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Posted

Hey guys. I'm really keen on getting a pair of Samurai 25oz - either the S5000VX 25oz 15th or the S510XX 25oz 15th that Pirates recently listed. I have no experience with Samurai, so I have some questions about how they fit and are sized. My waist is about 33 and I have big-ish thighs. I like a 33 inseam. Usually with Japan brands I have to go to a 34. I prefer a straight fit with medium rise.

 

Pirates has a size chart for washed and unwashed S5000VX 25oz and the 34 would be perfect. If the unwashed chart for the S510XX 25oz is correct the 34 would be too small after they shrink.

 

My most worn jeans are IH 634s 21oz in 34 from Vari and SG2105 in 34 from SE. The 634s fit me better in the thighs. The SG2105 are a little snug in the thighs, but the waist has stretched a bit and is loose. I wouldn’t want to size down on the SG. I also have IH 634s-IHXSE13 23oz in 33 but they are too tight in the waist and thighs and I hardly ever wear them (LOVE that denim tho).

 

Also, if I go with a Japan vendor, what’s the best way to get them hemmed? Having the vendor do the hemming with a chain stitch seems like a good idea, but how much should I allow for shrinkage? Would it be easier to get them in unhemmed, soak/wash them myself, and send them out to a US shop to get them chain stitched?

 

Lots of noob questions, I know… thanks much. Cheers! mpp

Posted (edited)

Ok, you asked and wrote a lot, I hope I can help you just a bit. Others who own the 25 oz denim will let you know about the expected shrinkage and how the sizes run, so I'll skip that.

The 510 has a higher rise than the 5000 and if you want a medium rise, that is your cut. The thighs on the 5000 should however be a tad smaller. I assume your IH 634S have stretched to more than 34...I have a 634SB in 33 and wear Samurai in 34. I think you could go with a 35 to be safe.

 

Regarding the hemming: I prefer to do it locally, as you can see how much they shrink first and make sure, that the tailor does it exactly how you want it. Japanese communication can be tricky. But on the other hand, if you tell them exactly what you want, you should be safe. And you safe money. In general, Samurais don't shrink a crazy amount, I never had more than 2" shrinkage.

Edited by Max Power
Posted

mpukas - i have every pair of jeans you mentioned, along with the large thighs.  

 

my waist is 32, and here's what works for me:

634s W32 (I have enough room in the thighs)

5000 W33 (or 634s + 1" is my recommendation) these fit me pretty good.  not constricting anywhere

2105 W33 (634s + 1")  like you said above, i get the tight thighs and loose waist.

510 W33 (I had the legs tapered to match my 634s, and I love this jeans. I shoulda gone TTS or maybe sized down one).  

 

If you go with the 5000, 34W is my recommendation to accommodate your thighs.

If you go with the 510's, I'd size by the waist, not the thigh. Just keep in mind these don't fit like the 5000's.  They aren't low rise and you'll have a lot of room below the knee.  

 

It sounds like you want the heavier samurai's, but i'm gonna also recommend SDA 103 W35.  Similar to the 5000 but no hip flare.  

 

Also, check our BF's fit guide. 

Posted (edited)

Would the 710 in W35 be equivalent to 0500 in W34 ? Thanks.

Edited by Chubacca
Posted

Thanks Max and EF for the replies. Very helpful. 

 

Yeah, Max, my 634s have stretched out a bit in the waist too. I maybe could have gone with a 33 in that pair, but I'm done with jeans so tight in the legs that I can't lift my leg high enough to step into my car LOL. I like the way they fit - but both the 634s and the SG2105 are due for a warm wash to tighten the waist up a bit. Tho I'm concerned the 2105 thighs are gonna get a little tight... 

 

I've looked at BF's fit guide quite a bit, and I see that the 510's have a higher rise and looser leg than the 5000. When I first saw the 5000 I thought that was it for me, now I'm leaning towards the 510 just for the comfort factor,  but I suspect the 5000 would look better on me. 

 

EF - what are SDA 103? Not familiar with them... Thanks! mpp

Posted

Studio D'Artisan 103 are a 66-kinda cut, medium rise and straight-slimmish leg, beautiful 15oz denim. If you are aiming for comfort, I think the 510 or 5000 would be the better choice, though. But keep in mind, that especially the 510 can look really wide from the knee down. My 500XX has similar measurements to a 510 and is by far my most comfy pair, however not the most flattering silhuette.

Posted

^^ If you have larger thighs and are considering Studio D'artisan, then SDA 101 would be the cut for you rather than 103.

Posted

i know this has probably been talked into the ground, but how many inches do the 710 model shrink in the waist & how many in the inseam?  i plan on hot washing in the machine and hang drying them.

Posted

i know this has probably been talked into the ground, but how many inches do the 710 model shrink in the waist & how many in the inseam?  i plan on hot washing in the machine and hang drying them.

I got 1" in the waist and 2" in the length on mine with a couple of hot washes. The waist stretched back to the raw measurement pretty easily

Posted

Here are a few fit pictures, the shirt  is actually a bit tight on me so let me know what you think. I have ordered another shirt in the next size up for lounging around in but I like the fitted look of this one.

 

IMG_20140101_164044_zpsmvzk3r2u.jpg

 

IMG_20140101_164102_zpsurighy9g.jpg

 

IMG_20140101_164108_zpsv4wjixhu.jpg

 

...and here in different lighting,

 

IMG_20140101_074709_zpstrzm0qhn.jpg

Posted (edited)

HC-SF-109 

Samurai JIN 170z

 

 

 

 

1st wash_  a fresh start for the new year

 

jin_1wsh.jpg

 

jin_1whiskr.jpg

 

jin_1crotch.jpg

 

LUV the atari developing along the edge of the back pocket half-lining

jin_1BP.jpg

Edited by BrownMetallic
Posted

Type: S710BKH

Worn for: Since October 2013, probably 1 week of effective wear so far

Washes: 1 hot soak and 1 wash to get rid of the shrinkage

 

I had been looking for grey fading jeans for a long time with a narrow cut. These are 17oz Zero denim: a good mix of comfortable and thick enough for the cold months ahead.

 

The pair, brand new:

11655562443_8c289e4432_z.jpg

 

A few pics after a week of wear

11717160875_7c5f4f2450_n.jpg11717288415_1273d4bdb4.jpg

 

And fit (without Tigers for once):

11717161665_c9a7e02615.jpg11717525314_925a930f3a.jpg

 

Happy new year btw!

 

 

 

Posted

I am still bent that I haven't bought a pair of Black selvedge with black or white weft....

Posted

Ah, so they have the Arcs but not the tab.

 

Right, no red tab. But I find it quite consistent with the 'all black' and 'clean' look of the jeans: grey threads, black buttons and rivets. Even the pockets are black. A black tab would have been ok though. Probably for legal concerns.

Posted

Right, no red tab. But I find it quite consistent with the 'all black' and 'clean' look of the jeans: grey threads, black buttons and rivets. Even the pockets are black. A black tab would have been ok though. Probably for legal concerns.

 

A black tab would have been fucking perfect and cool, with either white or silver text, why didn't they think of that??? Also, a black tab wouldn't have had the legal issues, I'm pretty sure it wouldn't anyway, it's only a red tab that sets off the alarms.

Posted (edited)

Why doesn't Samurai make the 710xx in 25 oz? 

 

Edit: maybe a better way of asking this - are there any plans to make the 710 in 25 oz?

Edited by sta991
Posted

Sorry about another sizing post but after reading over 300 pages I still have a question and with ordering internationally I'd really like to try and get this right, so I apologize in advance.

 

I have a 33" waist and I'm looking to get a S5000VX from Yuichi, but his washed measurement charts compared to the unwashed ones BiG's site are confusing me. 

 

I have a pair of Uniqlo Regular fit Made in Japan (I think the last run before they discontinued) in a size 32 that fit me well. After a year of wear and couple of washes the waist on those are 34" (using BiG's method) and are a low rise which fits snug on my hips. 

 

I've seen people mention sizing for thighs and not waist, which seems like the washed S5000VX measurements on Yuichi's site for the size 32 would be about the same as my Uniqlo's are in the thighs now, except that the waist is supposedly ~31.5" which seems crazy. I've also seen it mentioned a few times that the waist shrinks to the tag size and can stretch back out to pre-washed size, which might mean that 32 would possibly be the right size to go with?

 

Sorry for the rambling, just trying to get out my though process. Thanks for the help.

Posted

^ impressive, b_F 

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