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Loopwheeled/Vintage T-Shirts

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Whoa I've never heard the complaint that FH t-shirts are too long though I can see how if you have to size up, the proportions can get funky.

With Merz, they've become one of my favorite brands for t-shirts. They have the impression that they're some big company but in reality they're a pretty small operation that has the ability to put out a lot of different products because of how they're set up. The owners still man the trade show booths every year. I feel like they doesnt always get the credit they deserve especially when compared to Japanese brands...in house fabric and garment production for the mainline, all organic cotton, no chemical processing, and they do interesting fabrics with different yarn types/sizes, doing cotton blends with viscose, hemp, merino, etc. Even their neck tags are woven on old punch card looms. I think the sizing of their t-shirts can seem tricky but I use the same thinking as unsanforized jeans where the length shrinks the most so I make sure I have about 1"-1.5" (I usually cold wash in the machine and hang dry with the expectation that sometimes it'll end up in the dryer) and a little room in the body. The width usually stretches to comfortable if it's a little snug.  The end fit is definitely more modern compared to warehouse or flat head but even on my non germanic European lanky build, it works well.

I generally get size 6/L in merz in the 2-thread 215 t-shirts, sometimes a 5/M on some seasonal runs of t-shirts like the hemp/cotton. To give some comparison on sizing I'm a Med in warehouse 4601, size Medium in newest run of Flat Head THC (this fits on the slim side), Large in strike gold t-shirts, Medium in Human Made t-shirts, Large in SDA, Medium in 3sixteen T-shirts (I hot wash and dry these to get enough shrink), and Med generally in Iron Heart t-shirts. 

Also, always get their 2-thread t-shirts as opposed to their cheaper models. The price difference is big but the 2-thread fabrics are significantly nicer. The hand feel on the inside of the 2-thread fabric is really soft. It's almost as thick as a flat head tshirt but it has a lot more give to it. 

Edited by youngofthesoonest

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I realized I was wearing a merz tshirt and was going to do laundry so I took a quick fit picture of how they fit. First picture is the black tshirt which is a Large and the second is the gray hemp/cotton tshirt which is a Med since that one ran big. 

IMG_4014 2.jpeg

IMG_4015 2.jpeg

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I have one Merz, a 207 short sleeve Henley in organic cotton. I find it's a bit long & lean for my frame, but what really bothers me is that it has a very wide ribbing on the 1/4 sleeve. Because it's somewhat tighter than the sleeve itself (not uncomfortably so), the sleeve tends to bunch up. First world problem, I know.

My favorite non-indigo tees are my Freewheelers.

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18 minutes ago, JDelage said:

I have one Merz, a 207 short sleeve Henley in organic cotton. I find it's a bit long & lean for my frame, but what really bothers me is that it has a very wide ribbing on the 1/4 sleeve. Because it's somewhat tighter than the sleeve itself (not uncomfortably so), the sleeve tends to bunch up. First world problem, I know.

My favorite non-indigo tees are my Freewheelers.

ohh yeah that ribbing is specific to the Henleys. I have that on my stevenson Henleys too. it's a cool detail but I definitely prefer a classic sleeve even on Henleys. Merz b Henleys used to have wide neck holes but last season they said they made them a lot smaller so they're closer to their t-shirts. I haven't tried them yet but I'm glad they did that. 

Edited by youngofthesoonest

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Sunray are nice tees really soft and comfortable and sizings good too 

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I have a few Samurai Loopwheel tees that I find pretty nice, although I have to go up to XXL for a boxy fit. I noticed that their Graphic Loopwheel tees have a heavier material as compared to their regular 2 pack Loopwheel tees but both are nice nonetheless. Not sure if they sell plain white tees in that heavier weight though. So far my best fitting tee has probably been from The Real McCoy’s however I do not believe they are Loopwheel. 

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My favorite loop wheeled fabric is the one Tezomeya uses! Their cuts are weird in the "blank" tee but when they are dyed it's all good.

For fit my favorite is Lady white pack of 2 crew neck and for daily beaters I wear Bronson Mfg. 

I would also recommend Merz even if sizing over the internet is a little bit harder. They definitely makes some good tees. Nothing beats a good try-on and advices from a good B&M shop.

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ordered two graphic Warehouse 4601 tees via a proxy. I prefer my Tshirts longer for wearing on their own but gotta have some shorter tees for wearing with chambrays/denim jackets as well.

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Which graphics did you go with?

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Warehouse 4601 is my favourite t-shirts. I got a couple of them and I will definitely get some more.

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2020-07-27_10-48-48

Two new t-shirts, this time a size up for a more relaxed fit.

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The Warehouse 4601 is very nice.  I prefer it over the McCoy's because the neck hole is significantly smaller.  Both have very nice, soft material, though the McCoy's gets the nod by a hair, since it's even softer and more luxurious feeling.  Neither is especially long.  They're both long enough, but I'd prefer another inch or two.

Edited by JohnM

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@tigerstrom I’m interested in your post wash measurements for those Warehouse tees in XL if you have the time. I’ve been eyeing some, but I feel like I’m a lot bigger than you are. :D

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Here you go @Broark This is the measurements after one wash at 40°C and one hour of wearing it.

Shoulder 18"

Chest 44”

Front length 27.5”

Sleeve length 8"

I got most shrinkage in the length and sleeve length. It stretches back quite easily after wash. I wanted a looser fit with the shirts in XL. I have a couple of the same t-shirt in L and they fit nice too.

I guess this is looser than most people want to wear it.

2020-07-31_04-56-57

 

Edited by tigerstrom
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Bang on fit .... unless you gym royalty?:P

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Whoa, that's a tiny neck opening

Are all Warehouse tees similar in that regard?

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The neck opening is really small but I actually like it. My neck is also pretty thick haha. I often have a hard time to find shirts that fit good around the neck.

If I remember correctly the neck opening on my XL is 7"

Edited by tigerstrom
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Perfect imo too very nice I’ve done exactly the same size up for l to xl I’ve noticed though that some are softer and slubier than others they are not all the same depending on the colour I suppose 

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Measurements look perfect, I’ll be grabbing a couple once SE gets them. S&S sold out too fast for me to jump on them.

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2 hours ago, Broark said:

Measurements look perfect, I’ll be grabbing a couple once SE gets them. S&S sold out too fast for me to jump on them.

We're getting dark olive, white, black, and Bordeaux in 3 weeks!

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5 hours ago, julian-wolf said:

Whoa, that's a tiny neck opening

Are all Warehouse tees similar in that regard?

They’re on par with flat head neck holes but they stretch out enough to be comfy. This is how mine fit now412DB271-7973-47AC-B623-74D30348CE86.thumb.jpeg.91e7dfff2fce57098361b327b1ab615a.jpeg

Edited by youngofthesoonest

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1 hour ago, goodrain said:

Flat Head tees are SO MUCH HARDER to put on/take off

You need to develop calluses on your face and then it’s super easy

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1 hour ago, goodrain said:

Flat Head tees are SO MUCH HARDER to put on/take off

ha.. 100%, they're firmly in "gotta remove my glasses" territory for me

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This is neither vintage nor loopwheel related but very much a t-shirt question. Obviously there are lots of indigo dyed t-shirts around but does anyone have or have seen a t-shirt that has an indigo dyed warp and a natural weft, just like a pair of jeans?

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1 hour ago, Maynard Friedman said:

This is neither vintage nor loopwheel related but very much a t-shirt question. Obviously there are lots of indigo dyed t-shirts around but does anyone have or have seen a t-shirt that has an indigo dyed warp and a natural weft, just like a pair of jeans?

I know it’s a technical thing, but maybe you are not aware - knitting is fundamentally different from weaving in as much as that it is, in the basic application of t-shirt, just a single thread/yarn system.

yes, you can change the colours of yarn and/or you can introduces additional threads into the basic knit structure and modern machines having multiple heads, but for basic tee structures - weft knots or warp kits - you would only double or triple that one thread to add substance to the resulting knit fabric.

talking about about pique knits, sweatshirt knits (loopback) and a lot of the more sophisticated (and often much more 3 dimensional) knits out there - yes, those have multiple thread/yarn systems.

Edited by Foxy2

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Thanks Foxy, that (mostly!) makes sense, I think you’re probably one of the most knowledgeable people to be able to comment on this so appreciate that.

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I don't know the weave they use, but some of SDA's indigo t-shirt have an indigo face and a white inside. Not sure I should use warp & weft in this context... E.g., 

http://www.dartisan-onlineshop.com/SHOP/8001.html

 

 

8001-IND-F.jpg

Edited by JDelage

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