Full Count Denim Thread

[Geeman]

I wonder how much the new cuts are going to vary from the original line up? Is it not just the tags, arcs and model number that's changing? 

Anyone seen any details or charts for the new cuts?

[Dry]

12 hours ago, Dry said:

Here are some 1101XX EX 25th anniversary revival jeans alongside my 1108XXs which I have been wearing evenings and weekends for 27 months.

This is what Fullcount Denim blog said about the 1101XX EXs in October 2017. I'm not sure what zara is but assume Serubitchi means selvedge.

Anniversary.

October 5, 2017

The Tokyo store where the arrival is continued. 
We introduced 25th anniversary items as well. 1101XXEX 1101XX_25TH_REVIVAL ¥ 26,784 This is the first full denim original reprint of 1101XX. As it is the design, it is an anniversary item which adopted technology which could not be done at that time, such as strengthening the feeling of zara from the time at the fabric . The patch used Deer Skin which reprinted the design at the time. Pleasurable needle stick buckle on buckle back. The hip pocket design also reproduces the stitch of the time. Bare rivets are also good feeling. The color of Serubitchi is red, you can see the strength of the zara feeling when you up the fabric. 

Edited November 24, 2018 by Dry
Reordered text

[Dry]

Son of a Stag says:   

FULL COUNT

FULL COUNT 1101XXEXW 15.5OZ JEAN

£349
 

• Made to Celebrate Full Count's 25th Anniversary.
• Every 6th yarn is uneaven, giving the jeans an unusually slubby feel for Full Count.
• Red Selvage instead of the usual Pink.
• Made to replicate their jeans prior to the adoption of Zimbabwean Cotton in 1994.
• Deerskin Leather patch with with different illustration.
• Cinch back.
• Full Count's classic 1101 fit.
• 15.5oz Japanese Denim
• Exposed rivets on the back pocket.
• Period accurate arcuate.
• Raw. We suggest dropping down a size from your usual.

 https://www.sonofastag.com/collections/full-count/products/full-count-1101xxexw-15-5oz-jean

But they are wrong about saying the denim is 15.5 oz as it is 15 oz.

[Maynard Friedman]

On 11/01/2017 at 11:35 AM, Maynard Friedman said:

0105SFS - I removed the cinch and scraped the kanji off the front, some outline marks are still visible. 

@Dry those new arcs are the same as these post lawsuit arcs they used on a few export models  for the U.K. about 15 or so years ago. Mind have totally worn away now.

[beautiful_FrEaK]

2 hours ago, Maynard Friedman said:

Mind have totally worn away now.

Yeah, that's obvious Mayno

[Broark]

So these are the first side by side photos of the new model vs. old model.
Not much information, just no arcs and tabs and the stitch color looks a little different along with narrower back pocket stitching.




Pulled from here, there are a few more photos there as well: http://let-it-be-clothing.blogspot.com/2018/11/blog-post_23.html 

[beautiful_FrEaK]

So more colour variation of the threads on the old models. 

[Broark]

Looks like it, which is a shame because I liked all the color variation on the old models.
Good thing I've got two pairs!

[Dry]

15 hours ago, Broark said:

Looks like it, which is a shame because I liked all the color variation on the old models.
Good thing I've got two pairs!

A great shame indeed. I have never bought any jeans which don't have arcs and am unlikely to buy any of the new models. Luckily a couple of pairs of Black Friday 1101XXs are currently on the way from Merv so I will have 4 BNWT pairs of 1101XXs in stock and 1 pair of 1108XXs. I also have 2 pairs of 1101XXs which remain unwashed and which I wear from time to time. Also I have 2 new pairs of the 1101XX EZs. My stocks should last me for a good while.

[jsky808080]

got a pair of 1108's in one wash. sized down one (very tight buttoning up)

 

[beautiful_FrEaK]

On 24.11.2018 at 5:13 PM, Broark said:

Looks like it, which is a shame because I liked all the color variation on the old models.
Good thing I've got two pairs!

I'm still on the fence whether to buy a back-up pair or not. Currently own only one pair of 1108 which is basically brand new (sold all the other ones because they were sized wrong)

[kss447]

I have a pair of 1101 in sz 31 that fit okay just out of the wash but quickly stretch out way too large (enough so that I gave them to my brother). I wanted to pick up a pair of 1108s with arcs while I can, thinking a size 30 would be a good bet. What do you guys think?

[MasonAlexander]

20% off on Okayama Denim right now for Cyber Monday if anybody is on the fence about getting a new pair of FullCount. I am going to dive in on my first pair

[beautiful_FrEaK]

24 minutes ago, kss447 said:

I have a pair of 1101 in sz 31 that fit okay just out of the wash but quickly stretch out way too large (enough so that I gave them to my brother). I wanted to pick up a pair of 1108s with arcs while I can, thinking a size 30 would be a good bet. What do you guys think?

If you can fit the slimmer hips and thighs that's the way to go. But if you are build a bit stronger in that region, sizing down on the 1108 can be tough . 

My 1101 were 33 but my 1108 is a 35

[BrownMetallic]

Good thing I got 1108-EX squirreled away for posterity ...Thanx @beautiful_FrEaK!!!

[FeloniousMonk]

Ugghhh... now you all are going to convince me that my emergency 1101XX purchase wasn’t sufficient, and I should have another backup pair or two... The jeans addiction has already gone too far, no matter how perfect the high rise, well-proportioned top block, and gentle taper of the 1101 fit may be!

That said, thanks for the heads up on the changing fits and design. I put the 1101XX away for a rainy day, but then caved and made them my new winter jeans. The stiffness and roughness of the freshly-soaked XX fabric is really surprising after the instant comfort of their 13.7 oz denim, but it’s fun to get a bit of a break-in period. The inky darkness of the new denim is also really nice - the warp almost looks black. Can’t wait to see how they age!

[Dry]

On 16/11/2018 at 10:36 AM, Dry said:

 

Has anybody got any sizing tips on the raw 1952 stretch model? I would like to get some before the arcs go but don't know whether you buy actual size thighs and a bigger waist or whether you can allow for the thigh stretching and if so, by how much?

[beautiful_FrEaK]

Are there any updated on the 1108R around? I don't think many guys from Sufu picked them up (besides @Foxy2 of course)?

[Foxy2]

there should be a pair in rotation over at DenimBro...

[TheIntelligentHoodwinker]

Wonder what the thinking is behind this. Reckon they're angling for a move to other countries? Have noticed collabs with UK brands like Garbstore and Paul Smith - maybe they want to become less niche? I could live without arcs and tabs if it meant better prices.

[Foxy2]

doubt that - there are only 3 ways to get cheaper: cut corners, cut profits or increase volumes...

[beautiful_FrEaK]

11 hours ago, TheIntelligentHoodwinker said:

Wonder what the thinking is behind this. Reckon they're angling for a move to other countries? Have noticed collabs with UK brands like Garbstore and Paul Smith - maybe they want to become less niche? I could live without arcs and tabs if it meant better prices.

The collabs with Paul Smith have been done for 2 years or so.

Aiming at the international market could be a reson behind this. The demand for repro brands is maybe diminishing and to make profit they have to broaden their market and go international and not only into small raw denim shops. And by doing this they obviously can't keep the arcs&tabs.
But becoming cheaper because they remove the arcs and tabs...I also highly doubt that.

Edited November 28, 2018 by beautiful_FrEaK

[tigerstrom]

I can live without the arcs but I hope they don't change the cuts too much. My 1101 is by far the best fitting jeans I've worn and the fabric is so nice. I asked someone on Instagram, I think it was the shop Bears and they said that the changes are really small but you will feel that is a new cut when you wear them. 

[EdwardBear]

On 11/27/2018 at 7:43 PM, TheIntelligentHoodwinker said:

Wonder what the thinking is behind this. Reckon they're angling for a move to other countries? Have noticed collabs with UK brands like Garbstore and Paul Smith - maybe they want to become less niche? I could live without arcs and tabs if it meant better prices.

I hear that Tsujita San wants to get back to a more vintage style cut, so a much higher rise with an extra button and wide leg (the 0106 cut is what 0105 will turn into apparently) and that many stores wouldn't carry the brand currently because of the arcs and tabs, as well as Levi's being on their case almost constantly. Tsujita San thinks that the brand has enough of an image and reputation that doesn't need the Levi's heritage tributes anymore. However the arcs got approved patent wise last year so there's always the option to bring it back if needs be. 

Interesting that Warehouse have recently upped their own hidden arcs and red tab on all their DD range, and the new 800XX now has a red tab. So where Fullcount are going less repro Levi's wise, Warehouse seem to be doing the opposite. 

[TheIntelligentHoodwinker]

On 11/28/2018 at 6:48 AM, beautiful_FrEaK said:

But becoming cheaper because they remove the arcs and tabs...I also highly doubt that.

Yeah, I didn't mean that alone would affect pricing. Just thought it might have been part of a wider strategy.

[VivaMarlon]

After just two days of solid wear, I can say that sizing down on the 1108 is highly recommended, they have stretched a lot.

[Cold Summer]

All the talk about stretching on the 1108 is interesting. My (one wash) ones don't feel like they've really stretched more than any other jeans I've worn - though the denim itself does feel somewhat stretchy.

[Cyruseg]

Just sharing my Fullcount Type 1 tight fit, this version is really tight that i need to pick one size up as my normal size (maybe two sizes up for some people). it looks very smart and easy carry than those vintage cut and details are remain the same as normal.

[Dry]

On 24/11/2018 at 10:30 AM, Maynard Friedman said:

@Dry those new arcs are the same as these post lawsuit arcs they used on a few export models  for the U.K. about 15 or so years ago. Mind have totally worn away now.

Mine don't have kanji on the front. FC online shop has now restocked raw 1101XX EXs . Mine are already showing some light blue after only a few days of wear.

[i_denim]

The Fullcount 1110 are a pair of jeans with high/mid rise? I looked at the measurements on Okayamadenim and like them. However, I did have poor luck picking up Warehouse 900 instead of 800 recently and struggle to keep all of me tucked into the jeans. Don't want another disaster so would be willing to look at another Fullcount cut if 1110 is low rise as well.