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428CJ

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Everything posted by 428CJ

  1. 428CJ

    Levi's Vintage Clothing

    If true, that's unfortunate. I always buy the longest length available at the time of purchase. I like to have extra material for patches. With those jeans, the dry cleaner might become your closest friend. Just be sure they are dropped off for actual dry cleaning, and not washing. Dry cleaners usually offer both services.
  2. 428CJ

    W. H. Ranch Dungarees

    Did they just show up one day? Or did he contact you first to finalize the details, find out if you had moved, etc.?
  3. 428CJ

    Rising Sun & Co

    Freenote's pockets (which I can actually tolerate, unlike most pockets on "hip" brands) are very similar to those.
  4. 428CJ

    Levi's Vintage Clothing

    Still holding out for the LVC reissue of the very first 501s after standard U.S. production ceased. Oooh! Such well researched and perfectly reproduced outsourced crapiness!
  5. 428CJ

    Ladies high end repro vintage denim

    I am tellin' ya, man, explore the 1890s. They are practically a woman's cut already. Try to find a Levi's store that carries LVC. Try them on, in a variety of sizes, including downsized. These jeans are cinch backs! No belt required. Cinch 'em up! Have them tailored if you need to. That was the true origin of the first "women's" jeans: men's jeans that got tailored by private parties.
  6. 428CJ

    Naked & Famous Denim

    Anyone got a pair of Strong Guys yet? One of their newest cuts, and I haven't heard peep about it. They haven't sewn it very often since introducing it. I got my first pair today. It's a silly cut, but I like it. It is extremely straight legged. The leg opening is huge – deliberately comical, obviously. I used to be in the navy, and I swear they based the cut on the 13 button pants from our dress blues ("crackerjacks"). The denim is awesome. Natural indigo, mid-toned, light weight. Rise isn't quite as high as I'd like, but I am looking forward to seeing how these break in. Interesting that they are called the Strong Guy, when the cut is actually something I would expect to see a woman wearing. Glad to see N&F finally do something with a fair amount of rise and leg opening. And again, this denim is awesome.
  7. 428CJ

    Ladies high end repro vintage denim

    I don't know if the very early Levi's women's cuts have been reproduced. But most of the LVC cinch back cuts are cuts that would, today, be thought of as a certain type of women's cut more than as men's cuts. High waist, generous hips, roomy fit. Add some taper if you want. I would look at the 1890s first, as they have the most stereotypically "womanly" cut. High, drawn in waist, wide hips, fairly dramatic taper for the style.
  8. 428CJ

    Levi's Vintage Clothing

    I feel very lucky to have got a rigid one and a pre-washed one, both in XL. The pre-washed one is for dyeing, and I'm hoping the rigid one fits OK being washed cold throughout its life.
  9. 428CJ

    Denim Repair

    Might dig in to them this coming weekend, at which time I'll snap some pix. On of the jackets is messed up, but not horribly. The other one is nearly ruined, but it's such a nice piece that it's worth a stab at saving.
  10. 428CJ

    Denim Repair

    Have some jackets on my table to repair, that some tailor really screwed up. Very sad. This guy did a real hatchet job on these jackets, and supposedly he's a denim specialist. Yikes. Real hack work on a beautiful $300 jacket, and on a less expensive, but still nice, jacket as well. I'll see what I can do to save them, but it ain't pretty, especially the work on the expensive jacket.
  11. 428CJ

    Rising Sun & Co

    I like the cut of those Blacksmiths. Not a fan of the slightly fancy and gaudy pockets, cinch, decorative stitching, etc. Too much for my aesthetic taste. The same thing with a plainer look would be really nice. Would look less like I was dressing up in a costume and more like I was just wearing a pair of jeans.
  12. 428CJ

    Levi's Vintage Clothing

    Yup. The '55 is my favorite LVC cut that I've tried. Really like the '44 as well. '55s have a "stocky" look, and '44s have a "long-n-lean" look. I am right in between the two, so they both work well on me.
  13. 428CJ

    Levi's Vintage Clothing

    ^ Jeezus. That is a stunningly low amount of fading for four months of wear. Do you work a desk job, or are they just veeeeeery slow faders?
  14. 428CJ

    Vintage Lee Riders

    ^ Got these. Looks like they're actually early '80s. I couldn't tell from the care tag based on photos. Anyone know how to decode a year of manufacture based on label codes? What about the number on the United Garment Workers of America label? The style and color are 200-0147 Code under that: 0511211445CON205 (this code is the key to determining the year, I think) On the care tag: CA 00492 and RN 34783 (these seem to be consistent across a wide variety of Lee items – probably codes for the care instructions) On the union label: 4917083 (I think)
  15. 428CJ

    Vintage Lee Riders

    Incoming; just purchased online. A slightly high-water pair of Lees, which I estimate to be early-mid '70s. Still union made, but have a care tag and the MR. The general wear appears fairly light – maybe only worn 100-200 days or so. One small hole, which is easy to fix. I normally wear a 30–32 inch inseam, so these are a big short at 29". But I liked the rest of the jeans so much that I will deal with that. I'll just wear shoes that look good with it.
  16. 428CJ

    Lee 101 european "premium" series, opinions?

    Sorry I somehow missed this thread when I started my EU Lee 101 thread a few weeks ago. I scrolled back many pages, and did a title search for the word "Lee" before starting it, but this didn't turn up. Maybe the mods could condense the two threads. I have MANY pairs of EU Lee 101 jeans, in both the Rider cut and the 101Z cut, plus another oddball one-off cut or two (e.g. Cinch Tapers). IME, the back patch on these requires restitching by hand, especially at the ends. Every single one has come undone within a week of first donning the jeans. They don't tie off the threads, and they don't stitch enough past the end of the patch. On a few pairs, I've redone the entirety of the patch stitching by hand. On others, I just repair the ends as needed. They are not reproductions in the slightest. They are modern cuts, through and through. They came up with their own patch design, which is a fine patch IMO.
  17. 428CJ

    Leepro Appreciation

    @rodeo bill Cool. I have a pair too. I have a question. Did they shrink from their new size? If so, was it a lot? My first wash will be relatively soon, and I'm very curious what to expect. If they shrink quite a lot, then I will wash in hot water to get the shrink (they could use it).
  18. 428CJ

    Levi's Vintage Clothing

    Glad I grabbed two pairs of the 1880s on a major sale. I believe I was able to get them for $180 a pair, or maybe $210 (marked down from $600 standard retail price). I got a pair of 36s and a pair of 34s. The 34s are probably too tight, and I'll sell them some day. The 36s, I hope to start working on in the next couple of years.
  19. 428CJ

    EU Lee 101

    Cultizm had a great sale (25 percent off storewide) coupled with already reduced pricing and free shipping, so I just grabbed a few more pieces. They arrived today. 101Zs in Lot 59 denim, size 34/34. This is a beautiful fast fading double black denim with blue selvedge ticker, which I have on a pair of Riders and my Storm Jacket. It's nice to see it on the 101Z cut (a slim straight low-mid-waisted cut). I favor the 101Z cut over the Rider cut by a mile. The Rider is a slightly lower waisted tapered cut, with a bizarre thigh-to-waist ratio: too big in the waist for the size of the thighs. I need to get them taken in a few inches at the waist in order to fit me right. The 101Zs: https://www.cultizm.com/us/detail/index/sArticle/16770 Also grabbed the Lee EU (non-101) Cowboy Jacket in single wash jelt denim, size XL. Very nice piece. Wish it was raw, but oh well. It's still really nice. https://www.cultizm.com/us/detail/index/sArticle/18482 $190 including delivery from Germany to California for both items. Took four days to get here! Very good pricing and amazingly fast delivery. There have to be more people here who wear Lee EU stuff. Please share!
  20. 428CJ

    EU Lee 101

    I searched using the search function, and went back manually many pages. I was surprised to see that there is no thread dedicated to EU Lee – particularly the 101 line that most people here would probably be interested in. These clothes seem pretty popular to me, and I own a bunch, so I thought I'd start a thread.
  21. 428CJ

    EU Lee 101

    Re-posted from the Workshirts thread. Here are some progress pix of my dark blue Lee 101 EU Sawtooth. I started wearing it as it came, with no initial wash. After almost three years of ownership and 212 days of wear, I washed it for the first time. I have included the pre-wash photos again so you don't have to scroll up and down to compare. The before and after shots can be directly compared, because the variables between the photographs were very well controlled. I left my entire studio setup exactly the same since I photographed the shirt pre-wash, and I applied exactly the same Lightroom edits to all of the photos. I didn't photograph this shirt when it was new, but I do have an unworn one. It's a slightly different edition, with chest embroidery and a "Japanese Fabric" tag inside, but the fabric and cut are the same. I photographed that as well, so you can see what the fabric on the broken in one looked like when it was new. What is what should be obvious. Brand new are dark, pre-wash are worn and filthy, and post-wash are worn and clean. As far as washing procedure, I gave the shirt what I would call an "aggressive hand wash" using Woolite Dark in cold water. I soaked in a plastic storage bin in the bath with cold water and the Woolite for an hour or two, giving the shirt a general agitation a couple times during. Then I aggressively agitated it for about 10 to 15 minutes, both generally and on specific areas. I dumped that water out, and it was so saturated with dye and filth that it was a DARK opaque blue. I then gave it another Woolite soak and wash sequence, but with a shorter soak time and shorter agitation time. I dumped that water out (very blue, but translucent and bright this time), and quickly rinsed with the detachable shower head. Then I gave the shirt about 30 minutes of soaking with intermittent general and specific agitation, with about two cups of vinegar in the water. Dumped that, and it was a lot closer to clear. Then a soak and agitation in plain water. Dumped that, and it was nearly clear. Then a rinse with a detachable shower head, before hanging to dry indoors. I'm just going to put in a word for Woolite Dark here. It cuts grime EXTREMELY well, but it isn't harsh on the dye. It seems to really pop the naturally faded areas, while leaving your background dye field alone. Supposedly it somewhat smooths frayed yarns as well. Though I don't know how that works, I have to say that it does have a different effect on frayed yarns and threadbare areas than any other detergent I've tried. And I like the scent. Not the detergent to use if you like classic fades, but it's great stuff if you want high contrast.
  22. 428CJ

    EU Lee 101

    I will start with some progress pix of this pair of Riders in 16 Oz. Lot No. 16 denim. The denim is really nice. White weft, blue warp. The warp yarns were dyed black first, and then blue, resulting in an extremely deep blue when new. The patch is hair-on-hide (not belt-through style), and the stitching is orange. I was already well into fading these before I thought to take good pix, so I didn't get a starting pic. However, I do have another cut (Cinch Taper) that uses the same denim. I've only worn them two days, so they can give you a good idea of what the denim was like when new. I should mention that I pilfered two belt loops from the Cinch Tapers, and added them to these Riders. They are both originally 5-loop jeans. I just finished 85 days of raw wear on the Riders, then gave them a hand tub wash in Woolite Dark. I followed with a wash/rinse using clean water with about two cups of vinegar added. This washes them more, and cuts the soap. Then, a plain water rinse. I photographed them in identical lighting. First set is as new. Second set is 85 days in, pre wash. Third set is 85 days in, post wash. I like the way they look so far. My plan is to do about six washes a year the first year, and then a wash per month from then out.
  23. 428CJ

    W. H. Ranch Dungarees

    So, actual proof that he DOES still deliver things? Strange that the jacket took three years, but you've been waiting four for your jeans. I'm at about 2.5 years on a pair of jeans. I have contacted him once. He's perhaps about due for another prod. I specifically asked him how long up front. He said he's terrible at estimating, but it could take UP TO a year. I said OK, I won't bother you about it. But I did follow up at the one year mark, just to make sure he had bought the right denim like he said he would. I would be razzing him a lot more, but I did say that I wouldn't bother him. If I say something, I stick to it...though as I said, I think 2.5 x the longest estimated wait time is worthy of another prod.
  24. 428CJ

    Leepro Appreciation

    I might be. Feel free to drop me a PM with the price.
  • Nike Green Gyakusou Logo Running T-Shirt
    $US 55

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