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I think PaulT wore a pair of 103XX or 101XX

Mine are 103XX. Yes, tricky buggers, not as hard to wear in as my natural indigo Levi's 1873, but hard work. When my Full Count are at nine months, I'll switch back to the SDA for another three months. The denim is made by Nihon Menpu, using cake from India (details in that Mens File piece).

I'm pretty certain the D1154 is a different denim. Completely different texture.

So here's the jeans. I see now they're pretty dirty. These are at least 8 months' wear so, yes, hard work. I think I'll give them a month or two in the near future (I'm trying to put off new jeans till 2014) and another wash. They're very interesting - definitely a take on the 1947 denim, they share the same graininess.

These look a bit boring at the moment, but they looked great at one wash, I think they'll look pretty good after their third wash.



Here they were straight out of the wash... so you can see the yellow cast is grunge...


HEre they are new:


One wash?


Unfortunately, i seem to have lost my LVC 1947. How this happens I don't know but it seems common. Alcoholic blackout after coming home with no pants? So, for comparison's sake, here's a trio with the SDA< my current Full Count (just hit six months, but I'll wait till May for washtime), and my LVC 55 (around 9 months and again obviously due for another wash).


Edited by Paul T
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That's right, my 001s are higher rise, even though they're tagged 1" smaller. Why not indulge in a bit of LHT action?

Indeed. I do think my next denim purchase will be LHT, more along the Leepro line than something like the 001, however.

Anybody have the scoop on when SDA will be doing another Leepro?

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^Much obliged. After seeing your photos I'm very tempted to grab the 101xx for my next pair, but I'm not sure if I have enough patience for natural indigo. I have a wandering eye when it comes to jeans.

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I'm really glad I got the 103XX - someone whose opinion I respect a lot found them for me and told me I had to try them, as they are a classic. I have worn in so many jeans I don't really mind if some have a less contrasty fade, and having failed with one pair of natural indigo, I had to have a proper go. They are a real challenge. They're also hard to photograph, just like the 47 - the lower legs etc have retained nearly all the indigo and are nice and dark. 47 styler jeans are also weird, they seem to vary a lot from wash to wash.

Unless you reckon you will give them a full year of wear, going for the synthetic indgo version would make life easier.

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so to clarify, this is an example of the 103xx 24x dip natural indigo with 8 months +/- on them?

You got it. But bear in mind that this is the same pair in the same state, but cleaner so the white areas come thru, and photogrphed in bright light (which sadly is not available in London at the mo).

This denim also seems to marble a huge amount, one Sufu-er described them as ruined! But I shall persevere - my only problem with them is that I much prefer shorter jeans these days.


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Hey chaps, what's the general consensus for sizing on 103s? I'm looking at a pair of x's-33s, the silhouette modelled on the 103, and only sz 34 or 32 is available.

I'm generally a 33/34 depending on brand, so it's pretty much TTS. Is TTS the way to go or should I size down/up?

Also what's "nep weave" and how's it different from the usual?

Edited by Aries
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I'm generally a W32 in most Japanese brands - and a W31 in RJB and Fullcount (for their more relaxed cuts).

In SDA I'm more of a W33, especially for cuts like SD-103.

I recently got the SD-515 (which is a SD-103 cut) in W32 and their are uncomfortly tight at the moment. I think/hope I can stretch and wear them enough to make it work, but I should have gotten them in W33...

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Ah, well, if I want those jeans to fit me I would have to size down two which seems a bit much to me. So I would have to go for the size 28 if I want a size 30 in the waist. I usually go TTS or size down one at most. Maybe I'm reading the charts wrong?

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Here are BiG style measurements of my SDA-001 for anyone interested. They are still raw.

- Tag size 31

- waist 33.5

- front rise 12.25

- back rise 15.5

- thigh 13.25

- hem 8.75

- inseam 38.5

For comparison, here are the raw measurements from the Studio D'artisan webstore, which are not too far off from my own. Interestingly, for Setterman, the waist of the 36 is listed as 98cm (38.5).


Edited by Maynard Friedman
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thanks maynard. was looking at various measurements on rakuten for the SD-001, and they were all over the place. 2 1/2" over tagged for the 36 is probably correct. Got a nice tax return coming in a couple weeks, I have BiG looking into a pair of Warehouse 1100 for me. If that doesn't work out, maybe the SD-001....

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SD-102 is a looser cut overall, check the equivalent measurements here:


You can also see the SD-D02 - I think they're a natural indigo version of the SD-102.

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