Danny @ Rivet & Hide

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127,377 you are so fabulous

About Danny @ Rivet & Hide

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  1. It has a grey weft like the x011. It's closer to the x011 in slub and texture than the 2015 24 oz. At 17 oz. it's a very accessible denim for most people too. I'm looking forward to seeing the real deal once it arrives as hitherto just seen samples.
  2. We are expecting these jeans late May early June. We developed this as a collaboration but then decided mutually with PBJ to put them on general release. There is more of a taper.
  3. As well as a full restock of Skivvy and Stanley T shirts by Mister Freedom we have added the Fletcher shirt in white. This basically the long sleeve version of the Stanley T shirt. Shop Mister Freedom T shirts 3sixteen short sleeve Henleys are available in indigo, black and white. They are made from the same 9 oz. Canadian jersey knit fabric of the popular twin pack T shirts. Shop 3sixteen Henleys and T shirts
  4. Mister Freedom Liquette Tzigane is a standout piece from the SS17 Gypsy Collection. There is a nod to the French shirting of ‘30s bohemians and good dose of Romany gypsy styling. The shirt is made from a tightly woven 4 oz. printed 100% cotton poplin and has ruched cuffs and back yoke. The shirt also features early-type arrowhead side gussets, chain stitch run-offs, original MFSC chest flap single pocket and open single pocket plus an original MFSC Gypsy Blues woven rayon label. Shop Mister Freedom Liquette Tzigane Shirt Lot 674 jeans from Mister Freedom uses the 50% cotton/50% sugar cane fibre denim from Lot 64 and combines it with the top block fit and back pockets of Lot 64 and slimmer legs of Lot 74. It is in our opinion the best fit yet from Mister Freedom and the Okinawa denim is an unquestionably great fabric. Shop Mister Freedom Lot 674 "Okinawa" Jeans
  5. No but I'll be seeing UES next month in Japan and will discuss it again with them.
  6. Shop Rogue Territory Neppy Denim Work Shirt The new 15.25 oz proprietary Japanese selvedge denim is available in the two main RGT jeans fits - the slim straight Stanton and super slim SK. They have all the classic RGT details including lasso stitch to rear pocket, hidden pen pocket, single needle continuous stitched waistband and hand branded leather patch. A thoroughly modern jean made with thoroughly old school quality and attention to detail. Add to that full restocks of the stealth/black 15 o.z Supply jacket and 12.5 oz. tinted weft SK’s and you have a real treat of a drop. Shop Rogue Territory SK 15 oz. Japanese Selvedge Jeans Shop Rogue Territory Stanton 15 oz. Japanese Selvedge Jeans
  7. Our first major spring drop this year comes from the LA brand going from strength to strength - Rogue Territory. We introduced this brand to the UK a year ago and these new season offerings are further reinforcement of what a good decision this was. The much anticipated Pine Ranger jacket comes in a 10 oz. water repellent American canvas. Taking its inspiration from the classic Barracuta G9, the silhouette is trim and sharp. Gusseted shoulders add a unique and welcome touch to this type of jacket, providing both comfort and style. Welted pockets (two hand-warmers, one chest outside, one chest inside) keep the lines clean. Shop Rogue Territory Pine Canvas Ranger Jacket For a denim option, we have the Supply Jacket – Rogue Territory's updated take on the classic denim jacket. Constructed from a new proprietary (custom-woven) Japanese sanforized denim which has a ring spun yarn and is pure indigo dyed. It also has a unique indigo selvedge line. This gives the fabric a great fade potential due to the vertical slubby nature of the weave. Shop Rogue Territory Proprietary 15 oz Supply Jacket We offer two shirts from the SS17 line-up. The ISC work shirt is a custom made, 11 oz. rope-dyed Indigo Selvedge Canvas. Pure indigo across both warp and weft, this intensely textured material has a real depth of colour and character. The fading from this fabric never disappoints. The Neppy Denim Work Shirt uses a 9 oz. yellow line selvedge from the renowned Nihon Menpu mill in Japan. The 2x1 weave displays clear ‘nep’ – undyed cotton tufts poking through the material – which gives it its individuality. Shop Rogue Territory Indigo Selvedge Canvas Work Shirt
  8. The Railcar Fine Goods Explorer is one stylish double black denim jacket combining vintage details with an ultra modern slim silhouette. The hallmarks of Steven Dang, engineer turned jeansmaker (Steven used to fix the railcars on LA's Pasadena Line) are all over the jacket with strong triple flat-felled chain stitched seams throughout the interior with no exposed edges. Hand-set custom copper rivets strengthen and add style to the front panel pleats and there is a single utility pocket on the left hand side. The jacket is made from a 13 oz. Japanese selvedge denim. Shop Railcar Black Explorer Jacket Railcar also makes great jeans for our female customers. The Vixen is a new skinny fit and the x037 uses a 13.5 oz. selvedge denim with some stretch for comfort. The denim softens up nicely with little wear and will break in yielding natural fades and contrast marks. This medium-rise skinny fit is constructed to minimize any gaping at the lower back and like any raw jeans the fit will develop over the first 20 wears. Construction details include double flat felled back and inseam, custom hand-set copper hardware, hand-branded leather patch, and a traditional chain stitch hem. (We shall put up fit photos in the coming weeks. In the meantime please refer to our sizing guide) Shop Railcar Vixen x037 Skinny Women's Jeans
  9. We just received the first drop from 3sixteen's Summer' 17 lineup with two lightweight and remarkably soft shirts getting us prepped for the warmer months ahead. First off is the Navy Waffle Knit Work Shirt. The fabric is loomed in Japan and as the name suggests has plenty of texture. This shirt features the 3sixteen trademark crosscut back yoke and also has enamel coated buttons designed to chip and age with wear. Next up is the Faded Blue Utility Work Shirt. This lightweight Japanese flannel has a sun-faded worn-in texture, is super soft and will be easy to wear on a hot day. The horn buttons have been burnt for both colour and texture. Shop 3sixteen Navy Waffle Knit Work Shirt Shop 3sixteen Faded Blue Plaid Utility Work Shirt
  10. By the way the xx-22oz-013 arrives next week and a month later the x011 in a new 17 oz weight. Both come in the modified slim tapered fit with a smidgen extra thigh space and narrower leg opening. These jeans and fit modifications have been part of over a year's discussion between me and PBJ (and possibly other retailers) on costly trips to Japan, Berlin and Paris. The 17 oz. x011 was my idea and was going to be a collaboration. Minimums with PBJ on collabs are prohibitively high, exacerbated by the strong Yen (and woefully weak GBP). Rather than keep it on hold until I was in a position to commit I suggested to PBJ they make it a general release for all retailers (including Japanese ones) and that i would buy what I need. It is worth pointing out the scale of not only fabric production but also legendary indigo-dyeing techniques by PBJ. They still manage to deliver this at a lower price point than other Japanese brands we carry in store. I do not see them disappearing from the denim market place any time soon. Customers literally drool over what they make it is so good.
  11. Good point and I should add that some latest fits in jeans and shirts did not come out of thin air. They came from constant feedback from western retailers. the x019 and new fit shirts would otherwise not exist. PBJ now does size 6 in shirts. UES developed larger flannels based on my feedback. I trialled samples for them which they sell directly online and I make no complain about. As I mentioned in my previous post I had no knowledge of this development with OD but I will say that Japanese brands' success with western consumers is often dependent on the relationship they meticulously nurture with their retailers.
  12. We have restocked our core Viberg Boots styles; Boondocker leather sole, Boondocker Dainite sole, Colour 8 Service Boots and Black Chromexcel Engineer boots. We have also launched a new build: The Engineer Boot in colour 8 CXL leather. The boot is made on the 2005 last, has a Vibram sole and Cat's Paw heel as well as a stitch down construction. This waxy Horween leather really does look so good with wear. We cannot wait to see a pair of these Engineers the same condition as Junior's service boots in the same leather after a couple of years' wear (image below) Shop Viberg Boots We also restocked our custom slim tapered fit with Dawson Denim. The jeans are made here in the UK using a 14.25 oz sanforized japanese red-line selvedge denim. Shop Dawson Denim x Rivet & Hide Slim Tapered Jeans
  13. Ok. Got you on the whacking up bit. But you do admit that in VAT/duties alone there is an added 30% cost but say you'd be happy to buy from a UK store if the price difference were 10-15%.
  14. I have stayed out of this debate because this development was as much as a surprise to me as it was to anyone else. I for one have never made any protests to PBJ over OD and its price structure. Objectively, I can see many sides of the arguments that have been eloquently posited here but see a contradiction in your post. You admit that the cost of importing runs at around 30% but then expect the price difference between Japanese retail and UK retail to be 10-15 % which implies we need to absorb to cost of importing and work on much lower margins than the likes of OD. Import costs are just one of the aspects. Operating a store with staff in Central London is punishingly expensive. Business rates, just one example, are already high and are set to double from April. Few countries have a higher VAT rate than the UK so 20% of any sale in the EU goes to the taxman. I would never "whack" up prices but faced with a depreciating currency and rising costs have had to implement some to protect the viability of the store. I recently heard a pro-Brexit government minister tell retailers they need to absorb these higher costs and not pass them on to their customers. I have written to him and offered him a day's work experience at the store in Windmill Street so he can look at the books and see how fucking hard it is to run an independent store in London selling seriously good shit in the current climate.
  15. Pure Blue Japan has opened up its range to a wider audience with the introduction of the x019 fit. This is described as a ‘relaxed taper’, offering a higher rise, a little more room through the top block, roomier thigh and a reasonable taper. This first iteration is a slubby/neppy 13.8 oz. denim full of Pure Blue Japan's signature texture & character. We have also had a full restock of the always popular x013 in their signature 14 oz. slubby denim, slim tapered fit. Shop Pure Blue Japan x019 Relaxed Tapered Jeans