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428CJ

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About 428CJ

  • Rank
    super

Profile Information

  • Gender
    male
  • style
    classic
  • attitude
    cantankerous
  • location:
    Los Angeles, CA, U.S.A.
  • wish i was in
    Los Angeles, CA, U.S.A.
  • denim
    size 36
  • t-shirt
    large
  • shoes
    us 10.5 uk 10 eu 44 jp 28
  1. Levi's Vintage Clothing

    They're very good quality jeans – the best bang for the buck in old Levi's IMO. But be aware than they can be *very* slim fitting in comparison to both modern style 501's and older style 501's. Be sure to get thigh and hip/butt measurements from your seller! Today's size 35 STFs give me plenty of leg room; my early '90's pair of the same size, I can baaaaaaarely get into (as in I really shouldn't be wearing them...but I do it from time to time anyhow). As for value, I wouldn't consider them to be collectible in a "vintage" way. They're just becoming more and more desirable in dead stock condition in a utilitarian sense. They are the last of the era of very well made Levi's that will actually last 30 years if you want them to, and you don't have to pay collector prices for red line edging with these. They're certainly worth twice what a new pair of outsourced 501's sells for today, based solely on materials quality and build quality, which adds up to a longer life for the jeans. Personally, I might pay $100–$125 for a pair (if I needed one), as opposed to paying $88 plus tax for a pair of modern M.I.U.S.A. Levi's...but beyond that price, I'd just get the new M.I.U.S.A. Cone 501's for $88. Those are actually pretty well made for the money, in comparison to outsourced 501's that are not even $30 cheaper, list. Note that I am talking about dead stock jeans above. These are almost worthless if already washed and worn. You can really get a huge bang for the buck by purchasing lightly worn pairs from this era of Levi's. Also, be aware that 505's from the same era are even cheaper, and just as good (arguably "better," due to having a zipper).
  2. Levi's Vintage Clothing

    Nice looking '44's. I can't wait till mine are broken in.
  3. Thank you for the recommendation. I have seen all sorts of pearloid snaps out there, but it's very hard, usually impossible, to determine whether they are just the usual crap, or something well made. Any experience with good and bad western pearloid snaps from certain sources? Thank you.
  4. It is not absurd. Half the clothes on the racks at many dry cleaners are blue collar uniforms. Some dry cleaners are only in business where they are because of all the commercial clientele and blue collar uniforms that need to be serviced (e.g. around military bases). Do you think cops and firefighters wash and iron their own clothes all the time? Not a chance. Military (as I was for most of my youth)? Postmen? Electrical workers? Dry cleaning is not ubiquitous, and I do not claim that it is, but it certainly is not uncommon among the blue-collar work force. Anyone who thinks that every blue collar worker in the world has the time or energy to properly maintain his/her own uniforms has obviously never lived a real blue-collar life. And FWIW, The two shirts in question are semi-formal western shirts that are white, which I don't want to shrink at all, and which had oil stains. There's nothing wrong with dry cleaning them; there is something wrong with the quality of work performed by the dry cleaner. But again, beside the point. This is the hardware thread. I am looking for hardware recommendations.
  5. It definitely isn't serious. It's garbage that needed to be taken out. When you say you wouldn't dry clean a western shirt, you obviously don't see how little sense that statement makes. That's stating that you decide whether to dry clean or not based on the general style of the garment. It means that you wouldn't dry clean a western shirt based on its level of formality (Western shirts encompass the entire range of formality), on the materials out of which is made (again, this runs the spectrum), on whether you wanted to minimize shrinkage, on whether there was a grease stain, or on the complexity of the ironing involved (do I really want to spend the time to do this at home?). Instead, you'd dry clean it or not pretty much based on whether or not the yoke and cuffs look "western." Not a good sole determining factor as to whether you want to dry clean or not. And again, dry cleaning or not is irrelevant. I'm looking for hardware recommendations in the hardware thread.
  6. There is much to say in order to completely demolish this post...but bottom line: 1) Your statements and implications are all blatantly wrong. Western shirts OBVIOUSLY aren't all workwear by definition, and even if they were, there is NOTHING whatsoever odd about dry cleaning workwear. 2) Your post is irrelevant. 3) Your post seems to be one of attempted criticism and/or insult only. So, either direct me to some quality snaps, please, or flake the hell off. Preaching false blue collar aesthetic to someone your senior who has blue collared most of the members of this forum under the table isn't gonna fly.
  7. I'm really peeved with a certain dry cleaner at the moment. Just got back two western snap shirts, and the pearloid snap inserts on both of them are marred. On the flannel shirt, the weave of the dry cleaners' cover cloth has been nicely pressed into each and every plastic snap button. On the other one (cotton/linen blend), the buttons are dulled down, though not actually "melted" with the cover cloth pattern. This is on top of the fact that their pressing job left tons of wrinkles on the placket and pockets, and they didn't get the stains out of either shirt. I took them to the cleaners because 1) I didn't want any shrinkage whatsoever, especially on the flannel, and 2) The cotton/linen shirt has a stain that I thought they'd easily be able to handle. So, they have the shirts back now, and they are "going to call me." I know they are gonna shirk responsibility and give me the runaround. I am wondering if you all can help me with two things: 1) a recommendation for a truly excellent dry cleaner in the northeast L.A. or west S.G.V. area, and 2) a recommendation for truly high quality replacement snaps. All I can seem to find out there looks like cheap garbage to me; it's hard to tell what is quality and what is not, online. Thank you.
  8. Sugar Cane Denim

    Thank you very much for that information/offer. Very good to know!
  9. Sugar Cane Denim

    There are three things I would absolutely love to see from Sugar Cane: 1) Raw black 1953 Type II jacket, SHORT 2) Black Type III jeans, RAW 3) Raw 1947's, BLACK I have the jacket and the Type III's. I love them. This black material is one of the best looking denims I've ever seen. But I would prefer the jacket short (like my blue version) and the Type III jeans raw (like the jacket), and the classic 501 cut done in that wonderful denim. Did I miss these items being available somewhere? Thanks.
  10. WAYWT (denim version) 2017

    LVC '66 old dead stock 126MJ EU Lee 101 rider flannel below EU Lee 101 belt
  11. Sugar Cane Denim

    Yes, I meant unshrunk, not unsanforized – just an imperfect use of terminology, not confusion. Thanks for the tip.
  12. Sugar Cane Denim

    Does anyone have a good source for unsanforized 1947's? They are not stocked at my go-to retailer for Sugar Cane stuff (Self Edge). Thanks.
  13. WAYWT (denim version) 2017

    LVC 1880 TPB, XL, dry (first time wearing it) LVC 1966 501's, 36/34, dry EU Lee 101 sawtooth flannel EU Lee 101 belt Same jungle boots I usually wear
  14. WAYWT (denim version) 2017

    Thanks. It took quite a devotion to laziness. Actually, It's just about to hit its three year anniversary.
  15. WAYWT (denim version) 2017

    ...and just put these over – ha! (I'm doing some early morning painting of the studio walls before our shoot.)