The Flat Head

[spython]

If you purchase jeans from SE, repairs are 20. 45 for outside pairs.

 

 

Repairs are $20 flat for jeans bought from Self Edge, $40 for jeans not bought from Self Edge.

 

guess I am dropping my flat heads off this weekend!

[mr.m]

can anyone show me how 2111 the 15th anniv turns out?

is it really diffrent with the other type? i mean the fade..

i'm very interested with the 20oz unsanfor that FH made

[saintkeat]

3001-A Month 5 update.

 

 

[antiseptic]

hmm after searching about flathead 3001 for a while

iam curious about the 3001's arcuate

this arcuate i saw in most of the google pict, and also western online store

and this arc i saw in rakuten

so does FH create 2 different arcuate for west and east market?

[Broark]

I believe they have different arcs for the different makets.

Probably has something to do with you know who...

[Cold Summer]

The bottom one's only sold in Japan, the top version is what's always sold overseas.  Only the Japanese version of the 3000-series jeans have the old stitch.

[mr.m]

i guess the second one is the old arc..

and the first one is the current arc CMIIW

Edited June 21, 2014 by mr.m

[Cnl]

Does the pioneer denim shrink more than whats indicated in the selfedge website?

[reallypeacedoff]

Yes, especially if you do 2-3 hot soaks. Mine shrank like 2" in the waist and about 3.5" in length. However, 3XXX denim is easy to stretch.

[tmadd]

I came here looking for a discussion that happened recently asking for evolution pics of the Diamond and Dots Wabash…it must have taken place in the Self Edge thread, but here are some shots anyways:

 

 

 

 

[Foxy2]

Very nice!

[Graytrain]

Fuuuck. Thank you for posting it. The diamond - dot patern really is subtle. I am so glad to see the typical blues and vertical falling. How long have you had it now? 

Edited June 25, 2014 by Graytrain

[tmadd]

Fuuuck. Thank you for posting it. The diamond - dot patern really is subtle. I am so glad to see the typical blues and vertical falling. How long have you had it now? 

 

A little over a year.  It's gotten some good wear, but I've spent a lot more time wishing I was wearing it than wearing it.  

[itsbenhere]

I love when people post shots of different things that have been worn.  Instead of seeing 100's of pictures of super contrasty flat heads we need some more wabash and leather evo! Does anyone have a leather jacket that's gone through some wear? I don't think I've ever seen one that wasn't new

[tmadd]

I love when people post shots of different things that have been worn.  Instead of seeing 100's of pictures of super contrasty flat heads we need some more wabash and leather evo! Does anyone have a leather jacket that's gone through some wear? I don't think I've ever seen one that wasn't new

 

You'll be happy when I'm done with today's project.

[itsbenhere]

Really wish there was a hallelujah emoticon here.  Really looking forward to it, thanks tyler!

[Foxy2]

From the Hard Bird label:

[Max Power]

Nice evo on the wabash. I love mine, too - subtle yet nice fadings have developped. There was a superfaded one in the Lightning farmer issue.

 

Has anybody real fitpics of the 3012 (after soaking)? The cut (taper) looks almost ridiculous but might look fine when worn.

Edited June 25, 2014 by Max Power

[tmadd]

Nice evo on the wabash. I love mine, too - subtle yet nice fadings have developped. There was a superfaded one in the Lightning farmer issue.

 

Has anybody real fitpics of the 3012 (after soaking)? The cut (taper) looks almost ridiculous but might look fine when worn.

 

I'll try to snap some photos of Jonathan, my partner in crime at SEPDX.  His 3012's are really really good on him.  The thing about the taper on that jean is that it's so drastic, that a portion of it, proportional to the height of the wearer (or their selected inseam) will be removed with hemming.  I think this is actually a great thing, and a clever way to make a jean with a non straight leg jean that will give a similar silhouette to wearers of significantly different heights.

[itsbenhere]

I just put up some flat head stuff for sale (native check, tees) so for any of you interested, check my sales thread in the sig!

 

To contribute, really loving the hat I picked up a few weeks ago...

 

[ronin]

Cheers all. I'm looking to pick up my first pair of FH denim. Up to this point after reading through most of this thread, I've gathered the 3009 is preferred by most over the 3005. This could be flawed logic, however I've arrived at this conclusion due to the fact there isn't much discussion or many pics of the 3005. 

 

My understanding is the 3005 has a straight leg, is wider through the thigh, knee, & hem, and has a higher rise than the 3009. That said, the 3009 is similar to the 3005 but with a lower rise and a more tapered cut. Also, it seems those who pick up the 3009 typically size up +1 over their size in the 3005. What's not clear to me: the height/weight of those who prefer the 3009 over the 3005...and which model & size I should get. 

 

My specs:  Ht: 6'1". Wt:~195 Actual waist measurement: 35.5.  Also I have a pair of Momotaro 201, tag 34 (measures 36") that almost fit perfectly post-soak but are a still bit tight in the thigh/top block after continuous wear. 

 

All this considered, I'm looking for input/recommendations. Though the consensus is the 3005 is too wide at the hem, I'm leaning toward them in size 36 considering the post soak measurements. Thoughts?

Edited June 26, 2014 by ronin

[itsbenhere]

It totally depends on what you want imo, the cuts have way different looks.  The 3009 is an awesome cut that is tapered enough that it totally looks modern; the 3005 for sure has that vintage straight cut loose leg appearance.  

 

I'd imagine that the 3009 seems to be preferred (even though there aren't many pics of it either) because most people just don't feel comfortable with loose straight jeans, and are brainwashed by people around them that jeans need to be slim/tapered and have a small hem width.  

 

I love my 3009s, but I think I would have honestly enjoyed the 3005s better and I'm absolutely going to get a pair eventually.  After getting the sugar cane '47's, I've realized that I love the straighter cut and the mobility that comes from a lack of taper.

 

I think this pic really displays that straight cuts don't have to look sloppy at all (these are the 1005's, which should be the same cut but in a slightly different denim)

 

 

keep in mind those are even a bigger size that he would take.  another thing I've realized is that jeans look/feel way slimmer once they've been sufficiently broken in, so keep in mind that a pair that feels too loose may be perfect after it's actually become a pair of jeans, and a pair that feels great may eventually feel to small, even if you've gotten shrinkage out the first shot.

 

Good luck and let us know what you get!

[tmadd]

Cheers all. I'm looking to pick up my first pair of FH denim. Up to this point after reading through most of this thread, I've gathered the 3009 is preferred by most over the 3005. This could be flawed logic, however I've arrived at this conclusion due to the fact there isn't much discussion or many pics of the 3005. 

 

My understanding is the 3005 has a straight leg, is wider through the thigh, knee, & hem, and has a higher rise than the 3009. That said, the 3009 is similar to the 3005 but with a lower rise and a more tapered cut. Also, it seems those who pick up the 3009 typically size up +1 over their size in the 3005. What's not clear to me: the height/weight of those who prefer the 3009 over the 3005...and which model & size I should get. 

 

My specs:  Ht: 6'1". Wt:~195 Actual waist measurement: 35.5.  Also I have a pair of Momotaro 201, tag 34 (measures 36") that almost fit perfectly post-soak but are a still bit tight in the thigh/top block after continuous wear. 

 

All this considered, I'm looking for input/recommendations. Though the consensus is the 3005 is too wide at the hem, I'm leaning toward them in size 36 considering the post soak measurements. Thoughts?

 

Ben makes a handful of good points.  3005 is actually about dead even in the rise with the 3009 at most sizes, and slightly shorter at the sizes above about 33 (this all from my memory of last time I compared them, and not looking at charts or measuring anything at the present moment, but I was in depth last time I looked at them closely).  I'd say that most people have to size up on the 3009 because they measure to tagged size pre-soak/shrink.  3005's do too, but they have far more room in the hips so people can usually make their usual size work.  

 

The 3005 is a dead straight cut, and while it's not a crazy full leg, the absolute lack of taper below the knee does provide a much boxier silhouette than a jean like the SC 1947(which has a slight taper that significantly effects the shape of the jean, even though it appears straight legged) , which is comparatively relaxed in many dimensions.  I own a pair, and quite like the shape, but it's contingent on either desiring a true vintage stovepipe fit, or getting them hem/cuff dialed in to sit with no break.  I went up a size in the 3005 because I wanted more rise, and I wanted to maximize the slouchiness of the fit, and I love them.  

 

3009 definitely has the capacity to look slimmish on a tall skinny due, 3005 will not look slim on anyone.  If you're seeing photos of both and liking them, you'll probably be ok with both.  Almost everyone loves how they look in 3009.  Nobody who thinks they like what the 3005 looks like based on photos will be disappointed.  

[Maynard Friedman]

In my experience the 3005 is not quite a true vintage cut in comparison to other repro brands and the main reason for this is the shorter rise. I've owned 2 pairs of F350s and a pair of 1005s and ended up selling 2 of these pairs. I wear a size 32 in just about everything and bought all my FHs in a 32. With my F350s the waist and even the thigh seemed fine for me based on measurements alone (I need a thigh of 13"). Unfortunately the lack of rise (<11" post wash) caused the thigh to appear tight as there was no room to sag a little and this was the critical factor - a higher rise would have made them perfect for me. I didn't want to size up as the waist would have increased disproportionately to the small amount I'd have gained in the rise and been way too big.

I sold my spare pair of F350s and bought some 1005s, which seemed to have marginally more thigh room and a higher front rise, plus I'd heard the 16oz denim shrank less than the 14.5oz. Unfortunately, the difference in cut wasn't that great and in a raw state I decided they still wouldn't work for me so sold those too. It's a shame as I love FH denim but their cuts just don't work for me in the same way that Warehouse, SDA, Full Count, Sugar Cane and Ande Whall do.

[Sugar Mountain]

To me, the 3009 seems a more proportional cut - especially for western body types. The 3005 is a revised 50s cut with a lower rise that looks great on Asian frames but not necessarily for others with wider hips and larger thighs.

 

I hear you on the cuts MF: I love the way TFH denim fades but haven't worn or seen a cut from them that truly works for me. Meanwhile Fullcount, Warehouse and Sugar Cane nail, it so TFH takes a backseat. Their shirts and tees on the other hand are perfection as far as I'm concerned.

[Maynard Friedman]

Agreed on that SM, I don't have any of their t-shirts but have 6 of their workshirts - perfect fit for me.

[Kwaker]

I've owned the 3005 and F380 (similar to 3009) ... despite buying a couple of sizes of each pair, I couldn't avoid the dreaded wedgie displayed in the left-most picture ... I love the 3xxx series denim but the retro anti-fit seats does not work with me.

 

Ronin ... make sure the seat works for your anatomy.

 

 

 

 

 

[rustygoose]

Anybody own 3003 & can comment on fit/measurements?

 

Have tried most FH cuts, but i have too big legs..
 

[reallypeacedoff]

Unfortunately, I feel our body type generally pigeonholes us to particular brands. My body type (6'3" / 185lbs) means I'm suited to Imperial and Strike Gold jeans best. Sure, I have 301S from IH but for the most part, IH doesn't cater to my frame. Brands like Samurai, even their skinniest jeans (710 for instance) would still swim on me. I would love a pair of Sams one day but I can't justify buying them if I know I'd be unhappy in them. As you said, "most people just don't feel comfortable with loose straight jeans" and when you don't feel comfortable, what's the point? I'm going to be honest but I find a lot of people (not a majority however) on SuFu buy jeans for the details but the jeans look like shit on them. 99.8% of people will judge you on your fit, not the details. The bottom line is we all want jeans to look good on us and that means being comfortable in your "second skin".

Edited June 26, 2014 by reallypeacedoff

[ronin]

Thanks for all the input -- a lot of great comments! Ultimately, I agree; ideal fit & comfort trumps brand. I may just have to order a few different brands based on measurements that would seem to best suit me post soak and go from there. 

 

Additional questions:

Are there specific brands I should seek out (as well as avoid) considering my height (6'1") and a need for a ~36" measured waist & 13"+ thigh post soak?

 

Is the wedgie effect more common with certain cuts --  i.e. 55, 66, etc --  or is this also relative to body type & brand? Can this potential issue be identified when first trying on the unsoaked denim or does this occur after a soak + regular wear?

Edited June 26, 2014 by ronin