Freewheelers, Bootleggers Reunion, Bubo, etc.

[vlad_III]

Damn. You went all out. 

[JDelage]

I have the sweat pants in cream. They're nice but I had not realized they have no back pockets. Big drawback IMHO.

[AlientoyWorkmachine]

Ha what a collection.

I'm still fence sitting the 1922 jacket. My plan is to do that til it's sold out then I can't get it. But I really like it. 

[CSL]

Yeah. Me too. It's a ways more 'over the shoulder' than the later models. Not sure how I feel about that. 

I'll be curious to see it on Broark.

Edited June 23, 2023 by CSL

[tjsma]

@Broark How does the closed front jumper fit? It looks quite loose and long from the pictures on Speedway.

[Broark]

I'll get some photos of the closed front jumper worn posted soon.
@tjsma I think it's a little misleading since they posted fit photos of the unwashed version (the O/W model should be available soon).
I haven't washed it yet, since honestly I won't be able to wear most of this stuff for a few months given that it's summer.
When trying it on unwashed, the shoulders and sleeves seem good and should shrink up nicely, but the body length is quite long so I'm hoping for a good bit of shrink there.
I'll also remember to take some pre and post wash measurements. Something I normally forget to do.

[AlientoyWorkmachine]

Is the denim in the 1922 jacket the same as what's in the 51 jacket/jeans? Their standard denim as I believe? 

[Broark]

@AlientoyWorkmachine No, I believe it is the same denim as the 601XX-C 1937 jeans and 506xx 1933 jacket released last fall.

[Broark]

Pre-wash measurements for the 504xx size 46.
Chest: 27.5 in.
Shoulder: 24 in.
Sleeve: 25 in.
Length: 32 in.

And post warm wash plus some time in the dryer.
Chest: 25.75 in.
Shoulder: 23 in.
Sleeve: 24 in.
Length: 30 in.

I think this shrank up perfectly, when trying it on unwashed I was sure that it wouldn't shrink enough.
Denim is lightweight and pliable after the wash and dry, I can see myself wearing this a lot once fall rolls around.



Still trying to determine the best place to take fit pics in the new house, excuse the crappy angle (and shoe boxes that I need to put away).


L2: This might be my ideal jacket for spring / fall, very lightweight and ample room for layering if I want to throw a sweatshirt on underneath.

[Dr_Heech]

Nice fit on the L2 @Broark

 

[tjsma]

@Broark Thanks for posting. The 504xx looks great on you. I’m tempted to buy myself one now.

[shredwin_206]

1937 dirty and beat to hell. Wash is overdue 

[shredwin_206]

1937 post wash 

[JMS]

On 6/22/2023 at 5:34 PM, vlad_III said:

Damn. You went all out. 

I'm not sure I've ever seen @Broark not go all out 

I'll add it's nice to see the stuff up close from his collection as it comes in. 

[shredwin_206]

1927 type 1
Neal Chambray
1937 jeans 

[vlad_III]

Are Freewheeler’s denim made using vintage sewing machines too? 
I noticed the side seam on every cut has this reverse stitch at the end. That wasn’t possible with vintage machines. Nearly all other repro brands get this part right. Not that it matters, just wondering. They seems to care so much about other details such as the length of the side seam and the width and shape of belt loops. 
I know for their WWII models they stated they focus on quality more than historical accuracy. 

[vlad_III]

Here’s a pretty good video (Japanese) explaining what I mean. At 12:00

 

 

Edited June 30, 2023 by vlad_III

[UkeNo]

@Broark 

What’s the weight and hand of the CPO like?

It looks to have a kind of sateen sheen to it, is it like that at all?
Do you think it will it bleed like a denim indigo? 

[l13902733261]

The print quality on those are amazing, color depth details it had it all.

[Broark]

@UkeNo The fabric is very lightweight and crispy, very breathable and suitable for the summer months. It's also pretty flat, no irregularity to it.
I don't think this one will fade/age like a sateen or a denim, the weave is much tighter than both of those. I'd say it's closer to a poplin or chino.
I suspect over time the sheen will wear and subside a bit, I'll wash it soon and report back.

[mlwdp]

That Las Vegas shirt will definitely get some conversations going lol. 

Edited June 30, 2023 by mlwdp

[Duke Mantee]

16 hours ago, vlad_III said:

I noticed the side seam on every cut has this reverse stitch at the end. That wasn’t possible with vintage machines. Nearly all other repro brands get this part right. 

 

Backstitching has been possible on sewing machines since the late 19th century 

[AlientoyWorkmachine]

2 hours ago, mlwdp said:

That Las Vegas shirt will definitely get some conversations going lol. 

Some things really don’t need to be repro’d 

[vlad_III]

On 7/1/2023 at 12:19 AM, Duke Mantee said:

Backstitching has been possible on sewing machines since the late 19th century 

Correct Duke. As the guy in the video explains. The full turn singer 103 made in germany in 1908 already can go backwards when the lever is pressed. The model after that, the singer 31-20  (1910) is a half turn machine. 

Half turn singers, like the one he uses to make his repros, a Singer 31k20  made in 1930 in the UK. That is a half turn machine and runs at a lot slower max speed. hence the tension can be much stronger and it can sew much thicker yarns at strong tensions. Those were used for the crotch/fly parts and the side seems running down from the waist. Those could not go backwards. 

[chicote]

On 6/29/2023 at 3:44 PM, vlad_III said:

 

I have no say about anything regarding Freewheelers construction, but in my experience sewing almost exclusively with old half-turn machines the photo you shared is pretty much exactly how I finish seams myself. Looking closely at the stitch path, it appears to me not to be a true reverse stitch but rather a narrow triangle. When I’d finish a seam in this way, I’d stitch slightly off my line for the final stitch, turn the garment 90 degrees, go one stitch forward, then turn again and stitch back into my original line. That is, to my unprofessional eye, at least, what this photo looks like to me. But I am open to being corrected! Just wondering if that possibility might clear up the issue.

[vlad_III]

That’s what I thought as well. Maybe the garment is turned rather than the machine reversing. that would achievement the extra strength. I was just wondering…

on back pockets Levi’s seems to have used a full turn machine so they could reverse at the pocket opening for additional strength, hence the back pockets threads are usually not as thick as the crotch or side seams. Maybe it’s a time thing. Garment turning with a half turn machine would’ve taken too much time. Who knows…

[Broark]

601XX-C 1937 pre-wash, ~7 months of wear and 2 washes.
Currently drying after the wash, so I'll get some photos up tomorrow once they're dry.

[shredwin_206]

1937 jerky for ya! 

[mstax]

@Broark The 504xx looks great, and indeed shrank perfectly for you. Here's the age old question again since none of the retailers specify this (as with most garments unfortunately). You know if the sewing is done with 100% cotton threads?

[Broark]

@mstax I don't have any official confirmation on it but I believe that the threads are 100% cotton.
I actually don't know of any Vanishing West items that don't use cotton thread off the top of my head.