SUPERDENIM SMALL QUESTIONS THREAD (Use instead of making new threads)

[Alec Leamas]

Yes - it's all part of the song and dance of this whole thing! 

I would say for the most part that the manufacturers measurements (e.g. the warehouse ones here for 1001XX's: https://www.ware-house.co.jp/?pid=132358411) are usually the most reliable, you could cross check that (and account for shrinkage given those are raw) with Full Count's chart for 1101's here: https://fullcount.co/collections/core-denim-pants/products/1101-straight-denim-13-7oz

I believe they both measure the same way, at the same points on the garment etc.

I am certain though that someone will have contradictory information on manufacturers / brands having the best measurements through first hand experience, again, part of the whole ritual of this hobby!

[AlientoyWorkmachine]

When in doubt just email shop for photos of measurements with measuring tape. Then you know the method of measuring, and you know how you read the measuring tape (a shop’s 39 cm waist may, in a photo, be something you’d consider 40 cm, for instance). It’s not perfect but it’s about as close as you can get without trying on. Also, sometimes places make typos. 

[reallypeacedoff]

On 7/19/2024 at 4:09 PM, gmn said:

I've yet to find an online store that sells both the FC 1101 (new w/o arcs) and Warehouse 1001xx standard model to compare size charts—does anyone own both and could comment on the fit? It seems like the FC 1101 will be a bit roomier/wider at the same tagged size?

I have the Fullcount 1101W 13.75oz in 36/36: 35w, 11.75fr, 17br, 13t, 9.75k, 9lo, 34i 

& Warehouse 1001XX 13.5oz in 36/32: 35w, 11.75fr, 16.50br, 13.25t, 9.50k, 8.875lo, 32i

I'm 36", so I was expecting some stretch, and they are only ~13oz, so they are not too rigid. The above measurements are mine BTW.

[gmn]

9 hours ago, reallypeacedoff said:

I have the Fullcount 1101W 13.75oz in 36/36: 35w, 11.75fr, 17br, 13t, 9.75k, 9lo, 34i 

& Warehouse 1001XX 13.5oz in 36/32: 35w, 11.75fr, 16.50br, 13.25t, 9.50k, 8.875lo, 32i

I'm 36", so I was expecting some stretch, and they are only ~13oz, so they are not too rigid. The above measurements are mine BTW.

Thank you for these! Interesting that the thigh is a touch smaller on the FC. I was expecting the opposite. 

[gmn]

Follow up with a comparison now that I have both. Measurements at every point down the leg are about 0.25” larger on the Fullcount 1101xx, but the top block is cut differently enough (slightly smaller front rise, larger back rise, good bit wider hip measurement) which makes them fit a good bit looser. Exactly what I was after. 

[Alec Leamas]

Does anyone have an idea of how accurate the stock info is on Junky Style?

[indigoeagle]

37 minutes ago, Alec Leamas said:

Does anyone have an idea of how accurate the stock info is on Junky Style?

In my experience very accurate.

[Alec Leamas]

Brilliant thank you! 👍

[Alec Leamas]

Missed the line on their site that states pretty clearly "no international orders sorry" - do they sell on any other platform or is it a proxy job for us louts?

[Hopethisoneisnttaken]

2 hours ago, Alec Leamas said:

Missed the line on their site that states pretty clearly "no international orders sorry" - do they sell on any other platform or is it a proxy job for us louts?

I purchased multiple times from junky via fromjapan and buyye

[Alec Leamas]

Thank you @Hopethisoneisnttaken that's great to know!

[gmn]

Maybe this is all in my head, but I've got a pair of size 32 Fullcount 1101, and a pair of 33 Resolute 714. They have almost identical measurements down the leg (we're talking probably 0.125" difference at any given spot), but the Fullcounts have a solid bit more back rise.

What is making the fit around my thigh feel so different? Is it the way the pattern is cut? Can that make a difference? Is it in fact the back rise that makes everything feel looser and more comfortable on the Fullcount? 

I'm trying to get a better sense of what qualities of a cut give the jeans the fit I like and make them comfortable. 

Some pics for reference—both pairs are worn with the crotch at the same height: 

Fullcount 1101 fit

Resolute 714 fit

Extra fabric I can pinch around mid thigh on the Fullcount

Extra fabric I can pinch around mid thigh on the Resolute

[julian-wolf]

^ The way the pattern is cut makes all the difference. This is why some brands’ jeans (like Sugar Cane or Warehouse) seem to fit almost everyone pretty well and some brands’ jeans (like ONI or N&F) manage to fit almost no one: patterning and grading are really not straightforward. It’s not possible to tell how jeans (a 3D object) will fit—or how two pairs of jeans will compare to each other—based on a few 1D measurements any more than it’s possible to look at a few measurements and use that to produce a functioning pattern for a pair of jeans.

That said, if you’re just looking at how the legs fit, you’re at a pretty big advantage here since both pairs are cut with straight outseams to accommodate the edges of the denim. If they hit your crotch at the same point (which, admittedly, is a pretty big if), you should be able to tell everything about how they’ll fit your legs by separately measuring the widths of the front and back panels at a few places. My bet would be that one pair has an inseam that sits appreciably farther forward than the other’s, towards the crotch—and that they’re probably cut with fairly different curves through the crotch and seat.

 

[gmn]

19 minutes ago, julian-wolf said:

^ My bet would be that one pair has an inseam that sits appreciably farther forward than the other’s, towards the crotch—and that they’re probably cut with fairly different curves through the crotch and seat.

Thanks for this explanation!

This has got to be it—the front rise on the Fullcount is actually ~0.25" shorter than the Resolutes, but the  back rise is 1.75" larger than the Resolutes. This makes the front thigh section of the leg on my Fullcounts 1.5" smaller across than an identical measurement on my Resolutes, even though the "thigh measurement" is almost exactly the same.

Not totally sure I am wrapping my head around why where the seams in the leg are makes such a difference in the fit, but I buy your explanation that this is the cause.

Edited August 8 by gmn
Messed up the quote formatting

[julian-wolf]

28 minutes ago, gmn said:

Not totally sure I am wrapping my head around why where the seams in the leg are makes such a difference in the fit, but I buy your explanation that this is the cause.

Once you get towards the lower legs, it doesn’t make a difference how the fabric is distributed between the panels as long as the outseam is cut straight, but up top it can be an okay proxy for the overall shape of the crotch

[JDelage]

Who makes the best Lee Storm Rider inspired jacket these days?

[julian-wolf]

McCoy’s would be my go-to, if the short boxy cut works

[indigoeagle]

The TCB looks good.
The SDA one is nice, but on the slim side.

[Alec Leamas]

+1 for the TCB version, not deep-dived on the measurements but in principle it looks fantastic

[JDelage]

Other quicky for you. Loop & Weft looks like they have Western sizing, is that correct? I generally get L in Japanese tees, but the measurements for L&W tees suggest I should get M ... unless I'm missing something (shrinkage maybe?)

Edited August 22 by JDelage

[OutSider]

Hemming Unsanforized one wash, how much extra should I add to account for any future shrinkage? Same question for raw pair.

[Talan]

It depends on the label/denim and the inseam length.

[Alec Leamas]

As mentioned above it depends on the brand, fabric and remaining inseam length.

A worked example from me would be I bought Warehouse Duck Digger 1001XX 1947, they come one washed, I had them hemmed to 28 1/2", they have over the course of a year lost another 1". That was with Warehouse's banner denim, I've found that most unsanforised denim will do similar things.

Any more clues on brand or fabric might help with some more specific advice!

[OutSider]

2 hours ago, Alec Leamas said:

As mentioned above it depends on the brand, fabric and remaining inseam length.

A worked example from me would be I bought Warehouse Duck Digger 1001XX 1947, they come one washed, I had them hemmed to 28 1/2", they have over the course of a year lost another 1". That was with Warehouse's banner denim, I've found that most unsanforised denim will do similar things.

Any more clues on brand or fabric might help with some more specific advice!

Would be the Studio D'Artisan Sp-084 or Hinode's

Samurai S510XX20OZGA, the 20th anniversary ones with the "Buddha" symbols and

Samurai S5000XX-2ND-20TH, collab pair with 2nd.

I'm hoping I'll be safe to leave a cm or two extra and get away with it.  

This is my first time with Japanese denim so I'm a bit out of my depth 

 

[Talan]

5 hours ago, OutSider said:

Would be the Studio D'Artisan Sp-084 or Hinode's

Samurai S510XX20OZGA, the 20th anniversary ones with the "Buddha" symbols and

Samurai S5000XX-2ND-20TH, collab pair with 2nd.

I'm hoping I'll be safe to leave a cm or two extra and get away with it.  

This is my first time with Japanese denim so I'm a bit out of my depth 

 

From my experience with Samurai and SDA, I can say that after the first wash, they practically don’t shrink in length during subsequent washes. You can leave an extra 1 cm for peace of mind. For raw denim, you can assume they’ll shrink by 4-5 cm, but it’s better to check online stores that sell these models, where you can find information about shrinkage.

[OutSider]

Thanks. I figured I should be ok. I'll leave about an inch extra. Can always do a small cuff if I have to. 

I figure I may have a bot more shrinkage in the 2nd collab pair as they didn't shrink as much as the others.

 

[Cold Summer]

I'm looking to add a few thermal tees for fall/winter layering. They should be long sleeve, all cotton, medium weight, have decently long sleeves for my long arms, and not absurdly expensive. I tried on an Iron Heart thermal at my local retailer at the start of the year and liked it a lot, but it was maybe a bit bulkier than I wanted, and I balked at the price tag. 

It doesn't need to be by a premium/made-in-Japan brand even, but I would like something all cotton with no synthetic fibers, which likely rules out cheaper options like Uniqlo.

[AlientoyWorkmachine]

Jackman makes great knits. Also, given how long the sleeves are on my Ues jacket, I would look at their thermals also. Both are priced pretty similarly, and not at IH levels. 

[nick682]

25 minutes ago, Cold Summer said:

I'm looking to add a few thermal tees for fall/winter layering. They should be long sleeve, all cotton, medium weight, have decently long sleeves for my long arms, and not absurdly expensive. I tried on an Iron Heart thermal at my local retailer at the start of the year and liked it a lot, but it was maybe a bit bulkier than I wanted, and I balked at the price tag. 

It doesn't need to be by a premium/made-in-Japan brand even, but I would like something all cotton with no synthetic fibers, which likely rules out cheaper options like Uniqlo.

UES has a few different thermal options

[Hopethisoneisnttaken]

All of the above options and I would also recommend deluxware. 
 

edit: since I moved the discussion over to a new page the context was about thermal shirts for @Cold Summer

Edited August 27 by Hopethisoneisnttaken