The Flat Head

[Kyle@TFH]

So guys, a few of you have already heard about this but I'm moving back to the US in about two weeks.  I've had a great time working with Flat Head and love their products as much as ever.  It's just that after several years of living in Japan I'm ready to come back to the US and be a little closer to my family and things going on near home. 

 

I won't be directly working with Flat Head, but my relationship with them won't necessarily be completely ending.  I'll still be wearing my 1001s nonstop until at least September or so, and I'll still be available if you have questions or just want to talk about stuff.  In other words, this won't really be affecting you guys at all, but I thought everyone should know.

 

This account should still be around but please send messages to my other account Cold Summer since I'm usually logged in/checking that one. Thanks!

[Sugar Mountain]

Good luck with the move Kyle. I understand that the distance from family can be tough at times. Cheers for all your posts and shedding light on one of my favourite denim companies. It's been a great insight.

[aho]

Best of luck Kyle! As someone who has also returned to my country of origin after living in Japan I understand the situation a bit...However, Japan will always stick in your blood and I'm sure you'll make it back one way or another in the long run! Thanks for your insight and direct look into the innerworkings of FH!

 

@Sugar Mountain, that being said, I could def. see myself living in HK

[Sugar Mountain]

Make it happen mate!

[BlackPig]

All the best Kyle...you are always helpful.

[JohnM]

Kyle,

 

Thanks for letting us know and also for your great work for TFH. You've always been very patient and responsive to any questions I've had and it's been great getting to know you a bit in recent weeks.  All the best in whatever you may do next.

 

John

[ThinFinn]

best of luck kyle and thanks for everything mate.

you brought some great info and knowledge to this place which we all appreciated to the max.

thanks

[Max Power]

Must be a tough step, but understandable. Good luck in your next task, I'm curious where you will end up.

Edited March 28, 2014 by Max Power

[Danny @ Rivet & Hide]

I'm going to miss our emails. You've been a real asset to TFH in the last year.

Best of luck, Kyle

[Cold Summer]

Thanks guys!  I'm going to go home to Atlanta to rest for a while and work on my writing.  After that, who knows?

[bradl]

Must be bitter sweet leaving something like this, but it's good you recognized it your self. All the best.

[Broark]

Good luck with the move Kyle, I went through the same thing after moving back to the states from Singapore.

And I grew up in and around Atlanta, still have some family there too.  Small world!

[dcs]

Could someone help me understand the difference between these two shirts: HNW-52WR (regular size?) and HNW-52W

 

The translated description for the HNW-52WR reads:

 

Regular size models is a model setting than the normal flat head pattern especially have the clear width. Finishing styling, adjust the size feeling comfortable while keeping balance each each body part, shoulder width, width, etc., and the DART into the back waist looks refreshing and yet easy to wear. Very tight and short flat head pattern of normal model than want a bit more clear width, is recommended.

 

Seems confusing and a bit contradictory because it sounds like the "regular" is a looser fit but then it talks about darts in the back?

 

Which version should one assume a retailer is selling if they don't specify the model number?

[Vulcan]

Here's from Cold Summer on Regular sizes:

 

In case y'all didn't know, last year FH started offering a new fit in many shirts called the Regular Size. These are supposed to be roomier in the chest and shoulders for each size and might be a good choice for guys who prefer proportions similar to IH shirts.

 

I wouldn't assume anything with these shirts being as expensive as they are. Make sure to verify the model you're ordering and to check sizing before you buy. Just my 2 pennies.

Edited March 31, 2014 by Vulcan

[S-Town]

I believe it is saying that it is a roomier fit, but they put in darts so that it keeps the typical Flat Head silhouette.  Or close to it anyway.

[Cold Summer]

1001: Five months, two washes.  As usual the photos haven't been edited, the colors and contrast are all pretty true to life.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

These are really starting to look good.

[Max Power]

Indeed, they are.

[Cold Summer]

Here's an update on my SKB-70 horsehide boots, after I cleaned and conditioned them today.  The color's changed to a really nice red-brown, I'm really happy with how these are coming along.

 

 

 

[reallypeacedoff]

Much like Cold Summer, my SE05BSP are 5 months old and are starting to really show some character now. 3 soaks and 2 washes.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

[Max Power]

Awesome fading for just 5 months!

[reallypeacedoff]

Thanks MP. To tell you the truth, the fading totally escaped me. I wore them for 5 months straight, blew out the left pocket bag to the point my iPhone was falling out. Packed them away (for the last 4 months since I moved to the US) and finally decided to get them fixed. Took them to the local tailor and he was like I am going to hot wash these before I handle them (for good reason ha) and then boom! I really wish I took before photos to see the difference because I'd imagine they would have been quite substantial. Not sure what he did but yeah, the contrast came out really well. 

[Cold Summer]

Wow, those look awesome.  The hot wash definitely brought out some nice contrast on the thighs.

[tmadd]

Not sure what he did but yeah, the contrast came out really well. 

 

He hot washed them.

 

Joking aside...this is one thing I've learned a lot about since I started washing more frequently, and washing with hot water and detergent vs just cold soaks with dr. bronners.  In addition to indigo that is ready to wash away, any dirt, debris, sweat or other matter that is sitting on or in your jeans effects how much you can see of what's actually happening in terms of fading with the denim.  Often times, people will have what is potentially a beautifully faded pair of jeans but it displays less contrast and dynamics that it otherwise would because the jeans are dirty so they just have a sort of uniformly dingy color 

 

I made my biggest step in learning this a year and a half ago or so when I machined washed a pair of sugar canes that had probably not seen water for 2 or 3 months, which was pretty gross considering I was working in the coffee bar, using pomade in my hair, riding my bike all over LA, and farting just as much as always. I pulled them out of the wash and there were all sorts of splotches on the front of the thigh, and they were even more intensely visible once the jeans dried.  I was worried that the detergent had spent too much time in contact with those places, and washed away more indigo than they should have..almost like bleaching it out.  After looking at it closer, I became reasonably certain that the "splotches" were actually the only places that had been adequately cleaned and descummed and that if I washed again, everything would be uniformly bright and vibrant blue like the "splotches".  Turns out I was right.  The jeans were WAY further along than I had realized and that was a turning point towards me washing way more frequently.

[Cold Summer]

Interesting insight Tyler.  Maybe I'll give mine a hot wash next time.  I definitely understand what you mean about how the color gets kinda dingy after a while, my 1001s look a lot duller on the thighs than they did before the last wash.

[Maynard Friedman]

tmadd, I'm sure most of our mums would have told us the same thing if we'd asked their opinions!

[themaster]

Tmadds correct but again it all depends on how you abuse and use your denim.

[cmboland]

Now here's something I usually add to this discussion.

We talk about washing methods and I totally agree with machine washing hot with detergent but the debate always comes up inside out or normal for washing. I always say normal because otherwise you won't get enough agitation and exposure to the dirtiest part of your denim armor.

[bradl]

Tmadds correct but again it all depends on how you abuse and use your denim.

Yeah, I only frequently wash my jeans now because I am working in them and they get incredibly dirty/dusty every day. So they see a form of water once a week-two weeks. But if I was just using them to walk around, and sit at a desk job the washes would be more few and far between.

[tmadd]

I haven't experimented much with this, but I tend to gravitate towards inside out, although I do was rightside out from time to time.  My rationale is that if you're washing warm and on a cycle that has a decent amount of agitation, the detergent is going to do it's thing and lift dirt regardless of what side of the denim it's hitting first.  Inside out simply acts as a buffer against direct abrasion from the washing machine.  If you're having the "best way to machine wash" discussion though, you're already way ahead of the game.

[kiya]

I haven't experimented much with this, but I tend to gravitate towards inside out, although I do was rightside out from time to time.  My rationale is that if you're washing warm and on a cycle that has a decent amount of agitation, the detergent is going to do it's thing and lift dirt regardless of what side of the denim it's hitting first.  Inside out simply acts as a buffer against direct abrasion from the washing machine.  If you're having the "best way to machine wash" discussion though, you're already way ahead of the game.

 

This is exactly how i also feel.  Detergents have chemicals (even natural ones have natural agents) which are designed to penetrate and remove grime and dirt from fibers, doesn't really matter whether or not the jean is inside out.  Yet i've only washed my jeans inside out because fifteen years ago Yamane (Evisu's founder) told me to do so and i would not argue with the dude.

Edited April 6, 2014 by kiya