What about Jeans Jackets ....

[vIGGiou riou]

My Studio D'Artisan...

bought 6 years ago in TAKE5. I wore this jacket very rarely. was with me 4 years in south east asia and I used just only when temperature dropped under 25 degrees. No was, just only 3 times topical rain soak when riding motorbike .... now in europe use it more ....

[JDelage]

What is your favorite denim weight for jackets?

[SmokeStackLightning]

4 hours ago, JDelage said:

What is your favorite denim weight for jackets?

12-15 oz, nothing crazy. Can be a stand alone in spring or fall or layered if wanted. 

[Broark]

Somehow I missed this thread, so I'll post my post here!
What denim jackets are you guys into these days? I'm looking for another jacket to add to my rotation.
My climate dictates that I can usually just wear a lighter weight denim jacket and flannel or tee and I'm covered for most of the fall/winter.
My most worn one being my TCB 50's jacket and I also have an IH x Self Edge overdyed type III.
I'm thinking I will go for a type I to complete the trifecta. Although I wouldn't be opposed to another type II to be honest.
I'd love one from Warehouse but I don't think the size 42 would be big enough. Or maybe it could, the measurements don't look too far off from ideal.
Of course I could go for a CSF 406XXX M-46, but the wait time is a bummer and the lack of measurements scare me.
My dream would be for Ooe Yofukuten to make a type I or II! 
Anyways, if there's a brand I'm overlooking for a good type I that comes up to about 46 in. in the chest I'd love suggestions. 

[JDelage]

IH just came out with an indigoxindigo type II which is gorgeous, but maybe too heavy for your taste. As I mention in a different thread, they're working on a modified Type I with the blackxbeige denim, which I'm stocked about (but it's even heavier).

I have a Warehouse Type I with wartime details (no buckle), and I really like it. The pocket is huge and allowed me to carry our family's 4 passports together. I'm not sure how I feel about back buckles & how they might be interacting with furniture, leather seats, and the like...

I'm toying with the idea of commissioning a type-II-with-no-pleats from Viapiana. 

[MJF9]

@Broark funnily enough I've ended up down a denim jacket rabbit hole again recently!! 

Orslow is not for everyone but the new one wash type 1, 2 and 3 look great - crisp, clean, simple.  The type 1 has a nice T back and the weight and sizing should work for you - https://www.thebureaubelfast.com/shop/brand/50/orslow

Another consideration is the Denime 30th anniversary - looks like they have types 2 and 3 in the works... sounds like it'll be the end of the year for these...

I do like the Samurai denim - fades look great on different denims - but the weigh might be too much - I've got a 21oz which is hefty though I have seen some fine looking 16 ozs.

Bowery Blue Makers do a great looking triple pleat - Foxy has one that he's posted on that thread - light weight and bigger sizes - this carries a wait too but looks spot on.

Also maybe there's also a MF ranch blouse out there somewhere!

Edited October 25, 2018 by MJF9

[Foxy2]

Type 1:
Warehouse or CFS.

Earlier than Type 1:
Bowery Blue Maker or LVC.

[bartlebyyphonics]

imma very happy with the lvc type 1 in xl (got it for a good price, then washed it good and hot to get its crinkles), but not for everyone: certainly not 'super exclusive' but really like the denim and simplicity; the body is not lengthened and the arms (and arm pits) are good and baggy

if getting another type 1 i'd def be looking at warehouse tho'

what about heller's cafe and their nonpareil jacket hc-036 as something near the csf open pocket, but with ooe-ish feeling with the details?

https://www.ware-house.co.jp/?pid=65719194

https://www.sonofastag.com/collections/heller-s-cafe/products/hellers-cafe-hc-036-nonpareil-denim-jacket?variant=6999641948213

[Broark]

Warehouse has always been the one that I've wanted to try the most, the sizing just scares me a bit.
I particularly like the DD t-back type I: https://www.ware-house.co.jp/?pid=126012437 
If anyone has their type I or II in size 42 and could provide measurements that would be awesome.
I've never been a big fan of IH's type I / II jackets, something about the pocket placement is off to me.
Orslow isn't a bad call, hadn't thought about their denim jackets too much. Can be a little tough to track down from Japan.
Samurai makes a good jacket but I think they might use denim that's too heavy, at least generally speaking.
That Heller's Cafe jacket is really something else too.
I could also check out the Freewheelers 506xx jackets.
I just wish I had a store near me that carried some of these so I could try them on. 

[Maynard Friedman]

The TCB Type I is great although you may want something different as you already have a TCB Type II.

[Broark]

Yes the 30's jacket is very nice, but I want to branch out since I already have the 50's.

[beautiful_FrEaK]

Stevenson Overall Co?
http://www.soc-la.com/item.php?c=1616

[Broark]

Definitely had my eye on the Saddle Horn jacket too, just have to decide if I want to go traditional or with someone a bit more unique.

[Geeman]

Considering selling my lightly worn 3sixteen shadow selvedge type 3 after finally admitting it's a bit snug!  Ant sufu'ers intrested let me know before it goes on the usual sites..

Size M.

[Mr Black]

'37 Lee cowboy perhaps?

[bartlebyyphonics]

1 hour ago, Mr Black said:

'37 Lee cowboy perhaps?

oh yes, total agreement; one of dr heech's favourite? 

but then, for now: lee archives or the at last & co interpretation?

 

[Paul T]

THis is the last of my Type Threes to go (erk got my best one in a trade). PM me if you want a discount from eBay price. The 60s originals seem to have gone down in price since LVC, I remember you would always pay £100 for these, now they regularly pop up for significantly less.




 

[bartlebyyphonics]

^ looks like a real beauty

back to Broark's search for the perfect type I

in a roundabout way...

thought I wld post this fragment from an elliot erwitt pic from the 50s

then some favourite bits and bobs from the lightning vintage workwear catalogue which I recently got my hands on (after mjf9's use of it to date... thought its-a-must-have!)

a pre-type I, a 30s carhartt, a two pocket war-time lee - beauts all

[Broark]

I think in all likelihood I might just go the CSF route.
What I really wish is that Konaka-san would sell me one of those WH collaboration jackets that he made. But I messaged him some time ago and never heard back.
That being said the WH, Lee '37 and OrSlow options all give me reason to think harder about it.
Who makes the best Lee '37 repro? At Last & Co? I like the acorn shaped pocket.
 

[MJF9]

Quick photo bomb building on recent denim jacket cogitation.
Got these two in the post on Friday, courtesy of The Bureau whose service is definitely recommended.
Orslow type 3 in sizes 4 and 5 for comparison. 
On the fence overall, imagined a flatter denim with smoother hand. Would need to cogitate further on which fit works best.
Thought I'd post given the Orslow appreciation in the house and a chance to see close up (in so far as my phone photos allow).
Noting @Paul T's superb type 3 above.

[JDelage]

Who makes the best Lee Rider-inspired jacket in your opinion? SDA is just releasing one with Denimio. Not sure I like the pocket flaps:

https://www.denimio.com/d4128-50-s-western-denim-jacket.html

I like the IH version, but I don't think I need to buy a 3rd denim jacket in 2 weeks... Plus, they don't have my size in stock right now.

https://www.ironheart.co.uk/jackets/ih-101j.html

[Foxy2]

the Denimio/SDA collaboration is based on SDA's blanket lined model which is cut with very broad shoulders - I would not be surprised if it wouldn't work without the lining...

Warehouse and Samurai make/have made nice edition, too.

as this is usually a shorter cut jacket type, Japanese versions can turn out even shorter for us.

[bartlebyyphonics]

@MJF9 - what is your cogitation? sz4 looks better in pics, but is sz5 more comfortable on shoulders whilst the arms too wide?

i am no expert in type III fits, but the arms remind me more of a type I?

interesting to see the liveliness of the hand is continuing into other models...

 

Edited October 31, 2018 by bartlebyyphonics

[MJF9]

@bartlebyyphonics ditto no expert in type 3s but always imagine a slim fit all round (had a slim one some time back that I liked so think of that (ahem cough cough Dries Van Noten)).

Regarding fit...  I think a mix of dimensions would be ideal, but always open to other opinions, i.e. 
4 fits good on shoulders, length good however probably too tight on chest and lower back.
5 a little big on shoulders, a tad long with a tad much back room, but chest good.

Well... I hadn't even thought about the arms! Good spot and, now you mention it, I agree but think I could live with it. Would be good to compare other brands now though.

Comments from type 3 experts out there gratefully received!

It's a shame the atom has been split already, otherwise, we, on this forum could do it together!

Fwiw the above is with only a tee so a thicker top would give a better fit on the 5 and make the 4 too tight.

The fabric... is decent, ok, would be interesting to see how it develops... (I tried to tut and ignore the in-house comment of 'has it been washed with a tissue').

To your liveliness point... while I was cogitating away, an At Last jacket appeared out of the blue as if by magic diverting my attention... I'd given up hope... so that's now on it's way... it's hard not to flit about when the choices out there are so good

So... type 3 now on ice, to be  picked up again soon though...

Edited October 31, 2018 by MJF9

[bartlebyyphonics]

^ keep searching those ever greener fields...

fwiw certain of my jackets are also only to have tees underneath: I haven't found a shirt I love as much as a jacket... so some serve that purpose instead...

[my search now is the perfect flannel jacket-shirt...]

good luck with the At Last!

[Paul T]

It's interesting how some folk are using super springy, fluffy fabric for a Type 3. I actually really like the flatness of the original, Sanforized denim. I swapped a sawtooth shirt and almost unwashed Type 3 with Erk... the fabric on the latter is fantastic - but very smooth. Unfortunately I didn't have decent photos, hopefully he'll post them soonish.

Here's a cuff detail from the one above.

[bartlebyyphonics]

oooo yes please: sufu calling @erk for that...

[erk]

I’ll try and take some real pics this weekend  

Edited November 1, 2018 by erk

[Paul T]

don't be rushed! hope the family are well!

[eeejayaich]

4 hours ago, bartlebyyphonics said:

^ keep searching those ever greener fields...

fwiw certain of my jackets are also only to have tees underneath: I haven't found a shirt I love as much as a jacket... so some serve that purpose instead...

[my search now is the perfect flannel jacket-shirt...]

good luck with the At Last!

Agreed. While not a type 3, I have a Lee repro that only fits a T-shirt underneath and others for layering. 

Edited November 1, 2018 by eeejayaich