TCB

[bartlebyyphonics]

looks like the new 30s jacket and jeans are both up on their store-site now...

[not sure it is 'open' yet as it says 'sold-out' - presuming not actually taking orders as yet]

on a quick look through numbers;

looks like the jacket matches the jeans; giving them two new type ones; one boxier, but lighter denim [the 20s model discussed last page] and one heavier denim but longer body [with a body same-is length as their 40s & 50s]; which gives them four different type 1's in their roster: a 213, a 20s, a 30s, a 40s [a tip of the fedora to fête them for that feat...]

in terms of jeans; the numbers (which are always to be taken with a pinch of salt iirc) suggest mid-to large-ish rise (they say so explicitly in their description, numbers wise, a 33 front rise for the w.38 I always look at) but a full leg shape [a 38cm thigh is what they claim for that size] ... both the rise and thigh [thus fullness of leg] seems a smidge more generous than the 20s [but the rise not as huge as the s40s]

the fits they show both seem on the generous side [which I approve of] but sharing this one as I think it show the rise to thigh ratio that is going on...

[Mtvare]

The waists all seem to be an inch or more oversized, which - coupled with the high rise and the stretching tendencies of TCB denim - suggests sizing down a fair bit. I'd be keen on a pair of TCB looser than my 20s but not sure I'd get that if I had to size down to 31...

[NilsLW]

Whatever it is that TCB is doing they’re doing it right. The new 30’s jacket looks amazing.

[bartlebyyphonics]

8 hours ago, Mtvare said:

The waists all seem to be an inch or more oversized, which - coupled with the high rise and the stretching tendencies of TCB denim - suggests sizing down a fair bit. I'd be keen on a pair of TCB looser than my 20s but not sure I'd get that if I had to size down to 31...

iirc with the various comps. there has been a lot of blood, indigo, tears etc. shed over tcb sizing charts esp re; waist sizing...

... to which I repeat, the three pairs I have, after 18 months wear, washing, shrink, stretch, repeat; generally end up at their tag size; ie my pairs tagged at 38 waist end up 38" as are my w.36 which are now around 36" [maybe a little under] ...

imo sizing down generally ends in tears; going to size, esp. w. a cinch is generally happiness...

in more specific regards to yr comment; do compare their sizing charts; waist sizes run the same for 20s jeans and new 30s jeans...

20s jeans...

the new 37s... [waist is the mostly same [with a .5cm tolerance] but thigh and fr.rise bigger...]

 

4 hours ago, NilsLW said:

Whatever it is that TCB is doing they’re doing it right. The new 30’s jacket looks amazing.

for me: I am liking the big front jacket pocket of the 30s [and stitch overlap] very much; the dress length; less so; but it is giving us all options between around 62cm and 65cm between the 20s and 30s new models of jacket; I am very appreciative of this approach.

edit: the other thing I appreciate, whilst their jeans pricing are creeping into the same orbit as warehouse [though still not as much], their jacket prices generally remain the same price as their jeans rather than a good 11,000 yen more... nor sure how they manage that... 

Edited June 25, 2022 by bartlebyyphonics

[Mtvare]

Apart from the 40s debacle (where the initial measurements given were definitely wrong) I've never had a pair from any brand that didn't stretch beyond what I needed so I don't worry too much about sizing down. (Which phrase means different things to different people - and in different contexts - anyway. Some people mean taking a different size than is intended for the cut on your frame, e.g. to make a '55 cut into slim jeans. I just mean taking a different size from other pairs by the same manufacturer in order to get the waist right.)

Thanks for the size chart comparison - I guess the 20s waist measurements are laid flat, and that's what accounts for the extra inch. The rise makes a big difference for me. I need around 1.5" more for a pair that sits on the hips like the 20s than one that sits at the true waist like the 37s.

[Hopethisoneisnttaken]

In every new release that happened since the 40s competition Ryo emphasizes in the size area that the measurements were taken with the actual samples in hand, for each size (which wasn’t the case with the 40s). So in this case I’d trust the chart. It was also spot on for me with the working cat jeans (and 20s and 60s, but these are older of course) 

[MJF9]

30s jeans look promising, thigh and FR looking good, price looks good value for money.  I've mailed Ryo to see what the BR is - a nice front rise also needs the same out back for me.  I do struggle with the jacket's relative measurements tho - will be good to actually see one on Sufu to see how they hang 

Did the 20s sizings change?  For a size 34, my FR* is 30.5/31 i.e. 2/2.5cm more ... albeit out the first batch of 20s and with some wash n wear

(* seam ripped, needing repair hence the range)

[MJF9]

20s, 30s and 40s line up from IG

(Looks like these links don't embed like they used to https://www.instagram.com/p/CfRW439Laba/?igshid=YmMyMTA2M2Y=)

[efujobu1]

On 6/25/2022 at 3:35 AM, bartlebyyphonics said:

looks like the new 30s jacket and jeans are both up on their store-site now...

[not sure it is 'open' yet as it says 'sold-out' - presuming not actually taking orders as yet]

on a quick look through numbers;

looks like the jacket matches the jeans; giving them two new type ones; one boxier, but lighter denim [the 20s model discussed last page] and one heavier denim but longer body [with a body same-is length as their 40s & 50s]; which gives them four different type 1's in their roster: a 213, a 20s, a 30s, a 40s [a tip of the fedora to fête them for that feat...]

in terms of jeans; the numbers (which are always to be taken with a pinch of salt iirc) suggest mid-to large-ish rise (they say so explicitly in their description, numbers wise, a 33 front rise for the w.38 I always look at) but a full leg shape [a 38cm thigh is what they claim for that size] ... both the rise and thigh [thus fullness of leg] seems a smidge more generous than the 20s [but the rise not as huge as the s40s]

the fits they show both seem on the generous side [which I approve of] but sharing this one as I think it show the rise to thigh ratio that is going on...

Totally digging the way this fits.

[sven]

Think I’m gonna pull the trigger on W50.

[bartlebyyphonics]

2 hours ago, MJF9 said:

20s, 30s and 40s line up from IG

(Looks like these links don't embed like they used to https://www.instagram.com/p/CfRW439Laba/?igshid=YmMyMTA2M2Y=)

very nice; was mentally dismissing the 30s jacket due to length, but seen here in comparison the monster front pocket gives a lot of character... 

[Mtvare]

Some recent shots after washing.

The 50s are the oldest, but the 40s (newest) have had most wear, since I wore them most of the time during the contest.

20s, 40s, 50s:

[Mtvare]

I was too lazy to engage properly with the posting aspect of the 40s contest, but I did quite well with the wearing aspect. 40s tux from a few months ago:

 

[MJF9]

On 6/26/2022 at 3:11 PM, MJF9 said:

I've mailed Ryo to see what the BR is

On the OW.. 34 is 40cm; 36 is 42cm

From Hinoya, the SC 37s come in at 40cm and 41cm; LVC 37s at 41 and 42

So all 37s in similar ball park, at lower end of BR range comparatively

Edited June 27, 2022 by MJF9

[Maynard Friedman]

For a comparison of sorts, I’ve just measured my (still raw) Warehouse 415s in size 32, they’re a 37 model, effectively a rebadged 700. 40cm back rise.

[Graytrain]

Life was more than a little crazy during the contest so this is my first post of the jean evo. 

Really lovely vintage-y grainy fade on them. When I get the patience to repair the crotch and chuck a new pocket bag in ( chambray didn't last long), they'll go back into rotation. 

 

[el padre]

50s, about 9 months, loads of washes

[FurnitureMaker]

Cotton linen shorts. 

[Uncle Karl]

I haven't washed it for 1 year and 8 months since I wore it.

[srudy]

On 7/20/2022 at 1:30 PM, Uncle Karl said:

I haven't washed it for 1 year and 8 months since I wore it.

Wow! As usual!

[istewi]

My 40s are getting some decent wear... long after the contest is over. 

 

Edited July 30, 2022 by istewi

[claes]

^same!

 

[istewi]

My 20s jacket showed up a couple days ago. My worry was that sizing up to 46 from my usual 40 was going to be a mistake. Turns out that it fits pretty much how I wanted! A little bit loose and very comfortable. 

I gave it a hot wash and a few minutes in the tumble dryer and then air dried it. The length shortened just a tad and everything else stayed pretty much the same. 

[istewi]

Before and after measurements compared to TCB. 

[Graytrain]

FINALLY got around to repairing the crotch on my contest 40s so I threw them on. I just love this fit and denim. Such an awesome gray cast to it. 

[Graytrain]

And also my favorite pocket shapes of all time. Best character with wonky stitching and fading threads. 

[Hendsch]

Been a long while since I posted, but thought I'd do a bit of a TCB dump. All have been washed and dried heavily, and all are still being worn!

Going in order of purchase:

• 50's jacket, 7 years (still going strong from seasonal usage):

• 60's 6 years

• 50's 6 years

• 50's black 2.5 years (Pandemic jeans)

 

 

 

Edited September 22, 2022 by Hendsch

[chicote]

Those look so good Blake, it’s good to see you back for a min also!

[Hopethisoneisnttaken]

Wow! The black jeans look incredible! 

[Hendsch]

2 hours ago, chicote said:

Those look so good Blake, it’s good to see you back for a min also!

Thanks Ian! Good to be back, even if just for a min. Are you still in ABQ? I’m up in Santa Fe now. 

47 minutes ago, Hopethisoneisnttaken said:

Wow! The black jeans look incredible! 

Thanks @Hopethisoneisnttaken! The black 50’s are probably my favorite out of the lot, they have been a nice departure from all of the indigo jeans I’ve worn over the years.