Buzz Rickson

[mstax]

Hi everyone!

New here, long time reader, first poster. I have a question on the Buzz Rickson USN chambray shirt. This is my first BR item and I pretty impressed. Nice and crisp chambray, all cotton stitching and a good fit. On this site there is some detailed information on the shirt and I have a question on two characteristics: https://www.historypreservation.com/products-page/brands/buzz-rickson-1944-u-s-navy-chambray-shirt-revised-fit/

It says this shirt has a collar stand for crisper appearance. Now I wonder: indeed the collar feels a little stiff but does anyone know if there is some material in between the collar to make it stand up? I’m not quite sure if there is or if it will relax after some time wearing. I’m kinda hoping there is not interfacing fabric in between because I’m not a fan of that.

Second question: it says this shirt has an exact copy of the original-style rayon-on-cotton labels. Now I’m wondering if the label is really rayon on cotton or a look-a-like style in polyester? 

Just some details that I’m interested in.

Thanks in advance!

[roomtemplacroix]

@mstax I'm not entirely sure about the label, but I will say after a having a couple of these shirts and wearing them for years the collar does not maintain stiffness over time. 

[mstax]

23 minutes ago, roomtemplacroix said:

@mstax I'm not entirely sure about the label, but I will say after a having a couple of these shirts and wearing them for years the collar does not maintain stiffness over time. 

Thanks! Well that’s good news as I’m not a fan of too stiff collars. This might be a difficult question to answer but any idea what kind of fabric is used for that interfacing part? Kinda hoping it’s not polyester.

[julian-wolf]

Don’t know for sure in this case, but wouldn’t starched cotton be the standard choice?

[mstax]

1 hour ago, julian-wolf said:

Don’t know for sure in this case, but wouldn’t starched cotton be the standard choice?

I have no idea but that would be great. I don’t think a polyester fabric belongs in that shirt since it should be an accurate repro. But, then again, I have been surprised before by a lot of other brands using for example a polyester thread in proper repro stuff like denim and chambray shirts. 

[mondo]

I don't know if the "Greyhound" version differs from their regular U.S.N. chambrays – sounds like the collar might be one area where it does. I have a couple of Buzz chambrays; the collar has never been notably stiff, except possibly when the shirts had that freshly-purchased starchy feel. The only thing I would change about them is that the button holes seem to become loose far more easily than any other shirt I've owned. Buttons often come undone even though they haven't been placed under noticeable strain – i.e., if wearing a sweater, removal might cause a couple of buttons to slip through their holes. The fabric wears more nicely than most, though. More texture, particularly around puckered areas such as cuffs and seams.

[Maynard Friedman]

7 hours ago, mondo said:

The only thing I would change about them is that the button holes seem to become loose far more easily than any other shirt I've owned. Buttons often come undone even though they haven't been placed under noticeable strain – i.e., if wearing a sweater, removal might cause a couple of buttons to slip through their holes.

I have the same issue with a Mister Freedom chambray, that I believe uses the same fabric (and probably button hole technology!).

[mstax]

Indeed the buttons feel a bit flimsy and cheap, a few are already quite loose. Anyway, it’s an easy fix so I don’t mind that much. I do think if they would upgrade the buttons to a more substantial weight that would add to the whole feel of the shirt.

Still have no idea what’s in between the collar and cuffs but there is definitely an extra layer of fabric there. Could it be just the same chambray fabric? It’s not glued to one side because I can move it from one side to the other.

Edited October 8, 2022 by mstax
Wanted to add something

[Maynard Friedman]

^ Does it really matter?

[mstax]

8 minutes ago, Maynard Friedman said:

^ Does it really matter?

Honestly, yes to me it does. I care about what I wear and I want to make an effort to choose natural fibers over synthetic ones. I was buying products based on the contents of the label and thought I was good by doing so. Turns out I wasn’t. A garment can have for example 100% cotton on the label but it can be sewn together with a poly thread (and that happens most of the time, even companies that market themselves using only natural fibers). I choose the BR chambray upon the fact that is has all cotton thread construction. It’s not only environmentally better but also it ages better over time. So when I noticed there is an interfacing fabric in between the collar and cuffs I started to doubt if it’s a poly or polycotton interfacing to add the stiffness. Now I’m not an expert so I have no idea what that is, but I’m buying the product so I should be able to know what that is because to me it’s important and I’m investing the money. I’ve just been let down by too many brands in the past. I guess I can always email BR with that question.

I had an interesting journey nitpicking over garments the last years : )

[pudaspriest]

Anyone familiar with old M series Buzz Rickson stuff? Just picked up this faded B-15D, in decent shape considering the age. I quite like the look, very different from any other jackets I own. Knits are a bit beat so I might get them replaced at some point but it is wearable as is. Product number is M11045, can't find much info on it even searching in Japanese. Any idea how old this actually is? Apparently the color processing is called ナイトロフェードモデル (nitro fade model).

[Hopethisoneisnttaken]

On 9/15/2022 at 9:11 PM, bartlebyyphonics said:

having tried on the biggest size they make I can concur; these come up slim all round; a pity; I would love a pair... but no dice...

If you’re still interested in the style the Warehouse version is available at Celluloid. 

[Ciabatta]

Anybody with Buzz Rickson jeans familiar if OW was shrinks much more after washes? These WW2 models in a tagged 36 measure about 33 at the waist. I’m on the fence with keeping them. 

[vIGGiou riou]

cross post

it's not bomber, it's Buzz Rickson x William Gibson 

Edited January 16, 2023 by vIGGiou riou

[Thanks_M8]

Straying a bit from the classic 5 pocket jeans.

Got these M43035s (1945 model) in camel off of ebay last week.
Like the fit, like the fabric, like the price as well. 

Edited January 26, 2023 by Thanks_M8

[mstax]

Does anyone know if the Buzz Rickson chinos like the Original Spec and 45 are 100% cotton stitched?

[mstax]

On 1/26/2023 at 7:26 PM, Thanks_M8 said:

Straying a bit from the classic 5 pocket jeans.

Got these M43035s (1945 model) in camel off of ebay last week.
Like the fit, like the fabric, like the price as well. 

Good fit! Actually looks a lot less wide then the pics online show. May I ask what size you are wearing?

[Thanks_M8]

Thanks, I think the high water cuff makes them look a bit slimmer, but they are a tad tight in the waist. Good pre lunch, bit worse post lunch

also actually am slim, these are a size 30, could rock them without a belt. 

with a 31 I would probably need it.

[alpharikk]

US Army WWII Pullover Denim Shirt after wash! 

[NilsLW]

Wow that’s a beautiful shirt! I’m totally getting one of those in the future.

[vIGGiou riou]

My new L-2B

[mlwdp]

Selling a black watch cap for $50

Buzz watch cap real cheap for sale:

$50

https://www.ebay.com/itm/204351361039?mkcid=16&mkevt=1&mkrid=711-127632-2357-0&ssspo=ljDARqCLRCy&sssrc=4429486&ssuid=ljDARqCLRCy&var=&widget_ver=artemis&media=COPY

[southofnonorth]

My old Buzz jeans – straight 47 style cut – can’t remember the model 

 

Edited September 26, 2023 by southofnonorth

[roomtemplacroix]

i recently picked up a buzz rickson a-2. it’s been hard to find any info online for it, i know it’s a dubow contract model from 1944 and that it’s been discontinued. it was brand new when i received it despite it being made quite some years ago. lot’s of cool texture happening across the different panels. pictured wearing it over a t shirt with my m43036 chinos. this jacket is pretty versatile for me and can layer a sweatshirt underneath which is great. 

[julian-wolf]

I'm sure this has been asked before (hell, I've probably even asked it myself), but how's sizing on Buzz shirts? Interested in the classic chambray work shirt (and also the recent William Gibson version). How does the XL fit compared to a Warehouse 42 or a Freewheelers 17?

[mondo]

1 hour ago, julian-wolf said:

I'm sure this has been asked before (hell, I've probably even asked it myself), but how's sizing on Buzz shirts? Interested in the classic chambray work shirt (and also the recent William Gibson version). How does the XL fit compared to a Warehouse 42 or a Freewheelers 17?

You'll be wanting the 18-18 1/2, which I think is the current XL. According to History Preservation, BR revised their shirt sizing a while back so that everything is effectively one size smaller. 18 equates to a FW 17 (I have a Neal chambray for comparison, as well as a few other designs). Perhaps intentionally, the work shirt sleeves are quite short – the cuffs will not entirely cover a watch, for example, or protrude from a jacket sleeve. I generally wear them rolled up. Also, they're prone to coming unbuttoned at points of stress – the buttonholes seem to stretch more on these shirts than the average chambray. Having said that, the character of the chambray is more "three dimensional" than just about any other work shirt I own (FW, Papa Nui, Homestead, Orslow, Sassafras, probably some others I've forgotten). The Gibson shirts may well have slightly different measurements.

Edited September 23 by mondo

[MythicSquirrel]

2 hours ago, julian-wolf said:

I'm sure this has been asked before (hell, I've probably even asked it myself), but how's sizing on Buzz shirts? Interested in the classic chambray work shirt (and also the recent William Gibson version). How does the XL fit compared to a Warehouse 42 or a Freewheelers 17?

for me; BR 15/medium = Warehouse 38, but I would buy a 16 next time for a looser fit. Between a Sugar Cane flannel and a Buzz Rickson chambray I found the pattern essentially identical. 

[indigoeagle]

2 hours ago, julian-wolf said:

I'm sure this has been asked before (hell, I've probably even asked it myself), but how's sizing on Buzz shirts? Interested in the classic chambray work shirt (and also the recent William Gibson version). How does the XL fit compared to a Warehouse 42 or a Freewheelers 17?

I'd say the XL is similar to a 42.
For a more comfortable fit I got the XXL. I think, only Junky has it.

[willi]

2 hours ago, indigoeagle said:

I'd say the XL is similar to a 42.
For a more comfortable fit I got the XXL. I think, only Junky has it.

Hinoya also sells it as 3L. The tag size is 18-18.5.

[Alec Leamas]

Yeah, as mentioned above pretty small!

There's also quite a variance between the models.

I have a classic blue chambray and an olive hbt work shirt, both bought recently, within a couple months of each other and both in size 16-16.5...sizing below: