Ooe-Yofukuten & Co.

[oomslokop]

they say it wasn't only the hardware that got "truncated" on one's jeans during the war, but also the dyeing of the denim. there were restrictions, too, in the production of the denim fabric is what they were saying. but they didn't reveal the deets. they practically claimed this new "dull" denim was produced using the same restrictions to replicate the nature of og ww2 denim (comparable in principle to using fewer rivets to put together ww2 repro jeans). i read this in one of their ig posts, but can't remember if it was originally written in english or google translated. 

[Broark]

As @oomslokop mentions above I think this post goes into the same detail regarding the denim used on this pair.
I read this as they had another batch of XX4 denim made, and upon receipt / inspection they realized the indigo dye with this particular batch looked more similar to war era denim.

[AlientoyWorkmachine]

Haha that post really shows off their skill at marketing. Turning "We got this bolt of denim that wasn't what we ordered and that we actually found disappointing" into "unique war era denim perfect just right for this one model."

Don't get me wrong, the pair I have hanging in my closet is impeccably made and one I look forward to wearing. 

[Broark]

Not sure I read that post as “this fabric is defective and we’re disappointed in it, let’s market it as war era since it fits”, rather, there’s enough of a variation in the run that they felt the need to call it out. 

To my untrained eye I can’t really make out a difference between the two. Definitely some marketing involved here (hell, what isn’t marketed in this hobby anymore?), but I don’t think they would knowingly peddle a lesser quality product.

[AlientoyWorkmachine]

I agree they don’t imply it’s defective - I didn’t use that term - and I have no reason to think it is. But it sounds like it’s not the dye job they wanted. It may be something even more preferable to some, it’s just that it wasn’t what they wanted. 

[shredwin_206]

OOE are masters of hype and marketing. Their stuff has always looked cool but the scramble and limited release shit is a huge no for me. I hate that stuff with a passion. 
similar to how ROY did things toward the end. 
Not to say I wouldn’t buy a pair second hand and beat the piss out of em tho like @scooby  

Edited July 26, 2023 by shredwin_206

[AlientoyWorkmachine]

I don't love it but I've got some sympathy for the whole thing in general. It's essentially a prerequisite for any independent creative studio of any sort really, especially super small ones with tiny to non existent distribution networks. This is one of those where I hate the game more than the player - so to speak. It's even stranger in a way when it's a product that harkens back to pre internet times taking a very contemporary sales approach. My personal career is now a good bit different than it was because I just couldn't really get behind using social media to promote my work (still mostly can't). I'm lucky that I still find other ways that mostly stem from personal relationships built over time, but every day I feel like an anachronism whose days are numbered before my work life undergoes a radical shift.

That said, I do wonder if they're at the point where they have enough retail support - not my call to make. Can't argue with how nice the jeans are - and I do think they're reasonable when purchased from JP. 

[aho]

Grain of salt as I'll always continue to beat the drum for Ooe*

I don't believe there is hype, outside of the US retailing circle/community. I've always been able to buy a pair whenever a new one was released either through Ooe direct (which unfortunately isn't an option now, as they don't have enough time to take care of shipping, etc. outside of making the jeans), or through their various stockists in Japan (Barnstormer, etc.). The latter often have sizes sitting for months after the initial drop, and are easy to contact via e-mail, or buying through Buyee (proxy) direct. 

At the end of the day, Ooe Yofukuten is two people, Ryo and Hiro. One does the patterning and cutting, the other does the sewing. The demand has increased to the point that they now have to work with stockists instead of a custom direct order system (man the early 2010's were the days...), but any perceived limitations aren't due to manufactured scarcity and hype building, but the reality of being two people making product by hand at a truly artisanal level. I can't name another jeans manufacturer doing what they do, as small as they are, in 2023 for the cost of ~$254 USD (when bought from Japan). Certainly, we've seen CSF grow, hire additional staff, and charge double, for example. 

In my book, Ooe would be worth it at double the price. But luckily, you can buy them for much less, and not have any issues getting a pair if you so desire. And to top it all off, Ryo and Hiro are some of the best/nicest people in general, who deserve the support. What's not to love?

[blooming]

Placed my pre-order for the SOA03XXD-0823 in size 32. First Ooe pair, first WW2 pair. I was getting so ready to grab the Full Count 0105 WW2 or the TCB S40s, but I don't wanna miss out on another batch of Ooe going to S&S.

Edited July 26, 2023 by blooming

[Ciabatta]

I miss being younger (skinnier) and fitting into my old pair of Ooe's which have since been sold.

[vlad_III]

12 hours ago, blooming said:

Placed my pre-order for the SOA03XXD-0823 in size 32. First Ooe pair, first WW2 pair. I was getting so ready to grab the Full Count 0105 WW2 or the TCB S40s, but I don't wanna miss out on another batch of Ooe going to S&S.

Where are 0105 ww2 available?

[beautiful_FrEaK]

46 minutes ago, vlad_III said:

Where are 0105 ww2 available?

Sold out in lots of places but here are still some pairs:

https://search.rakuten.co.jp/search/mall/full+count+s0105xx/

https://item.rakuten.co.jp/americaya/s0105xx/

https://item.rakuten.co.jp/gpanya/10008191/?variantId=62027

[blooming]

10 hours ago, vlad_III said:

Where are 0105 ww2 available?

Urahara has some available in a few sizes, someone who works there just posted about 'em on Reddit! 

[blooming]

Pre-order/product page was taken down from S&S. I wonder if they sold out that quickly, or if they are going to relist them later?

[Signet]

we still have some pairs of those left a full size run i think  s105ww2

[julian-wolf]

Went ahead and preordered a pair—always wanted to try Ooe and always told myself that I’d wait ‘til they brought the 03 cut back, so…

[scooby]

@aho well said

I think for those who haven't seen the product, they might view the way it's talked about as hype. People who have worn them speak so highly of them

They might make the most perfectly sewn jeans I have ever seen. And in my personal experience they're some of the toughest

Looking forward to seeing how those look @julian-wolf

[AlientoyWorkmachine]

Day 1 in the 01s. Gave a hot soak and vigorous hand wash yesterday. Took a chance on the size 31 some months ago since the deal was good and everything but the waist looked to shrink up okay per measurements. 

Definitely the smallest 31s I’ve worn and definitely a little snug up top but I think these will stretch out okay…and maybe I’ll tack on some time to my running and rowing days….and if I’m in denial I’ll know in a few days. 

Haven’t spent a day in true raw jeans in a long time, almost forgot how it feels. 

*Edit to a day later and I have to say, I think these are my favorite pair (at least at the beginning of the journey) that I've had yet. They've stretched out perfectly - they don't even feel snug now, they just feel like they fit - and at least for me, the cut is about as good as I've ever found. Honestly didn't expect to like them as much as I do, but the little things help - they're cleaner wearing and looking than the '20's I've had on most of the summer, and the pocket bags are just a bit deeper and tougher feeling, etc. I think I'm gonna put everything else aside and focus on these for now, which wasn't really my initial plan. 

Edited August 2, 2023 by AlientoyWorkmachine

[AlientoyWorkmachine]

I'm so pleased with the 01's (early days) that I pre-ordered the 03's not too long ago for supposed delivery in Nov ? 

(Yes, even after I called out their IG post on the fabric).

I've never used a proxy for a pre-order (Buyee thru Barnstormer) - anyone have any issues doing this? Just feels weird pre paying and waiting months with a proxy. 

[blooming]

I was debating that option, but just ended up going through S&S to avoid 5-6 months of anxiety over it.

[AlientoyWorkmachine]

I didn't see anything thru S+S, but if I'm buying something I can't return anyways I'll usually try to get it from Japan. I'd love to visit them in person to try things on but their return policy (or lack thereof) sends me straight overseas for online stuff. 

[tooth]

@AlientoyWorkmachine Barnstormer is great; I’ve proxied from them in the past using buyee and service has been very good with fast shipping to the US.

I also preordered the 03’s so hoping my previous experiences with Barnstormer / Buyee hold true this time around.

[julian-wolf]

Yeah, I’ll always default to supporting a local brick & mortar if doing so offers the opportunity to shop around and try stuff on, but paying the extra surcharge seems silly for a preorder 

[blooming]

16 hours ago, AlientoyWorkmachine said:

I didn't see anything thru S+S, but if I'm buying something I can't return anyways I'll usually try to get it from Japan. I'd love to visit them in person to try things on but their return policy (or lack thereof) sends me straight overseas for online stuff. 

They had the pre-order page up for a few days and took it down. They also claim to offer a size-exchange on Ooe pre-orders if they don't fit, which makes me feel better.

[scooby]

 

 

[MJF9]

^ what's happening Scoobs??

[blooming]

The production updates posts on their IG are promising for the first batch coming this fall.

[julian-wolf]

Anyone know which retailers are getting which batches?

[blooming]

Someone asked in a reply to one of their posts, but no answer yet. I wouldn't mind waiting a bit, personally, so I can get some more wear on my current daily pair, because I know I'll prob swap to these as soon as I have them in hand.

[nick682]

What's the difference in the Ooe cuts? I only have experience with the 01