The Flat Head

[Cold Summer]

Think so.

 

The thing is, it's tough to estimate - because FH uses unsanforized fabrics for their shirts, the amount of shrinkage can be a bit unpredictable and each shirt will fit a little different from the next. They try to fix this by adjusting the patterns after they get the first samples to compensate for shrinkage but it's still a bit of a guessing game. The best thing to do is just check the specific measurements of the shirt you want to buy.

[dwilson123]

Do you mean the fabric is unsanforized then rinsed so there is a bit of shrink left in it?

[itsbenhere]

I think what it is is the fabrics are unsanforized and irregular so they behave differently, but once the shirts are made and before they're sent to retailers they're all rinsed (washed?) to avoid shrinkage in the future. If they didn't know how much the samples shrunk they would make the shirts the same but they would shrink differently once rinsed, instead they compensate by changing the measurements to go along with the shrinkage for the particular fabric/shirt

[Cold Summer]

Yep, that's exactly right Ben.

[SuperJackle]

Ah got it. Good to know.

[Iron Horse]

I assume since they're petrol based pomades you need to shampoo your hair to get it out?

 

You don't get it out of your hair; with Lockhart's it's all about the buildup. 

 

If you have to though, olive oil works.

 

 

Off topic, just received these thanks for recommendation

 

 

Congrats bradl, they'll change your life. 

Edited September 6, 2015 by Iron Horse

[ALB]

Sooooooo I just realized I now have to go TTS for my jeans now. Bought a size 31 3012 from a user and while I can button them up the thighs are rather tight...which had a raw 12.8 inch measurement according to SE charts. Still hoping for some stretch but I don't think these would be super comfortable either way.

 

Yet another pair that might get added to my sale

[Blue Nemo]

feel sorry for you bro! hate that kinda feeling...

[pudaspriest]

I will be travelling to Japan in a couple months and will be in Nagano for a bit during my trip so I was wondering if anyone has any advice for where to go to see the best of the flat head. From what I can tell this place is the store I should be going to but I just wanted to make sure there isn't someplace better in the area. Thanks in advance!  

Edited September 15, 2015 by pudaspriest

[itsbenhere]

Sooo jealous!!! Enjoy!

[Cold Summer]

Pudaspriest,

 

Yep, that's the head store in Nagano city, it's really nice!

Also check out both Googies cafes nearby. There's another Dessert Hill's Market branch in Chikuma near Googies and the FH HQ, they have a lot of great leather stuff there. 

 

The store in Ueda, a short drive from Nagano, also has a great selection.

Edited September 15, 2015 by Cold Summer

[pudaspriest]

Sweet thanks a lot man! That shop is only a few minute walk from where I am staying so I will definitely check it out. Any idea if the Dessert Hill Market in Matsumoto is worth checking out? Looks like it is pretty close to the castle so it would be an easy place to sop by.

[edmond]

how far is nagano from tokyo?

[itsbenhere]

http://lmgtfy.com/?q=god+dammit+ed

 

Also am I the only one who finds it funny that it's Dessert Hills Market instead of Desert Hills Market? Did you ever tell them that Kyle?

[edmond]

Hahahahah

[pudaspriest]

how far is nagano from tokyo?

 

90 minutes by shinkansen, little over 3 hours by car

[Cold Summer]

Yes, I did.

 

They didn't care.

[Blue Nemo]

What's your opinion on the flannels, especially the cut?

I think the western shirts fit better, and the snap buttons are killing it. But I find them to be too much, with the front yoke and pockets.

Think in the end I prefer the works version. Even though I am not a fan of baked buttons.

[itsbenhere]

Props for fitting the westerns, the first one I got was a heather grey/red mix I think in 2012 and god damn that thing was tiny. The first shirt that didn't fit because I was "too fat."
 

I love the westerns that have the single snap on pocket, I think they look a lot better on the buffalo check compared to the buttoned variant.

 

I like work-shirts beter in every other shirt type though

 

What are baked buttons?

Edited September 18, 2015 by itsbenhere

[Blue Nemo]

About the buttons, that's the info I got from MileHighEverton!

. I think they're meant to mimic vintage Bakelite plastic buttons. I guess that's the price for being so committed to the repro aesthetic.

Baked buttons.... Should have said bakelite, sorry.

I have them on my BR shirt too, although the BR versions are inferior to TFH, they still feel cheap.

Ben, you are wearing a 40 in their shirts? Me too, but I thought you have a bigger, taller body then me.

[Cold Summer]

Flat Head's flannel shirts are my absolute favorites, although I haven't been too crazy about the new fabrics from the past few seasons. And yes, get the Western versions - the snap buttons rule. Especially the hexagon buttons.

 

Personally I love the design of the yoke, most other brands' western shirts look weird to me now. IMO Flat Head's pockets/yoke are perfectly proportioned.

 

Of course the issue for most people is the fit, I'm skinny so I love how slim-fitting the shirts are, my problem is that they're too short. Then again, this is more likely an issue with me than the shirts, since I'm the fit-unfriendly combination of tall and skinny.

[Blue Nemo]

I am skinny and average or short and i really prefer the lengths in the works versions. But yes, the overall fit is better with the westerns.

What bugs me the most though about the works shirt is how huge the upper arm sections are. It's wild. Like with my oni jacket. They could use an adjustment, although I recognized the same with the IH pendants.

Kyle,you got any pictures of the old flannel texture/fabric???

[itsbenhere]

Contstantin, yes I'm a 40. I'm average but bigger naturally, 5'9" 180 pounds but for some reason I take a lot smaller sizes in tops than that suggests. Maybe because I have a lot of mass in my legs/thighs? Not sure...

 

And Kyle, when you say not as impressed with the newer fabrics you mean the new types of flannels right? They keep remaking the normal buffalo check, did that fabric change? I have one on the way. 

 

here's some comparisons of some flat head buttons...

 

Least favorite one, I agree it could be nicer. but with this fabric maybe heavy buttons wouldnt work..

 

 

This is one of the oldest fh shirts I have, you can see the silver coming out. Very nice feel, would prefer no silver, but still looks good

 

 

This one's my favorite normal black button, super nice and shiny, high quality feeling

 

 

As far as white buttons go this is the ultimate, pretty sure its steel coated with an enamel paint or something. Eventually will trip to silver and look super nice. Camera was acting up with this one

 

 

Does anything beat coconut though?

 

 

And to conclude, flat head is the best no one beats them etc etc

[FeloniousMonk]

Flat Head flannels are the bee's knees, the cat's meow, and the unicorn's merkin all rolled into one. Practically lived in this thing last winter/spring, and I'm counting down the days until I can bust it out again:

 

The western fit is great, it's pretty much the only company's flannels that don't need tailoring for me. The upper arm probably is a little big, but I'm ok with that as part of the style. It seems fitting, especially in the heavyweight winter flannel which is basically a jacket anyway.

 

Curious what you don't like about the yoke, as I also think it's nicely proportioned and a little distinctive with the peak in the back without being over-the-top WESTERN.

[Cold Summer]

I just don't like the patterns on the new shirt fabrics (not just flannels) as much as the ones from 2011, 2012, and 2013. Nothing wrong with them, they just haven't been grabbing me as much.

[Sugar Mountain]

I love Flat Head shirts. For me, it's where the brand is an its absolute strongest. I own one western flannel but find it to be a little snug across the middle of my trunk and so I don't wear it unless it's with an ultra thin undershirt - shame, as the fabric is the nuts. However, workshirts are totally my thing: the cut is just perfect as far as I'm concerned and I love the fabrics and buttons.

 

Top two that I own would be the red native check flannel (that Ben pictured above) and the indigo linen short-sleeve that Self Edge did a run of. I haven't been quite so excited about the past few seasons' shirts either but still think that TFH stands above most other brands in this respect.

[itsbenhere]

I agree with you guys, the old ones were cooler. I'm fact, the only shirt I'm excited for this winter is a redo of a shirt I've been looking for for a while, the small check orange/black flannel.

[Broark]

I like the buttons shots Ben!

Flat Head shirt sizing scares me a bit. I just picked up an IH flannel in XXL and I like the fit a lot.

So I've kinda written Flat Head off since their shirts seem to run so small.

Maybe a size 44 in the wide cut would work better for me, or maybe I could find some 46's that are closer to an actual 46 chest.

Always keeping my eyes open for one that really grabs my attention then I'll make the jump.

[cmboland]

My FHxNFxTY are 5 months old at this point and have had 3 washes

 

[Blue Nemo]

Thanks for the buttons Ben! I agree, the catseye buttons look dope! And yeah, corozo buttons are the best there is.

And nice update, cmboland! They are coming along well.