length so did a quick wash before hemming.  

Have you guys seen much shrinkage in the 50s denim (OW already)?

Initial thoughts, fit is like WH 900xx but with a tiny bit more taper.....

I found with the 50s that they would lose length in the wash, but as the fabric relaxed it would come back after a while... love that fabric very much...

hope they work for you!

[Hopethisoneisnttaken]

One of my favorite details about this jacket 

 

[Jimmy Tarbuck]

On 1/4/2023 at 8:01 PM, Ciabatta said:

Are the 50’s wildly undersized in the waist? On TCB’s site it says a tagged 36 has a 32” waist. Is that right?

I've got a pair tagged 40 that measure 37ish laid flat.  Not sure if they'd stretch to tag as I've always needed a belt to keep them up.

[AlientoyWorkmachine]

Just received my 20's and black 30's - first order from TCB. Really pleased with both - more than I'd expected. The cuts were just what I was looking for (it's great to have an unsanforized, cotton stitched fuller fit for black denim - that makes it a bit of a unicorn I couldn't pass up). I'd sort of written them off in the past because the prior charts I'd looked at for the black s40's just didn't compute for me. The black 30's may go in to storage since I've been in my black Indigofera's since Jan 1, but I'll be happy to get to them whenever I do. 

I think the sizing must be closer to that of Ooe - measurements from raw - as opposed to shrinking to tag size. Took a 31 in both (usually a 29 or loose 30), knowing the 20's would be more generous and they're actually pretty close even though TCB says to size up one for the black 30's.

The only (very minor) gripe I've got is that the factory wash seems fairly aggressive - the denim is pretty soft on both. That's not all bad. But raw wasn't an option going in and I went for it anyways.

[Geeman]

Gave mine a wash as Ryo advised there maybe a bit more shrink in the length. Puckering/roping is lovely. I'll get them hemmed when I get home from Milan 

[BionicEye]

[srudy]

@BionicEyeis coming up from behind! Sheer dedication, real nice!

[beanjaro]

Looking for sizing advice for the S40's.

The attached photos are size 31; they seem to fit well, except I am worried about the crotch being too tight. It's slightly uncomfortable there, with a lot of whiskers/tension lines running to the outside of the seat. Does anyone have experience with the amount that these will stretch in the crotch/seat? Should I size up to 32s, or stick with 31s? I am not interested in high contrast fades and will be washing these every 4-6 weeks, depending on use, for longevity's sake.

I already reached out to TCB. Ryo was really helpful, but basically said that I could go either way. Am hoping that the S40 competition crowd or someone else with S40's might have some input. I thought about posting in the S40's competition thread, but figured that wasn't kosher.

[julian-wolf]

Those jeans were aggressively slim in the seat & crotch, no two ways about it

That looks like about as good a fit as you’re likely to get

[AlientoyWorkmachine]

Never tried them but I wanted to - but the math on the top block for my size (also 30/31 for tcb) said it was just not gonna happen. I think those look pretty solid given the cut that they are. 

[Thanks_M8]

Look as good as it gets to me they stretch out heavily in the waist so might sag a bit leading to more room in the seat

[Hopethisoneisnttaken]

Yes. It’s a tight crotch cut. By looking at old pictures I think it’s some what accurate? 
 

anyways - if it’s too tight now I wouldn’t bother. Mine were never uncomfortable. But previous experience with other brands taught me that uncomfortable crotch never gets better. Just worse.