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Roy. (expurgated edition)

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I totally understand what you mean mpukas. 

I’m not sure if this is what he means, but I have a pair of lvc 37’s that I gave a warm soak, and then after drying I gave a hot wash and dried them in the machine, and now the denim is bumpy for lack of a better term. The denim was smooth pre wash, much like the black seed denim, but now it’s like the fabric kind of knotted up in certain areas. I can take a picture later today. I’m thinking it has to do with the tension in the fabric Roy spoke of.

it would be great if someone else can shed some light on this.

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2 hours ago, heyson said:

When I spoke to Roy through email about the Test Lot R01's, he told me not to go crazy trying to get shrinkage right off the bat. Give an initial rinse and wear until broken in totally (6-9 months) and then machine wash warm. That was his exact advice. He said that there is tension in the fabric that needs to relax through wear, and if machine washed too early it will mess up the denim. I'm not entirely sure, but like I said that was his word.

That is very interesting. Can anyone around here attest to their Blackseed denim being adversely-affected by frequent washing in the first 6-9 months? I would be concerned about movement of fades from shrinkage if the jeans were first washed after almost a year of frequent wear.

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16 minutes ago, mpukas said:

Roy has told me this, too. I don't understand what he means by "mess up" the denim. He actually wanted me to send him back a pair of Memorial's for a refund that were too big instead of washing & drying to shrink them. He has his recommendations, and I wouldn't argue with him. I've washed mine 2-3 times before wearing them, and I don't think that I've "messed up" the denim. To me the denim shrinks so much that I want to get all the shrink out up front. 

@mpukas I'd prefer to remove as much shrinkage as possible as well, at least before fades start showing up to the point they could shift noticeably after washing.

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I could see that tension in the weave could cause some bunching when shrunken. A few years / several pairs ago I started hot-steam ironing my jeans after the first couple of washes. It gets out the inevitable creases that come from any type of washing, and I get the selvedge outseam to lie flat. But primarily it gets the denim to relax and drape better. Even after a couple of washes without wearing (sanforized or unsanforized), new denim is stiff. After wearing for some time and breaking them in, I only iron if there are creases left from washing. Ironing inside out will prevent any sheen on the face, but I don't worry about that much. Some may find this excessive, but I enjoy doing it. 

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I am curious about the nature of the blackseed denim that may differ from denim used by makers who rigorously one-wash their jeans before they see any wear from their future owners. My understanding is that many of the one-wash models sold by Japanese denim makers have been put through a washing and drying process at the beginning of their life that is pretty harsh, removing nearly all shrinkage, and they seem to avoid any serious issues. 

Edited by Dreigh

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just give it another hot wash and you should be good. It won't harm the denim.

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On 7/14/2019 at 1:55 PM, heyson said:

I totally understand what you mean mpukas. 

I’m not sure if this is what he means, but I have a pair of lvc 37’s that I gave a warm soak, and then after drying I gave a hot wash and dried them in the machine, and now the denim is bumpy for lack of a better term. The denim was smooth pre wash, much like the black seed denim, but now it’s like the fabric kind of knotted up in certain areas. I can take a picture later today. I’m thinking it has to do with the tension in the fabric Roy spoke of.

it would be great if someone else can shed some light on this.

Bunched up, do you mean like a seersucker fabric? Without the pattern obviously

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It’s more like there are snags in the denim. It’s hard to capture in photos, but I think you can see it here.

A9E822BE-F536-44A6-8650-F97EE00F1609.jpeg

9D9CEF55-FCE2-4E98-BB5C-C28CAB8C6BBD.jpeg

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the fit on those RT2's looks great!

might someone be inclined to trade his pair of RT2 size 30 or 31 for a size 30 Peanut pants, then I'll gladly cooperate

 

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@SLAB Thanks very much! I'm loving them thus far, I don't know how Roy does it, but the fit in the top block is without equal.

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Oh, and if anyone has a pair of Roy All Ducks in size 31 or 32 that they would be willing to sell, I'm in the market. Open to both used and on-ice pairs!

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21 hours ago, heyson said:

It’s more like there are snags in the denim. It’s hard to capture in photos, but I think you can see it here.

A9E822BE-F536-44A6-8650-F97EE00F1609.jpeg

9D9CEF55-FCE2-4E98-BB5C-C28CAB8C6BBD.jpeg

I've had Levi's 501 STF do this before, the ones that were ~$35 on sale. I have no idea what caused it.

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13 minutes ago, Muck Dynasty said:

I've had Levi's 501 STF do this before, the ones that were ~$35 on sale. I have no idea what caused it.

Did you give a hot wash or dry early on?

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3 hours ago, heyson said:

Did you give a hot wash or dry early on?

Hot soak 45-1hr before wear and hang dry. I'm pretty sure they showed up after some wear too. These were the dark STF with dark stitching, not the standard indigo denim. I just looked at them again after about a year of not seeing them at all. The little neps have faded a little, and I am getting some fading, something I thought would never actually happen with this color.

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My pair of memorial jeans turned up to be too loose everywhere except for the waist when i first got it. It got a 1hr warm soak which made it shrink a bit. After every month of wear it got a hand wash which didnt seem to shrink it further significantly. At the 3rd or 4th month is was raining a bit so I had to use a machine wash and a drier. This gave it quite a big shrinkage, around 1+ inch in the hem. Subsequent trips to the drier hasnt made it shrink further. My jeans, now at 8 months, is still smooth.

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I feel like my Memorial Jeans are just hitting that sweet spot. In for another wash they go.
Also re: Roy's washing/care suggestions. I've never adhered to them myself. I'm definitely a throw-'em-in-the-wash-whenever guy just so I don't have to think about shrinkage down the road. 
That being said I'm tempted to try it out on my unsoaked/unworn Test Lot R01's whenever they get their time in the sun...
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I am wrapping up my KS1002/RT1002 rotation soon and have a perhaps overly ambitious plan of comparing 4 pairs of black seed by doing one pair frequent wash and dryer (test lot R01,) one pair my normal routine with initial hot wash to get shrink out and regular cold washes every 3 months or so (regular R01,) one pair with his site instructions 15 minute initial lukewarm soak hand washed sparingly (Test lot 00 pair,) and one worn raw for as long as possible, which I believe is his preference (no pair currently on hand, but hopefully he does another round of the new RT cut)...so check back here in 10 years or so for the results. I definitely respect and understand his appreciation for the properties of unwashed, loom state denim and am looking forward to wearing a pair that way, but I think losing a bit of that in exchange for getting the shrink out of the way up front is reasonable for many people and in no way ruins the jeans from my experience. 

 

 

Edited by TheEscapist
typo

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Post wash.
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I’d buy ‘em but I already have a pair. :D

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I bid. They're a little small for me but I have been losing weight. Wish me luck :)

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It is killing me to selling it but it is so small on me now. 

 

To ease the pain I found a heavy denim shirt on Grailed that will fit perfectly!

Edited by eeejayaich

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Before I waste my time and give these a hot wash any chance someone has a size 32 in the White Oak Commemorative farewell pair that they'd trade for my size 33? Cold soaked, waist hot soaked, worn once, cuffed once. I accidentally messed up the top of the patch hot soaking but it's still there.

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These will keep on shrinking for several soaks / washes.

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