SUPERDENIM SMALL QUESTIONS THREAD (Use instead of making new threads)

[jwsach]

well stuff like apc which is produced on a large scale is usually going to be cheaper than lets say roy denim, which is not so. also, stuff like nudie that is superpopular and hyped up will also be more expensive comparatively to stuff that isnt.... supply and demand mixed with small companies (like ooe) competing against large ones (like nudie)... not to mention the different features and shit like hardware and dying methods

[Goominim]

Is www.natterjacks.com a reliable/reputable online store for American shoppers?

[ichiban-]

So I'm interested in Uniqlo denim (non selvedge) and I can't find sizing information on various styles.

Basically the difference between the S series and T series.

I'm looking for a levis 511 to 514 fit preferably somewhere in between.

Any recommendations or helpful information?

Thanks in advance

[Paul T]

noob question:

I think I get that: selvege is an indicator of quality, but not conclusive. (small loom, greater cost, presumption that the manufacturer wants to make something better).

I don't get why one selvege denim can cost so much more than another. Is the difference (double) ring spun vs. blown, the cotton, the dying process, etc. or all of the above? I know there are plenty of other variables (the stitching, hardware, and general attention to detail) that add value, I'm just asking about the fabric.

.

A good quesiton, and thanks for posting this in the correct place.

It's a deep question, too. Essentially, denim is a fabric of almost endless variables; as a designer you could spend months investigating a particular look, as this is what people are paying for, as much as raw materials themselves.

Every element of the process will have a noticeable effect on the final result. Do a site google here for cotton, and you'll get the idea. THere's short staple, mid, and long staple. Long staple, gossypium hirsutum, sometimes termed Pima, is thought of as best - softer and stronger - but certain manufacturers search out unique short staple cottons, too. LVC lsourcedextra short staple to get a fuzzy look for their 333 jeans, a repro of a 1910s budget jean which used lots of recycled fibre in the yarn. Many manufacturers use Zimbabwe cotton, a mid or short staple qhich has unique qualities, just because of how it's grown, whether its brown cotton, one crop or two crop, then there's mother cotton, which some people think is better qualit.

Move on from the cotton, and there are huge variables from how that cotton is spun, to how it's dyed (doeznes of threads on this alone), how it's woven. Then when you look at sewing the jeans themselves.. check out the Rising Sun thread, and look at Pacioli's posts on the kind of sewing machines the makers have searched out, to get a unique stitch length. Or look out the Warehouse thread, there's a recent post by Snake which gives great insight into some of the philosophy behind what stitching they use. And note, at this point we haven't even covered the shape of the jeans themselves, which is the part of the process that most people would notice first!

That's one short para on cotton, mentioning just a few of the issues, but really one could easily write 5,000 words on each of those processes. And we haven't even mentioned finishing or washing. IF a manufacturer develops unique, specially commissioned processes in every section quotes above, that could take years of development; that will have an associated cost, apart rom the raw materials.

It's this endless variaiton that makes denim so intriguing. But don't come away from SuFu thinking you have to buy expensive jeans with all those esoteric processes. A $100 or $200 pair from Roy, LVC, Sugar Cane, Uniqlo or Lee Europe, once you've made it your own for a year or so, will be unique, and can look every bit as good as a high end pair.

Scuse spelling mistakes, written in a rush, now back to my day job ...

[geeti]

thank you PaulT for the interesting writing.

I have a question here about soaking a jeans. I did look at the other threads about it and it seems that soaking will remove factory starch.

My question is, does wearing jeans straight without pre-soaking have any effects on its durability? I read somewhere that factory starch may make jeans weaker. Please correct me if I'm wrong. By the way, in this case the jeans is sanforized, so pre-soaking is not necessary.

thanks

[Paul T]

I don't believe it has any substantial effect on durability. My Lee, which I never soak, have had fewer thread breaks than my LVC, which I do.

Generally, only soak Sanforized denim if you prefer the softer feel.

[lefty]

thank you PaulT for the interesting writing.

+1. I'm trying, and you're helping. Thanks.

[LpotRs]

Hi all

Newbie posting, and digging the forum

I have a deadstock Levi denim western shirt, with an orange big E tag, orange nylon single stitching, copper press studs and a fitted body, that has no internal tags, other than a white washing instructions tag in one of the back seams, that gives them in English, German and French. At the collar is a white tag with a red batwing device with levis in lower case, with a circled R below, size as LARGE, 100% COTTON and "PRESHRUNK"...

Big ask obviously, but does anyone recognise it as a possible 60's wonderfind, or a later LVC?

If there is a thread devoted to these, a link would be appreciated

PS Will try to work out how to upload pics

[jwsach]

include pics and probably post here:

http://www.superfuture.com/supertalk/showthread.php?t=14314

[fallen angels]

i know superdenim is all about raw denim and sweet fades.... but is there a good thread here about washed or pre-distressed jeans?

[Paul T]

i know superdenim is all about raw denim and sweet fades.... but is there a good thread here about washed or pre-distressed jeans?

I can only find this one, with loads of whingeing on it, which is a shame. Making good washes is an art, would be good if people appreciated it.

http://www.superfuture.com/supertalk/showthread.php?t=22337&page=8

[geeti]

thx for the info again Paul T. I prefer the rigid feel, so definitely I won't soak it until its first wash.

By the way, you guys here wearing raw denim, is indigo transfer into your white shoes something to live with?

I thought wearing white shoes only once in a while won't easily get indigo transfer, but it did =(. I guess I'll never wear them again until the next 7 months or so...

[Paul T]

Hi all

Newbie posting, and digging the forum

I have a deadstock Levi denim western shirt, with an orange big E tag, orange nylon single stitching, copper press studs and a fitted body, that has no internal tags, other than a white washing instructions tag in one of the back seams, that gives them in English, German and French. At the collar is a white tag with a red batwing device with levis in lower case, with a circled R below, size as LARGE, 100% COTTON and "PRESHRUNK"...

Big ask obviously, but does anyone recognise it as a possible 60's wonderfind, or a later LVC?

If there is a thread devoted to these, a link would be appreciated

PS Will try to work out how to upload pics

Going by the batwing tag etc, it's most likely a late 60s original.. my only doubt is I don't remember seeing German and French washing instructions on these. They're nice items but not necessarily worth big money... sometimes you can even pick up the 50s Western shirts for good prices.

Do post pics on the LVC thread so we can say for definite. Just open an account at photobucket.com or imageshack.com (it's free), upload your pics, and then copy in the tags that had start with 'img' in square brackets.

[rob1031]

As we all know, there is the problem of SMELL with not washing jeans.

I know that quite a lot of people use Febreeze to get the smell out, and works great. But I was wondering whether it would have any bad chemicals that could damage the jeans? Since we are so careful about chemicals in the cleaning liquid that we use the jeans, I thought its also important that the stuff we spray on the jeans is also good for the material.

More importantly, I've found that febreeze has made one for pet odours, and is antibacterial (kills 99.9% bacteria...etc). I think this is a really good idea if we're not washing our jeans, but would it damage our jeans?

I'm annoyed because my friends from japan told me that they have like 5+ different types of antibacterial febreeze, not just the pet one, even when febreeze is a british brand!

[jwsach]

erybody. just wear your jeans and shutup. wash when theyre dirrty theyre just jeans

[noobedloser]

how should i size for the pbj xx-009?

BiG gives me the measurements of the raw only not OW but they dont say how much the raw will shrink

[ichiban-]

I might be purchasing some grey black scvle waxed denim and I wanted to know the prolonged effects of waxed denim. I wouldn't be wearing these as often as my regular jeans. Probably just to switch it up, look nice, or for the rain cuz they don't bleed. I'm just wondering what happens after a prolonged use.

[bernielike]

Anyone have some suggestions for the best stores to visit in London? I'm headed over there before a stop to the World Cup and want to be sure to hit the "spots."

[Paul T]

Anyone have some suggestions for the best stores to visit in London? I'm headed over there before a stop to the World Cup and want to be sure to hit the "spots."

http://www.superfuture.com/supertalk/showthread.php?t=59502&page=4

[LpotRs]

I have a solid brass Snap On tools belt buckle with a painted relief design, that has some green tarnish on it's face, which I'd like to get rid of. I've tried using Brasso polish (UK) that cleans it up for a while, but the tarnish always comes back. Any ideas for a permanent solution?

Many thanks

[Daniell619]

are the BLACK a.p.c petit standards selvage? the black newstandards arent and both the blue petit and new standards are slevage.

[almostnice]

I have a solid brass Snap On tools belt buckle with a painted relief design, that has some green tarnish on it's face, which I'd like to get rid of. I've tried using Brasso polish (UK) that cleans it up for a while, but the tarnish always comes back. Any ideas for a permanent solution?

Many thanks

you can use a special varnish for brass and copper,you should be able to get it at most hardware/DIY shops.

I personally wouldnt use it,IMO that buckle will benefit from everyday wear and tear.

[Guest I LOVE LFC]

Anyone have some suggestions for the best stores to visit in London? I'm headed over there before a stop to the World Cup and want to be sure to hit the "spots."

Get to the Garbstore up Kensington road and the Dover Street Market shop is well worth a look, A.P.C is over the road from that if that's your thing? Try to get to Isslington as well around Brick lane and that.

[lance]

I'll try once more. How does rep work? I'll rep someone, get the "thanks for... message and then find that their rep number does not increase yet when I try again, the message says can't rep again. Also, when I receive rep, my number increases at a different rate depending on who reps me. Tried FAQ and this one, but no joy. help appreciated - either explanation or where I can find info. thanks

[Paul T]

I'll try once more. How does rep work? I'll rep someone, get the "thanks for... message and then find that their rep number does not increase yet when I try again, the message says can't rep again. Also, when I receive rep, my number increases at a different rate depending on who reps me. Tried FAQ and this one, but no joy. help appreciated - either explanation or where I can find info. thanks

Hardly worth worrying about but... you have a 'rep power'; how much you add to someones rep is defined by that. You're probably increaing their rep by half a point so it doens't show up. A rep from soeone with a rep power of 100 will, as far as I can tell, increase your rep by 1.

[lance]

Thanks for the reply Paul; not worried, just wondering. must spread. Ha, and that's another thing I don't get!

[LpotRs]

you can use a special varnish for brass and copper,you should be able to get it at most hardware/DIY shops.

I personally wouldnt use it,IMO that buckle will benefit from everyday wear and tear.

Thanks for the response. I did a Google search and came up with a site that had some ideas, and ended up using vinegar and an old toothbrush which seems to have cleaned it up, but will have to wait a while to see if it comes back. As you suggested, it might benefit from being worn, so I will dig out some matching duds...

[dawei69]

ok, here is the situation....

I want something that will satisify my hunger for more and more denim...

I need something that will hit the spot and blow everything that i've already got out of the wardrobe...

i.e. what should I be looking at if i want the super uber premium end of the raw denim spectrum?

However, I'm not into that "limited edition" , or "handwoven" labour... and none of that japanese "traditional natural indigo dyeing"...... because to me, that's just all hype... ( it was cheap in the old days, why should we pay excess now?)

I'm thinking Evisu no.1 2000s might do the trick..

please give me some suggestions!

I am hoping Evisu 2000 No.1s will do the trick

[DoitsuJin]

the no.1s are a fantastic jean in itself but buying a pair of them is not going to miraculously end your robocopping ways

[dawei69]

and what if you were wrong and it ends the denim buying streak?