Levi's Vintage Clothing

[devilish]

I'd like to throw my support in for the overall LVC aesthetic as well. I like to tuck my shirts in and the lower rise of most Japanese denim, combined with an increasingly shorter shirt length, make this difficult. I found myself always trying to pull up my jeans to my actual waist.

I am about to get my first pair of Warehouse (thanks to the super deals thread) so I'll find out how they match up. The other Japanese brand I still like a lot is Sugar Cane, they have some cuts that fit the style I'm after very well.

Being an ex-pat though means that from a very early age, to me, blue jeans were always Levi's (even if sometimes they were actually Lee's), also as I've stated before in another thread, I really miss when jeans don't have a red tab and arcs.

[Paul T]

[

go Paul. I posted exactly the same sentiments on this thread a few months ago.

Levi's dont give a fuck about their heritage other than a marketing tool to sell more jeans.

lVc was only started inthe '90's cos they were getting caned (sorry) by Japanese repro.

we've been over this before, but personally I don't think either of those statements is true.

Levi's Japan were, along with Evis, the first to resuscitate selvage denim. It's true the best japanese companies made them pull their socks up -but many of the people I meet at Levi's have an overwhelming sense of their own heritage. They simply have the problem of satisfying the mass market and denim aesthetes at the same time.

Shutting down Valencia st was indeed an act of vandalism, and I despise Phil Marineau, the man who did it, but LVC consistently have produced some of the best fine denim, along with Warehouse, Toyo and Real McCoys. It's good to see, also, that some people are getting bored with fast-fading denim and realising the virtues of Cone.

[josh mullen]

I'd like to throw my support in for the overall LVC aesthetic as well. I like to tuck my shirts in and the lower rise of most Japanese denim, combined with an increasingly shorter shirt length, make this difficult. I found myself always trying to pull up my jeans to my actual waist.

I am about to get my first pair of Warehouse (thanks to the super deals thread) so I'll find out how they match up. The other Japanese brand I still like a lot is Sugar Cane, they have some cuts that fit the style I'm after very well.

Being an ex-pat though means that from a very early age, to me, blue jeans were always Levi's (even if sometimes they were actually Lee's), also as I've stated before in another thread, I really miss when jeans don't have a red tab and arcs.

I also tuck most of my shirts in, so i appreciate where you're coming from. A shirt tucked into lower rise jeans always looks a little silly to me. I really like the king-hell high rise of the LVC '44s -- a few days in them, or my '55s and it becomes difficult to wear anything without a 12.5" rise. It was an error to leave sugar cane off the short list of Japanese stuff I like.

You'll definitely enjoy warehouse. I have a pair of 800s and would recommend that specific cut. However, I have seen that a pair of 700s can be picked up from the J Crew site for something like $140 with the promo code "MUSTHAVE."

[dr.house]

It's a personal thing- do you prefer the clean, flat Cone or the (mostly) slubby and hairy japanese Denim? I like both, but wearing a pair of LVCs after some 'japanese days' is like coming home to me , dunno why exactly.

I like the authenticy and the simplicity of LVCs, and of course the way they fade. But I can't say Cone is better than Kaihara or something like that.

Sugar Canes (Repros), on the other hand, are also very close to the originals, I like them a lot. That's the reason why I started my 66 diary, and man, I can't tell which one is nicer or even better...

Uh, and I don't like the small hem seam on many jap jeans (a part of Sugar Canes), one lil' detail I don't like on the ROYxCone too. The hem seam on LVCs is mucho nicer imo.

[roy6]

I picked up a Sunset shirt from the Barney's sale recently, and was comparing it with an old version I have, from I think 2002/3.

The new one looks great, and all of the design elements are there, but I noticed the materials have gone downhill. Not so good, especially considering the new price-point. My new shirt is a washed one, so I thought maybe the non-washed version would be different, so I stopped into the Levi's flagship store last week where they have the unwashed made in America version, same same.

On the older version, mother-of-pearl buttons, the new ones are plastic.

Speaks for itself.

A bit hard to see, but these shirts are the same size, look at how the underarms and sleeves are the same size, but the older shirt is much wider at the base. The old shirt I had cut off and hemmed to wear untucked, as it had a really long and wide tail. It would have come down several inches past the hem of the newer version, and tapered out even further. The new version seems to have been tailored for a more modern, slim fit.

It is a really nice shirt, but I was disappointed that it had been altered so much from the original design & specs.

[Vinneus]

nice find roy!

[grooveholmes]

Super sweet pickup, roy. Thanks for sharing that info. The MOP buttons difference is the saddest change, IMO-- it's nice to have that subte "pop" on a workwear piece.

[Shorty Long]

Nice info. I ended up getting the newest, US-made Sunset shirt and I came away really impressed with the chambray. I've said this before, but I tend to think that the fabric is the very same ROY used for our contest boxers.

I picked up a Sunset shirt from the Barney's sale recently, and was comparing it with an old version I have, from I think 2002/3.

The new one looks great, and all of the design elements are there, but I noticed the materials have gone downhill. Not so good, especially considering the new price-point. My new shirt is a washed one, so I thought maybe the non-washed version would be different, so I stopped into the Levi's flagship store last week where they have the unwashed made in America version, same same.

On the older version, mother-of-pearl buttons, the new ones are plastic.

Speaks for itself.

A bit hard to see, but these shirts are the same size, look at how the underarms and sleeves are the same size, but the older shirt is much wider at the base. The old shirt I had cut off and hemmed to wear untucked, as it had a really long and wide tail. It would have come down several inches past the hem of the newer version, and tapered out even further. The new version seems to have been tailored for a more modern, slim fit.

It is a really nice shirt, but I was disappointed that it had been altered so much from the original design & specs.

[roy6]

Nice info. I ended up getting the newest, US-made Sunset shirt and I came away really impressed with the chambray. I've said this before, but I tend to think that the fabric is the very same ROY used for our contest boxers.

It looks the same to me too, really quite nice. No problems with the fabric itself, except the lack of the selvedge detail under the collar.

[hferris]

http://cgi.ebay.com/VTG-1st-Gen-501-1930-1940-LEVIS-SELVEDGE-Jean-36-X-30-/140499949325?pt=US_CSA_MC_Jeans&hash=item20b673170d

Is this guy SERIOUS??

[colgems1966]

http://cgi.ebay.com/VTG-1st-Gen-501-1930-1940-LEVIS-SELVEDGE-Jean-36-X-30-/140499949325?pt=US_CSA_MC_Jeans&hash=item20b673170d

Is this guy SERIOUS??

ha, that's funny!

[airfrogusmc]

I agree with Vin, and anyone else who shares this particular point of view. I used to really like samurai, flathead, et al., but my desire for a slightly roomier -- and in my opinion, more traditional -- fit led me away from them and to LVC/warehouse almost exclusively. One of the main issues i have with a lot of the Japanese stuff is what i perceive to be an out-of-whack rise/upper thigh ratio. For me, the lower rises featured on many of the Japanese cuts upset the overall aesthetic of the jean when worn. This isn't a problem if you're looking for a slim/modern fit, but it becomes an issue if you'd prefer a more classic look. About a year and a half ago i began going with LVC and warehouse exclusively out of an appreciation for the the way their stuff fits. After a while i started to notice that i no longer liked the sort of "artificial-looking" fades many of the Japanese brands yield (by "artificial-looking" i mean the typical flathead/pbj-type fades that bear no discernible resemblance to vintage denim.) To be clear, i think most of the jap denim is amazing, and can see why its so popular with people who enjoy this type of thing. I simply prefer the fading properties of cone denim (but confess a love of the LVC '67s, which aren't cone.) So, long story short, i moved away from much of the Japanese stuff in an effort to find a more traditional fit and wound up finding a much greater appreciation for the fading properties of cone denim.

Agree Josh.

[Guest redchris]

I defer to Paul T's inside knowledge of Levi's staff appreciation of their heritage.

I got into LVC in the 1990's via a shop in Manchester called "geese". They had all the first pieces. All I have left is the 1873 1st blue jean.

It appeared to me then that Levi's had hit on something 5*. From having to rummage through affleck's palace piles of used for selvage, I could now buy a deadstock pair of big E, actually made at Valencia Street!

Can you do this now? My favourite ever LVC was the 1944 jean, deadstock. But LVC seemed to think I wanted to pay £300+ for a pre-knackered pair in a tin lunchbox (remember the rust & blue?)

I hear what everyone is saying about Cone, it is amazing and love to LVC for keeping its connections with the mill, but to move production of its lvc line all over the globe defeats the object imo.

I hate low-rise jeans, I could never wear skulls etc. and I like my denim to fade slowly. But Sugar Cane, Warehouse, Buzz Rickson and Edwin (with their Lee repros) have kept the faith more than LVC.

[SLAB]

Sugar Cane, Warehouse, Buzz Rickson and Edwin (with their Lee repros) have kept the faith more than LVC.

Agreed; yes Cone denim is amazing but I remember checking out my pair of '44s when they just arrived. it was a feeling of disappointment. Im a sucker for those nice little construction details and unfortunately they seemed to lack mostly on lvc denim. I got rid of them afterwards, also because of a sizing disaster (another thing they dont seem to get right). I will probably give them another try; they are after all Levis and it just feels wrong to be a denimhead and not even own a single Levis but it sure as hell wont be bought at their new prices. I'll take a Warehouse jeans over LVC any time but thats just my opinion.

anyway i dont mean to start another round of lvc bashing; i love checking out this thread, lots of valuable info and great pictures.

btw endclothing has received a first batch of the summer collection

[Shorty Long]

US-made "Sunset" on sale...

http://www.oki-ni.com/mens-shirts/levi+39s-vintage-clothing-chambray-sunset-shirt/invt/lev0616blu/

[MHP]

LVC Suspenders SS11 collection (from Brund in Copenhagen)

[dr.house]

^Those are superrr nice!

[jyoni]

Agreed; yes Cone denim is amazing but I remember checking out my pair of '44s when they just arrived. it was a feeling of disappointment. Im a sucker for those nice little construction details and unfortunately they seemed to lack mostly on lvc denim. I got rid of them afterwards, also because of a sizing disaster (another thing they dont seem to get right). I will probably give them another try; they are after all Levis and it just feels wrong to be a denimhead and not even own a single Levis but it sure as hell wont be bought at their new prices. I'll take a Warehouse jeans over LVC any time but thats just my opinion.

anyway i dont mean to start another round of lvc bashing; i love checking out this thread, lots of valuable info and great pictures.

btw endclothing has received a first batch of the summer collection

I've loved my 44s as they have aged (the only unfortunate side of things has been the delicacy of the fabric). Lots of subtle parts of the weave are coming through really beautifully. But the raw state definitely lacked the irregularity and character we all love. I would guess looming at the low weight lends the fabric more consistency and evenness.

[erk]

a nifty little detail I noticed on my 1955s. this is the only piece of cone denim I have with a irregularity like this. pretty neat. there are other cool irregularities, but this is the most noticeable.

[tropicalbird]

^I think most will call that a defect. Are there refunds?

[dr.house]

Really not typical for Cone (and/ or LVC). But if you don't like to return 'em- live with it, I don't think it's that bad. Wabi sabi for the win.

[erk]

it was not my intention to call attention to this as a flaw or defect. I think its pretty cool. I just had never noticed such a thing on Cone fabric before. I definitely will not be returning. thats silly.

[Maynard Friedman]

I defer to Paul T's inside knowledge of Levi's staff appreciation of their heritage.

I got into LVC in the 1990's via a shop in Manchester called "geese". They had all the first pieces. All I have left is the 1873 1st blue jean.

It appeared to me then that Levi's had hit on something 5*. From having to rummage through affleck's palace piles of used for selvage, I could now buy a deadstock pair of big E, actually made at Valencia Street!

Can you do this now? My favourite ever LVC was the 1944 jean, deadstock. But LVC seemed to think I wanted to pay £300+ for a pre-knackered pair in a tin lunchbox (remember the rust & blue?)

I hear what everyone is saying about Cone, it is amazing and love to LVC for keeping its connections with the mill, but to move production of its lvc line all over the globe defeats the object imo.

I hate low-rise jeans, I could never wear skulls etc. and I like my denim to fade slowly. But Sugar Cane, Warehouse, Buzz Rickson and Edwin (with their Lee repros) have kept the faith more than LVC.

I discovered geese when I lived in Manchester in the late 80s - a great shop in a great location - that alleyway/courtyard setting was like something from a film set!

I think Zip Code on Oldham Street also had a decent selection of second-hand 501s too as well as other decent 50s Americana inspired stuff.

[opmsm0k3r]

it was not my intention to call attention to this as a flaw or defect. I think its pretty cool. I just had never noticed such a thing on Cone fabric before. I definitely will not be returning. thats silly.

Just wondering where this was on your jeans. I actually noticed my '47's also have a similiar defect right on the left thigh area.

[erk]

right upper thigh below seat.

it is not a defect.

[Guest redchris]

I discovered geese when I lived in Manchester in the late 80s - a great shop in a great location - that alleyway/courtyard setting was like something from a film set!

I think Zip Code on Oldham Street also had a decent selection of second-hand 501s too as well as other decent 50s Americana inspired stuff.

There were a few places around what is now called the Northern Quarter selling decent stuff. Afflecks was blown once Morrissey claimed to have found big E there in an interview.

[stresMaldo]

Lol...

I can't tell if people are joking or not.

These are some of the details I thought we all loved about our beloved denim?!

Loom chatter anyone?

Return em?? COME ON NOW!!

Erk, am I trippin? I'm with you on this.

[aho]

^Admittedly I had a chuckle when I read the "defect" line...

Just to be clear, I think we all actually prefer to have loom chatter so returning it would be out of the question!

[grooveholmes]

a nifty little detail I noticed on my 1955s. this is the only piece of cone denim I have with a irregularity like this. pretty neat. there are other cool irregularities, but this is the most noticeable.

My 47s have a small, irregular bump on the left thigh near the outseam. I've also a pair of RB15s (made with Cone) that have one just like that. I agree-- it's not a big deal, it just makes it more unique.

[Vinneus]

....cut em some slack, kids a bird brain.