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Levi's Vintage Clothing


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On 9/3/2019 at 9:50 PM, Dry said:

So far, loving the new Japanese denim put together in Bulgaria. We'll see how it pans out. After a 8 pair buying spree in the last few weeks, I've got 2 pairs of 1937s and 2 pairs of 1966s on the go (1 pair each normal fit and 1 pair each tight fit) and in the 1966s 1 pair of Cone 1966s tight and 1 pair Japanese normal fit, with duplicates for each still with tags in reserve. None have yet been washed. I'll probably have to avoid washing the tight fits for a while. Can anybody report on the Japanese denim's shrinkage?  

 

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A few folks here have seen my denim three-pleat. This is the Cone synthetic 1880s fabric, which is lovely. Gnarly but not overdone. Although I like, for instance, the TCB fabric which looks great from afar, it is very high contrast and super-slubby close up. The Cone in comparison is far blue-er, and subtle.

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Now of course, thanks to Spiraltoy I have its companion, the same jacket in cotton duck.

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It's similar in construction to the denim version - but not the same. For a start, even though they're the same size, the pockets on the duck version are deeper.

It has some selvage detailing - although not as much as the duck pullover. It's a different fabric. I thought this wasn't Cone, but apparently it is, according to me anyway(!) Again, I thought this might be Turkish-made, but my 2013 story says it was sewn in LA

Here's a story on the development of the first duck replica fabric.

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Here is is alongside the duck pullover.

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Edited by Paul T
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These are the remains of a pair of little e selvedge bootcut Levis bought in July 1972 later converted into shorts and then used to reinforce the pulling fly button of a pair of Fullcount 1904 shorts. There is no number on the back of the top button. On the jerky patch only the number 0 remains visible and the care instructions inside are illegible. They were shrunk in a hot bath and the colour bled like crazy - sulphur dye? I never liked the colour.

 

 

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Edited by Dry
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On 10/4/2019 at 10:35 AM, Paul T said:

those 50s ones are nice but there's no real connection with a 66 pair. The pocket shape become more square partly because they didn't have to accommodate the rivet.

This is my old pair of circa '66 502. These were very beautiful with all lemon stitching. There are probably some differences from a contemporary 501, the bar tack is quite distinctive on this pair.

But this is what to me is a quintessential 66 shape: lovely parallel stitching on the sides, and less of a splay than the 55. But still some splay. The arcuate is shallower obviously, than typical 50s jeans, but there are plenty shallower still .

Yet... I just looked at all the Japanese LVC reissues from around 2000 with lots of '60s replicas including the 502. Japanese LVC tended to have more different models (they would have Japaese repros alongside the US ones). There was nothing even vaguely similar to this, in terms of shape or arcuate  - essentially because they based their repros on different originals, and there was so much variation in the 60s especially from factory to factory and probably operator to operator.


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This is the pocket shape of my 1969 pair - note how far apart the seams are at the sides and along the bottom and the thick  'sewed with the finest thread'.

https://pin.it/boholjop47tayx

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3 hours ago, Maynard Friedman said:

(Pre-LVC) Capital E range I’d think.

Absolutely. They had some generic features (did they have a crotch rivet?) but the fabric in particular was great. I dropped into Valencia Street over that period, around Dec 1994, and got into a little argy-bargy as I was wearing the Euro selvage 101J. Those do look great.

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I was living in SF for around nine months, they only did the tours for an occasional walk-thru, there were no denim nerds whatsoever, just bored retired peeps I think. They had big stashes of Big E tags in tupperware boxes, not that many people sewing, and the foreman wasn't that informative  - nor did I know that much then, about Cone or anyone, possibly I even asked him whether they'd sold the looms to Japan!  Of course I really regret that back then I didn't have a decent camera that would work in low light so I took no photos.

Shame it matters so much... as in places like Valencia and Cone aren't around any more.

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I managed to grab a made in USA (with Cone denim) LVC triple pleat in my size. This jacket has been on my "to buy" list for many years and I figured I had to grab it before this version was completely gone. 

The fit is quite slim, especially when I compare it to my Conners Sewing Factory jacket. Even more than that, it is quite short. It's not uncomfortable to wear, but I've never worn such a short jacket and it feels like it's too short, but I like how it looks in the pictures. I didn't expect to like this one so much, but it's now already my favorite non-leather jacket. Makes me more sad about this fabric being no more.

I took pre-soak shots of it on its own, but I still need to take post-soak shots of the fabric, though I'm sure those already exist in this thread (those fade pics above from @Paul T look great!). I'd love to find a duck version as well.

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Edited by dudewuttheheck
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