Shoes that look better with age...

[PeterParker]

Natural CXL. My hopes that the distressed leather could look as good as the CXL have not been fulfilled. Every time I see those boots I am remorseful about my decision...

[BrownMetallic]

Recently got my latest SDs from bakers.

Now, they are almost made according to spec.

Everything fine and dandy except for the mid sole. Its double instead of single.

What to do? I cant decide. Its not that I hate the looks of them. (and double is more expensive and will probably last longer)

Classic Dress Boot by White's - 2332-461

Hardware Antique Eyes & Hooks

Sole Commando Mini Lug Half Sole

Size - Length 9

Heel Lifts 1/4" Lower

Edge Brown

Upper (Shaft) Leather #8 Burgundy Chrome Excel by Horween

Midsole Single

Pull Loops No Thanks

Last Classic 461 Last

Sole Trim Close Trim

Toe Vamp Leather #8 Burgundy Chrome Excel by Horween

Size - Width D (medium)

Toe Cap Medallion Dress Toe Cap

Heel Base 90 Degree Blocked off Heel (Traveler)

.

'know it's none of my biz, but i just thought i'd share my insight regarding lethal combinations. some combo looks promising [on paper], but doesn't translate wellon the real. turned-up toes + half-soles + lowered+block heels = way too complicated.

taking all 4 options will drastically alter the aesthetic balance of the SD. the sloping 461 toes will be more pronounced due to the 1/4" lowering of the heels. it will look more like the full-sprung toes of WL "Hill Boots".

the heel butts would be sticking further out cuz of the blocked heels. the half-soles would make them look like they're even dragging too far back.

imo, half-soles look good only on double-leather w/ standard heels.

lowered + blocked heels combo look best on single leather soles.

but, looks decent, as well, on full unit composite soles ... even on a 461.

Edited January 18, 2013 by BrownMetallic

[Paul T]

Just thought I'd pop in to say how much I've enjoyed recent pages, including hoggreaser's excellent boots.

I haven't worn my Lennons in seven months, 'cos I've been wearing in my comparatively skinny Full Counts. But I'm looking forward to getting back to them.

Just as a reference, here are the reinforced and non-reinforced toes in the Ammo Boot last. There are more photos in the Lennon story on Loomstate. I'm sorry we wouldn't get the Lennon group buy together - they're lovely people at WL, but they take a lot of chasing!

No celastic:

Finally, for RIff and others. We finally got a hound. We chose a colourway in an English bridal tan. Goes very well with Tricker's Stowe, and the Sargen Applebys. Also enjoys chewing fine English footwear. My boots etc now spend a lot more time on shoe trees as I can never leave them downstairs overnight...

Edited January 18, 2013 by Paul T

[Megatron1505]

You could say that Paul's dog has good "taste" in boots.

[exaptavist]

.

Edited October 8, 2015 by hoggreaser

[Maynard Friedman]

Don't even get me started on what my mutt did to a pair of dogtooth trousers. Then there are my shoes he got hold of - a pair of Redwing Irish Setters no less - it's enough to set tongues wagging...

[CrashTestBrummie]

Welcome back, Paul, been a long time!

Don't even get me started on what my mutt did to a pair of dogtooth trousers. Then there are my shoes he got hold of - a pair of Redwing Irish Setters no less - it's enough to set tongues wagging...

There's a tortoise here who has a penchant for zug leather, seriously.

Talking of zug, it's a Lotus veldt boot day today, not that you can tell! Still waterproof...

[Paul T]

Hope your veldts have commando soles, ben? Mine have, v useful this lunchtime. Also the hound is not so keen on zug, and you can tuck the laces into the top.

[CrashTestBrummie]

Just the cover soles you see below, Paul. The original soles are still in tip-top condition.

They've just served me well on the three-mile, snow-laden walk home for work and don't 'hold' the snow as much as commando soles can at times.

[tod]

Recently got my latest SDs from bakers.

Now, they are almost made according to spec.

Everything fine and dandy except for the mid sole. Its double instead of single.

What to do? I cant decide. Its not that I hate the looks of them. (and double is more expensive and will probably last longer)

Classic Dress Boot by White's - 2332-461

Hardware Antique Eyes & Hooks

Sole Commando Mini Lug Half Sole

Size - Length 9

Heel Lifts 1/4" Lower

Edge Brown

Upper (Shaft) Leather #8 Burgundy Chrome Excel by Horween

Midsole Single

Pull Loops No Thanks

Last Classic 461 Last

Sole Trim Close Trim

Toe Vamp Leather #8 Burgundy Chrome Excel by Horween

Size - Width D (medium)

Toe Cap Medallion Dress Toe Cap

Heel Base 90 Degree Blocked off Heel (Traveler)

Would love to see more pics of these boots! Am trying to decide on 461 vs Semi-dress last for my upcoming order...

Thanks!

[patrick_b]

A few images to compare three well known boots.

Wolverine 1K Mile in brown CXL, sz 10.5D (2 yrs old)

Red Wing 9011 GT/Beckman in Black Cherry, sz 10.5D (6 months old)

Oak Street Trench Boot in Natural CXL, sz 11D (1 week old)

All have been treated with Obenauf HDLP. The trench boots have one light coat while the others have multiple coats.

Notes:

The 1K's are just not a good looking boot, no shape to speak of (to me, this became much more evident when you compare them to the other two). CXL was comfy out of the box and they are relatively light weight. Fit & finish was fine with mine but I've read about others produced more recently with a number of issues, ranging from minor/cosmetic all the way to structural. Again, mine were fine. Build quality, durability and materials have all been very good.

RW 9011 with the half lugged sole are more practical here in New England in the winter. They took a solid 10-12 hrs of light wear to break in. Once broken in, they are extremely comfortable and feel substantial on the foot (unlike the 1K's). I don't think I'd want a boot that is much heavier than these (even though I like the appearance of heavier boots, I'd likely wear them less). Quality and durability are all excellent.

Trench Boot took a bit of break in, just a couple of hrs and they became very comfortable. I much prefer the last of the Oak Street boot, both in terms of fit and aesthetics. The natural CXL is just plain gorgeous IMO and the perfect canvas to showcase patina. Fit and finish is a step up from the other two. They really got it right with the Trench Boot.They wear lighter than the RW but feel more substantial than the 1K. Goldilocks would refer to the Trench boot as "just right"...and I wouldn't disagree.

Edited January 18, 2013 by patrick_b

[fattybfat]

Pre-polish

Post-Polish

i used lexol cleaner and conditioner which darken the leather abit. Since the leather already so dried and scratched i really dont care. i think it looks pretty good after polished

[BrownMetallic]

Bingo!

very nice, hog!

the thin rubber on the soles were nailed or stitched on?

i'm 3 weeks in on my TOW build_ can't wait.

i stayed with the black waxed reversed kip, but opted on same semi-sprung last instead of the full-sprung. also, got the Dainites.

[Megatron1505]

Opinions please learned peers, I am not a particular fan of the Vibram sole, but general design and construction comments more than welcome.

[Megatron1505]

Info...

- Pull up tan leather

- Goat skin lined

- Bench made

- Vibram sole

- Hand brogue detail

[hollowsleather]

Hollows, what were those? BH w/o celastic in distressed?

BH, Natural Chromexcel, 1/4" lowered heel, 430 sole.

I'm really digging these and I'm tempted to get a pair of captoe SDs in Natural CXL to throw in the closet for the day this pair dies (decades from now).

[garden gnomes in space]

The trench boot looks so much better than the wolverine. I have said it before and will most likely be branded a hater at this point, but I cannot stomach the wolverine 1000 mile boot. Its awful shape, along with wolverine's shitty QC makes it something I want to just go away.

[denimjunky]

.

'know it's none of my biz, but i just thought i'd share my insight regarding lethal combinations. some combo looks promising [on paper], but doesn't translate wellon the real. turned-up toes + half-soles + lowered+block heels = way too complicated.

taking all 4 options will drastically alter the aesthetic balance of the SD. the sloping 461 toes will be more pronounced due to the 1/4" lowering of the heels. it will look more like the full-sprung toes of WL "Hill Boots".

the heel butts would be sticking further out cuz of the blocked heels. the half-soles would make them look like they're even dragging too far back.

imo, half-soles look good only on double-leather w/ standard heels.

lowered + blocked heels combo look best on single leather soles.

but, looks decent, as well, on full unit composite soles ... even on a 461.

Hey 3rd. Thanks for sharing your opinions.

I quite like them though and I cant agree with you. Have you ever seen this combo IRL?

They are not at all made with such a pronounced upturned toe as the hill boot. (I have both).

Would love to see more pics of these boots! Am trying to decide on 461 vs Semi-dress last for my upcoming order...

Thanks!

Will present more shots on occasion.

Edited January 18, 2013 by denimjunky

[exaptavist]

.

Edited October 8, 2015 by hoggreaser

[CrashTestBrummie]

⇧ Gav, I like alot. Comfy looking casual boot, the lower shaft height works in its favour too I think and the Vibram Christy sole ( or Cristy? Even Vibram spell it both ways on their site ..! ) suits it.

⇧⇧ BM, the rubber outsole piece on my WL is glued on - same as Ben's veldts, so it's a topy sole if you like. There's some divided opinion over this; there arguments that it will seal in moisture preventing the leather from breathing but I think they'll cope.

I've yet to see an English manufacturer who actually stitches through a rubber outsole in the manner that the US brands do for example White's.

I don't have an issue with it being stuck on, if it peels I'll seal it with a good leather cement - Master's All Purpose (can't get old Barge any more, too toxic!), McNetts or Renia - whatever is at hand. On the plus side, far simpler to replace by any half competent shoe repair outfit.

I am curious about how WL are going to fix the dainite - the leather sole boots are stitched outer and mid, and the whole lot screwed through. No reason I suppose (not that I know anything much) that a dainite full sole can't be treated in the same fashion after all it replaces the outer leather. The reverse kip is excellent.

Took the boots for their first outing to get booze just a bit ago (now there's a surprise), felt like a storm trooper.

Is this what you mean, mate?

[Crat]

or this?

[CrashTestBrummie]

^Northcotes?

[exaptavist]

.

Edited October 8, 2015 by hoggreaser

[exaptavist]

.

Edited October 8, 2015 by hoggreaser

[Crat]

Ah ok, HG.

Spot on, Brummie!

[CrashTestBrummie]

Shit on a stick. I've been called. I have never seen that CBT. That's extraordinary! A rubber half sole that not only resembles the studded Dainite, but Church branded, and to top it off - stitched through. Well yer never too old to learn. It is unusual tho' eh?

- Crat, not exactly, I'll 'borrow' the pic to show. Giz two tics

Not commonplace, you're right. Think I've seen it on a C&J model before, but might've been an older one. Definitely saw it on a couple of models at the Church's factory showroom when I went down to Northampton early last year.

Spot on, Brummie!

Been cleaning up a beautiful pair of old Edward Green derby brogues tonight, made for Poulsen Skone back in the day. Fantastic patina now they've been given some TLC, although sadly not my size. Will post pics over the weekend.

[exaptavist]

.

Edited October 8, 2015 by hoggreaser

[denimjunky]

New SDs with specs: 461 last, lowered heel, CXL #8, medallion cap etc etc.

For reference put beside my SDs, SD last, cuban heel, vibram halfsole. burgundy calf.

The single leather sole with vibram halfsole is as thick as double with mini commando.

The 461, mini commando with lowered heel setup doesnt make the shoe tilt back as much as I thought compared to the other more standard setup.

The cxl is so much richer in tone...

[BrownMetallic]

Hey 3rd. Thanks for sharing your opinions.

I quite like them though and I cant agree with you. Have you ever seen this combo IRL?

They are not at all made with such a pronounced upturned toe as the hill boot. (I have both).

[sorry] yes, it was a bit of an exaggeration__ more like the semi-sprung toes on hoggy's WLs. don't get me wrong, i like the slightly upturned toes. in fact, i ordered boots on the same semi-sprung last, but in the T.O.W. model.

not only have i seen a [similar] built, i own a pair. i got the SD HH x Bison TC [ie, toecaps+backstay] :: Swing Last :: close trim :: single mid-sole + Vibram composite half-soles :: 1/4" lowered block heels [Quabaug]

initially, i loved them cuz they looked unique, but after awhile i couldn't stand to see the side profile ... as i have described them, with the heel butt sticking out the back. 'had the heels sanded down a bit & replaced the Quabaug with Cat's Paw to get a bit of lift back. 'still not quite satisfied, so i'm going to have 'em sanded down a bit more [ie, like close to the Viberg Servic boots] when it's time to re-heel.

... to each his own, of course. i'm just sharing experience for peeps who want to know the nuances when selecting options.

will post some pix when i get a chance,

Edited January 19, 2013 by BrownMetallic

[garden gnomes in space]

i know what you mean about White's block heel sticking out, but DenimJunky's seem to not suffer from that. I kind of like them to be honest. I probably wouldnt do the 461 last, but thats my personal preference. I also think the burgundy CXL looks much better than the burgundy calf. Its def. richer in color. Nice build DenimJunky