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Glad I grabbed two pairs of the 1880s on a major sale. I believe I was able to get them for $180 a pair, or maybe $210 (marked down from $600 standard retail price). I got a pair of 36s and a pair of 34s. The 34s are probably too tight, and I'll sell them some day. The 36s, I hope to start working on in the next couple of years.

Cultizm had a great sale (25 percent off storewide) coupled with already reduced pricing and free shipping, so I just grabbed a few more pieces. They arrived today. 101Zs in Lot 59 denim, size 34/34. This is a beautiful fast fading double black denim with blue selvedge ticker, which I have on a pair of Riders and my Storm Jacket. It's nice to see it on the 101Z cut (a slim straight low-mid-waisted cut). I favor the 101Z cut over the Rider cut by a mile. The Rider is a slightly lower waisted tapered cut, with a bizarre thigh-to-waist ratio: too big in the waist for the size of the thighs. I need to get them taken in a few inches at the waist in order to fit me right. The 101Zs: https://www.cultizm.com/us/detail/index/sArticle/16770 Also grabbed the Lee EU (non-101) Cowboy Jacket in single wash jelt denim, size XL. Very nice piece. Wish it was raw, but oh well. It's still really nice. https://www.cultizm.com/us/detail/index/sArticle/18482 $190 including delivery from Germany to California for both items. Took four days to get here! Very good pricing and amazingly fast delivery. There have to be more people here who wear Lee EU stuff. Please share!

Re-posted from the Workshirts thread. Here are some progress pix of my dark blue Lee 101 EU Sawtooth. I started wearing it as it came, with no initial wash. After almost three years of ownership and 212 days of wear, I washed it for the first time. I have included the pre-wash photos again so you don't have to scroll up and down to compare. The before and after shots can be directly compared, because the variables between the photographs were very well controlled. I left my entire studio setup exactly the same since I photographed the shirt pre-wash, and I applied exactly the same Lightroom edits to all of the photos. I didn't photograph this shirt when it was new, but I do have an unworn one. It's a slightly different edition, with chest embroidery and a "Japanese Fabric" tag inside, but the fabric and cut are the same. I photographed that as well, so you can see what the fabric on the broken in one looked like when it was new. What is what should be obvious. Brand new are dark, pre-wash are worn and filthy, and post-wash are worn and clean. As far as washing procedure, I gave the shirt what I would call an "aggressive hand wash" using Woolite Dark in cold water. I soaked in a plastic storage bin in the bath with cold water and the Woolite for an hour or two, giving the shirt a general agitation a couple times during. Then I aggressively agitated it for about 10 to 15 minutes, both generally and on specific areas. I dumped that water out, and it was so saturated with dye and filth that it was a DARK opaque blue. I then gave it another Woolite soak and wash sequence, but with a shorter soak time and shorter agitation time. I dumped that water out (very blue, but translucent and bright this time), and quickly rinsed with the detachable shower head. Then I gave the shirt about 30 minutes of soaking with intermittent general and specific agitation, with about two cups of vinegar in the water. Dumped that, and it was a lot closer to clear. Then a soak and agitation in plain water. Dumped that, and it was nearly clear. Then a rinse with a detachable shower head, before hanging to dry indoors. I'm just going to put in a word for Woolite Dark here. It cuts grime EXTREMELY well, but it isn't harsh on the dye. It seems to really pop the naturally faded areas, while leaving your background dye field alone. Supposedly it somewhat smooths frayed yarns as well. Though I don't know how that works, I have to say that it does have a different effect on frayed yarns and threadbare areas than any other detergent I've tried. And I like the scent. Not the detergent to use if you like classic fades, but it's great stuff if you want high contrast.

I will start with some progress pix of this pair of Riders in 16 Oz. Lot No. 16 denim. The denim is really nice. White weft, blue warp. The warp yarns were dyed black first, and then blue, resulting in an extremely deep blue when new. The patch is hair-on-hide (not belt-through style), and the stitching is orange. I was already well into fading these before I thought to take good pix, so I didn't get a starting pic. However, I do have another cut (Cinch Taper) that uses the same denim. I've only worn them two days, so they can give you a good idea of what the denim was like when new. I should mention that I pilfered two belt loops from the Cinch Tapers, and added them to these Riders. They are both originally 5-loop jeans. I just finished 85 days of raw wear on the Riders, then gave them a hand tub wash in Woolite Dark. I followed with a wash/rinse using clean water with about two cups of vinegar added. This washes them more, and cuts the soap. Then, a plain water rinse. I photographed them in identical lighting. First set is as new. Second set is 85 days in, pre wash. Third set is 85 days in, post wash. I like the way they look so far. My plan is to do about six washes a year the first year, and then a wash per month from then out.

I searched using the search function, and went back manually many pages. I was surprised to see that there is no thread dedicated to EU Lee – particularly the 101 line that most people here would probably be interested in. These clothes seem pretty popular to me, and I own a bunch, so I thought I'd start a thread.

So, actual proof that he DOES still deliver things? Strange that the jacket took three years, but you've been waiting four for your jeans. I'm at about 2.5 years on a pair of jeans. I have contacted him once. He's perhaps about due for another prod. I specifically asked him how long up front. He said he's terrible at estimating, but it could take UP TO a year. I said OK, I won't bother you about it. But I did follow up at the one year mark, just to make sure he had bought the right denim like he said he would. I would be razzing him a lot more, but I did say that I wouldn't bother him. If I say something, I stick to it...though as I said, I think 2.5 x the longest estimated wait time is worthy of another prod.

I might be. Feel free to drop me a PM with the price.

The gray one is gray, and the blue one is blue. Mine is the gray one.

P.S. I forgot to mention that this is the gray single pocket one with the buttons that only go half way down the front. I hope that's the model you were asking about.

My XL Rigid Sunset Shirt, purchased Jan., 2018: Chest (armpit to armpit): 26.0" Shoulder to shoulder: 20.5" Top of button placket to split in shirt tails: 20.5" Width at split in shirt tails: 26.0" Front length (top of button placket to bottom hem): 29.5" Back length (bottom of collar stitch to bottom hem): 34.0" Sleeve length, shoulder to cuff: 23.5" Sleeve length, pit to cuff: 21.5" Sleeve width, top (pit to shoulder): 11" Sleeve length, halfway (1.75"): 8.0" Cuff width: 6.0"

I like most of the LVC cuts, with my least favorite being the '70s models, and the '54. When I was collecting all the LVCs I wanted before the loss of Cone fabric, I did get the '76s, but I passed on the '54s; that taper was just too much for me. I'd say my favorite is the '55. This sort of cut is what I think of when I think, "classic Levi's 501.

Very glad to have got the two items I did, when I did. Who knows if they'll ever be made again. I got the black canvas pleated jacket, and the blue denim one with wool lining.

Hello, I am using a single needle. The results are different than normal, because the “chains” are tighter, and lean “backwards” along the line that has already been stitched.

I'm doing it almost like the first pic. I come through the loop on the way through, like pictured. But I don't go back through the loop a second time before re-entering the same hole. Instead, I pass through the loop once, then tighten (but not super tight) the loop by pulling the thread back along the stitch line that I already completed. Then I pass the needle back through the same hole, and leave enough slack to make a loop. Then I make a straight stitch on the other side, and the whole thing starts over. I'm not sure what it's called or how I came up with it. Probably by doing something wrong at some point, and continuing to do it the wrong way. But it seems to work, and like it might actually be pretty sturdy. I thought about doing it with two threads using the same stitch that a machine does. But it seemed like it would be too cumbersome to manage and maintain reasonably consistent tension to the stitches.

Stitching a chain stitch by hand for the outseam of this pair EU Lee 101 19 oz. 101Zs. I don’t have a sewing machine that can do a chain stitch, and I want it to match the factory stitching – not exactly, but at least somewhat. It’s my first time trying this. I don’t have it perfect, but the line is not drifting too much.