Tender Co. Denim

[Denimstoyevsky]

Hi, I'm sure it's been posted on the thread before, but the search function doesn't go past page 98. 

I'm wondering if anyone has measurements for 132 and 130 in size 3. Trying to decide between the two models. 

Saw a guy here in Berlin wearing a busted out pair of Tenders the other day and now I want a pair myself

[AlientoyWorkmachine]

5 hours ago, Denimstoyevsky said:

Hi, I'm sure it's been posted on the thread before, but the search function doesn't go past page 98. 

I'm wondering if anyone has measurements for 132 and 130 in size 3. Trying to decide between the two models. 

Saw a guy here in Berlin wearing a busted out pair of Tenders the other day and now I want a pair myself

I'd just email @rodeo bill - he's always super helpful. 

[rodeo bill]

thanks @Denimstoyevskyand @AlientoyWorkmachine!

Please do email me if you'd like information generally, but in the meantime here are some measurements for 130 and 132 size 3. I always like to give measurements of the actual garment that someone's interested in, as there are differences between fabrics and dyes, but this should give a pretty good idea. These are for rinsed or dyed jeans- Unborn denim arrives a lot larger and will shrink down with a first wash, you don't need to size up.

130 size 3:

Waist: 33"
Front Rise: 11.5"
Back Rise: 15"
Thigh (3” down from crotch): 11.75"
Hem: 7.5"
Inseam: 36"

132 size 3:

Waist: 33"
Front Rise: 11.5"
Back Rise: 15"
Thigh (3” down from crotch): 12.5"
Hem: 8.5"
Inseam: 36"

For good measure, here's 125 also size 3:

Waist: 33"
Front Rise: 11.75"
Back Rise: 15.5"
Thigh (3” down from crotch): 12"
Hem: 8.5"
Inseam: 36"

I hope this helps! Apologies for the lack of updates lately, it's been a very busy few months. For a start, though, here are some sunshiny photos of my own 125s:

[sven]

@rodeo bill
Oh man, those are looking amazing!
Hoping to pick up a pair of Tender's as my next jean. Second Sunrise said they will get a batch of the oxfords this fall, which is the pair I’m most interested in. But you should convince them to go for the 125 as well IMO, it looks fantastic.

[rodeo bill]

thank you @sven! I'm sure Douglas'll be happy to help you with some 136s, and I'll let him know he has a customer also interested in some 125s :-)

[Denimstoyevsky]

Thx, @rodeo bill. Those measurements are super helpful. I was looking to buy a pair in rinsed denim, so these were perfect for me. 

Just one more question. I see by the measurements that the 130 and 132 are basically identical in the top block... So if I was looking to get a pair w about a 31" inseam and around an 8/8.5" hem, I should go w the 132, correct? 

Also, what is the waist measurement of a size 2? 

Thanks in advance. 

Edited July 15, 2022 by Denimstoyevsky

[rodeo bill]

thanks for this @Denimstoyevsky. Hemmed to a 31" inseam you're going to lose some of the taper, so 130 will be closer to 8" and 132 will be more like 9". Other than the leg taper 130 and 132 are very similar, although there's a bit more room in the seat of 132s (it doesn't come out in measurements, but it's to do with the way the hips and yoke are cut). I hope that makes sense, please do email me or let me know here if you need more info.

Edit- just seen your query about size 2. There's 2" between sizes, and size 2 is ~31" waist

Edited July 15, 2022 by rodeo bill

[Thanks_M8]

@rodeo bill have you ever used british denim in your clothes?

[rodeo bill]

On 7/25/2022 at 5:42 PM, Thanks_M8 said:

@rodeo bill have you ever used british denim in your clothes?

Thanks for this. The standard selvage denim for jeans is Japanese (woven to my spec), but all other fabrics are woven in the UK. There have been various different indigo cotton fabrics, more or less denim, used for different garments over the years. I'm trying to add more fabric stories to the website when I have time, but there are quite a few listed if you scroll all the way down to the bottom of the homepage, such as Weaver's Blanket Denim which switches from left hand twill to right hand twill and back in very wide bands, so that most garments will have a random twill change somewhere on them.

There was a lightweight 10oz Cross Weave denim (woven sideways with an indigo weft on an ecru warp) which I did jeans in as well as shirts, but I only have a single pair (129s, size 6) left of. The main British-woven denim I've made jeans from, though, is the very heavy 19oz Cross Weave Denim, which I have in a good range of jeans and some coats where the indigo weft is contrasted with stripes of Ryeland wool.

All the British indigo fabrics are woven with the same cotton indigo yarn which the Japanese denim is woven with, from the same Japanese spinners. A lot the character of a fabric is in the yarn, especially with indigo, and it's a really special one (ring spun, rope dyed 25 dips), so the British fabrics will fade just as nicely as the Japanese selvage.

[Georg]

I happened to come across a Tender shirt type 480.
Can anyone give me any information on it? Season? Material? Anything special?
Thank you!

 

 

 

Edited July 27, 2022 by Georg

[rodeo bill]

Thanks for this @Georg! Lovely to see this shirt again- there weren't many made. It's from Autumn/Winter 2014 and it's made from the same cotton calico as Butterfly Shirts and various others. This particular version was garment-bleached, in an attempt to make it white rather than ecru, although I seem to remember it didn't work terribly well!

The idea of this shirt (and its companions the 980 jacket and 985 double breasted overcoat (which I still have in stock- it's a really special garment) was to form the angled shoulder by darting the fabric from the shoulder to the neck, with a wide tuck taken out at the shoulder angling to a smaller one at the neck. The front and back are cut from a single long strip of fabric and the front placket and back inlay are the same selvage line. Because the front plackets overlap (where they button up) the back inlay has be extra wide to balance it, and this inlay is sewn down, forming the 'spine' that you see on the back of the shirt.

Here's the page from the linebook that I made at the time:

[Georg]

Dear @rodeo bill, thank you very much for all the interesting information about this shirt. It is still in best condition, also still mostly pure white.
Nevertheless, I play with the idea to dye it, if that is not sacrilegious. maybe blue. Any recommendations? 

[rodeo bill]

Thanks for this @Georg and that sounds great! Of course not sacrilegious, I love it when people dye or adapt Tender garments, it makes them all the more special. Natural blues are a bit tricky- indigo is a fun process to try and you can find kits online, but if you prefer something simpler then I always fine Dylon home dye kits which you do in the washing machine to work very well. In any case your shirt is 100% cotton, as is the sewing thread, so you should find that it dyes very well. Please post some pictures if you decide to give it a go!

[Toegun]

@rodeo bill are you going to make any larger sizes of the TYPE 134S STRAIGHT CUT TREWS SHORTS? I was looking at the TYPE 140 CROSS CUT TREWS SHORTS but as I use both back pockets to keep my bits and pieces like wallet and keys its a bit of a no for me. Plus what is the measurements for a size 5 and size 6? Thanks.

[rodeo bill]

thanks for this @Toegun, I'm afraid I don't have any more shorts coming through this year. The 140 shorts are really lovely, but they do come up quite slim, and vary a bit by fabric. Would you mind emailing me to let me know which version(s) you're interested in? Then I'll give you full measurements with pleasure. Thanks again!

[julian-wolf]

Hey @rodeo bill—I saw your post on Instagram featuring the yoke pocket shirt in the cotton / mohair fabric, which seems like a really great combination. Will something like this be getting released eventually, or was this just a one-off?

[rodeo bill]

On 9/4/2022 at 9:54 PM, julian-wolf said:

Hey @rodeo bill—I saw your post on Instagram featuring the yoke pocket shirt in the cotton / mohair fabric, which seems like a really great combination. Will something like this be getting released eventually, or was this just a one-off?

Thanks a lot @julian-wolf. I've had a couple of enquiries about this shirt, I should have been more careful! This was an option in the original AW19 production, but I'm afraid I don't have any left in stock. I do have a very nice 456 Janus Shirt in the same fabric (and the same fit, just different pocket layout), and I have a couple of other fabrics in stock in the Yoke Pocket Shirt, but I'm not planning to remake this exact version I'm afraid. Sorry not to be able to help more, and thanks again.

[MJF9]

Type 743 pullover hanging on the line to dry

[AnOldFolkSong]

@rodeo billHave you considered applying for a royal warrant?

[rodeo bill]

On 10/3/2022 at 11:30 AM, AnOldFolkSong said:

@rodeo billHave you considered applying for a royal warrant?

Thanks for this, and to be honest, no I haven't. I do like the ceremony and tradition in seeing warrants on things (and when I spent time in Henry Poole, on Savile Row, it was exciting seeing stuff made for the royal family, and the warrant shield up on the wall), but I'm not sure that I'd want Tender to be a current part of that world. More to the point, though, I'm not sure my things would be relevant to, or suitable for, a royal warrant- I believe warrants are issued to manufacturers, more than brands or designers. But thank you, it's a lovely suggestion! 

In the meantime, I've been wearing my Bold Indigo Weaver's Blanket Stripe trews daily for the last few months, and generally over the past 3? years or so, and I realised today how much the bias fabric has shaped and softened. They're slow faders, but the different twill patterns in the stripes (alternating right hand, broken, left hand, and plain weave) have really taken on a lot of character:

In other news, we've just set up a mailing list for a newsletter that I'll send out every now and again. I'm planning to write a bit about design processes that go into specific garments, and be able to bridge across styles from different seasons that we have in stock on the Tender Stores. A lot of attention goes on new things, but a nice part of having a site where old stock sits alongside new styles is that you can see connections between different productions, and different garments. 

If anyone fancies signing up you can click https://www.tenderstores.com/?subscribe=display or go to tenderstores.com and scroll down to the footer where there's a 'Mailing List' button.

Edited October 10, 2022 by rodeo bill

[discop]

beautiful

[rodeo bill]

^many thanks @discop. Speaking of beautiful, here is one of the very first pieces of the 900 jacket, from 2010, worn and repaired over the last decade by @gregd. I particularly love the fade on the right shoulder, and the corresponding wear to the yoke seam, presumably from a shoulder bag.

[julian-wolf]

Picked up the new Type 452 Bridge Pocket Square Tail Shirt, and I think it’s my favorite so far—could easily see wearing this every week year round

It’s cut a little bigger than usual, especially in the arms (or maybe the Cotton Casement just shrank much less than other fabrics), which works great for me: just the right middle-ground to be able to easily wear with or without a sweater / sweatshirt underneath. It’s also probably the shortest shirt I’ve seen from Tender, in the body, which I think makes it a lot more versatile, at least in the context of my personal style

[AlientoyWorkmachine]

Double post but I keep coming back to my Tender 129 jeans - going on 2.5 yrs of sporadic wear in a rotation of 4-5 jeans, but probably my most consistently worn during that period. I keep almost pulling the trigger on new stuff from William but I think really I will wait til these need a few more repairs (I've redone quite a few stitches at this point, but I find these jeans quite easy to repair with my limited skills) and then just get a looser cut for next time, probably in the same woad if it's available whenever that happens. I will keep these around hopefully for a long time to come because I do like this cut, just have been going looser in most things these days. 

I've had a good bit of different denims at this point and I think this might be my favorite. It's pretty uniform but at the same time just gets great color and importantly for me, is the longest I've ever had jeans go without need crotch darning - and no signs of it, even with the slimmer fit. It is some really durable denim. 

[mondo]

^ @AlientoyWorkmachine, every word of that could be applied to my 129s – particularly regarding repairs. If I'd had a yoke problem on any other pair, I would have assumed it was all over. These, you can have a crack at and it becomes part of the charm. I had set mine aside for a couple of years but was recently pleasantly surprised to find they fit me as I remembered... then I found a new pair I'd had stashed away (lucky eBay find, I think.. unusual here in Australia). Happy days! I, too, would go for a looser fit if I were buying another pair, but I'm larger and heavier – you definitely rock these as they're intended

[rodeo bill]

@julian-wolf thank you so much, and I'm really pleased you're enjoying your Bridge Pocket shirt- as you say it's wider and shorter than some other styles (all the fabrics are pretty much the same) and wears really nicely oversized. I'd love to see photos!

@AlientoyWorkmachine and @mondo I'm delighted your 129s are wearing well, this is so great to hear, and AW your's are looking lovely. I dug my own 129s out recently- they're a bit tight on me at the moment, but it's a great fit. Maybe they'll get some more time in the new year.

For now, though, most of AW22 is in and arriving with stockists. There's a new coat style, the 953 Double Breasted Split Back Coat, in a particularly lovely fabric:

here's a (beautifully laid out, as always) page from The Complete Imbiber 5, from 1961 (worth seeking out! lovely books about booze), mentioning the etymology of the word grog. Hence the development and name of this horizontally ribbed (gross grain) fabric on a fine ecru cotton warp with a fat natural Herdwick wool weft.

here is is on the loom:

and here it is in a coat, dyed with chlorophyll:

 

 

[merzbot]

Bump!

These are my 129 Rinsed (washed infrequently)  and 132X Unborn (washed frequently). Both size 5 and they each have about 3.5 cumulative years of wear. Plus some quick snaps of a 202 Hook Buckle Belt. 

(The order seems to have gotten jumbled, pardon!)

[rodeo bill]

gorgeous @merzbot! Thank you.

I'm so sorry for the lack of posts in the last few weeks, the end of the year was very busy, and I've had a couple of weeks off. Happy new year and I hope everyone had a lovely holidays. 

To get them on the record, a new pair for 2023, now about a month old. More as things progress:

 

[AlientoyWorkmachine]

What fit this time @rodeo bill ?

[rodeo bill]

12 hours ago, AlientoyWorkmachine said:

What fit this time @rodeo bill ?

something new! but as far as can be seen in this photo, 132. I'm hoping to get these into production later in the Spring- more then