What about Jeans Jackets ....

[Toegun]

@dada mafiosi I have a couple of their jackets. They’re great and quite fast faders. Is that one wash? Looks like you could put it through a hot wash to get it to tighten up a bit. 

[MJF9]

@dada mafiosi nice jacket... is it the 21oz? I have to cuff the sleeves on my Samurai as they're too long but actually quite like it for a change. If you put it through the wash as @Toegun says you might not need cuffs.

Edited October 14, 2020 by MJF9

[dada mafiosi]

7 hours ago, Toegun said:

@dada mafiosi I have a couple of their jackets. They’re great and quite fast faders. Is that one wash? Looks like you could put it through a hot wash to get it to tighten up a bit. 

@Toegon, yes, this is one wash. If you notice front side pic the size is just right as I wear 55cm shirt pit to pit and the jacket is 55.5 cm. 

But as back side has small pleats, it looks loose 

[dada mafiosi]

On 10/15/2020 at 12:50 AM, MJF9 said:

@dada mafiosi nice jacket... is it the 21oz? I have to cuff the sleeves on my Samurai as they're too long but actually quite like it for a change. If you put it through the wash as @Toegun says you might not need cuffs.

@MJF9 Thanks, it is 15oz. Sleeves are 63cm while in the same chest width TCH had 67cm. 

Samurai jacket has additional 2 to 3 cm in sleeves for me, I think they keep it deliberately so people with longer arms can wear, also gives opportunity for honeycombs. 

This is one-wash , I don't think even hot wash will work to shrink further

Edited October 16, 2020 by dada mafiosi

[dada mafiosi]

The below evolution pictures I found on internet are of Samurai S0551XX Type I Jacket, inspired me and helped me decide which brand I should select for my next denim jacket. 

The denim used in both Samurai S0551XX and S0552XX is the same 15oz Texan cotton.  

In these pics you will notice one the the best evolution of denim jackets that is available on internet, nice fading is far better than other competitive high end brands. Rusted buttons are certainly one of the finest details that you reach during the journey of denim love. 

In my S0552XX jacket, I notice size of custom iron buttons are in great proportion (i.e. perfectly sized), looks great, feel rugged and soft. Yellow thread construction in most of the front parts, looks amazing, contrasts beautifully on indigo (you can say denim wearing gold ornaments). 

Samurai is Samurai of denim. 

Edited October 17, 2020 by dada mafiosi

[aho]

 

[breakingfad]

Eternal 886. Have had this forever. I think 4 or 5 years. Slow fader

[MJF9]

So a comparison of some features of my CSF 1946 first half V FW 1927

Photos from a few weeks back, taken indoors, in poor light

Fellas in the know please correct or add to this as you see fit

CSF is 1 year 9 months; FW new

CSF tag size 46; FW tag 44

CSF when new was reassuringly rigid; FW came one wash and is much softer

Even though the CSF is 21 months in, it’s still more rigid (pleasantly) in contrast to the softness of the FW

Denim feels similar weight

Collars – 1927 spread; 1946 pointy

Buttons – 1927 smaller, unbranded; 1946 bigger, branded

Pleat box stitching (is that even a term?) - 1927 thinner and shorter

Pocket – 1927 curved pocket flap; 1946 has red tab

Arm hole – 1927 about an inch bigger

Sleeve – 1927 about an inch wider

Sleeve – 1927 two seams; 1946 one seam

Back - CSF is a size 46 and has a T back; CSF has a lower yoke

Length – CSF about 1 cm shorter

Stitching – CSF wonkier stitching – done to death in more details before so enough said!

Edited February 13, 2021 by MJF9

[Duke Mantee]

Two different eras but a great comparison 

[shredwin_206]

I’ll take the 20s one off your hands  

great comparison. Both lovely in their own way! 

[Dr_Heech]

Agree with shredders @MJF9 both are titans in the type one repro world. Thanks for the effort to post all the photos.

[chambo2008]

My momotaro frost jacket.

[spitfiredealer]

Iron Heart 526L

 

 

 

[indigoeagle]

For the type 1 jacket there are different versions, 20s, 30s, 40s:

With red tab or without, pocket flaps or not, smaller/bigger collar.

 

Does anyone know the differences for the 507, type II?
In general it's stated, that it was first issued in 1953.
Freewheelers call theirs the 1951.

There are differences in pocket height placement. Generally the top corners are a bit above the pit and above the top pleat stitching.
With the FW 1951 they're on the same level as the pit stitiching.
And the FC one is quite a bit lower. 
Also RRL had a Cone denim one a few years ago with those sunk front pockets.

 

[Dr_Heech]

12 hours ago, indigoeagle said:

For the type 1 jacket there are different versions, 20s, 30s, 40s:

With red tab or without, pocket flaps or not, smaller/bigger collar.

 

Does anyone know the differences for the 507, type II?
In general it's stated, that it was first issued in 1953.
Freewheelers call theirs the 1951.

There are differences in pocket height placement. Generally the top corners are a bit above the pit and above the top pleat stitching.
With the FW 1951 they're on the same level as the pit stitiching.
And the FC one is quite a bit lower. 
Also RRL had a Cone denim one a few years ago with those sunk front pockets.

 

Do you have a copy of Denimseeker"s most excellent denim jacket ebook? Or a copy of the vintage Levis denim jackets book? If you have an email address l can try to send you the former (it's in a PDF format), It covers the various nuances and factory variations.

 

 

 

[indigoeagle]

9 hours ago, Dr_Heech said:

Do you have a copy of Denimseeker"s most excellent denim jacket ebook? Or a copy of the vintage Levis denim jackets book? If you have an email address l can try to send you the former (it's in a PDF format), It covers the various nuances and factory variations.

 

 

 

No.

I haven't. Thanks for the pointers. 
I've located denim seekers thread and will peruse it: 

 

Looks like there is nothing in the google drive anymore. I'll send you a message.

 

[conqueror]

i have a well-worn TCB type 2 (OG version/cut) that i love and still has a ton of life, but i've sadly put on weight and can't button it up at all anymore.

what would be a good type 2 replacement? orslow looks decent, although something a hair cheaper would be ideal...

i should also say i'm very fussy with sleeve length on denim jackets (prefer shorter if anything) and my TCB is perfect in that regard.

[Maynard Friedman]

Sugar Cane is always good value.

[indigoeagle]

44 minutes ago, conqueror said:

i have a well-worn TCB type 2 (OG version/cut) that i love and still has a ton of life, but i've sadly put on weight and can't button it up at all anymore.

what would be a good type 2 replacement? orslow looks decent, although something a hair cheaper would be ideal...

i should also say i'm very fussy with sleeve length on denim jackets (prefer shorter if anything) and my TCB is perfect in that regard.

I recently had a look at a different number of type 2 jackets.
Like with sweat shirts a main difference seems to be the vertical length.
Some for the size 42 have a length of around 60cm, and a number of others are around 65cm.

The ones around 60cm were FW, WH, LVC and RMC.
The Sugarcane one as well as Full Count, and I think The Flat Head, as well as a few others have a length around 65cm.

So you have to decide, what length style you're looking for.
I think, TCB tends to be longer, so you might want to look at the second group.

 

[indigoeagle]

For the vintage type 2 on the back/side the 42 and 44 had vertical cloth inlays under the pit.
For sizes 46 and above the back was constructed with three pieces of clothes in a T-pattern.
Apparently the T-pattern is very popular in Japan, so that a number of manufacturers also issued smaller sizes with it.

I found this video by Berberjin quite interesting.

 

 

[ColonelAngus]

Anyone have a tried and true method for stretching out a button hole without tearing it? I’ve got an IH 21oz type III that I hardly wear because I can’t get one of the buttons fastened 

[smoothsailor]

Or make the button smaller.

file/pliers

[Maynard Friedman]

Does anyone know why the Levi’s Type I & II jackets never had pocket arcs and external patches like the jeans?

[indigoeagle]

Jelado also has some nice denim jackets.

 

Here a 1.5 years worn one.

 

In this video he shows the aging differences

 

Here combination suggestions

 

 

Edited October 9, 2022 by indigoeagle

[dada mafiosi]

Anybody owns this Jacket "THE FLAT HEAD DENIM JACKET - 60S TYPE III", one wash

How is the experience? fit ?

whether shrunk with hot wash ?

or become slightly loose with wear?

[Vulcan]

1 hour ago, dada mafiosi said:

Anybody owns this Jacket "THE FLAT HEAD DENIM JACKET - 60S TYPE III", one wash

How is the experience? fit ?

whether shrunk with hot wash ?

or become slightly loose with wear?

I just got this jacket last week and haven't washed it yet so I can't say how it does with water or age quite yet. That being said, I have had TFH's type II jacket for 10 years which is made from the same Pioneer denim and it ages wonderfully. Loads of pics online if you want to see how this denim fades. Typically this will shrink a bit with a hot wash but then stretch back out to the original size in areas that get stretched - just like jeans. Washing will create some nice crinkles in the fabric on the collar and waistband which creates some really nice character.

I love the fit on these, it's a slim fitting type III that tapers from the shoulders to a pretty slim waist. The sleeves are also nice and slim which gives it a more modern feel. The body is a little bit longer than the Type II and hits just below the belt which makes it great to wear with an untucked shirt underneath. I wear these TTS - I'm 5'8", 155lbs and wear a sz 40.

 

Some sample pics of it fitting me. Forgive the wrinkled shirt, I untucked it for the photo...

 

 

 

[Vulcan]

For comparison, and since I haven't posted anything for a long time - here's my Flat Head 6002W. Owned for 9 years. This will give you and idea of how the denim can fade...

 

[dada mafiosi]

43 minutes ago, Vulcan said:

I just got this jacket last week and haven't washed it yet so I can't say how it does with water or age quite yet. That being said, I have had TFH's type II jacket for 10 years which is made from the same Pioneer denim and it ages wonderfully. Loads of pics online if you want to see how this denim fades. Typically this will shrink a bit with a hot wash but then stretch back out to the original size in areas that get stretched - just like jeans. Washing will create some nice crinkles in the fabric on the collar and waistband which creates some really nice character.

I love the fit on these, it's a slim fitting type III that tapers from the shoulders to a pretty slim waist. The sleeves are also nice and slim which gives it a more modern feel. The body is a little bit longer than the Type II and hits just below the belt which makes it great to wear with an untucked shirt underneath. I wear these TTS - I'm 5'8", 155lbs and wear a sz 40.

 

Some sample pics of it fitting me. Forgive the wrinkled shirt, I untucked it for the photo...

Nicely fit on your body

 

 

[Muck Dynasty]

On 11/12/2022 at 7:38 AM, dada mafiosi said:

Anybody owns this Jacket "THE FLAT HEAD DENIM JACKET - 60S TYPE III", one wash

How is the experience? fit ?

whether shrunk with hot wash ?

or become slightly loose with wear?

I just got this jacket a few weeks ago. I gave it a hot soak for about 45 minutes with frequent agitation, And a little  bit in the dryer when it was damp. I didn’t notice much shrinkage. Someone mentioned doing a hot wash and dry with the one-wash 3009, he said the shrinkage stretched back out quickly. I wouldn’t worry about it becoming unwearable or anything. Their washing should cover any sizing issues, and still stretch to accommodate your body type. 
 

The fit is broad in the shoulders like all Flat Head, but feels fairly generous everywhere else too though. I can layer under it, or wear it with a t shirt, it’s not so oversized it feels too big with a t shirt, but it is snug with a hoodie. I can button the bottom button if I pull it (t shirt only) over a belt and size 34 jeans. 
 

This is my first denim jacket since I was 12 or so lol, so I need some time to decide if it’s a good fit or not, but so far I like it. It doesn’t looks sloppy or oversized aside from the wide shoulders, and I get full range of movement. It feels like a win, time will tell if I change my mind. 

Edited November 13, 2022 by Muck Dynasty

[Babyson]

PBJ type 2. First purchased in 2014, 1 wash. I haven’t worn it a ton but it’s nice when I do. Considering getting another denim jacket, can’t layer a sweatshirt under this one because the arms are too tight. I have fairly broad shoulders and chest. Anyone know a jacket that fits similarly but has a little more room in the arms?