Tender Co. Denim

[Fooleo]

Warmed up enough yesterday to throw on my new Lot 900 from the most recent run 

[rodeo bill]

^Looking great! Thank you for the photo :-)

On 2/11/2022 at 2:53 PM, sensy said:

How long (short?) is the jacket? Size 3 for me probably. 

901 jackets fit the same as 900 except for the length. Here are some measurements (for rinsed jackets, they're fully shrunk and will stretch out and down a little with some wear, if necessary):

Size 1:

Shoulders: 18.5"

Chest (armpit-to-armpit): 22.5"

Sleeve length (under arm): 20.5"

Full length: 23.5”

 

Size 2:

Shoulders: 19"

Chest (armpit-to-armpit): 23.5"

Sleeve length (under arm): 20.5"

Full length: 23.5"

 

Size 3:

Shoulders: 19.5"

Chest (armpit-to-armpit): 24.5"

Sleeve length (under arm): 21"

Full length: 24"

 

Size 4:

Shoulders: 20"

Chest (armpit-to-armpit): 25.5"

Sleeve length (under arm): 21"

Full length: 24"

 

Size 5:

Shoulders: 20.5"

Chest (armpit-to-armpit): 26.5"

Sleeve length (under arm): 21.5"

Full length: 24.5"

 

Size 6:

Shoulders: 21"

Chest (armpit-to-armpit): 27"

Sleeve length (under arm): 21.5"

Full length: 24.5"

Edited February 14, 2022 by rodeo bill

[Toegun]

Lovely Tender purchase, double indigo shirt

Fabric deets:

[srudy]

Love that one @Toegun

[rodeo bill]

New things coming along, but in the meantime, here's an early stage update on my type 901 Pleat Pocket Jeans Jacket. First three images are a month in, after an initial wash, the following three are after a hot wash and dry yesterday:

Some lovely brights coming along on the pocket edges, and where the bottom of the pocket collapses, and some very early stage proto-traintracks down the back.

[rodeo bill]

here's a new mainline jacket, just in and starting to show up at stockists. Type 941 Turvy Compass Pocket Jacket:

The idea was to take a shirt with side splits, and rotate it a quarter along its axis, so the tails are at the sides, and the seams are at the front and back. The body is panel lined with cotton satin curtain lining, but the sleeves are unlined, so they feel more like shirt sleeves and can be turned back very nicely.

This fits quite generously, and wears very nice loose and/or layered with a shirt. Here are a couple of photos, from the new SS22 photoshoot, taken with a vintage stereoscopic camera on medium format film:

The buttons are turned olive wood, and the pockets are copper riveted at the front and back corners.

[goodrain]

Introducing... Tender 132 shorts

Had these hemmed from 36 to 25 and they were still too wide for me. Decided to turn them into shorts. 

 

 

[rodeo bill]

^those look like yellow ochre denim molleton? from Present in London?

[goodrain]

@rodeo bill  I trust that you are right.

I got them second-hand, but not sure where they were originally purchased from

When I search on google all of the listings are from Japan? https://item.rakuten.co.jp/smaclo/10016327/

Edited March 22, 2022 by goodrain

[rodeo bill]

thanks @goodrain yes that looks like the same ones- I think they were also stocked by Present but looking back yes there were more pairs in Japan! Nice to see them again :-)

[Toegun]

Tender shirt keeping me cozy whilst working in the home office/man cave

Deets on the nice buttons and chest pockets

Next to me is my chair of shame, not even gonna try and count how many denim tops are heaped up here or the chair I can actual sit in 

 

[mondo]

^ haha @Toegun, that could be me (except with a crossweave denim Tender shirt) and my does-it-even-still-work guitar amp of shame

[sensy]

I've been wearing my 492 shirts a lot, and I just love how the cuffs wears in. 

[rodeo bill]

thanks for this! The cuffs on Tender shirts are a bit unusual- normally you have a seam allowance (maybe 1/4" or so) on the end of the sleeve, where the cuff fabric is sewn on to the end of the sleeve. With my cuffs, the sleeve itself goes all the way down to the bottom edge of the cuff, and the cuff itself just sits on the outside of the sleeve end. I saw this on a railway uniform jacket and really liked it just as a construction detail, but it has the added effect of setting the cuff and sleeve fabrics in tension with each other over shrinkage: generally fabrics shrink more in the warp than the weft (eg you normally get more shrinkage in the leg length of unsanforized jeans than you do in the waist), and here the cuffs are cut sideways. This means that the sleeve panel shrinkage pulls there cuff fabric up, and the cuff fabric pulls the sleeve fabric in. That's what's causing the vertical fade lines (where the sleeve is pulled in by the cuff and causes ridges underneath the cuff), and the horizontal creases (where the sleeve is pulling the cuff fabric up, making it concertina).

TLDR very glad you're enjoying your shirt :-)

[sensy]

2 hours ago, rodeo bill said:

thanks for this! The cuffs on Tender shirts are a bit unusual- normally you have a seam allowance (maybe 1/4" or so) on the end of the sleeve, where the cuff fabric is sewn on to the end of the sleeve. With my cuffs, the sleeve itself goes all the way down to the bottom edge of the cuff, and the cuff itself just sits on the outside of the sleeve end. I saw this on a railway uniform jacket and really liked it just as a construction detail, but it has the added effect of setting the cuff and sleeve fabrics in tension with each other over shrinkage: generally fabrics shrink more in the warp than the weft (eg you normally get more shrinkage in the leg length of unsanforized jeans than you do in the waist), and here the cuffs are cut sideways. This means that the sleeve panel shrinkage pulls there cuff fabric up, and the cuff fabric pulls the sleeve fabric in. That's what's causing the vertical fade lines (where the sleeve is pulled in by the cuff and causes ridges underneath the cuff), and the horizontal creases (where the sleeve is pulling the cuff fabric up, making it concertina).

TLDR very glad you're enjoying your shirt :-)

Thanks a lot for the detailed explanation! Is the weft/warp shrinkage also the reason the collars tend to wrinkle in a fun way?

[rodeo bill]

52 minutes ago, sensy said:

Is the weft/warp shrinkage also the reason the collars tend to wrinkle in a fun way?

Probably partly, but it's mainly that I make one-piece collars (without a collar stand), rather than most shirts which have a separate collar stand, that acts as a sort of stay between the neck hole (lots of bias fabric cut around a curved shape) and the collar (basically straight). Without a collar stand the collar gets pulled around more, which makes it wrinkle. Also all the panels on all the garments are cut large and then shrunk with washing/dyeing, as is the cotton thread, so there's lots of shrinkage going on in all kinds of directions! These are the textures I've always liked in vintage clothes, and try to encourage in Tender things.

[erockisalive]

Loving my jeans, but does anyone have a tip or a "hack" for keeping this lil guy from popping out? Most of the time it's not an issue, but every so often it pops off when I unbutton it. Would hate to plop it in a toilet.

[AlientoyWorkmachine]

I keep mine vertical and haven't had issues but you could always hand stitch the button hole closed a bit more if you're having issues. 

[MJF9]

^^ Mine also pops through the button hole from time to time… coincidentally tonight I used pliers to push the prongs closer together, I arranged the kink in the metal pin next to the hole and also the pin upright… only an hour in but so far so good… good luck

[persco_]

I have exactly the same problem on all of my Tender jeans. It's the only gripe I have with them. I've tried the plier trick, arranging it vertically, etc but the buttons always eventually pop out. I almost lost one into the toilet, too. Lucky miss.

I wonder why William didn't sew them on? The wire seems a very precarious solution.

[CSL]

Bigger cotter pins perhaps? Available at most hardware stores.

[bartlebyyphonics]

never had this trouble... worn four different pairs...

[rodeo bill]

14 hours ago, erockisalive said:

Loving my jeans, but does anyone have a tip or a "hack" for keeping this lil guy from popping out? Most of the time it's not an issue, but every so often it pops off when I unbutton it.

Thanks for this, and very sorry to hear you've had problems with your button. This has never happened for me, but over the years a few (I'd say no more than a dozen) people have asked about it. I'm very happy to send replacement pin(s) if you ever need it- please just let me know.

My guess is that the button is moving up the pin to the end folded section, at which point the button is no longer in the centre of the pin, and it could just slide through? As @persco_ suggests, a gentle crimp with some pliers could help keep it centred.

As far as other methods of attachment go- I experimented with sewing buttons on, but as the brass edges are fairly sharp it wouldn't have had longevity. Ring-style button backs were another option but they'd then stick out when the button is under tension (ie when being worn). I did also try prototyping a cast button which had its own integrated back, but it stuck out too much, and was a lot less comfortable than the straight-pin style.

As I say, really sorry for the trouble, and do let me know (here or by email) if you'd like me to send some spare pins.

[sensy]

16 hours ago, erockisalive said:

Loving my jeans, but does anyone have a tip or a "hack" for keeping this lil guy from popping out? Most of the time it's not an issue, but every so often it pops off when I unbutton it. Would hate to plop it in a toilet.

I had issues with one button on my jacket, but I closed it with some pliers and put a small bend in it. Also I have the pin in the other way to your picture. 

 

[rodeo bill]

Some new knitwear in! These are knitted in Scotland from the ecru cotton yarn used to weave my calico, for shirts and also jeans back pocket linings. I had a lot of complaints from my knitter (weaving yarn is twisted differently to knitting yarn), but the effect is really lovely. The fabric is a fisherman's rib in the centres of the panels, but each panel is framed with higher tension rib around the edges, making a sort of skeleton of the garment seams. From prototype samples I've found this stretches down considerably with some wear, so the garments come up short initially. I've pulled out a turmeric dyed pullover for myself, which should fade really nicely. I'll keep y'all posted.

here are the fits (both size 3, both brand new not stretched out:

 

[CSL]

How about something like this for retaining the buttons 

Hitch pins

[Onderdonk]

Mine was constantly popping out.  I eventually stitched the button slot closed... then there was the issue with the pin catching on tucked shirts. 

After putting a couple of holes in favorite tees, I stitched a small leather square over the back of the pin and called it a day. 

[goodrain]

On 3/21/2022 at 11:44 AM, goodrain said:

Introducing... Tender 132 shorts

Had these hemmed from 36 to 25 and they were still too wide for me. Decided to turn them into shorts. 

 

 

These are for sale if anyone wants a 1 of 1 lol, size 4

Comes with all of the denim chopped off

Too heavy for SoCal

https://item.rakuten.co.jp/smaclo/10016327/

Edited April 7, 2022 by goodrain

[erockisalive]

On 4/6/2022 at 3:23 AM, rodeo bill said:

Thanks for this, and very sorry to hear you've had problems with your button. This has never happened for me, but over the years a few (I'd say no more than a dozen) people have asked about it. I'm very happy to send replacement pin(s) if you ever need it- please just let me know.

Thanks for the response! Not a big issue! I'll definitely reach out if it becomes a big problem. Like I said, I love the pants, so no complaints there. Keep up the great work!

I'm going to try pinching shut with pliers. Thanks, everyone!

Edited April 8, 2022 by erockisalive

[AlientoyWorkmachine]

Checking in with my woad 129's after a wash. These are likely going on hiatus for the summer here but who knows. They're my favorite pair in the rotation still. No major repairs but reinforcements for broken threads are everywhere - crotch, back pockets in multiple spots, thumbs pocket etc. I've owned for over 2 years now, wear is probably around 1 one year. Washing regularly now and even tumble drying a time or two.