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as somebody who has spend the last 30 years in the industry (working for brands and factories) as sewing room/cutting room operator, as pattern maker, as garment engineer and as a costing manager I can only point out that there is a big difference between a regular brand and a small operation like TCB:

Big brands make countless samples and pre-prodction runs that get constantly checked and tested - they put considerable resources (own or otherwise) behind each task to get the product right and the consumer only gets to see the final product, (yet, they still fuck up occaisonally.)

With TCB we are part of the sampling process - like it or not. they often copy vintage/original cuts working out the grading and fabric shrinkage by themselves.

Based on my own experience, Inoue has always been willing to fix mistakes/misunderstandings and to improve the product!

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^ words of wisdom.
I'm always sorry to hear if someone had not good experiences re sizing with TCB products. The more I see the more I think I've been always quite lucky. I have 10 different pieces by TCB and have mis-sized only once. Inoue is always open to constructive criticism and feedback from customers. Once I have the post shrink measures of the jacket I'll certainly let him know about it, hopefully he'll be able to straighten out things on the go. With the duck cloth 50's jacket he had the same problem, the jacket ended to have different figures than expected, in that case I bought through a third party shop in Taiwan, and as they received the stock before shipping they double checked with me the measurements. I'll keep buying directly from the factory as I enjoy to deal directly with the man himself, but the more I see the better it seems for the average customer to rely on a third party that can give first hand measurements, good communication in English and a good return policy.

Anyhoo you all know I am biased as one of the world leading TCB fanboys!

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Just got my 50s ow jacket from Denimio (exchanged 40 for 42)

better fit than the 40 size and very happy with the TCB quality. Slightly tight (close to just right) on the arms & shoulders. And I'm sure this jacket will loosen up after a few wears! For me, buying this jacket through Denimio was an enjoyable shopping experience. They helped me with the return shipping label and responded promptly to my questions :)

IMG_9512.JPG

Edited by Mr.Su

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First bath for the baby! Hottest water from the tap, I'll give it a 30 degrees spin right after it...

 

tmp_22269-P_20170420_192453_vHDR_Auto-011444658782.jpeg

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2 hours ago, Mr.Su said:

Just got my 50s ow jacket from Denimio (exchanged 40 for 42)

better fit than the 40 size and very happy with the TCB quality. Slightly tight (close to just right) on the arms & shoulders. And I'm sure this jacket will loosen up after a few wears! For me, buying this jacket through Denimio was an enjoyable shopping experience. They helped me with the return shipping label and responded promptly to my questions :)

IMG_9512.JPG

Be on the lookout for TCB coupons from Denimio like last year. Denimio likes looking out for their customers if you're on their email list.  I'm still kicking myself for not taking advantage of the coupon for TCB (I bought some Denime long sleeve shirts instead with the coupon).

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It's a bit too early to say it aloud but I think the soak went really well. the overall length while damp was 64 cm, while there seems to be little to none shrinking in the chest.

I think I'll celebrate what seems to be a TCB jacket sizing triumph by opening this amazing bottle of gin from the Isle of Harris I've just received by a tremendously generous friend and benefactor from Germany, who over the last few years has proven to be quite sympathetic to the cause of my alcoholic education...

8dlM1AK.jpg

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Hopefully I didn't come across as a hater. I actually have the brown duck Foremen Vest that I thoroughly enjoy wearing (the reason why I want to try more of TCB's garment offerings). I don't have much of an established relationship with Inoue-san, but it would be nice if someone was able to pass on the info about the '30s Jacket to him. 

Just based on a review on TCB's website, it seems that another person has had a similar experience with the chest measurement - that it comes out a lot smaller than displayed in the size chart. A suggestion I would make for now would be for people to enquire about the specific measurements of the size they're looking for (not go off the sizing chart alone) and potentially go for the one-wash version if they're unfamiliar with this fabric's shrinkage.

I would love to see more of the jackets on here, so if you can figure out your size then go for it! 

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15 hours ago, propellerbeanie said:

I just reread what I wrote and it does seem unclear as to how it fits. A few hours have passed and I've come to the decision that I can't make it work because it's too tight around my armpits, so I'll be returning it. The combination of the chest width and armhole makes the jacket a bit too uncomfortable for me to wear in the long run. A real shame because the measurements on TCB's website looked so promising! 

I guess this works as a good warning for those wanting to purchase the jacket. If possible, don't go off the measurements on the TCB site, but rather contact Denimio's support and ask for them to measure the jacket for you. It's more than likely that the chest will be quite a bit smaller than what you'd expect (although this is only from two peoples' accounts).

Hopefully I'm not turning people off from buying this jacket because the fabric is really rather beautiful! It's dark, and the hairiness and slub is subtle and not overly pronounced. Just double check yo' size if you can't try before you buy! =)

how tall are you etc......?  thanks.  are you a lean guy?  a stockish type of dude?  thanks.

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Indeed the TCB30's shrank to perfection

pit to pit 53,5 x2 107 cm, the pit to pit measured from inside (360°) it's exactly 118 cm as on the tcb chart.

overall length 64 cm, it'll probably shrink more with a hotter wash, but I wanted to play safe...

shoulder to cuff 64 cm, won't need to cuff sleeves

shoulder seam to seam 49 cm

this fits me perfect, much better than the 50's jacket. length and sleeves are spot on.

I am really surprised how much the denim shrank length wise and how little it did widthwise.

The 20's/30's feels great after wash, it's super soft, little to none crunchiness. It feels like the denim will stretch quite a bit.

I'm going to wear it today, I'll try and snag a fit pic later on.

 

 

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7 hours ago, heavydoom said:

how tall are you etc......?  thanks.  are you a lean guy?  a stockish type of dude?  thanks.

G'day mate, I haven't taken any photos of myself with the jacket on, but to get an idea of my build, click here. I'm about 170cm/70kg. I used to gym quite a bit, but now I'm living the lazy life although my chest/back is still a bit on the larger side for someone my height.

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Great news, volvo! Bit confusing that from the outside the chest measurements is 107cm laid flat and from the inside (shouldn't be much bigger as measured from inside) it's 118cm, even though measured with 360 method. If that is how these are sized, have to look elsewhere as I'd need p2p 59cmx2=118cm and with 360 method something like 128-130. Biggest size is 124cm, damn.

Edited by mrman

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3 minutes ago, mrman said:

Great news, volvo! Bit confusing that from the outside the chest measurements is 107cm laid flat and from the inside (should be smaller) it's 118cm, even though measured with 360 method. If that is how these are sized, have to look elsewhere as I'd need p2p 59cmx2=118cm and with 360 method something like 128-130. Biggest size is 124cm, damn.

You'll find that jeans measured 360° style also give a larger measurement than the flat method. I didn't even think about measuring the jacket using the 360° method - thanks @volvo240thebest for the clarification!

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Ill take a few pics of how I measured. I am going to ask Inoue to set up a 'how we measure' page in his online shop page. Hopefully it'll help to clarify and reduce the sizing mortality ;)

The front and back panel don't coincide, ie the back panel is wider so so when the jacket is laid flat is not easy to to measure properly. The 50's jacket is built differently.

The buttons are made of iron! They already started to rust a bit after the first wash. Inoue already told me but I've understood that only the suspenders buttons in the 20s were iron, I was wrong!

 

Edited by volvo240thebest

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Perfect fit, Volvo. Your type II was a little too long although you wore/faded it well.

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Well done Volvo fit looks perfect! Do you find the arm opening to be bigger than the 50s?

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a tiny bit bigger yes, but I wouldn't say it's considerably bigger in the sleeves. as you can see it is shorter than the 50's both overall length and sleeves. other than that it fits pretty similar to the 50's jacket. I like it more than the 50's jacket. The denim feels amazing. I am quite excited to embark on a 18 months fade mission with this denim for the 20's contest...

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2 hours ago, volvo240thebest said:

a tiny bit bigger yes, but I wouldn't say it's considerably bigger in the sleeves. as you can see it is shorter than the 50's both overall length and sleeves. other than that it fits pretty similar to the 50's jacket. I like it more than the 50's jacket. The denim feels amazing. I am quite excited to embark on a 18 months fade mission with this denim for the 20's contest...

mr. haddock.  you bought the 42 raw right? 

is the sizing of your raw post wash the same as the one wash version of this jacket?  i mean really you basically one washed the jacket yourself.  

i am deciding whether to get the raw or the one wash version.....i am inclined to get the one wash. 

 

thanks.

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14 hours ago, propellerbeanie said:

G'day mate, I haven't taken any photos of myself with the jacket on, but to get an idea of my build, click here. I'm about 170cm/70kg. I used to gym quite a bit, but now I'm living the lazy life although my chest/back is still a bit on the larger side for someone my height.

thanks for this.  

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i'm gonna regret asking this, but what is the nearest equivalent of a slim tapered fit in tcb jeans?

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I love this thread, it really is the saviour of Sufu :rolleyes:

I own 2 TCB garments and have worn neither- my 50s jeans are just waiting in a long queue and my Seamens jacket (that I've had for about 3 years) is, unfortunately 2nd choice to an LVC shawl collared blue twill jacket (with anchor buttons) that I've been wearing since late 2010 and refuses to wear out!

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Volvo, I don't mean to go off topic but are your Nomads a single sole or double sole?

Edited by mlwdp

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43 minutes ago, Niro said:

i'm gonna regret asking this, but what is the nearest equivalent of a slim tapered fit in tcb jeans?

Probably the slim 50's! 

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7 hours ago, heavydoom said:

mr. haddock.  you bought the 42 raw right? 

is the sizing of your raw post wash the same as the one wash version of this jacket?  i mean really you basically one washed the jacket yourself.  

i am deciding whether to get the raw or the one wash version.....i am inclined to get the one wash. 

 

thanks.

Hey HD, if you scroll back this thread you can find both pre soak and post soak numbers, it's pretty close if you consider the chest measurements done 360 degrees style. Iirc the ow it's shorter. I gave it a hot soak with no agitation and a 30 degrees spin in the washing machine. I could shrink it more if needed.

Edited by volvo240thebest

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5 hours ago, Niro said:

i'm gonna regret asking this, but what is the nearest equivalent of a slim tapered fit in tcb jeans?

From looser to tighter fit:

TCB preshrunk 505 (repro of late 60's 505), high rise, tapered.

TCB Slim original 50's. This would be the best option if you can cope with the low rise. Same fabric as the 50's jeans and jacket, check the contest thread to see the potential...

TCB ultra slim (repro of 606), no selvedge model, skinny...

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5 hours ago, mlwdp said:

Volvo, I don't mean to go off topic but are your Nomads a single sole or double sole?

Welt sole plus midsole plus Dr sole Composite full outsole :)

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Couple pics of the 30s jacket. The iron rusting buttons are crazy, wonder how they'll end to be in a few years...

The macro texture pic is quite true to color irl.

tmp_29510-_DSC2072-01368208499.jpeg

tmp_29510-_DSC2059-011509197246.jpeg

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Oh man, I will definitely get myself a TCB type 1 too. 

Now to sort out funds to pick up a 20's denim tux from the factory.

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10 hours ago, longshanks said:

Probably the slim 50's! 

 

4 hours ago, volvo240thebest said:

From looser to tighter fit:

TCB preshrunk 505 (repro of late 60's 505), high rise, tapered.

TCB Slim original 50's. This would be the best option if you can cope with the low rise. Same fabric as the 50's jeans and jacket, check the contest thread to see the potential...

TCB ultra slim (repro of 606), no selvedge model, skinny...

Thanks guys.

Looking at measurements, the slim 50s prob is best option but that rise of under 10 inches is a no go for me

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this is my second pair of 60's, which I've started to wear in june last year. They don't have more than 6 months of actual wear. Washed 12/15 times I think. At this stage they start to look real nice and get that ocean blue typical of "nach 1960's Levi's 501" repros, which I really love. Another three months of real wear and I'll keep them for special occasions, don't want to destroy them the way I did with the first pair, and I have a third pair ready to be worn in!

 

 

20170424_tcb60.jpg

Edited by volvo240thebest

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