Tender Co. Denim

[AlientoyWorkmachine]

Man, really trying to abstain right now but some of this new stuff is quite tempting. 

[rodeo bill]

On 12/15/2021 at 6:32 PM, MJF9 said:

^ from the Stores... 'Lined jackets have a fully removable body liner cut from heavy ecru wool woven in England for tennis balls'

It'd be good to see a close up of the actual fastening William if you can

Many thanks all, @mpukas yes indeed the liner buttons in/out with riveted jeans fly buttons, onto herringbone tapes sewn into the fronts and collar of the jacket.

A few more jackets new in today! This is the last option from the current production, woad dyed with tennis ball cloth wool liner. Here are some photos showing the jacket lined and unlined, and the lining buttons:

 

[JDelage]

The black version is not the same as the special edition that was produced for a US store a couple years ago, right? It's overdyed?

[AlientoyWorkmachine]

@JDelage The old north one is the 19 oz crossweave denim, overdyed in the Indian Black. The new one is the 16 oz selvedge, overdyed in the same stuff. So diff fabrics - that's the difference far as I can tell. 

[rodeo bill]

thanks @JDelage and yes @AlientoyWorkmachine that's absolutely right! The Cross-Weave denim is a bit brighter on the face, as it's a heavier ecru yarn, where the selvage denim is darker on the face, so wears closer to black denim than the Cross-Weave version, which is greyer with more texture.

[MJF9]

[AlientoyWorkmachine]

2 garment days are worth a double post no?

Tender type 799 / Type 129 woad jeans. 

I also recently just took delivery of the 961 velvet jacket which is great - maybe the best cut yet for my build. I'll have to get some pics of it soon. 

 

[sensy]

The Danish store Maritime Antiques & (which is where I got my anniversary type 900, and my baste pocket shirt) is having a pretty decent sale on Tender items. I'm waiting on two versions of the bench pocket shirt (denim and the stripey one with two different indigo fabrics). 

[julian-wolf]

^ Thanks for the heads up

I’d spent a while going back and forth on the velvet jackets but decided they were a little too rich for me; really excited to be able to give one a go!

[sensy]

38 minutes ago, julian-wolf said:

^ Thanks for the heads up

I’d spent a while going back and forth on the velvet jackets but decided they were a little too rich for me; really excited to be able to give one a go!

Happy to help. They've been having sales randomly over the last year, but it almost seems as if I'm the one person buying from them. 

[AlientoyWorkmachine]

2 hours ago, julian-wolf said:

^ Thanks for the heads up

I’d spent a while going back and forth on the velvet jackets but decided they were a little too rich for me; really excited to be able to give one a go!

I was the same - well that and my size/preferred color was tough to track down once I finally went looking. Finally found one at Peggs + Son . I can only speak for myself but I don’t regret it - it’s a really nice piece. Pretty unique but at the same time super wearable. 

[UkeNo]

Good discount on the 461 here:

 

https://www.peggsandson.com/type-461-baste-pocket-shirt-cotton-chain-cord-indian-dyed-black

[Imbouta]

Hey Yall, 

First time poster here, long time lurker. 

Noticing all the hubbub about the type 900 oldnorth variant. I found a size 4 on ebay a while back and purchased it. Its a beautiful jacket which I have only worn a handful of times as its a bit tight on me. Given that Bill has now put out some indian black I purchased one in my size and am now looking to sell the old north variant to make room.  It has never been washed and is in great condition. PM me with an offer if you are interested. See attached photos. <3

 

 

[sensy]

I got my two bench shirt a couple of days ago, and here are some words about them in my sort of shitty english.

When I first tried them on, I didn't really like the fit but I figured I got them for a steal so I might as well keep them for a bit. It made me feel like I was wearing 90s X-Files Skinner's shirt. I've been wearing the cross weave one while working for home for a couple of days, and just by doing that it's relaxed quite a bit and it no longer feels bulky.

The cotton(linen indigo fabric is really cool, but I'm gonna wait until it's a bit warmer outside before I put some wear on it. Looking at the fabric and on @rodeo bill's worn floor shirt makes me very excited.

[AlientoyWorkmachine]

I know these won't be for everyone but I love the concept. If they came in my size I'd be pretty tempted. On figure it would really be a subtle difference I think, most people wouldn't even notice. Stuff like this is what makes following the small denim designers fun for me. 

 

[JDelage]

It's a cool idea but a bit too subtle on already dyed jeans IMHO.

[rodeo bill]

Thanks for linking @AlientoyWorkmachine! I was going to put something up here soon, as well. I'm really glad you like the idea- it's something I've been mulling over or a while. Woad is a much softer dye so the contrast wouldn't have been as marked, but the opportunity arose to work with the guy who taught me indigo dyeing in the first place, in Kojima, and I thought this would be a really nice way to do it. Achilles' Heel is a slightly wider project, and some more products to come which show the fabric difference more overtly, but in the meantime @JDelage you're right the difference is quite subtle onto denim, but if you think of it as basically being a hand-dyed Japanese indigo special ed pair of Tender jeans, with a secret nice story just for you then I hope it's still of interest. There is a very nice textural difference to the indigo, too- here's an (unadjusted) photo the side of some Achilles' Hell X Tender Co. 132s:

[julian-wolf]

On 1/7/2022 at 11:09 AM, julian-wolf said:

I’d spent a while going back and forth on the velvet jackets but decided they were a little too rich for me; really excited to be able to give one a go!

This thing is seriously cool, 100% into it

[lyraman]

For the Achilles heel jeans William, is the denim your usual dyed with puré indigo and then over dyed with natural indigo?

[rodeo bill]

1 hour ago, lyraman said:

For the Achilles heel jeans William, is the denim your usual dyed with puré indigo and then over dyed with natural indigo?

Many thanks for this. Yes the base jeans are made from the normal 16oz 25-dip indigo selvage denim, then the garment is hand dyed with more indigo. The hand-dye isn't natural indigo, it's the same indigo as used in the yarn dyeing of denim, so it's a particularly deep, slightly red cast, blue. The overall jeans tone is even deeper than the standard woad dyed denim jeans. I hope this helps!

[lyraman]

Yes, thanks 

[AlientoyWorkmachine]

10 hours ago, julian-wolf said:

This thing is seriously cool, 100% into it

Same - I'm a big fan. Let's see it! 

I saw a woad dyed one off and kicking myself for not getting that, the shade of blue on the velvet was beautiful. 

[julian-wolf]

Yeah, saw that too—the Indian black was the one I’d really had my eye on, but I’m more than happy with the red ochre

Peak luxury, really

[AlientoyWorkmachine]

I was super torn btwn the red and the indian black since I'd missed out on the woad (which I think was a 3, my size for the jackets) - I only went with the indian black because I'm lacking in the lighter shade tops - the color of the red ochre looks great too though. It's pretty rare I want the same garment in multiple colors but this one did that to me - alas I can only give one enough wear to respect it anyways. I think I officially have more pieces from Tender than any other maker at this point. I ordered before the year turned so telling myself I'm still on track to behave myself in 2022... 

[merzbot]

Three year old 132X's

 

[rodeo bill]

I've been working on a new jacket! Previous denim jackets have been more along the lines of chore coats or workwear jackets, this one is an attempt at a jeans jacket (if that's a meaningful distinction):

The backs are cut straight (with a selvage back seam) but the pleated fronts are cut sideways. This means that the back shrinks up relatively more than the fronts, giving the jacket a very slightly raised back, which feels a bit like a motorcycle jacket. Here are some flat images:

The shoulders are folded over from the backs to the yoke, giving a nice smooth shoulder:

I've just started wearing one of these myself, I'll try to do it proud and post more images as it comes along.

[AlientoyWorkmachine]

Looks super nice William. The type 1/type 2 lack of side pockets always put me off a bit, even though i like the classic styling of them (I know they're heresy to some people) - just from a purely practical perspective I always use those things. The cut looks good too. I like how you managed a pleat in your own way with the pockets. Do you think you'll ever issue these in your garment dyed varieties or sticking to the classic denim for now? 

[rodeo bill]

9 hours ago, AlientoyWorkmachine said:

Looks super nice William. The type 1/type 2 lack of side pockets always put me off a bit, even though i like the classic styling of them (I know they're heresy to some people) - just from a purely practical perspective I always use those things. The cut looks good too. I like how you managed a pleat in your own way with the pockets. Do you think you'll ever issue these in your garment dyed varieties or sticking to the classic denim for now? 

Thank you so much! I agree re practicality and heresy of type I/II jackets.

I’ve just made a small run of these for now and I’m not planning to do any dyed versions from this run. Perhaps at some point, but for now it’s only these rinsed jackets. I think this style works really well in a classic rinsed denim, though- I’m sure you’ll like it!

[StuartM]

If I hadn't just bought an Aboubakar Fofana indigo shirt, I'd have been all over this jacket. Looks so much more practical than a type 1/2, as mentioned above. 

[sensy]

How long (short?) is the jacket? Size 3 for me probably.