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Levi's Vintage Clothing

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Nice comparison, vIGGiou riou, I really like the heavier selvage on top.

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to tell the truth, me too...

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those 76's are exactly like mine.

87ce771331015593.jpg 

I've seen those pictures of raw cones standing up after being soaked/shrank and they can stand up on their own. my cone 76's were almost like that. I took them off and they were still in the moulded shape of me. impressive. and they shrank a LOT.

these new ones are nowhere near as cardboardy. they are ok I suppose.. Time will tell how well they age and develop, that's the real test. 

 

how do you find them compared to the cones?

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compering to cones I have to say it's not difference in quality. just denim is different, even in Japan they did really good work - they have experience from nineties, when they produced first run of LVC. but is possible to recognise. difference is very subtle, but I feel that denim would fade faster, than cones. craftsmentship from Bulgarian is not worse, than from USA. just little diferencies ... I bought them as summer jeans due to the weight of denim. for that reason I decided for shorter inseam to fit them with sneakers ....

Edited by vIGGiou riou

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check out the leg twist on these 76's. I actually like it, makes them even more 70s.

5f4b201331084559.jpg 

5907e71331084687.jpg 

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nice non LVC Levi's shirt I found on ebay. 

and here is me illustrating the crazy differences between the same shirt sizes. That 60s shirt was a little tight, was definitely more like an XS than an S. so I got a M from somewhere else (luckily also reduced price) and it was the exact same size as another Levi's t shirt I have which is a S.

7890ed1331084604.jpg 

the small 60s shirt on top.

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the M on the bottom with the other S shirt placed over it.

3124a91331084679.jpg 

Edited by andyrcii

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The twist seems to be the wrong way on those 76s, it should be going to the left, not the right (first picture). I can see it’s not a mirror image photo so something seems to be wrong or it’s just the way you’ve laid them out.

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I just laid them out naturally, here is the back.

wish it wasn't winter so I could get some decent light. 

2ed0a91331090176.jpg 

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I was also very surprised ... right hand twill always (or should be always) creates leg twist on left leg. NOT on right. have anybody explanation of that  phenomenon ???

when I see pictures of japanese LVC repro from nineties leg twist is on left leg...

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my twist....

IMG_1094.jpg

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acfaf61331097383.jpg d2c3c01331097390.jpg 8f42f21331097398.jpg 

god I love these jeans with converse. they were made for them. I am working on getting some desert boots though. If only I could decide between my 70s versions and the red ones. as for the jeans, very happy with the cut and fit.

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Yeah, that's so weird that the legs are twisting the opposite way... Never seen a pair look like that

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IIRC, in the late 70s, Cone changed the fabric to be pre-skewed, to eliminate leg twist. (I don't know how well it works, as when I used to go thru stacks of 501 in the 80s, you'd see lots and lots of leg twist). One guess therefore might be that Kaihara have over done the pre-skewing? Although my recollection , without checking, is it started in 79.

That's only a guess, as I don't really understand how pre-skewing works, and even people experts like Ralph Tharpe aren't too sure why some jeans show more leg twist than others.

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Thanks Paul, but how would that explain why they twist the wrong way? Surely it would either stop them twisting or reduce the twist in the expected direction for right hand twill?

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This sort of processing isn’t quite that smart. It doesn’t reduce the overall amount of tension in the yarns; it just tries to compensate for what’s there by adding more tension in the opposite direction. The fabric doesn’t really have any way of knowing what its original, un-skewed state is. As far as it’s concerned, skewing less in the right direction and skewing a bit in the wrong direction are different extents of the same thing.

You’ll often see this happening with jeans made from heavily-sanforized denim, too: the pre-processing overcompensates for the initial tension in the yarns and, come wash time, they get torqued in the opposite direction.

Edited by julian-wolf

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Thanks Julian, so are you saying that water is the catalyst for the anti-skewing process to kick in and (depending on the strength of that pre-processing), it will operate on a sliding scale from resisting the usual skew somewhat to possibly even skewing in the other direction? I assume the right amount will result in no skewing either way?

How does this work in practice, what is involved in the pre-processing?

Also, I’m glad I have the US Cone 76s (which I don’t think suffer from this anti-skew) rather than the new Bulgarian-Japanese hybrid version!

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Thanks Julian for explanation. except color, seems to me japanese denim (probably Kaihara) very very close to Cones. I compared both fabrics before initial wash of Bulgariens and structure of both denims and differences were almost unrecognisable. I saw b_Fs fit pic of 1976 (Cone) on page 699 and I can't register any twist. on left and even right right leg. If producer of denim is Kaihara, which has experience from Japanese run of LVC, where is an error ? Maybe that's the intention... 

Edited by vIGGiou riou

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On 12/1/2019 at 5:35 AM, propellerbeanie said:

Oh yeah, here's pics of my '76s. Haven't worn them in a long time, mostly because I need to fix the inseam around the hem as well as reinforce some of the fabric around the seat. I kinda hate the phone and wallet fade that developed, which is why I no longer sit with my phone in my pocket (to avoid the sharp corners rubbing too much) and use a "normal" bifold wallet sans concho.

20191123_162941.thumb.jpg.b8fd3c05ae944032ff252caac12881c0.jpg

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20191123_162958.thumb.jpg.ebd91aee9072ad01ac72e4a03aebfb46.jpg

 

These Cone 1976s seem to have a bit of leg twist in the correct direction.

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yeah. right... left leg twist...

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3 hours ago, Maynard Friedman said:

so are you saying that water is the catalyst for the anti-skewing process to kick in and (depending on the strength of that pre-processing), it will operate on a sliding scale from resisting the usual skew somewhat to possibly even skewing in the other direction? I assume the right amount will result in no skewing either way?

More or less, yeah. Washing seems to get rid of any tension that’s built up in a fabric. Weaving spun yarns into a twill tensions the yarns, as do skewing and sanforization. Washing releases the tension (is there’s any net tension left) and causes leg twist.

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I was planning to break out (and then break in) a pair of 55s (from 2007) this summer but all this recent talk has made me consider giving my 76s a spin instead.

55 or 76 in the UK heat(!) - what do you reckon?

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 I would go with '55s as summer jeans. The '76s are much more tight hipped.

32 minutes ago, Maynard Friedman said:

I was planning to break out (and then break in) a pair of 55s (from 2007) this summer but all this recent talk has made me consider giving my 76s a spin instead.

55 or 76 in the UK heat(!) - what do you reckon?

 

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4 hours ago, Maynard Friedman said:

I was planning to break out (and then break in) a pair of 55s (from 2007) this summer but all this recent talk has made me consider giving my 76s a spin instead.

55 or 76 in the UK heat(!) - what do you reckon?

Go with your '55s! The '76 fabric is more tightly woven and seals in all the juices lol

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Just out of curiosity: If you dry clean raw unsanforized denim, does it shrink in the dry cleaning chemicals? I would think so, as the garments are still getting wet (just not with water).

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6 hours ago, 428CJ said:

Just out of curiosity: If you dry clean raw unsanforized denim, does it shrink in the dry cleaning chemicals? I would think so, as the garments are still getting wet (just not with water).

Generally no. I have done this with jeans to keep them dark and orginal size. There might be some shrinkage and even fading but it's negligible. Might vary with modern , less toxic chemicals but I suspect it will still be minimal.

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since i am a a big fan of the ´76 and the price came up reasonble i had to get another pair.

cone denim to the left, japanese to the right. i like both denim so far

 

IMG_5946.thumb.jpg.6aa3c850ef8d470e44a557b1c47a0fe8.jpg

 

 

IMG_5945.thumb.jpg.9c88a9cedee1cb4a92f657f414c650c9.jpg

Edited by Sympathy-For-The-Denim

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hmmm... I'm not alone in that ....

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Why are the 55 and 47 still full price? I know they are popular models but come on......

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Yes, how dare they sell their products at full retail price! Why doesn’t everything cost 5p?

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Every single other pair is in the sale, no need to be a rude a-hole about it.

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