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gimmegimme

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What do you like about the 17 oz. zero denim?

 

I am really interested because I too have a pair of the black shadows AND I am still on the fence about these even though I've put as much wear into mine (in approx 3 months). That is: although I love the fit of the 710 cut and these are living up to the fast fading properties Sami's are known for, I am having a tough time liking the soft sweater like weave. I wish they'd calm down and look like denim already.

Can you explain what you mean by soft sweater like weave? I thought I had read the zero denim was pretty rough.

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yeah ok...compared to that you are right :D

 

But then I was already surprised that Big increased their prices when the Yen lost 30% of its value (ok..compared to the Euro but it should also have lost against the $).

 

I think only IHUK reduced their prices because of this and...may SE did too?

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Can you explain what you mean by soft sweater like weave? I thought I had read the zero denim was pretty rough.

unevenness from knots of weft poking inconsistently through warp coupled with hairy cotton fiber throughout. Maybe it's because of the black warp on top of the bright white weft, the black zero denim visually reminds me of a sweater. Even from a few feet away. I am still hoping that it will turn a flatter grey and less hairy overtime.

Here is a macro pic of the black zero denim from BiG:

sam-blackshadow-marco.jpg

I've owned Sams in 17 oz. Zero and 15 oz. Texas cotton and both are made from long fibrous cotton and have an inconsistent weave. I’d argue that the denim is rather soft BUT never smooth or stiff. That is, when you lightly run your hand over the fabric. With constant coarse rubbing over the skin these denims feels like a subtle rug burn, which IMHO is what people interpret as "rough." This is probably why people initially get localized abrasion and quicker indigo loss from Sams and PBJs.

Edited by Al6ert
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What do you like about the 17 oz. zero denim?

 

I am really interested because I too have a pair of the black shadows AND I am still on the fence about these even though I've put as much wear into mine (in approx 3 months). That is: although I love the fit of the 710 cut and these are living up to the fast fading properties Sami's are known for, I am having a tough time liking the soft sweater like weave. I wish they'd calm down and look like denim already.

 

The more I see the XX 19 oz. denim on sufu, the more I think that's the Samurai denim I'd rather spend my time with. Unfortunately, I don't think they do the xx denim, in black, and in the 710 cut. I believe they had something similar for the Black Knights (which I missed copping way back when).

 

I really like this jean as an entire package.  The details, the hardware, the cut and the denim.  I actually like the unevenness of this denim.  It's not as uneven as my PBJ's but definitely not smooth.  I feel smooth black denim looks a little boring.  Lastly these jeans are really comfortable to wear.

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I really like this jean as an entire package.  The details, the hardware, the cut and the denim.  I actually like the unevenness of this denim.  It's not as uneven as my PBJ's but definitely not smooth.  I feel smooth black denim looks a little boring.  Lastly these jeans are really comfortable to wear.

 

yeah, i really dig the cut, the hardware, and the black stitching throughout. 

 

regarding the denim, this has been my experience too...After initially wearing them for two weeks straight, the roughness from the fibers that create that "rug burn" sensation seemed to wear away and they are now quite soft all around. I even hiked over 10 miles in them the other day.

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AndyK, I don't own any Samurais, so I may not be the best person to answer this, but a good place to start would be the 15th anniversary models.  Either that or search this thread until you see something that you like.  

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this is actually wrong. As long as you believe in all the descriptions flying around. The trait of the Texas Cotton is, that is has rather short fibers making it a rougher denim

I am assuming Texas cotton is something like the first pictured

cotton-staple.jpg

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this is actually wrong. As long as you believe in all the descriptions flying around. The trait of the Texas Cotton is, that is has rather short fibers making it a rougher denim

 

color me corrected.

 

It must be the Zimbabwe cotton that is known for having long fibers && therefore soft characteristics. At first that makes sense, but didn't IH stop using Zimbabwe cotton and go to American cotton. I don't think that anyone even noticed a difference in their fabrics. Maybe, the overall feel of the cotton is more a function of the manufacturing processes.

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Samurai S5000vx 25oz 15th Anniversary, Size 30

 

Decided to do a wash after little more than 5.5 months. Did a 60 degree Celsius machine wash and got a tighter fit, especially in the top block (expected since I didn’t soak the top block at the beginning). They did hold on to the color surprisingly well, not much of a difference in the overall color.

 

Had trouble photographing them though, when I did the before pictures I had daylight and for the after shots it was just not possible. So I did two after shots, with and without flash. But I do think that the flash photos resemble the daylight photos the best. My photo skills obviously are not the best.

 

Here are the measurements (size 30), before and after wash. Note though, that I stretched the waist and inseam when wet.

 

MeasurementsEdit_zpsba673537.jpg

 

 

HC-SF-103-07-1_zps2226d1d6.jpg

 

HC-SF-103-07-2_zps3e3099a4.jpg

 

IMG_3353_zpsf0b736da.jpg

Edited by mange
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Hey all,  Been a lurker here for quite a while, doing some Sam research.  Well time has come to ask you gents a question.  Currently im in a pair of Iron Heart 364s',  and im looking for someting a little more slim in the leg opening.  Im a true waist 35 so beautiful_FrEaK's fit gudie has been invaluable.  At the moment im torn between the 710 and the 0500.  Now as far as denim weight between the 15 and the 19oz what is going to be more comfortable in the Texas heat?  Is the 19oz a breathable weave similar to the IH 21oz?  Also as far as leg openings go, im looking for a post soak right around 8" and I fear the 0500 may wind up fitting too close to my 634's.

 

anyway this is my first pair of Sams and my first real unsanforized pair also,  So i look forward to everyones opinons and advice.

 

Thanks,  Ross

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^^ 710 is universally flattering, but you should expect the upper block to be much more constrained. size up one from 634 tagged size (or at least this was the case for me for 31 IH / 32 Sam), but double check size chart...keeping in mind shrinkage from unsanforized denim. That IH flagship denim is very breathable. I don't think that you should expect this from any version of 710's. If "breath-ability" is a concerned, I would shy away from most heavy weight denim.

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I appreciate everyones advice on this.  The weight i can deal with cause 100 deg is freaking hot no matter what you are wearing.  But heres how i figure my fit and correct me if im wrong.  My waist measures 35",  im actually in a 32 on my 634's but they are stretched to 34.5 and the thighs are right at 13 and comfy.  Waist is a little tight and i just figured i should stick TTS and go with the 35's. 

 

Should i go up to a 36 possibly?

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I wear a W32 in IH-634S - I was able to wear a W31 in the world tour IH-634S because it was well worn in - I wear a W32 in almost all Samurai cuts (especially, the more recent lots), but I always stretch them out after soaking while wet/damp - my true waist should also be in the range of 33.5-34.5".

Personally, I would go with with W32 or W33, but not much higher...

(The above refers to Samurai denim in the range of 15-19oz - I have not been wearing any of their 21-24-25oz denim.)

Edited by Foxy2
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I appreciate everyones advice on this.  The weight i can deal with cause 100 deg is freaking hot no matter what you are wearing.  But heres how i figure my fit and correct me if im wrong.  My waist measures 35",  im actually in a 32 on my 634's but they are stretched to 34.5 and the thighs are right at 13 and comfy.  Waist is a little tight and i just figured i should stick TTS and go with the 35's. 

 

Should i go up to a 36 possibly?

 

I can squeeze into my 634 SB in 32 as well, but they're super tight. However, I wear all samurais in 34 and stretch all my pairs to 35-36. So I am a true 35 as well. I suppose 34 could be perfect for you.For a more relaxed fit, try 35. But I think 36 is way too big if you got a 634 in 32 that fits. The 19 oz denim is very breathy and even if it softens up, it stays heavy (just noticing from switching between the UES and 500XX). I think the 0500 is your best choice or the lighter 710 collabs with big.

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I appreciate everyones advice on this.  The weight i can deal with cause 100 deg is freaking hot no matter what you are wearing.  But heres how i figure my fit and correct me if im wrong.  My waist measures 35",  im actually in a 32 on my 634's but they are stretched to 34.5 and the thighs are right at 13 and comfy.  Waist is a little tight and i just figured i should stick TTS and go with the 35's. 

 

Should i go up to a 36 possibly?

 

If your 634s stretched to 34.5" then that IS what you want to shoot for. IMHO you'll want to size down by 2" in the waist (after shrinkage is out), because this is what you'll get back from stretching. You'll know you got it right when buttoning them up. Top button should be initially difficult to get together. They should be able to stretch quickly to your target size and be comfortable.

 

Quickly looking at the size chart from BiG tells me that you should be a tagged size 33 in 710xx. Pre-soak waist = 34", Post-soak should be 34 * (95% of 34) = 32.3". They should stretch to 34.3". If your 634S' are uncomfortably tight, then going up one size would be appropriate. Just be aware that these are gonna be tighter in the thigh. I'd take MaxPows suggestion regarding the XX denim (the vx breathes pretty well too), but I think that the 0500 fit will be too full in the leg for you, especially if you are looking for a more fitted look through the leg.

Edited by Al6ert
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