Sugar Cane Denim

[bartlebyyphonics]

On 2/7/2023 at 3:40 PM, indigoeagle said:

In the dropdown NW is non-wash

 

http://pants-shop-avenue.com/item/SC41947/

many thanks

[Dr_Heech]

So as promised, some pics of my SC47's. Bought 2 pairs in 2010 but this pair not worn until 2013/14, but after a small scooter accident (where they got covered in mushy berries and other autumnal debris) they were washed, then stashed away until more recent years where l wear them occasionally. Guess l know I'll never afford another pair so want to keep the colour. Worn with my Duke belt and my old Lvc x Aero leather jacket.

 

Here ya go Neal !

 

Edited March 14, 2023 by Dr_Heech

[roomtemplacroix]

MF jacket made with sc66 denim and a pair of 47s that i have been wearing again lately. 

[Dr_Heech]

On 2/7/2023 at 7:06 PM, Dr_Heech said:

I'll have to get a pic of my pair, although l think they're heavily creased, which is what happens when there all folded up and lying on top of one another in a drawer or suitcase. May have to buy a metal rail or something similar. 

 

 

On 2/7/2023 at 7:10 PM, Double 0 Soul said:

Commission b_F to build you a denim-shrine

After looking about on the web and seeing the crazy prices for a decent metal one, l've decided to build my own with whatever l can find to hand.

Will post up the results when l get it done.

 

[Double 0 Soul]

Bit of old washing line and some garden canes?

Edited February 15, 2023 by Double 0 Soul

[Dr_Heech]

20 minutes ago, Double 0 Soul said:

Bit of old washing line and some garden canes?

Sugar canes you mean 

 

[Thanks_M8]

Recently won an auction for a pair of ecru Okis, SC40115 I think. 
Now the wait for them to arrive begins..

[(10chars)]

I have a size 33 and size 34 BSPOW for sale. Both are brand new without tags. The 33 is hemmed to a 32ish and the 34 is hemmed to a 32.5ish. I can send measurements if there's interest. Looking for $200 for each pair.

[UkeNo]

Fabric question.

Is all sugar Cane ‘Okinawa’ fabric a LHT with green selvedge ID? 
im basically looking for a straight or straight tapered fit in this fabric.  
I had a pair of MF lot 64 Okinawa’s in this fabric but they were far too big. 

If the Canes are the same then I’ll look at them instead. 
Thanks

Edit: my guess is im Looking for Okinawas

Edited February 17, 2023 by UkeNo

[beautiful_FrEaK]

As long as it is the 14oz version then yes.
But there is also a 16.25oz version (70% cotton / 30% sugarcane millet) and I don't know if that is LHT as well.

[julian-wolf]

The lot 300 and lot 301 Okinawa fabrics are both left-handed with green tickers, but are very different overall. The MF Okinawa use the lot 301 fabric.

[UkeNo]

Thanks @beautiful_FrEaK and @julian-wolf

good to know. 

[Denimstoyevsky]

On 2/7/2023 at 11:21 AM, Double 0 Soul said:

Nope.. they’re still hanging in there.. 

.. almost worn away entirely from the other pocket though

So here they are, all patched up and ready to go. Going to give them a run through the washing machine today and then straight into the rotation. This was a complicated repair, Neal, and my sewing machine can't really run over the super thick seams, but managed to work around that. Unfortunately, I didn't have any dirty denim scraps, so had to go with the baby blue, but it's not at all noticeable when wearing them. Thanks again for passing them along!

 

[MJF9]

Good work on keeping them alive - can we expect to see celebratory fit pics?  

Maybe after you get your wear out of them, they can move on to Rudi's museum for eternal denim life

[Denimstoyevsky]

1 hour ago, MJF9 said:

Good work on keeping them alive - can we expect to see celebratory fit pics?  

Maybe after you get your wear out of them, they can move on to Rudi's museum for eternal denim life

Here you go, gents. With the Birks & socks look that is prerequisite here in Berlin

[Double 0 Soul]

1 hour ago, Denimstoyevsky said:

So here they are, all patched up and ready to go. Going to give them a run through the washing machine today and then straight into the rotation. This was a complicated repair, Neal, and my sewing machine can't really run over the super thick seams, but managed to work around that. Unfortunately, I didn't have any dirty denim scraps, so had to go with the baby blue, but it's not at all noticeable when wearing them. Thanks again for passing them along!

You're welcome..

Nicely done.. you've made a good job of those, my efforts were just running repairs, hand sewn patch over patch.

The holes are caused by the bike saddle.. i try not to ride my bike anymore in jeans after this happened to my CSF

..but i'm too lazy to get changed for short journeys.. i spent an hour patching those SC47s one morning only to ride to the Post Office, lifted my leg over the crossbar and heard a Rrrrrip! all of my ... well not very good work was in vain

You should have said, I could have sent you numerous patches from heavily worn SC47s or M41001s i've got loads of buttons too, laurel or standard, albeit they are just cut out of the fly with the denim still attached so you would have to drill out the button back and find a replacement.

Edited February 19, 2023 by Double 0 Soul

[Denimstoyevsky]

Yeah, I've had the same thing happen many times - do a repair, 10 minutes later a new rip. If I get a new hole every time I wear them, that's how I know a pair of jeans is done. But the ones you sent me seem like they have lots of life left. I'll post some updates on them from time to time and, if you have any more to throw away, please think of me. Thanks again, Neal. 

[Thanks_M8]

Really excited for these *-* 

[rockon99]

Some quick post-first-machine-wash (whew) pics of my bspow. 
 

[mk3radial]

1953 Jacket bought in October 2021 online at Sefledge.

I really love this one.

[julian-wolf]

Never seen these before: SC40345

They're really funny. They look overdyed: both tags are grey, the hip patch was added after construction + washing (which I've never seen before on any other modern SC jeans—check out the stitching from the inside, for reference), and the denim looks like it was washed pretty hard during manufacturing. At the same time, all of the [cotton] constructional thread has maintained its original color, as has the white yarn at selvedges of the fabric (forgot to take photos of that). The pocket bags (selvedges included) are clearly overdyed the same as the main fabric. I'd welcome any takes on what the whole deal might be. One way or an other, I'm planning to start wearing them right away(ish). Picked them up for MSRP, ¥12.8k.

[Double 0 Soul]

Is the overdye black or is it just my monitor?

They slapped new patches on washed, pre-distressed, repaired and such.. maybe these^ are a precurser to the 3yr, 5yr and 10yr worn series

I'll do a bit more searching when i sit down to some breakfast

edit- just spotted the 119 so yep, black overdye.. not found any other info tho.. they look similar era to Lot 285

Edited March 14, 2023 by Double 0 Soul

[julian-wolf]

Yep, overdyed black (gray, really). They don’t seem to be hard-washed post-dyeing—just looks like a regular overdye job. Good call about the patches on the hard-washed models, though—I’ve never paid enough attention to those for them to come to mind, but of course you’re right that they had the same feature. They’re detailed the same as the lot 285, but in a little less slim of a cut.

[Double 0 Soul]

Do you think they’ve overdyed a hardwashed pair .. then slapped the patch on?

[julian-wolf]

Hadn’t considered that, but I doubt it. The base fabric is a bull denim (same color warp and fill, to all appearances), and the coloring looks pretty uniform.

The big question for me is what the constructional stitching & the yarns on the selvedges didn’t take the dye, when everything else did. They really don’t look or feel like a different material.

[Double 0 Soul]

So dyed denim/pocket bags which are stitched together then hardwashed.. the washing process bleeds the dye onto the nylon label? .. then they stitch the patch on. 

The jeans must be constructed prior to the wash to cause the puckering.. is the thread cotton or polycotton?

Edited March 14, 2023 by Double 0 Soul

[Thanks_M8]

Stitching should be poly or polycore and jeans washed after dying. Had the same effect on the threads happen on my OD IHs and those have polycore stitching. 

[julian-wolf]

To all appearances, the thread seems cotton (which is all I’ve known Sugar Cane to use in the past), but I’ll take a flame to it later to double check. Of course that would explain the dye not taking, but it would also seem out of character for them. I guess that being the explanation would imply that they’d used some different material of yarns for the edges of the denim, too, since those also didn't take the overdye? Seems a little far fetched, but would for sure be an interesting approach. Makes me a little surprised that Iron Heart doesn't do something similar, since their target audience generally seems very interested in showing off their flashy selvedge outseams.

00, I’m still not sure where the idea of them being hard-washed at any point in the production process is coming from. What’s your reasoning?

Edited March 14, 2023 by julian-wolf

[Double 0 Soul]

I agree on the thread it would be unusual.. i was clutching at straws threads really.. another thing to consider is the buttons and rivets have also been dyed post construction.

1 hour ago, julian-wolf said:

00, I’m still not sure where the idea of them being hard-washed at any point in the production process is coming from. What’s your reasoning?

It might be my monitor or the light (or the dye) but comparing the puckering, roping ect of the Lot 345 .. the general appearance looks more 'worn' than a regualr pair of o/w

14 hours ago, julian-wolf said:

 

 

Edited March 14, 2023 by Double 0 Soul

[Double 0 Soul]

..excues the micro-croping

..also what looks like fading on the waistband

looks very similar to the hard wash fading